The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[lhsoulrebel]

In this article they use some NGK spark plugs, part number BCPR7ET with a 3-ground electrode instead of the single-ground Denso IK22s that URD recommends. Anybody have experience with these NGK plugs? Might help fix the short life span the single-ground plugs have with the wasted spark ignition?

Link to the plugs - [NGK-BCPR7ET] - $8.00 : NGK Spark Plugs Store

I don't know if anyone who's mentioned using them... Makes sense thought.
So no one has a coupler they can recommend? Sc oil amount and brand?

 

[SCRunner12]

I don't know if anyone who's mentioned using them... Makes sense thought.
So no one has a coupler they can recommend? Sc oil amount and brand?

I have some of the NGK plugs sitting in my office now and going to try them out soon.

rollingperformance.com has the couplers and oil. I'd just order from them. You need one bottle of the oil for the change.

 

[angus]

I bought BKR7EKC-N

OEM Porsche plugs that are the same design as the OEM 5VZ twin ground electrode and have the exact same specs except heat range 7.

NGK part# 2095.

Truck now start like new and runs smooth.

I do believe the single ground electrode is wrong for the 5VZ for two reasons:

1) The waste spark ignition will shorten the life (the ground electrode on the denso is not iridium or platinum)

2) The single ground could shroud the spark, unlike the stock design which has the spark directly exposed at the end - this may alter the combustion process and result in undesirable results...

 

[TBuzz]

Well the fatalistic theory would be that it sounds like maybe long term lean running and detonation (ping) has caused a had gasket failure?

Of course that IS the worst case scenario.

Do you have a wideband gauge in the truck?YES

Does it use or lose and coolant other than the leak at the T-stat housing?Just peak crust as evidence of a tiny leak

First I would check that:

- You have proper flow through the rad ( I know it new but debris cold still clog it) you can use your step gun to shot the rad all over and see if it has even heat.89 degrees all over it when at temp

- Your thermostat is opening when it should

- Your fan is locking up when it should to cool

- If you suspect a head gasket, you can pressurize the cylinders one at a time and see if it goes into the cooling system.

- You can use a proper funnel that attaches to the rad to bleed any air out.

If it is only getting hot when you push it, then I would probably look at the rad flow and fan first.

Also - if your coolant level is even a little down (like a 1/2 cup of water) it'll cause the condition you describe.

Don't drive it too much like that as you will almost certainly cause some damage eventually, air around the heads etc.

I've been looking into a replacement bolt for a while and have some leads, but nothing solid. It's ridiculous you can't buy just the bolts of brackets. I'll let you know if I come up with anything.

In regards to the lean, do you think your stock fuel pump is causing it? I always thought you needed a larger fuel pump to offset the extra fuel especially with the 2.2.

I know exactly which bolt you are talking about... it took me like and hour and a half to get out myself! I was able to get it out though without any crazy methods though, I guess I got lucky.

The dealer should warranty their work, unless it's been too long and past the warranty. Usually it's a mileage warranty though, you should look into it. If you kept the receipt it should have the mileage when the repair was done.



:rant: WHATS THE POINT OF THE SUPERCHARGER IF YOU DON'T DRIVE IT OVER 3600 RPMS

/rant Ok I'm done I hope you can get the dealer to step up and get it fixed! The shop I go to have a "get it done no matter what" attitude that I loved about them. Then even kept my truck overnight once to heat cycle over and over again to get a stuck spark plug out (not my fault, previous owner).

I am sort of starting over diagnosing but moving it to another thread as my situation may no have so much to do with the supercharger discussion...I did end up with this today and I got full timing belt/WP service while they were at it.

Thanks for your input

 

[afg10000]

Gauge opinions

Hey, folks - Been researching for some time and thought I would ask thoughts on what wideband/boost gauge (preferably combo) anyone is using/has used. Digging through amazon reviews is fine but even better if I can hear it here.
Thanks for any opinions.
Andy

 

[shouldbeasy]

I'm using a PLX SM-AFR and DM-100 gauge system and it works well.

Looks like they've updated their product line recently though, hopefully a bit less bulky - that was my only complaint with the modules, they're just a bit too big for easy mounting.

Wideband O2 Touch Screen Multi Guage | Vacuum & Boost

 

[gamefreakgc]

Last time I was looking into getting a wideband, a lot of people were using the Innovate gauges. They are accurate and pretty nifty. Here's the most commonly used ones:

DB Gauges: Air Fuel Ratio Guage

MTX-L Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Gauge

 

[MTD]

Hey, folks - Been researching for some time and thought I would ask thoughts on what wideband/boost gauge (preferably combo) anyone is using/has used. Digging through amazon reviews is fine but even better if I can hear it here.
Thanks for any opinions.
Andy

I really really like my AEM uego! They are about the same price and do not require any free air calibration.

 

[SCRunner12]

Can anyone with a wideband and Ultragauge please compare the wideband readings to the lambda reading on their ultragauge? I want to see how accurate it is. I know it's not a replacement, but would be nice to know if it is close until I can afford a wideband.

 

[shootmymime]

It's basically spot on for me

 

[afg10000]

I really really like my AEM uego! They are about the same price and do not require any free air calibration.

Are you speaking of this one?
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4900-W...sr=8-2&keywords=aem+uego+wideband+boost+gauge

That's what I've kinda been eyeballing. I appreciate everyone's opinions.
Thanks -

 

[MTD]

Are you speaking of this one?
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4900-W...sr=8-2&keywords=aem+uego+wideband+boost+gauge

That's what I've kinda been eyeballing. I appreciate everyone's opinions.
Thanks -

Nope you don't need the failsafe version. It was the 30-4010 I believe

 

[Lego3k1]

Quick question for all of you. My 96 4Runner has 250k on it. Just did a compression test and all cylinders are right around 180psi. I'm looking to supercharge it and looking for people's opinions and experience with my mileage and compresion numbers. I'd be lying if I said I wouldnt drive it hard, but I will be keeping the stock pulley.

Thanks in advance.

 

[shootmymime]

Quick question for all of you. My 96 4Runner has 250k on it. Just did a compression test and all cylinders are right around 180psi. I'm looking to supercharge it and looking for people's opinions and experience with my mileage and compresion numbers. I'd be lying if I said I wouldnt drive it hard, but I will be keeping the stock pulley.

Thanks in advance.

id say do it. i just did mine like 3 months ago at 210,000 ish.

mine runs good, ive currently got the stock pulley with the 7th injector. waiting to install my 2.2 pulley.

dont forget the other parts that go with the SCr.

 

[RussToy]

Hello Guys,

After a year and a half, I'm finally getting ready to install my SC! However, before I do....I have a quick question: how often are you suppose to change the oil in your SC? I purchased mine used and it has a little over 10,xxx miles on it. Didn't want to pull the nose cone off the SC unless a really needed to.

Thanks for the help...

-Russel

 

[shootmymime]

What 40k?

Do you have the gray or black one?
I'm guessing the gray one since you have to pull off the nose cone

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Hello Guys,

After a year and a half, I'm finally getting ready to install my SC! However, before I do....I have a quick question: how often are you suppose to change the oil in your SC? I purchased mine used and it has a little over 10,xxx miles on it. Didn't want to pull the nose cone off the SC unless a really needed to.

Thanks for the help...

-Russel

If it's the grey sc, and you haven't installed it yet, you can change the oil with out removing the nose cone (the black sc you can change the oil on or of the truck with out removing the nose). I'd do it now while it's off. It's been sitting a while the oil may get a bit sludgy... That way you have piece of mind, and another 30k.... Some people never change the oil... I have the grey sc, and am currently modding it so I can change the oil with out removing the sc... Their is a write up with link on the first page.

 

[Lego3k1]

id say do it. i just did mine like 3 months ago at 210,000 ish.

mine runs good, ive currently got the stock pulley with the 7th injector. waiting to install my 2.2 pulley.

dont forget the other parts that go with the SCr.

Just what I wanted to hear lol.

 

[RussToy]

What 40k?

Do you have the gray or black one?
I'm guessing the gray one since you have to pull off the nose cone

Duh!! Sorry, I should have listed that...I have a black one.

If it's the grey sc, and you haven't installed it yet, you can change the oil with out removing the nose cone (the black sc you can change the oil on or of the truck with out removing the nose). I'd do it now while it's off. It's been sitting a while the oil may get a bit sludgy... That way you have piece of mind, and another 30k.... Some people never change the oil... I have the grey sc, and am currently modding it so I can change the oil with out removing the sc... Their is a write up with link on the first page.

Thank you for the response and advise! I believe I'll go a head and change the oil. Like you said, might as well since it's on the bench...and for the peace of mind. You're saying 30,000 miles per change...that will put me right at 200,000 and will be easy to remember

Now as far as taking the nose cone off. I mentioned this, not to change the oil, but to change the small black "coupler" that connects the nose cone to the main body. It came in my "TRD SC Oil Change Kit" that I ordered from TRD. The kit came with the following:

- Instructions to remove/replace the SC...and installation of the coupler
- 120ml of oil for the SC
- Small blk coupler...used to connect the nose cone to the main body.
- Toyota red RTV...instead of a gasket
- New oil drain plug for the SC

Thanks again for the help guys

-Russel

 

[SCRunner12]

Might as well change it to cover your basis, but I wouldn't worry about the oil going bad. The oil won't degrade and even a brand new SC has it's oil just sitting in it for years on the shelf.