The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
MTD
New member
Yep I have no fueling mods. My 99 had the wideband sensors, but my 2000 that I have now has them for sure. As far as I know the ESC function should seemingly work but doesn't. Frankly its a moot point since URD stuff is utter shit with no support other than urd its self and we all know how they are. Also if I go fic it will be nice because I can tune using the Afr single from my UEGO and have a separate race tune for when we go to the drag strip for a little fun lol
MTD
New member
I only know what urd is telling me about their products and that is exactly why I'm going to go with the AEM...
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Angus, you have to remember you are running a "modded" supercharger. Running a larger than stock pulley has never been done before on these forums so there's nothing to base it off. All fuel maps, add-ons, etc. will have different results for you.
If I had seen your posts sooner about the 7th injector I would have advised against it. Often people run the 7th for more boost with the 2.2" or 2.1" pulley, not less. Adding it with less boost will just make it run rich. AFR's should be in the 11 to 12 range at WOT. Like you discovered, most injectors and piggy backs are meant to kick in at higher boost which for you is near WOT.
The only thing that will eliminate the ping would be lowering intake temperatures or retarding timing. I don't think your controller is doing anything for you since retarding the timing isn't working, but taking away the timing advance will also take away any power gains.
If I had seen your posts sooner about the 7th injector I would have advised against it. Often people run the 7th for more boost with the 2.2" or 2.1" pulley, not less. Adding it with less boost will just make it run rich. AFR's should be in the 11 to 12 range at WOT. Like you discovered, most injectors and piggy backs are meant to kick in at higher boost which for you is near WOT.
The only thing that will eliminate the ping would be lowering intake temperatures or retarding timing. I don't think your controller is doing anything for you since retarding the timing isn't working, but taking away the timing advance will also take away any power gains.
I do see that how the maps came programmed is for the 6-7psi, that has been adjusted.
No matter what, lowering the boost is going to make it less likely to ping so this is why I am puzzled as to what is going on.
I may decide to go back to the stock pulley if I can get rid of the ping but there is no way you are going to tell me that higher boost is going to ping less - or maybe there is?
You happen to have the Stant part #?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
No, more of running any boost has the capacity to ping, which is what your are experiencing. With this supercharger it's not an exact science, it's not the best one ever designed. But the ping does not seem to have any terrible long-term effects. The only person I know who had any longevity issues with the supercharger was a guy who had it on a Taco and drove it like he stole it and eventually burnt the valves.
I know you're frustrated and have spend a lot of money on it so far, but there's no for sure fix. Some rigs ping, others do not. Mine is in the "do not" category but it was babied for half of it's life and is being babied again.
My last thoughts are to lower intake temperature and to take the ECU out of the equation (something is overriding your fuel and timing settings it seems) you could try methanol injection. Use a simple 1 PSI start point progressive controller. But now we are talking another $500, and you would probably need to remove the 7th injector since it'd run stupid rich at WOT. Or, it could still be a fuel deliver issue. Have you tried diagnosing your fuel delivery system? New fuel filter or having the injectors cleaned?
shootmymime
New member
uh.. yeah. so do you. look on the 1st page of this thread. thats why this page was started.
Yes, thanks for your input and I have gone over all of what you are saying and more.
I forgot to list that I put a matched set of matched injectors in.
I have lots of experience running meth and I have thought of it but I wanted this to be "simple"
I have also discussed the ping with some of the guys I tune with and they all seem to agree with me that these light pings at part throttle under light boost are going to take a long time - if ever, to cause damage - even though cast pistons do have weak ring lands.
the main point of this is that I did not want to even go this far and have to do the 7th injector, I wanted a simple setup with no frills and no headaches.
I bet a small intercooled turbo with a big A/R turbine housing would have been easier to tune, as the boost would not hit hard at low RPM and it would have low intake temps.
This IS frustrating and I do appreciate your input.
If my dyno session doesn't work out tomorrow, I'll probably be trying ethanol at about 10%.
Haha nice - I thought you were gonna say that
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I hope you can get it sorted out on the next session. Turbos are easier to tune like you said, it's easier at high RPM's. But that's why the 4Runner crowd loves the supercharger, because you can get instant torque at low RPM's which makes it very capable off-road.
I know the feeling of just wanting something to work and no matter how hard you try, it just won't. There's a price to pay for perfectionism! Great for the office but bad at home on the pocketbook!
s20004runner
New member
Angus, I was rooting for your success in tuning w/ a larger pulley. Hope you get it on the next one.
I think I may go do the water/meth setup w/ a larger pulley and skip the the urd 7th.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1403-1998-toyota-4runner-meth-addict/
I think I may go do the water/meth setup w/ a larger pulley and skip the the urd 7th.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1403-1998-toyota-4runner-meth-addict/
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If I did not mind filling the meth all the time I would do the meth as I have a few other cars that run it.
Another option is mixing 10-15% ethanol.
An interesting development after speaking to a friend of mine who is a race engine builder.
It is remotely possible that the ping or knock I am hearing is actually the piston rocking under load or piston slap.
I am going to add a gallon of C16 to the tank and see if it sounds the same - there is no way I am going to have detonation with that fuel in there.
If that is the case then it will get interesting tuning...
It is remotely possible that the ping or knock I am hearing is actually the piston rocking under load or piston slap.
I am going to add a gallon of C16 to the tank and see if it sounds the same - there is no way I am going to have detonation with that fuel in there.
If that is the case then it will get interesting tuning...
Jhelms
New member
Not sure if this will help you all but this is how I used to tune with OEM ECU's and a piggy back with excellent results
I would unplug the stock primary front A/F sensor. This would throw a cell but lock it into closed loop so all maps are fixed. This would resolve the oem ecu from fighting with the piggy back / trying to adjust around it
Once that was done, I would use a wide band and adjust the correction maps / use some auto tune features just to help get the map on track during normal driving and then add in the data as needed. This would work with most piggybacks but I had the best luck surprisingly with e-manage ultimate which boomslang has a convenient 5vzfe harness for.
For something this low of boost and what everyone is going for - seems like cake to do. Just needs to be wired properly and setup. Skip the 7th injector and just add in some slightly larger injectors and do it as correct as a piggy back setup allows.
Once I pick up an SC, I will likely start to experiment with the same thing.
I would unplug the stock primary front A/F sensor. This would throw a cell but lock it into closed loop so all maps are fixed. This would resolve the oem ecu from fighting with the piggy back / trying to adjust around it
Once that was done, I would use a wide band and adjust the correction maps / use some auto tune features just to help get the map on track during normal driving and then add in the data as needed. This would work with most piggybacks but I had the best luck surprisingly with e-manage ultimate which boomslang has a convenient 5vzfe harness for.
For something this low of boost and what everyone is going for - seems like cake to do. Just needs to be wired properly and setup. Skip the 7th injector and just add in some slightly larger injectors and do it as correct as a piggy back setup allows.
Once I pick up an SC, I will likely start to experiment with the same thing.
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This did work on some cars but will not work on the 5VZFE because we are using the "ESC" (EGO signal conditioner) function to "fool" the stock ECU into not pulling fuel. The "ESC" function basically injects it's own "lean" voltage value into the ECU's O2 sensor input under boost. The function actually works fairly well although it does not have the tuning resolution that I would like to see so it only works so well BUT it DOES work and gives you the ability to tune closed loop fuel.
Another point of the 7th injector that I like is that spraying fuel through the blower via the 7th injector gives some cooling effect as well as helps to seal the rotors which actually gave me about a 1psi increase in boost.
I have actually got the truck working nicely now, and the knock is under control.
afg10000
New member
Yes. I got my Duratracs to chirp shifting into 2nd.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
A stock Honda Civic will chirp the tires when it's wet outside. Heck, my slug of a Pickup that put out about 130 RWHP chirped when it was wet 
