The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[gamefreakgc]

Hey guys, new to T4R.org. I recently acquired a gen2 supercharger and 7th injector for my 98 4runner. Only issue I am having right now is finding a wiring diagram for the 7th injector wiring to my ecm. I email URD for instructions but have yet to hear back. I have been reading through countless threads finding only 2000-2002 pin outs. If anybody could help me find the correct pin outs that would be much appreciated!

Vehicle:
98 4runner
v6
Auto
Canada spec, so.. Federal emission?

This might help!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/245751-1998-ecu-wiring-diagram-tis-site-gone.html

I was going to rent the wiring diagram but the site no longer works for me. A few people shared some pinouts on that thread, if you piece them together it should be everything you need for a 98.

 

[Bijan]

7th injector is in! I can't really feel a difference yet..

I live in Denver - so, high altitude....2.1" pulley, 170* thermostat, 2 step colder plugs, stock fuel pump.....anyone have any insight on how vital it is that I put the upgraded fuel pump in?

Currently no pinging or knocking to my knowledge...no CEL - runs fine....no smoke.

 

[White Stripe]

Sup Y'all, glad to see Timmy's here [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I just bought this setup from a guy who only had it for 30k miles. I'm thinking of changing the oil, keeping the stock pulley and my stock air intake and going from there with add ons like the meth kit and so on. 7th injector is probably the route I'll go first and sell the injectors. I wish there was this thread on TW, but a 3.4's a 3.4...

TRD Supercharger for Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L engine, it has about 30,000 miles on it with no issues. All mounting hardware included along with dynamic belt tensioner and vacuum lines.

URD MAF/Timing Calibrator with R4 tuning software and serial cable.

AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge with Bosch 4.9 LSU wideband sensor.

1320 Performance Billet Idler Pulley and 2.1” power pulley (stock pulley included). $170

Snow Performance 210 Gas Stage 2 methanol injection kit. Gauge/controller is also the boost gauge.

2002 5VZ-FE 3.4L Tacoma air filter box with MAF sensor, 3” air tube, silicone elbow and stainless steel T-Bolt hose clamps. Short tube drilled and tapped for methanol injector fitting.

NIB Five O Motorsports flow matched 1UZ 310cc fuel injectors.

NIB URD 170° F thermostat.

TRD Boost gauge, white face.

Here's what it's going in:

Any suggestions - I've gotten some good ideas from the short time I've been watching this thread. Thanks :bluejump:

Personally If I had to do it over, I would not install a TRD supercharger. I would just get a cxracing turbo kit, then you get headers, forced induction, and more efficient boost in one swoop. You will also have less chance of pinging since the turbo gives colder intake air.

 

[White Stripe]

7th injector is in! I can't really feel a difference yet..

I live in Denver - so, high altitude....2.1" pulley, 170* thermostat, 2 step colder plugs, stock fuel pump.....anyone have any insight on how vital it is that I put the upgraded fuel pump in?

Currently no pinging or knocking to my knowledge...no CEL - runs fine....no smoke.

I would install a afr gauge, that will tell u if your pump is supplying enough or if the engine is running lean.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Personally If I had to do it over, I would not install a TRD supercharger. I would just get a cxracing turbo kit, then you get headers, forced induction, and more efficient boost in one swoop. You will also have less chance of pinging since the turbo gives colder intake air.

Installing a turbo is way more involved that these TRD superchargers though. You can literally install them with nothing but hand tools and be on the road with the correct fuel trims in 6 hours. Can't beat that for bolt-on power.

 

[Speedy]

Installing a turbo is way more involved that these TRD superchargers though. You can literally install them with nothing but hand tools and be on the road with the correct fuel trims in 6 hours. Can't beat that for bolt-on power.

THIS!

I looked in to swapping over to a turbo and after reading all the tuning issues I decided to just keep the SC.

 

[White Stripe]

Installing a turbo is way more involved that these TRD superchargers though. You can literally install them with nothing but hand tools and be on the road with the correct fuel trims in 6 hours. Can't beat that for bolt-on power.

I agree it's more involved. The supercharger can be installed in half a day. The turbo would take a weekend if said person is a experienced wrencher. The nice thing about the turbo kit is you can slowly upgrade it and have way more options for power. One guy has gotten 420 at the wheels with his turbo 5vz with stock bottom end. Their is a video of him neck n neck with a Viper. I've pushed my TRD supercharger as far as I can. I could tune the afr's a little better, but that won't give a whole lot more. Looks like you have as well looking at your build thread except I've ported my supercharger and have gone to a 1.8 pulley, but never installed headers or exhaust like you because by the time I got the money for them I decided not to dump anymore money into it unless it was a turbo. Not saying turbo is a total waste, but I think hp/dollar the turbo will do u better. And the colder intake air will be better for the engine and be far less prone to pinging. I do enjoy people's looks when they hear a supercharger whine, they don't know what to think lol. Plugging the silencer ports in the compressor makes it about 4 times louder and people really freak out. I looked at your build thread, it's really nice. I think it's smart u went with pulley boys rather than urd. I'm getting out of the 5vz world, I need something with more towing capacity. So I guess I'll never get to turbo the 5vz unfortunately. But I don't think a mild turbo setup will be any more trouble than a supercharger except for install labor.

 

[Killer Squirrel]

Plugging the silencer ports in the compressor

Which ports are you referring to here? Something internal?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I agree it's more involved. The supercharger can be installed in half a day. The turbo would take a weekend if said person is a experienced wrencher. The nice thing about the turbo kit is you can slowly upgrade it and have way more options for power. One guy has gotten 420 at the wheels with his turbo 5vz with stock bottom end. Their is a video of him neck n neck with a Viper. I've pushed my TRD supercharger as far as I can. I could tune the afr's a little better, but that won't give a whole lot more. Looks like you have as well looking at your build thread except I've ported my supercharger and have gone to a 1.8 pulley, but never installed headers or exhaust like you because by the time I got the money for them I decided not to dump anymore money into it unless it was a turbo. Not saying turbo is a total waste, but I think hp/dollar the turbo will do u better. And the colder intake air will be better for the engine and be far less prone to pinging. I do enjoy people's looks when they hear a supercharger whine, they don't know what to think lol. Plugging the silencer ports in the compressor makes it about 4 times louder and people really freak out. I looked at your build thread, it's really nice. I think it's smart u went with pulley boys rather than urd. I'm getting out of the 5vz world, I need something with more towing capacity. So I guess I'll never get to turbo the 5vz unfortunately. But I don't think a mild turbo setup will be any more trouble than a supercharger except for install labor.

Wow, yeah you've more than surpassed the limits of what the TRD supercharger can do. The stock heads and cams do not flow enough air to warrant anything more than the 2.1" pulley though I think. I just finished tuning the 2.0" pulley and it only made 1 PSI more than the 2.1 in 3rd gear, and only 0.5 PSI more in 2nd gear! Not impressed at all plus it doesn't fit all that great, somehow it threw off my pulley nut!

A turbo is the way to go if you want the maximum possible amount of HP though, this M62 supercharger is just to small to put out extreme numbers.

How do you port this supercharger and was it worth it? Was it a local shop or a specialty supercharger place?

 

[Mzs14]

I'm looking into a Magnuson SC unit with the URD 7th kit for my 2000 with a manual transmission and I am at 528'0 elevation with frequent trips up to the mountains.

A couple of questions:

Any manual guys run the 2.1 with the 7th injector kit on a stock clutch on the base map and if so how did the clutch hold up?

Also, any advice on running the 2.1" vs. the 2.2" with the URD base map given my elevation? Road tuning might be in the future but I would like to "plug and play" if possible first.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm looking into a Magnuson SC unit with the URD 7th kit for my 2000 with a manual transmission and I am at 528'0 elevation with frequent trips up to the mountains.

A couple of questions:

Any manual guys run the 2.1 with the 7th injector kit on a stock clutch on the base map and if so how did the clutch hold up?

Also, any advice on running the 2.1" vs. the 2.2" with the URD base map given my elevation? Road tuning might be in the future but I would like to "plug and play" if possible first.

The 7th injector will provide enough fuel to have either the 2.1" or 2.2" pulley. The stock pulley is rated up to 7 PSI, the 2.2" pulley at 9-10 PSI, and the 2.1" at about 11 PSI, at sea level. You are a mile up so knock a couple PSI off those numbers, so for you the 2.2" is more like a stock pulley at sea level (meaning you probably don't even need more fuel but a tune is good to have) and the 2.1" will perform more like the 2.2" pulley.

If you do ever travel down to sea level after tuning it at elevation, just don't floor it and you'll be fine. My vote is the 2.1". If you need a tuning map/file, ask around if anyone has a setup like yours at elevation and they can share their tune with you. Gadget over at URD is very helpful as well in providing tuning maps, or hit URD up on facebook, he's active on there too.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Installing a turbo is way more involved that these TRD superchargers though. You can literally install them with nothing but hand tools and be on the road with the correct fuel trims in 6 hours. Can't beat that for bolt-on power.

^^^ This, I want to do a turbo build but my 4Runner is currently my daily so it was easier to throw the supercharger on. Which I just did last Saturday, supercharger and 7th injector.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Is the URD T fitting for the 7th injector special? The reason I ask is I purchased my 1st Gen supercharger and 7th used and it didn't come with the T fitting so I bought a NAPA one.

I had the the supercharger completely rebuilt and installed it 5000 miles ago.
I verified with Gadget the 7th is the correct part number for my model year.

When I run R4 controller software I only see 5.5-6psi boost with a 2.2 pulley. That seems low and I'm experiencing knock from 2-3000 RPM with moderate to WOT in 2nd 3rd and 4rth gear. I'm trying to tune it but am wondering if the T is wrong and I'm making more boost than the 7th thinks......

Which would throw my whole tune off.

2002 4Runner, with manual transmission swap ( to explain the gear callouts )

Anybody figure out why he's seeing 5.5-6psi with a 2.2 pulley? I just installed a Gen2 supercharger with 2.2 pulley and 7th injector and cannot for the life of me get past 5psi. And I'm only at 200' above sea level. Triple checked vacuum lines and smoke tested (found check valve under throttle body leaking, installed clamps. No more leaking but still only 5psi!)

 

[gamefreakgc]

Anybody figure out why he's seeing 5.5-6psi with a 2.2 pulley? I just installed a Gen2 supercharger with 2.2 pulley and 7th injector and cannot for the life of me get past 5psi. And I'm only at 200' above sea level. Triple checked vacuum lines and smoke tested (found check valve under throttle body leaking, installed clamps. No more leaking but still only 5psi!)

Do you have the dynamic tensioner or the static tensioner? The static tensioner, which is a plate that is installed that does not move, is known to cause belt slippage. If you installed a used belt I suggest swapping it out even if you have the dynamic tensioner because it may be too stretched out.

Also remove the belt off the supercharger pulley and clean the ribs of the pulley with rubbing alcohol or another grease removing solvent (rubbing alcohol is best & cheap though since it evaporates fast). You could also try a can of spray on belt conditioner, I just used some to eliminate some belt squeal I was having at cold temperatures and it worked well. That will completely eliminate belt slippage all together.

It's only one of three things: 1. You have a boost or vacuum leak, 2. The belt is slipping or 3. You live at like 8000 ft elevation.

 

[marcus clarkus]

I've been wanting one of these for awhile and have started reading up on them. I found one on craiglist that I'm tempted to buy. I'm driving a 1999 with a manual transmission, 5VZ is currently at 225k miles. I'll definitely do compression test before purchasing.

Info:
$1500
1st gen TRD supercharger
90,000 miles on it
He says he has everything necessary to install it - do you see anything missing in this pic?




I'm thinking I should probably rebuild the whole thing before installing it, so that's another $300 or so in part and tools. Coating rotors and spur gears another $150. I don't see a dynamic tensioner, so that's another $350. Total comes to $2300, plus another $1000 if I add a 7th injector and boost gauge.

What are you thoughts? And what should I check for before I purchase it -- would I have to drain the oil and pull the thing apart to inspect it, and is that even worth it to do?

Thanks

 

[pygmy warrior]

I wouldn't to put that much into a used one. You can buy a brand new one for under $3000. Plus, you know there will be unforeseen problems and items missing.
Auto anything has them on sale now for $2845 with free shipping.

 

[White Stripe]

Which ports are you referring to here? Something internal?

If u look in post 6 here u will see a typical example of a superchargers silencer holes on each side of the compressor outlet. https://z22se.co.uk/threads/supercharger-silencer-holes.15909/

If these silencer ports are plugged, the supercharger acoustics are no longer baffled. Basically the silencer holes allow some air to bounce back into the compressor and muffle the whine. If these ports are plugged, the supercharger whine becomes louder. If u use the stock air box and intake tube, they also muffle the supercharger whine quite a bit. But if u take a TRD supercharger (u can only do it with a older Grey supercharger because u can take the compressor apart separately on the Grey ones)plug the silencer ports, and run a typical cold air intake, the supercharger whine is crazy loud. With the hood open its ear piercing. With the hood closed it sounds like demons are being murdered in the engine compartment under heavy acceleration. People on the side of the street all turn their head and wonder what the heck just drove by. I highly recommend it if u like having fun. The nice thing is that cruising down the highway it's not really loud unless your climbing Hills or accelerating hard.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Do you have the dynamic tensioner or the static tensioner? The static tensioner, which is a plate that is installed that does not move, is known to cause belt slippage. If you installed a used belt I suggest swapping it out even if you have the dynamic tensioner because it may be too stretched out.

Also remove the belt off the supercharger pulley and clean the ribs of the pulley with rubbing alcohol or another grease removing solvent (rubbing alcohol is best & cheap though since it evaporates fast). You could also try a can of spray on belt conditioner, I just used some to eliminate some belt squeal I was having at cold temperatures and it worked well. That will completely eliminate belt slippage all together.

It's only one of three things: 1. You have a boost or vacuum leak, 2. The belt is slipping or 3. You live at like 8000 ft elevation.

Well, I've smoke tested the system (good). I have brake cleaned to check for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. I will clean the pulley, the belt is brand new with a dynamic tensioner. My elevation is like 200 feet lol

 

[Sean-Himself]

I've been wanting one of these for awhile and have started reading up on them. I found one on craiglist that I'm tempted to buy. I'm driving a 1999 with a manual transmission, 5VZ is currently at 225k miles. I'll definitely do compression test before purchasing.

Info:
$1500
1st gen TRD supercharger
90,000 miles on it
He says he has everything necessary to install it - do you see anything missing in this pic?




I'm thinking I should probably rebuild the whole thing before installing it, so that's another $300 or so in part and tools. Coating rotors and spur gears another $150. I don't see a dynamic tensioner, so that's another $350. Total comes to $2300, plus another $1000 if I add a 7th injector and boost gauge.

What are you thoughts? And what should I check for before I purchase it -- would I have to drain the oil and pull the thing apart to inspect it, and is that even worth it to do?

Thanks

After a rebuild, I think that would be too much money into the setup for what it is. You can find a Gen2 supercharger and dynamic tensioner for that price. I just bought my Gen2, 2.2 pulley and 7th injector in good condition for 2600. Just purchased new gaskets, belt and oil. But that is just my 2 cents :tea:

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've been wanting one of these for awhile and have started reading up on them. I found one on craiglist that I'm tempted to buy. I'm driving a 1999 with a manual transmission, 5VZ is currently at 225k miles. I'll definitely do compression test before purchasing.

Info:
$1500
1st gen TRD supercharger
90,000 miles on it
He says he has everything necessary to install it - do you see anything missing in this pic?




I'm thinking I should probably rebuild the whole thing before installing it, so that's another $300 or so in part and tools. Coating rotors and spur gears another $150. I don't see a dynamic tensioner, so that's another $350. Total comes to $2300, plus another $1000 if I add a 7th injector and boost gauge.

What are you thoughts? And what should I check for before I purchase it -- would I have to drain the oil and pull the thing apart to inspect it, and is that even worth it to do?

Thanks

You don't absolutely need a rebuild, often it just needs an oil change. If you go back far enough in this thread you'll rarely hear of any superchargers failing over time. They just get noisy. Same goes with coating the rotors, you don't need to do it. However, a dynamic tensioner will save a lot of headache.

I agree with the thoughts above, if you are looking to get a tip-tip shape supercharger, just buy new. That way you know everything is a good as gets. If you are looking for Boost on a Budget (I should start a TV show!) buy it as-is, install as-is and go enjoy it!