The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[mtbtim]

I failed the visual test last time I got smogged. Most places offer a "free retest", I just went back and made the corrections the guy said I needed to (i.e. swapped stock parts in that were swapped back out later...) and I passed. What drives me nuts is that I passed the emissions just fine but the visual test said I cannot have certain parts modified no matter the outcome such as the stock airbox. Ugh.

Once you fail a smog it's recorded in the database. If you go to another smog shop they will see why your vehicle failed and will bring up the same reason why it failed.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Vehicle/PubTstQry.aspx - Type in your license plate

Jerod, it's because we live in the People's Republic of California. You would think the only thing that should matter is what's coming out the tail pipe. That's the real reason for these smog laws, to keep the air we breath cleaner. Who's gives a shit what the engine or exhaust looks like. If it's passing the emissions test, why does the f@*cking state care. I love California but we have some of the most ridiculous laws. The 49 state catalytic converter will allow people to pass the emissions test and it's wayyyyy more affordable than the California spec one. But, if the smog inspector catches it on a visual inspection, they will fail you because of it.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Jerod, it's because we live in the People's Republic of California. You would think the only thing that should matter is what's coming out the tail pipe. That's the real reason for these smog laws, to keep the air we breath cleaner. Who's gives a shit what the engine or exhaust looks like. If it's passing the emissions test, why does the f@*cking state care. I love California but we have some of the most ridiculous laws. The 49 state catalytic converter will allow people to pass the emissions test and it's wayyyyy more affordable than the California spec one. But, if the smog inspector catches it on a visual inspection, they will fail you because of it.

Yeah, I totally understand the reasoning behind the laws. I'm not quite a tree-hugger, but I am what some might call an "environmentalist" in the sense that I love our beautiful state and care about preserving and protecting it. Such as spending millions on fish steps for our migrant salmon populations to return to their native spawning grounds...

The visual test thing just kills me because it has zero affect on my emissions, it's just that some lawmaker labelled that part as a "pollutant" and that's the end of it. Probably passed by someone who doesn't even work on cars. Anywho, I don't want to derail this thread for the sake of our Supercharger users who live in the other states and do not share our woes.

 

[Dalandser]

Sup Y'all, glad to see Timmy's here [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I just bought this setup from a guy who only had it for 30k miles. I'm thinking of changing the oil, keeping the stock pulley and my stock air intake and going from there with add ons like the meth kit and so on. 7th injector is probably the route I'll go first and sell the injectors. I wish there was this thread on TW, but a 3.4's a 3.4...

TRD Supercharger for Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L engine, it has about 30,000 miles on it with no issues. All mounting hardware included along with dynamic belt tensioner and vacuum lines.

URD MAF/Timing Calibrator with R4 tuning software and serial cable.

AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge with Bosch 4.9 LSU wideband sensor.

1320 Performance Billet Idler Pulley and 2.1” power pulley (stock pulley included). $170

Snow Performance 210 Gas Stage 2 methanol injection kit. Gauge/controller is also the boost gauge.

2002 5VZ-FE 3.4L Tacoma air filter box with MAF sensor, 3” air tube, silicone elbow and stainless steel T-Bolt hose clamps. Short tube drilled and tapped for methanol injector fitting.

NIB Five O Motorsports flow matched 1UZ 310cc fuel injectors.

NIB URD 170° F thermostat.

TRD Boost gauge, white face.

Here's what it's going in:

Any suggestions - I've gotten some good ideas from the short time I've been watching this thread. Thanks :bluejump:

 

[Dalandser]

This one should work:

https://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/eo/D-425-13.pdf

It's more generic. I've never heard of a stock supercharger coming with a 2.215" pulley that only makes 6 PSI, it would definitely make 9-10. That EO above covers all years 95-03. But your average tech isn't going to know the difference between the 2.2 and 2.37 stock pulley.

Did you have to take that to a smog check to pass? I don't have to smog until next Jan, but it would be good to have everything just to not waste any time...

I wouldn't mind even putting my truck back to stock if I had to every 2 years, it would still be nothing compared to my current project lol

 

[gamefreakgc]

Sup Y'all, glad to see Timmy's here [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I just bought this setup from a guy who only had it for 30k miles. I'm thinking of changing the oil, keeping the stock pulley and my stock air intake and going from there with add ons like the meth kit and so on. 7th injector is probably the route I'll go first and sell the injectors. I wish there was this thread on TW, but a 3.4's a 3.4...

TRD Supercharger for Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L engine, it has about 30,000 miles on it with no issues. All mounting hardware included along with dynamic belt tensioner and vacuum lines.

URD MAF/Timing Calibrator with R4 tuning software and serial cable.

AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge with Bosch 4.9 LSU wideband sensor.

1320 Performance Billet Idler Pulley and 2.1” power pulley (stock pulley included). $170

Snow Performance 210 Gas Stage 2 methanol injection kit. Gauge/controller is also the boost gauge.

2002 5VZ-FE 3.4L Tacoma air filter box with MAF sensor, 3” air tube, silicone elbow and stainless steel T-Bolt hose clamps. Short tube drilled and tapped for methanol injector fitting.

NIB Five O Motorsports flow matched 1UZ 310cc fuel injectors.

NIB URD 170° F thermostat.

TRD Boost gauge, white face.

Here's what it's going in:

Any suggestions - I've gotten some good ideas from the short time I've been watching this thread. Thanks :bluejump:

Did you have to take that to a smog check to pass? I don't have to smog until next Jan, but it would be good to have everything just to not waste any time...

I wouldn't mind even putting my truck back to stock if I had to every 2 years, it would still be nothing compared to my current project lol

Ha! That's pretty much my exact setup I've had until last night, when I put the 2.0" pulley on. It's pretty sweet, you're going to want to put the 2.1" pulley on though and don't even bother with the stock pulley. It's a night and day difference!

I'd be willing to answer any specific questions to the setup, feel free to PM me or whatever.

Keep the 310cc injectors and tuning software. It's actually better than the 7th injector since you get direct flow to each injector (the 7th and water/meth do not evenly distribute to all cylinders). With the 2.1" pulley, the 310's are PERFECT for the engine, your fuel trims should basically be at 0 to -5. I love the control it gives while tuning rather than just trying to tune a single injector. Which brings me to my next comment...

The Snow Performance water/meth system. It's really hard to tune since it only comes on with a MAP sensor. Sometimes you'll hit near max boost sub-3000 RPM's and it'll really bog down your engine, even make it buck at times. If you are keeping the stock pulley on there, don't even install it since it won't be necessary. If you put the 2.1" pulley on it, have it start around 5 PSI (you'll need to play with it) and max at 11 PSI, that's with the 175cc/min injector, I think that's the #3 one. You do not want anything bigger than this since it's really hard to tune it. I'm making the assumption you'll be using the Boost Juice 50/50 mix here. You want just enough to get all the benefits but not too much water that it starts to inhibit combustion. The stage 3 kit is better since it reads injector duty cycle (read engine load) instead but oh well, hindsight is 20/20.

Did I mention you should put the 2.1" pulley on? Yeah, really put it on.

As far as the smog questions go, it's another vote for the 310's since the SMOG TECH CAN'T SEE THEM! It runs perfectly fine at idle, 15 MPH and 25 MPH for the test since the ECU keeps it stoich. Here's what will make you fail the visual based off your list:

• The URD calibrator if any of it is visible, tuck it away real good.
• Water/meth is an instant fail, it's only legal on some diesel trucks.
• Your intake, unless it's a brand name unit like AirAid or K&N with an approved EO, will fail. Keep your stock intake to swap in/out. Deckplate mod is also an instant fail.
• Some shops don't like wideband A/F ratio sensors, some have passed with one others have failed. I'm yet to have mine smogged with it on but come September I'll find out.
• If the 2.1" pulley is the red URD one, it might also fail. Easy to tell it's an aftermarket part, which no aftermarket pulleys are smog legal for the TRD supercharger.

I didn't answer your first question though. No, I did not need to bring it to pass smog since I have the original EO sticker in my engine bay but I did need a vacuum diagram. I used the one for a 4Runner 4WD, the vacuum diagrams are available in the TRD installation manual here:

https://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/miscinfo/TRD34LSCInstal.pdf

 

[Bijan]

NAPA part # for 170* thermostat?

 

[phattyduck]

The Snow Performance water/meth system. It's really hard to tune since it only comes on with a MAP sensor

Why not throw away that MAP sensor and wire the controller to MAF sensor voltage? Its a 0-5V signal also, and will work much better with the way the supercharger works... (MAP sensor meth control works well on turbo engines)

-Charlie

 

[Dalandser]

Ha! That's pretty much my exact setup I've had until last night, when I put the 2.0" pulley on. It's pretty sweet, you're going to want to put the 2.1" pulley on though and don't even bother with the stock pulley. It's a night and day difference!

I'd be willing to answer any specific questions to the setup, feel free to PM me or whatever.

Keep the 310cc injectors and tuning software. It's actually better than the 7th injector since you get direct flow to each injector (the 7th and water/meth do not evenly distribute to all cylinders). With the 2.1" pulley, the 310's are PERFECT for the engine, your fuel trims should basically be at 0 to -5. I love the control it gives while tuning rather than just trying to tune a single injector. Which brings me to my next comment...

The Snow Performance water/meth system. It's really hard to tune since it only comes on with a MAP sensor. Sometimes you'll hit near max boost sub-3000 RPM's and it'll really bog down your engine, even make it buck at times. If you are keeping the stock pulley on there, don't even install it since it won't be necessary. If you put the 2.1" pulley on it, have it start around 5 PSI (you'll need to play with it) and max at 11 PSI, that's with the 175cc/min injector, I think that's the #3 one. You do not want anything bigger than this since it's really hard to tune it. I'm making the assumption you'll be using the Boost Juice 50/50 mix here. You want just enough to get all the benefits but not too much water that it starts to inhibit combustion. The stage 3 kit is better since it reads injector duty cycle (read engine load) instead but oh well, hindsight is 20/20.

Did I mention you should put the 2.1" pulley on? Yeah, really put it on.

As far as the smog questions go, it's another vote for the 310's since the SMOG TECH CAN'T SEE THEM! It runs perfectly fine at idle, 15 MPH and 25 MPH for the test since the ECU keeps it stoich. Here's what will make you fail the visual based off your list:

• The URD calibrator if any of it is visible, tuck it away real good.
• Water/meth is an instant fail, it's only legal on some diesel trucks.
• Your intake, unless it's a brand name unit like AirAid or K&N with an approved EO, will fail. Keep your stock intake to swap in/out. Deckplate mod is also an instant fail.
• Some shops don't like wideband A/F ratio sensors, some have passed with one others have failed. I'm yet to have mine smogged with it on but come September I'll find out.
• If the 2.1" pulley is the red URD one, it might also fail. Easy to tell it's an aftermarket part, which no aftermarket pulleys are smog legal for the TRD supercharger.

I didn't answer your first question though. No, I did not need to bring it to pass smog since I have the original EO sticker in my engine bay but I did need a vacuum diagram. I used the one for a 4Runner 4WD, the vacuum diagrams are available in the TRD installation manual here:

https://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/miscinfo/TRD34LSCInstal.pdf

Thanks for the information. Someone who recently got one of these recommended the 7th injector saying that messing with the aft during tuning could hurt my cat. He mentioned that benefits of the 7th injector for a daily driven vehicle were that it only operates during open loop and I believe he said that it accounts for elevation better than a regular injector swap w/ tune. If that's true it would benefit me because this is my desert vehicle. If it weren't for the cooling properties of the meth system I may not even had considered it since I'd most likely be satisfied with the stock pulley just to overcome the frictional forces in the transmission to get what the na engine makes at the crank put to the wheels. I'm only running 33's atm and I'm putting in 4.56's w/ a 5 speed so it should move alright.

My biggest wants for this setup are a bit more power (I'm pretty satisfied w/ how hard my 2nd gen regular cab pulls with the 2.7 and a 5 speed 4.10's and 31's), reliability w/ no pinging / knocking / bogging like you mentioned, and to run cool / stay consistently powered from the sc not heating up hence the other reason for the meth (besides cooler operating engine temp).

I hear what you're saying about the snow kit, I paid about $3300 for everything so I'll use what I can for now, but long term there can be more mods to get to that power vs. reliability sweet spot.

I don't mind putting time into tuning the system, but I am a little concerned from people getting bad pinging and the prospect of having to tune on trips to the desert to account for elevation if that is actually a thing I would have to do w/ the larger injectors vs. the 7th injector. I've been working on this truck for a year so I don't mind putting in time, but I am concerned that I'll do something 'not good' or having a finicky system to the point it takes my mind of enjoying trips to the desert because of pinging etc.

I like messing around with computers and I like diagnostics to a degree. Based on my better description of what I want from the supercharger, do you have any different recommendations for me?

What point do I need to seriously consider adding a higher output fuel pump? Thanks for your advice!

 

[Hepar]

My biggest wants for this setup are a bit more power (I'm pretty satisfied w/ how hard my 2nd gen regular cab pulls with the 2.7 and a 5 speed 4.10's and 31's), reliability w/ no pinging / knocking / bogging like you mentioned, and to run cool / stay consistently powered from the sc not heating up hence the other reason for the meth (besides cooler operating engine temp).

If you're really just looking for a little added power, I'd start with just the SC and stock pulley (with other small changes like plugs and such). I've been 100% happy with that setup and have absolutely zero urge to add any more power. Love the simplicity of the setup as well as the minimal (i.e. zero) tuning needed when running it.

 

[Speedy]

Things may have changed since I SC'd mine 10 years or so ago, but back then the 7th injector from URD was the shizzle. For me it worked great on the 2.2 pulley for a lot of years until I just got bored and went with water/meth injection just for the hell of it and dropped to the 2.1 pulley.

If you want simple, easy to tune, set and forget, I'd do the URD 7th with MAF calibrator built in, tune it proper (which is easy since your only adding fuel in boost where you need it and can remove timing to avoid ping) and have fun. Mine made 240RWHP and 259RWTQ with just that. Adding the water/meth did make a big difference and allowed going to the 2.1 pulley as well which added more and I love it. Mine's the Cooling Mist setup. I have video of how it's installed/tuned on my YouTube channel if you wanna take a look. The post above about having to find the sweet spot to avoid bogging is accurate. Even though it's a progressive controller, mine's boost based, and with a roots blower it make all of the boost low in the RPMs. Going to something MAF or injector based would likely work better, but after some tweaking mine's dialed in.

Mine ran fine on the 2.2 and stock fuel pump. When I went to the 2.1 it put it at the edge and I do use the water/meth to supplement fueling.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the information. Someone who recently got one of these recommended the 7th injector saying that messing with the aft during tuning could hurt my cat. He mentioned that benefits of the 7th injector for a daily driven vehicle were that it only operates during open loop and I believe he said that it accounts for elevation better than a regular injector swap w/ tune. If that's true it would benefit me because this is my desert vehicle. If it weren't for the cooling properties of the meth system I may not even had considered it since I'd most likely be satisfied with the stock pulley just to overcome the frictional forces in the transmission to get what the na engine makes at the crank put to the wheels. I'm only running 33's atm and I'm putting in 4.56's w/ a 5 speed so it should move alright.

My biggest wants for this setup are a bit more power (I'm pretty satisfied w/ how hard my 2nd gen regular cab pulls with the 2.7 and a 5 speed 4.10's and 31's), reliability w/ no pinging / knocking / bogging like you mentioned, and to run cool / stay consistently powered from the sc not heating up hence the other reason for the meth (besides cooler operating engine temp).

I hear what you're saying about the snow kit, I paid about $3300 for everything so I'll use what I can for now, but long term there can be more mods to get to that power vs. reliability sweet spot.

I don't mind putting time into tuning the system, but I am a little concerned from people getting bad pinging and the prospect of having to tune on trips to the desert to account for elevation if that is actually a thing I would have to do w/ the larger injectors vs. the 7th injector. I've been working on this truck for a year so I don't mind putting in time, but I am concerned that I'll do something 'not good' or having a finicky system to the point it takes my mind of enjoying trips to the desert because of pinging etc.

I like messing around with computers and I like diagnostics to a degree. Based on my better description of what I want from the supercharger, do you have any different recommendations for me?

What point do I need to seriously consider adding a higher output fuel pump? Thanks for your advice!

Any tuning will hurt your cat. After 217k miles, mine has given up the ghost and it smells pretty awful, so when I have to get it smogged I know it's going to fail but at least we have the repair assistance program so I should get a discount.

The 7th injector will operate whenever you tell it to. If you do decide that route, I didn't see on your list the Oxygen sensor calibrator thingy that URD sells. Without it, you can only tune open loop reliably at WOT, pedal to the floor about 3500ish RPM and up. Everything else will have the stoich 14.7 A/F ratio. What that means is, you're going to most likely have ping under low RPM boost since even if you add fuel there, the stock ECU will pull it out immediately back to 14.7, when you really want more like 13.0 - 13.5 in those low boost situations. The O2 sensor skewing/tuning alters the signal to read "lean" and the ECU automatically richens the fuel mixture for you so it makes for very easy closed loop tuning. Plus you'll see a huge power bump in mid-throttle, it's amazing what a little extra fuel does! I was blown away on what a difference it made with closed loop tuning.

I had forgotten I put in a larger pump, it's a 210 lph. The 310's will need a larger pump, the 7th injector kit comes with a Walbro 190 lph, but it isn't 100% necessary. So there's that consideration too if you do keep the injectors there's one more part to get. Walbro's are not too pricey though.

You should not have to tune twice. At high elevation you will make less boost so if you set up your fuel map correctly it will never hit max boost where you have the most fuel added since you won't be at max PSI. It won't be perfect but it will be pretty close to it. This is also where O2 sensor tuning shines, since if your ECU adjusts automatically needing less fuel due to a less dense air charge, your tune adjusts with it. You cannot tune open loop or WOT situations this way though since the ECU does not look at O2 sensor readings at that point, you'll need to use the MAF readings or fuel injector pulse modifications.

What you have is more than 99% of 4Runner/Tacoma owners have. I would recommend getting your engine in, deciding on which fuel delivery system you want with the 2.1" pulley (7th injector or 310cc's and/or methanol) and go from there. If you are happy with the power and don't have excessive pinging with the 2.1" pulley, go out and enjoy it! If you are having issues or it's just not quite what you thought it would be then add O2/closed loop tuning ability.

For the water/meth, you could also bump down to the 100cc/min #2 injector. Snow Performance as well as Summit Racing sells the nozzles for $30, might be worth picking up a couple and experimenting on what your engine likes best. I was about to go down in size until I decided on the 2.0" pulley which it's perfect for it now. The 2.0" with closed loop tuning is absolutely AMAZING compared to the 2.1", it builds PSI so fast! I will be street tuning it this weekend to see how it performs at WOT, and if it'll blow up my engine

You know, if you want I could PM you my phone number. Typing these essays takes a while.

 

[Dalandser]

Thanks for all the helpful information everyone! I don't mind getting into tuning it more as I go, but as was mentioned I probably will start out with the stock pulley and no fuel mods which is also to make getting the engine running as simple as possible. It's the first time I supercharge an engine so I'd like to keep the learning curve as forgiving as possible. I've checked out a number of your build threads and videos and I appreciate all the helpful advice and information on them as well. The truck should be up and running by mid summer.

 

[Speedy]

Just be mindful of ping even with the stock pulley. It's not a fuel issue, it's a timing at low rpm issue. Mine pinged pretty bad on the stock pulley before I did the URD 7th allowing me to remove timing down low in the rpm range.

 

[Dalandser]

Just be mindful of ping even with the stock pulley. It's not a fuel issue, it's a timing at low rpm issue. Mine pinged pretty bad on the stock pulley before I did the URD 7th allowing me to remove timing down low in the rpm range.

Thanks [MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION] - I read your tuning method. I think I'll try that - is there an operating system that the tuning software works optimally or doesn't work with - the setup I bought came from a member on Tacomaworld who couldn't get the R4 software to run on his computer.

 

[Dalandser]

You know, if you want I could PM you my phone number. Typing these essays takes a while.

pm'd lol

 

[Speedy]

Thanks [MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION] - I read your tuning method. I think I'll try that - is there an operating system that the tuning software works optimally or doesn't work with - the setup I bought came from a member on Tacomaworld who couldn't get the R4 software to run on his computer.

It has worked fine for me up to Windows 7 which is what my tuning laptop is at present....It'd probably work with Windows 10 as well.

 

[anniesball72]

Iridium spark plug life?

What sort of useful life can I expect with the Denso Iridium spark plugs?

 

[Speedy]

I think I got 50k but they were fried and should a been changed at 40k.

 

[anniesball72]

Thanks Speedy!

I think I got 50k but they were fried and should a been changed at 40k.

Thanks, to be honest I'm surprised with the single electrode.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Hey guys, new to T4R.org. I recently acquired a gen2 supercharger and 7th injector for my 98 4runner. Only issue I am having right now is finding a wiring diagram for the 7th injector wiring to my ecm. I email URD for instructions but have yet to hear back. I have been reading through countless threads finding only 2000-2002 pin outs. If anybody could help me find the correct pin outs that would be much appreciated!

Vehicle:
98 4runner
v6
Auto
Canada spec, so.. Federal emission?