There are two different castings used on the Gen 2 SC. One you can push the needle bearings out the back and the other you have to pull one of the out with a blind bearing puller as the back is not open. I could not get mine out and ended up having it cut out with a die grinder. Was more expensive but not terrible. I have attached a pic of the different castings. Mine is the one on the right.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
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There are two different castings used on the Gen 2 SC. One you can push the needle bearings out the back and the other you have to pull one of the out with a blind bearing puller as the back is not open. I could not get mine out and ended up having it cut out with a die grinder. Was more expensive but not terrible. I have attached a pic of the different castings. Mine is the one on the right.
NWFL4Runner
Member
Thanks man, just what I wanted to know! Now, to tackle them...
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Very interesting! I was wondering why some people with the 2nd gen charger were saying they could press our the rear bearings, I thought they were just lying because there's absolutely no way to press mine out.
Jahmiroquai
Member
Silver Supra
New member
Sorry, but I disagree. Enough pinging will hurt ANY motor, even a Toyota.
The solution is to stop the pinging by properly calibrating timing, fuel, or running a better fuel... or all of the above.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Re-Gap Your Plugs!
[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION] [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] and anyone else I can't think of running a 2.1" pulley or smaller:
Re-gap your plugs to 0.035"! I just did it and took it out for a spin and WOW what a difference! I always felt like the power fell off at the top end, with a supercharger it's supposed to build power more and more as the rotors spin faster but mine kinda flopped above 4500. It still pulled, but not all that great.
Now it pulls all the way to red line and wants to pull further, but I'm not looking to push RPM's any higher. A few engine builders I was talking with highly recommended changing it and I'm so glad I did!
For reference, if you have the IK22's in there they are pre-gapped at 0.043". And yes, you can re-gap Iridium plugs, just be carful of the tip and use a feeler gauge to check thickness, not one of the coin-shaped tools. Here's a great resource explaining why it's important: The Skinny on Spark Plugs : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION] [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] and anyone else I can't think of running a 2.1" pulley or smaller:
Re-gap your plugs to 0.035"! I just did it and took it out for a spin and WOW what a difference! I always felt like the power fell off at the top end, with a supercharger it's supposed to build power more and more as the rotors spin faster but mine kinda flopped above 4500. It still pulled, but not all that great.
Now it pulls all the way to red line and wants to pull further, but I'm not looking to push RPM's any higher. A few engine builders I was talking with highly recommended changing it and I'm so glad I did!
For reference, if you have the IK22's in there they are pre-gapped at 0.043". And yes, you can re-gap Iridium plugs, just be carful of the tip and use a feeler gauge to check thickness, not one of the coin-shaped tools. Here's a great resource explaining why it's important: The Skinny on Spark Plugs : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
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Dinabox
New member
Aren't the IK22's gapped at .032 right out of the box?
https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=11179
https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=11179
pygmy warrior
New member
Mine were.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Mine were not, they were gapped at 0.043" out of the box which is the factory settings for a 4Runner. I bought them from a Toyota dealership too.
I still can't believe how much of a difference it made!
pygmy warrior
New member
Good info for future reference, Jerod!
That reminds me of a spark plug testing machine that was in the automotive shop class in high school. We would play with it making it spark and then adding pressure until it would stop sparking. I never gave any thought as a kid that pressure could affect the ability of the plug to spark, till then. That is when I learned that just because a plug sparks when it is grounded outside the head doesn't mean that it sparks when installed.
It looked like the machine was made in the 1950's but still worked perfect. I learned a lot in that class!
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Do you have examples? :baby:
Hepar
New member
But to confirm, 0.043" is the proper gap if you're running the stock pulley?
Speedy
Member
Any FI setup should have plugs gapped appropriately. I'd probably run .038 - .040 on stock pulley personally, but if your truck is rockin' at .043 then leave it be. You'll feel some power pull at high RPMs if it's not right.
Yoter
New member
Im rebuilding a 2nd Gen (black) Supercharger, I am doing a full rebuild (Nose cone and rear bearings), I have been browsing ebay looking at the rebuild kits and have a few questions.
Where is the best (and cheapest) place to buy rebuild parts?
Are there any kits or sellers that anyone would recommend?
Should I stay away from certain bearings or parts manufacturers?
Thanks!
Where is the best (and cheapest) place to buy rebuild parts?
Are there any kits or sellers that anyone would recommend?
Should I stay away from certain bearings or parts manufacturers?
Thanks!
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Yoter
New member
Is this a good quality rebuild kit?
EBAY seller "qualitysuperchargers"
It seems like there is a huge range of prices on the parts for these supercharger rebuild kits, everything from 45 dollars up to 400, what should I be looking for?
EBAY seller "qualitysuperchargers"
It seems like there is a huge range of prices on the parts for these supercharger rebuild kits, everything from 45 dollars up to 400, what should I be looking for?
