The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[RussToy]

Has anyone with a supercharger done a Level 10 bullet proof rebuild on their transmission? My transmission was pretty abused by the PO and I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the Level 10 bullet proof rebuild this tax season. I am just hoping someone else has done this to confirm I am making the right decision.

Thanks for the link but there was nothing in there about the Level 10 parts. His transmission is/was in good shape - mine not so much.

Not sure what side of the fence you're on about Gadget, @ URD...but he did a "Bullet Proof" build on his trans, too include a special torque converter. IIRC he listed the shop he used and all the info. Been a while since I've read over it. Anyway, here's a link to his website.

Transmission Modifications

I hope this helps...this is what I figured I'd do if/when my trans gives up the ghost...haha!!

Good luck!!!

 

[MTD]

This is for everybody with a charger.. When cruising, what does the. Boost gauge show?


Cruising would be at 55 with the cruise control on flat land?

~10-20 in hg. The more the better lol gas mileage is indicated pretty well by how much vacuum you pull while cruising.

Could be different with you though since v8's can pull less vac and be more efficient.

 

[tx_shooter]

Not sure what side of the fence you're on about Gadget, @ URD...but he did a "Bullet Proof" build on his trans, too include a special torque converter. IIRC he listed the shop he used and all the info. Been a while since I've read over it. Anyway, here's a link to his website.

Transmission Modifications

I hope this helps...this is what I figured I'd do if/when my trans gives up the ghost...haha!!

Good luck!!!

Exactly what I was thinking. While I do not look forward to dropping that kind of cash on non-fun parts; I do want to make sure the trans is not going to leave me busted in the middle of nowhere.

 

[RussToy]

Exactly what I was thinking. While I do not look forward to dropping that kind of cash on non-fun parts; I do want to make sure the trans is not going to leave me busted in the middle of nowhere.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Please let us know if you go through with this. Love to hear about your experience with them.

Oops...and of course, picture are always welcomed also...lol!!

 

[tx_shooter]

That's exactly what I was thinking. Please let us know if you go through with this. Love to hear about your experience with them.

Oops...and of course, picture are always welcomed also...lol!!

Will do; since I do not think I won the powerball it looks like it will have to wait till tax refund time. I am ready for a transmission that is setup to put some power to the pavement instead of this luxury-shifting soccer milf transmission I have now.

 

[Singtoe]

~10-20 in hg. The more the better lol gas mileage is indicated pretty well by how much vacuum you pull while cruising.

Could be different with you though since v8's can pull less vac and be more efficient.

Mine reads the same as yours.


Here is another question for everybody. Does your supercharger make more boost driving when you floor at 75 mph or is it the same when you get on it at 25?

I.E. What is your psi romp on it at traffic light, and what is your psi when you romp on it at 70 mph?

 

[MTD]

Mine reads the same as yours.


Here is another question for everybody. Does your supercharger make more boost driving when you floor at 75 mph or is it the same when you get on it at 25?

I.E. What is your psi romp on it at traffic light, and what is your psi when you romp on it at 70 mph?

Yes, a little more when I am pulling at wot up a hill tho.

 

[RussToy]

Will do; since I do not think I won the powerball it looks like it will have to wait till tax refund time. I am ready for a transmission that is setup to put some power to the pavement instead of this luxury-shifting soccer milf transmission I have now.

Hahaha...yeah, I don't think I won the Power Ball either :frusty: Maybe no one won and we'll both have another shot at it...but it'll be over a "Billion"....$1,000,000,000 :jaw: Crap...that's a lot of zeros

If you believe what all Gadget wrote, between the valve body and torque converter upgrades...that'll cut a full second off your track time! Unsure if you speak/follow drag racing, but that is HUGE! So you should be shit'n an a get' when you're done my friend...lol!! It'll be money well spent.

So are you looking at ordering just a re-build kit from Level 10 and do the work yourself? Or having a local Dealership or repair shop that you trust well enough to do the build...and do it right!?! Hey, you can do a Gadget and just drive your trans to Level 10 and have them work their magic while you watch.

Everything I've read/seen on these Trans...say they're complex/complicated. That there's enough reasoning I need to keep my hands off. How brave are you??

 

[tx_shooter]

I speak a little drag racing but am really more interested in knowing the trans is not losing too much power loss on me. I take my 4R off road and want all the torque I can get without ruining a good DD.

As for being brave - I learned a while ago that there is a fine line between brave and stupid. I'll rebuild a motor because they make sense. Suck - Bang - Exhale and repeat. Automatic transmissions are black magic and I have no intention to do anything more complicated to it that changing the fluid every 30k - 50k miles. I drive about 35-40k miles a year so it will be more often than people think.

 

[ColtonAdkison]

My recently bought Supercharged Runner is throwing a P0330 code, so I replaced the sensors with my old engines sensors and replaced the old harness with a new OEM harness.. Still the same code.. Before all of this I had a Fuel to Lean code (forget the P0XXX code) show up and the guy from O'Reillys told me to use Lucas Fuel Injector and replace my fuel filter. I did so and that code went away, but a few weeks later this knock sensor code shows up.. I thought ping or knocking but I'm not entirely sure what it sounds like.. Then I read that these superchargers need hotter plugs. So I checked the ones in it and they were cheap ACDelco Copper tips, I switched out the wires with NGK wires and put in Denso IK22 Iridum plugs. Runs a lot better! but sometimes I still get that shaking to it. I'm now thinking fuel starvation but stumped on where to move next.

Planning on getting the URD 7th injector kit and rebuilding the Charger. Any other things I should check or look at before I get my hands full?

 

[allwheeldrive]

Get a new mass airflow meter. The knock sensor code could be a result of the fuel trims being too lean, As a result of the boost and lack of fuel causing pre-detonation from the high cylinder temps.

That's where I would start. Gotta make sure the Ecu can accurately gauge what it's trying to breathe in before you can just throw gas at it.

 

[ColtonAdkison]

Get a new mass airflow meter. The knock sensor code could be a result of the fuel trims being too lean, As a result of the boost and lack of fuel causing pre-detonation from the high cylinder temps.

That's where I would start. Gotta make sure the Ecu can accurately gauge what it's trying to breathe in before you can just throw gas at it.

I did have a MAF Sensor code get thrown after the fuel filter was changed. So I pulled the sensor out and cleaned it rather than replacing it. Sprayed electric cleaner on the two wires and let dry before I put it back in. The people before I bought it didn't have a air filter in the dang thing.. So I put that in as well.. When I get home tonight I'll see if it's possible to test the MAF Sensor to see if it's functioning correctly. I might just do what you said and replace it since it could be the culprit.

 

[allwheeldrive]

I know a lot of people swear by being able to clean it and get away with it. But I've seen too many that just aren't the same after cleaning. Working for Toyota I've seen plenty of fuel trim too lean codes not fixed by "reman'd" or cleaned sensors. I can't explain why that is, but new just works. Helps if you have a scanner that can tell you the fuel trim numbers, to see where they are at idle. Off idle and under load, it's impossible to accurately gauge what it "should be" reading.

 

[gamefreakgc]

My recently bought Supercharged Runner is throwing a P0330 code, so I replaced the sensors with my old engines sensors and replaced the old harness with a new OEM harness.. Still the same code.. Before all of this I had a Fuel to Lean code (forget the P0XXX code) show up and the guy from O'Reillys told me to use Lucas Fuel Injector and replace my fuel filter. I did so and that code went away, but a few weeks later this knock sensor code shows up.. I thought ping or knocking but I'm not entirely sure what it sounds like.. Then I read that these superchargers need hotter plugs. So I checked the ones in it and they were cheap ACDelco Copper tips, I switched out the wires with NGK wires and put in Denso IK22 Iridum plugs. Runs a lot better! but sometimes I still get that shaking to it. I'm now thinking fuel starvation but stumped on where to move next.

Planning on getting the URD 7th injector kit and rebuilding the Charger. Any other things I should check or look at before I get my hands full?

Misread your post.

Do you have a vacuum leak at all? If you got a P0171 code (lean) it's usually a vacuum leak.

Don't add anything else to your engine until you get it fixed. If you are still getting that knock sensor code it will retard your timing drastically so as not to damage the engine, which steals all power.

 

[ColtonAdkison]

I know a lot of people swear by being able to clean it and get away with it. But I've seen too many that just aren't the same after cleaning. Working for Toyota I've seen plenty of fuel trim too lean codes not fixed by "reman'd" or cleaned sensors. I can't explain why that is, but new just works. Helps if you have a scanner that can tell you the fuel trim numbers, to see where they are at idle. Off idle and under load, it's impossible to accurately gauge what it "should be" reading.

I'm trying to contact a friend about letting me use his scanner now and hopefully I can see what my past codes were. The P0175 bank 2 sounds about right but not entirely sure.. This weekend I'll order a MAF Sensor as well.

 

[ColtonAdkison]

Misread your post.

Do you have a vacuum leak at all? If you got a P0171 code (lean) it's usually a vacuum leak.

Don't add anything else to your engine until you get it fixed. If you are still getting that knock sensor code it will retard your timing drastically so as not to damage the engine, which steals all power.

No vacuum leaks.. When I first bought the vehicle it had no CEL on and 4x4 worked.. Took it home and a few days later the 4x4 stopped working! About the time the "Engine to Lean" Code came on is when the 4x4 stopped working. Turned out it was the vacuum line coming from the VSV going to the "T" hooked up at the boost line.. Not sure if it's supposed to be "T"ed into that line but for safety I followed this outline - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-trd-supercharger-vac-line-routing-help.289531/

Ran a single boost line and "T"Ed the 4x4 into the fast idle as shown in the diagram.

The P0175 code sounds like the one I had before I put in the new fuel filter.

 

[Aelfwine]

I created a new thread but been advised to post here. So I installed a SC I bought used and its making a weird noise. Heres a video.
https://vimeo.com/151977831
The nose cone seems ok as I rotated it by hand and its tight and no sounds. Also the bypass valve is sticking I think. Not sure how its suppose to operate though...

I'd appreciate some input please and thank you!

 

[MTD]

I created a new thread but been advised to post here. So I installed a SC I bought used and its making a weird noise. Heres a video.
https://vimeo.com/151977831
The nose cone seems ok as I rotated it by hand and its tight and no sounds. Also the bypass valve is sticking I think. Not sure how its suppose to operate though...

I'd appreciate some input please and thank you!

Sounds like it needs a full rebuild. That is not a bad bypass valve. I suggest looking up stiegemeier porting.

 

[Aelfwine]

Sounds like it needs a full rebuild. That is not a bad bypass valve. I suggest looking up stiegemeier porting.

I got a quote from a local shop for $980 Canadian full rebuild. JB charges 700+ so seems pretty reasonable. It was advertised as fully rebuilt when I bought it from a guy from Quebec. So I got screwed over... Paid $1600 for it...

 

[MTD]

I got a quote from a local shop for $980 Canadian full rebuild. JB charges 700+ so seems pretty reasonable. It was advertised as fully rebuilt when I bought it from a guy from Quebec. So I got screwed over... Paid $1600 for it...

Jon bond is a joke. Look up stiegemeier they will be just as cheap as JB or cheaper and it will be done right....

There is a chance you got screwed, but I would have stiegemeier do their inspection first.