The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Kurtis here. Coming back from the dead. Sorta. Anyone know if you actually need the post cat O2 sensor hooked up so the engine will run correctly? I don't care about the CEL.



Hooked up. Not sure.
Working. It does not. Car should start.


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Kurtis here. Coming back from the dead. Sorta. Anyone know if you actually need the post cat O2 sensor hooked up so the engine will run correctly? I don't care about the CEL.

Without it, it will mess up the fuel trims.

Search "rear O2 sensor simulator" or something like that on the forums.
 
Kurtis here. Coming back from the dead. Sorta. Anyone know if you actually need the post cat O2 sensor hooked up so the engine will run correctly? I don't care about the CEL.

My rear cat was throwing an error and hurting my fuel mileage. I purchased the URD O2 simulator to fix the error. My mileage picked up a bit after that. Then I dropped the rear cat and gave the inside a good scrubbing to clean it up and make it all shiny again. (read that as you will) I left the front cat alone since it does the heavy work. Now my daily driving mileage has jumped from 13.5 to 16.5 mpg. It drives great and my overall mileage is much better buy YMMV.
 
Just a heads up for everyone. Don't know if its been said.

If in need of a complete nose cone kit. Do not buy from Toyota. The lowest price I have seen is $688 but usually around $750.

Call Magnuson directly and ask for it. I didn't see it on their website. They quoted me a little over $300 +shipping.
 
I got an email from URD the other day, thought I would relay the message.

URD has discovered a potential problem with our 7th Injector Kit for the TRD/Magnuson supercharger systems for the 3.4L V6 engines.

The kit includes a specially made vacuum T fitting that is used to bring a manifold/boost reference signal to the control unit. The T fitting has a restrictor molded into it to dampen the impeller pulses from the positive displacement supercharger.

We found some T fittings in the batch that were completely blocked off instead of just having a restriction. There is a chance that some of these Ts made it out to customers in kits. If your kit has a T that is completely blocked off it will not work correctly.

We encourage all customers to remove the vacuum line from the control unit and simply blow and suck on it. If it is completely blocked off you will not be able to. If it is correct, it should be hard to blow through it, but you will be able to.

If you find yours to be completely blocked off contact URD Tech Support by EMAIL ([email protected]) including your original order number and current shipping address stating, you have a T that is completely blocked off and URD will get a new one shipped out to you ASAP.

This should only involve a small number of kits shipped from URD since APRIL 2016.



Steve (Gadget) Dopler

Sorry if I missed it somewhere (I haven't made it through all 167 pages), but do you know when about this t fitting may have had problems. My kit has never worked quite right for a number of reasons. I plan to test it but since I did not get this email, I'm thinking mine may have not been in the time frame of this issue.

Thanks!
 
My junk is not street legal, is a total trailer queen, and will never see the street again. I've looked into the simulator but I am trying avoid running another O2 sensor all together. I don't even have a cat.
 
My junk is not street legal, is a total trailer queen, and will never see the street again. I've looked into the simulator but I am trying avoid running another O2 sensor all together. I don't even have a cat.

Trailer queen or not; your fuel mappings will suck and the performance will follow.
 
Trailer queen or not; your fuel mappings will suck and the performance will follow.

He is talking about the O2 down stream of the cat. This is for emissions only and has nothing to do with fuel trims. The upstream O2 is what the computer is using for fuel and mapping.

The sims for the rear O2 just output what Toyota has programed as the required voltage for proper cat converter operation. It can be hotwired with a capacitor and resistor for a whopping $15 from your local radioshack and a few minutes to not have to worry which converter is installed or it's performance say if you want something that flows better for the SC.
 
Need a little advice. Been eying a SC for some time now and I'm about to pull the trigger, but I need to know what my best application might be. Let's just say I'm leaning towards a Gen 2 SC

Daily driver, 190K, extremely well maintained, runs like a top.

I'm not looking for a stupid amount of power/boost. I'd just like that little bit to aid in hills/overtaking when need be.

Should I just get a gen 1 for cheap, slap in on, no 7th injector/supporting mods? I know the power output is the same between 1st and 2nd gens, except the 1st gens are a pain to service.

Or....

Get a gen 2, pay the price for one, slap it on with no 7th/supporting mods?
 
I'm aware of a Gen 2 SC with 7th injector kit for sale for $3,000 all together or $2400 w/o the injector kit. Supposed to have only 4,000 miles on it.

Does that sound like a fair price?
Any problems with putting an SC on a high mile engine with 266k miles?

Thanks,
Justin
 
I put my sc on around 265k miles. I think I cracked a head or blew a head gasket @290k.

I put in the 7th injector kit a few months ago, with a blocked boost tee, I wonder if that might have caused the head issue.
 
I put my sc on around 265k miles. I think I cracked a head or blew a head gasket @290k.



I put in the 7th injector kit a few months ago, with a blocked boost tee, I wonder if that might have caused the head issue.



I heard about that from urd. Could you pursue them for failure manufactured part that caused damage?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I heard about that from urd. Could you pursue them for failure manufactured part that caused damage?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll ask him, not expecting much sympathy with a motor with close to 300k on it. I can get a JDM motor locally for around $1K seems like a better idea than rebuilding\replacing both heads.
 
Need a little advice. Been eying a SC for some time now and I'm about to pull the trigger, but I need to know what my best application might be. Let's just say I'm leaning towards a Gen 2 SC

Daily driver, 190K, extremely well maintained, runs like a top.

I'm not looking for a stupid amount of power/boost. I'd just like that little bit to aid in hills/overtaking when need be.

Should I just get a gen 1 for cheap, slap in on, no 7th injector/supporting mods? I know the power output is the same between 1st and 2nd gens, except the 1st gens are a pain to service.

Or....

Get a gen 2, pay the price for one, slap it on with no 7th/supporting mods?

I found a first gen for dirt cheap, slapped it on at 250k miles, just changed plugs and ran it for over a year trouble free. If you're just looking for more power for the hills like I was I say just do that. I was more than satisfied and my rig was built and heavy.
 
Need a little advice. Been eying a SC for some time now and I'm about to pull the trigger, but I need to know what my best application might be. Let's just say I'm leaning towards a Gen 2 SC

Daily driver, 190K, extremely well maintained, runs like a top.

I'm not looking for a stupid amount of power/boost. I'd just like that little bit to aid in hills/overtaking when need be.

Should I just get a gen 1 for cheap, slap in on, no 7th injector/supporting mods? I know the power output is the same between 1st and 2nd gens, except the 1st gens are a pain to service.

Or....

Get a gen 2, pay the price for one, slap it on with no 7th/supporting mods?

Or get a cheap grey gen 1, don't get fuel mods, and save some money for another project!

Just be aware, if your grey gen 1 one needs new bearings it'll cost $500 or so to have it rebuilt at a performance shop. The black gen 2's can be bought new or rebuild by just replacing the nose cone, literally bolt-on.

Once you put a supercharger on it you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner!

I'm aware of a Gen 2 SC with 7th injector kit for sale for $3,000 all together or $2400 w/o the injector kit. Supposed to have only 4,000 miles on it.

Does that sound like a fair price?
Any problems with putting an SC on a high mile engine with 266k miles?

Thanks,
Justin

If your engine is in good shape, runs strong, idles well, no valve/head issues, then yeah you'll be ok. It only runs at 6-7 PSI, pretty gentle as far as boost goes.
 
I'm aware of a Gen 2 SC with 7th injector kit for sale for $3,000 all together or $2400 w/o the injector kit. Supposed to have only 4,000 miles on it.

Does that sound like a fair price?
Any problems with putting an SC on a high mile engine with 266k miles?

Thanks,
Justin

My 2001 4R has 250,000 miles now and has had the SC since the first 10k miles thanks to the original owner. I have had no motor issues and I put the last 60,000 miles on the rig.
 

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