gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Can we have our thread back and have notifications popping up that are actually about superchargers?
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
superman786
New member
If you purchase a used T4R, is there a way to know if the SC was installed by the dealer when it was originally purchased, or added afterwards?
I didn't see it listed on the car specs from the carfax or if I look it up on toyota's owner portal.
I didn't see it listed on the car specs from the carfax or if I look it up on toyota's owner portal.
poopypants
New member
picture?
poopypants
New member
Tim, I actually bought a used first generation supercharger that needed a rebuild. It only cost me $700 off the bat, the additional rebuild costs an additional power mods that I added only brought me up to $1400 total... that's methanol injection, smaller pulley, bigger injectors, and a bigger fuel pump...
By the time I finish it off with a solid A/F gauge and the piggy back controller I will only be in $2000.00..... Don't have to buy new and don't have to get the 7th...
Hit up the "3.4 Supercharged (Toyota)" FB group page. Some good deals to be had from members there.
SCRunner12
New member
Meh, they are working on a garbage 4runner so I don’t approve...
Yeah I’ll add it. Also for future reference, I’m still around but don’t check often and somehow all my notifications got removed. So I don’t know if I am mentioned or PM’d so sorry for any delay when responding.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
IK22's are actually 2 steps colder than the stock equivalent for an iridium plug. Some people have issues with the a supercharged engine eating spark plugs, some don't. There are 1 and 2 step colder plugs in dual ground copper and platinum by NGK the last time I looked. Here's a chart on how to understand the spark plug numbering and which ones to order if you want a colder plug:
Bijan
New member
IK22's are actually 2 steps colder than the stock equivalent for an iridium plug. Some people have issues with the a supercharged engine eating spark plugs, some don't. There are 1 and 2 step colder plugs in dual ground copper and platinum by NGK the last time I looked. Here's a chart on how to understand the spark plug numbering and which ones to order if you want a colder plug:
Thanks for the reply!
I need help please!
I have a 1998 Tacoma that I installed a TRD S/C and recently installed a URD Mass Air Flow Fuel & Timing Calibrator / FTC1-017D Fuel/Timing Calibrator.
Has anyone installed one on their truck and if so can you give me any tips or pictures of the install?
Have you done any tuning? I got it wired in and took it for a test drive. Acceleration feels smoother, and it revs in neutral much quicker, but I still have the pre boost pinging in high gear. Also, while it still makes 7 pounds of boost at WOT, it does not feel the same.
I have an AEM wideband AFR gauge, an Ultra Gauge with timing, short fuel trim, long fuel trim, air inlet temp, engine temp and voltage displayed and my boost gauge.
I installed 2002 3.4 injectors, I was told they were a little more than the ones I had when I did the S/C install.
Gadget said it has a map for larger injectors and to "tune it now."
I'm looking at these injectors in 330cc
https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/toyota-lexus-supercharged-1uz-1mz-2jz-3uz
After installing I noticed that my throttle response is much smoother, the transition from closed loop to open loop is seamless, it starts making boost sooner than it did before and while it accelerates quicker, it doesn't have the same feel as it did before.
I received my cable yesterday, took forever to connect to the FTC, and then took another eternity to read the MAPs.
I have a lot to learn about this, and I don't know if I am ready to get started. But I need to get rid of this pre boost pinging before I end up blowing an engine.
Some notes from my drive this morning.
Pre boost at 3000 RPMs and 14.4 AFR
Pedal to the floor, 13.4 AFR when boost starts
WOT @ 4000 RPMs, open loop and 7psi boost was 12 AFR
Closed loop timing pre boost 26°
WOT open loop timing advance 14°
I live at 7000’ elevation and my drive to work takes me to 5600’ and once a month I drive down to 1000’ for military training.
Does anyone have a MAP they would be willing to share that could help me get started?
I have a 1998 Tacoma that I installed a TRD S/C and recently installed a URD Mass Air Flow Fuel & Timing Calibrator / FTC1-017D Fuel/Timing Calibrator.
Has anyone installed one on their truck and if so can you give me any tips or pictures of the install?
Have you done any tuning? I got it wired in and took it for a test drive. Acceleration feels smoother, and it revs in neutral much quicker, but I still have the pre boost pinging in high gear. Also, while it still makes 7 pounds of boost at WOT, it does not feel the same.
I have an AEM wideband AFR gauge, an Ultra Gauge with timing, short fuel trim, long fuel trim, air inlet temp, engine temp and voltage displayed and my boost gauge.
I installed 2002 3.4 injectors, I was told they were a little more than the ones I had when I did the S/C install.
Gadget said it has a map for larger injectors and to "tune it now."
I'm looking at these injectors in 330cc
https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/toyota-lexus-supercharged-1uz-1mz-2jz-3uz
After installing I noticed that my throttle response is much smoother, the transition from closed loop to open loop is seamless, it starts making boost sooner than it did before and while it accelerates quicker, it doesn't have the same feel as it did before.
I received my cable yesterday, took forever to connect to the FTC, and then took another eternity to read the MAPs.
I have a lot to learn about this, and I don't know if I am ready to get started. But I need to get rid of this pre boost pinging before I end up blowing an engine.
Some notes from my drive this morning.
Pre boost at 3000 RPMs and 14.4 AFR
Pedal to the floor, 13.4 AFR when boost starts
WOT @ 4000 RPMs, open loop and 7psi boost was 12 AFR
Closed loop timing pre boost 26°
WOT open loop timing advance 14°
I live at 7000’ elevation and my drive to work takes me to 5600’ and once a month I drive down to 1000’ for military training.
Does anyone have a MAP they would be willing to share that could help me get started?
4Reak Show
New member
Do you have the 7th injector or just the MAF calibrator? Or is there a stand alone timing calibrator?
For my manual, I had to remove a good amount of timing (increasing the numbers) to retard it to stop pinging.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For my manual, I had to remove a good amount of timing (increasing the numbers) to retard it to stop pinging.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
NWFL4Runner
Member
rear needle bearings (gen 2)
So for all your folks with more experience than me: Are you using a blind hole puller to remove the rear housing needle bearings on a gen 2 supercharger? I've tried to read as much as I can but some folks seem content to bash/press them out.
If you're using the puller, are you doing anything to the bearings before, or just cramming the puller in and cranking away until it grips?
So for all your folks with more experience than me: Are you using a blind hole puller to remove the rear housing needle bearings on a gen 2 supercharger? I've tried to read as much as I can but some folks seem content to bash/press them out.
If you're using the puller, are you doing anything to the bearings before, or just cramming the puller in and cranking away until it grips?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Hope I can help with some of your questions.
1. Pinging is not going to damage these engines. They are rock solid and very tough and designed to run at 7 PSI with no fuel mods at all. So be confident driving your 4Runner. Many of us, including myself, have had over 100,000 miles on just the supercharger alone.
2. I installed these injectors, they are rated at ~310cc: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/product-search/?itemid=766. I am running a 2.1" pulley at 10 PSI with custom intake and headers (read: flows lots of air), so 330cc with the stock pulley is too much fuel. The link I posted is to the exact same injector that URD sells as part of the 6 injector upgrade, it's tried and true and the ones they used to push before the 7th injector came out.
3. I have my 4Runner tuned at about 13.5 AFR at >0 PSI, and 12.5 at 1 PSI. Never have any ping now, but to be honest I rarely ever had ping even before I added fuel and tuned it.
4. If possible, tune your vehicle at lower elevations. Going up high isn't going to hurt anything except make less power, but going down to sea level will increase the air charge but not the fuel, causing you to run leaner than you are now and bring back your ping issues. Some people go as far as to have two tunes on systems that support multiple tunes, but that's a bit extreme for our 4Runners.
Click on the link in my signature to my build and I have all my tuning notes with the AEM F/IC 6 laid out. Not the same software, but I show my AFR targets that are working well for me.
I do not have the seventh injector, I had installed a Snow Performance methanol injection previous to the URD MAF calibrator I installed.
Thank you for your help, I am currently running a 2.1" pulley, K&N filter, 2002 MAF conversion, 3" intake tube, TRD headers, CAT delete, 2.5" exhaust and high flow muffler.
With out the deck mod I get 7 psi and with it I get 8 psi at 7000 feet elevation.
When I go down to Phoenix I can get 9 psi.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Ok, that makes a difference!
You've got a lot of air flow like I do, I found the 310cc injectors plus an extra injector (either the 7th or methanol, not sure if you currently have one or both) is perfect for these engines. My fuel trims are -6, which is darn near perfect but still allows plenty of room if I need to increase fuel down the road. I would recommend larger injectors + water/meth to be better than the 7th, since the water/meth raises the octane of the fuel considerably and allows more timing advance and less ping. You could run the 330's but I have a feeling you're going to run too rich in open loop so you'll be finding yourself removing fuel on your map. There's not a reliable way to increase boost beyond what you've got right now except for there's some 2.0" pulleys floating out there but they tend to slip. At sea level they run at roughly 13-14 PSI but you're spinning the supercharger much, much faster than it was intended at that point, which is why URD and others stopped selling them years ago. I think Pulleyboys is the only one left.
As far as tuning in closed loop, by far the easiest way to do it is by skewing the O2 sensor. I realize that you needed the MAF calibrator for the larger intake, so I'd try that first since you already have it, but hands-down the easiest way is from the O2. I haven't even touched a single value in the MAF map on my piggyback, it's all done on the O2 since it trumps everything when it comes to fuel trims on these vehicles.
SCRunner12
New member
I have always pressed them out the back with no issues. Way easier than trying to find a puller to get them out.
CalebDawson
New member
Misfire after S/C install
Hello all! Ive been using the info and learning form the forum for sometime now I've owned my 4runner for close to 10 years now but have not posted until now, I have a question someone could possibly help with, Recently I installed a S/C on my 01 4runner and upon startup for the first time I'm getting random misfire code and misfire on cylinder 6 and 5 codes, as to be expected its running rough, before the install it was running normally. Ive check for vacuum leaks and miss connection checked my torque on everything and gaskets. any ideal of what i could do next? anyone else had this problem upon install of the S/C?
Any help would be much appreciate! thanks
Hello all! Ive been using the info and learning form the forum for sometime now I've owned my 4runner for close to 10 years now but have not posted until now, I have a question someone could possibly help with, Recently I installed a S/C on my 01 4runner and upon startup for the first time I'm getting random misfire code and misfire on cylinder 6 and 5 codes, as to be expected its running rough, before the install it was running normally. Ive check for vacuum leaks and miss connection checked my torque on everything and gaskets. any ideal of what i could do next? anyone else had this problem upon install of the S/C?
Any help would be much appreciate! thanks
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Since the supercharger install itself doesn't actually change any wiring or fuel/ignition components, double check everything is plugged in securely and safely. If you replaced your spark plugs during the install, make sure the boost are clicked in completely and snug and that no wires are pinched anywhere.
You bumped or knocked something loose during the install, just a matter of finding what it is.
CalebDawson
New member
That is about what happened. I had a friend helping me install the cooler plugs and he had accidentally switched the position of two coils, that'll do it every time! Ill never let him live this one down..lol. but no harm just had me at a loss to what was going on because I was extremely diligent during the install process. I figured it out by making a list and working backwards on everything I had done and when I came to the wires and plugs I noticed something didn't seem right so I dubbed check the cylinder numbers and witch coil fired what two cylinders, swapped them back and now its running great!
Thanks for the help and response I appreciate it.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Not as bad as when I rebuilt mine and when putting it back on, I switched the vacuum hose and fuel return line. Yeah, that was fun.
