The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Clumsy me]

Im back with more issues. I am hoping one day I can get this thing running right

Below is a video of what the car sounds like when in drive and the AC on. Once I begin to accelerate the sounds dissipates.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL-ih37fTVQ&feature=youtu.be

Next is a video of the car in drive with the AC off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt0YDF3RPAk&feature=youtu.be

I have already replaced the oil in the nose and replaced a coupler. I am also feelings some vibrations while at idle.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Im back with more issues. I am hoping one day I can get this thing running right

Below is a video of what the car sounds like when in drive and the AC on. Once I begin to accelerate the sounds dissipates.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL-ih37fTVQ&feature=youtu.be

Next is a video of the car in drive with the AC off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt0YDF3RPAk&feature=youtu.be

I have already replaced the oil in the nose and replaced a coupler. I am also feelings some vibrations while at idle.

Time for a full rebuild. Bearings are most likely shot, allowing play in the rotors.

 

[Clumsy me]

Time for a full rebuild. Bearings are most likely shot, allowing play in the rotors.

While it is not what I really wanted to hear I guess that is where I am headed. I will probably pull the SC off and reinstall the stock intake so I have a car to drive while I order parts and rebuild it.

Time to start really doing research on parts.....

 

[gamefreakgc]

While it is not what I really wanted to hear I guess that is where I am headed. I will probably pull the SC off and reinstall the stock intake so I have a car to drive while I order parts and rebuild it.

Time to start really doing research on parts.....

You got the charger fairly cheap right? Jon Bond Performance does rebuilds in the $700 range, and I think Stiegemeier does as well, including porting the supercharger if you're into that (you will need fuel mods though).

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_15

Stiegemeier Porting Service ? Supercharger Rebuild and Repair

Otherwise there' a great thread on the first page on here that outlines how to do a full rebuild - without a press.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Im back with more issues. I am hoping one day I can get this thing running right

Below is a video of what the car sounds like when in drive and the AC on. Once I begin to accelerate the sounds dissipates.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL-ih37fTVQ&feature=youtu.be

Next is a video of the car in drive with the AC off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt0YDF3RPAk&feature=youtu.be

I have already replaced the oil in the nose and replaced a coupler. I am also feelings some vibrations while at idle.

Before you do a full rebuild, check your pulley. Mine sounded exactly the same, and it was just an egged out pulley keyslot. You’ll need a new pulley, and check the woodruff key is in good condition. If their is no play, then yes, you may need a rebuild.

 

[Clumsy me]

You got the charger fairly cheap right? Jon Bond Performance does rebuilds in the $700 range, and I think Stiegemeier does as well, including porting the supercharger if you're into that (you will need fuel mods though).

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_15

Stiegemeier Porting Service ? Supercharger Rebuild and Repair

Otherwise there' a great thread on the first page on here that outlines how to do a full rebuild - without a press.

I am a cheap bastard and am rather handy. I looked through the rebuild threads and I have luckily have access to a full service aviation maintenance facility so I dont think it will be too much of a challenge for me/ the guys in the shop.

Before you do a full rebuild, check your pulley. Mine sounded exactly the same, and it was just an egged out pulley keyslot. You’ll need a new pulley, and check the woodruff key is in good condition. If their is no play, then yes, you may need a rebuild.

Do you have more details about this?! I replaced the coupler but still have quite a bit of play in the nose cone.

I have already pulled the charger so if there is something I can do to test this please let me know.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Too much pressure/boost. Personally only seen it on older/used setup's versus the new ones. Happened recently on a friends setup ended up getting O-rings he had already new and fixed his blow by/leak issue.

Did you also the by-pass valve right direction? Just item's i've seen from personal experience and having to fix my own mistakes.

You must be referring to the 1st gen supercharger? I have a second gen, that's probably why I wasn't understanding lol

 

[Sean-Himself]

Can anybody shine some light on what to look for if I were to disassemble my 2nd gen supercharger to investigate a low boost issue? The only thing I can think of is too much rotor clearance? How is that adjusted if the rotors just sit in bearings? Are you able to see the butterfly valve for the bypass?

 

[lhsoulrebel]

I am a cheap bastard and am rather handy. I looked through the rebuild threads and I have luckily have access to a full service aviation maintenance facility so I dont think it will be too much of a challenge for me/ the guys in the shop.



Do you have more details about this?! I replaced the coupler but still have quite a bit of play in the nose cone.

I have already pulled the charger so if there is something I can do to test this please let me know.

Sounds just like my situation. Ok, so you’ll need to take off the pulley and look closely at the key slot in the pulley and the condition of the woodruff key in the shaft. In my case the pulley was “egged out” a bit. Only takes a tiny fraction of an inch of play to make them very noisy. If that it the case, get a new pulley, and a new woodruff key. When tightening make sure you use a chamfered nut so you can properly tighten down the pulley on the shaft. Good luck!

 

[Clumsy me]

Sounds just like my situation. Ok, so you’ll need to take off the pulley and look closely at the key slot in the pulley and the condition of the woodruff key in the shaft. In my case the pulley was “egged out” a bit. Only takes a tiny fraction of an inch of play to make them very noisy. If that it the case, get a new pulley, and a new woodruff key. When tightening make sure you use a chamfered nut so you can properly tighten down the pulley on the shaft. Good luck!

So this is how much play the nose has after I installed the new coupler.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u1jd0afqno

So confirmed that the pulley and woodruff key were ****ed and super sloppy. Now I am shopping for a new key but does anyone have a stock pulley they would be willing to sell me?

 

[lhsoulrebel]

So this is how much play the nose has after I installed the new coupler.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u1jd0afqno

So confirmed that the pulley and woodruff key were ****ed and super sloppy. Now I am shopping for a new key but does anyone have a stock pulley they would be willing to sell me?

Glad I could help. I found a new woodruff key at ace hardware, as for a stock pulley, no luck for me. I had to order a performance pulley.

 

[Clumsy me]

Glad I could help. I found a new woodruff key at ace hardware, as for a stock pulley, no luck for me. I had to order a performance pulley.

Thank you for the help. I got a new key but in looking for a new pulley I found a company called Pulley Boys. Can anyone chime in about their product?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thank you for the help. I got a new key but in looking for a new pulley I found a company called Pulley Boys. Can anyone chime in about their product?

I bought a 2.0" pulley from them. Pulley was fine, but didn't press all the way on and was too small to remove with a pulley puller. Those problems might be unique to the smaller pulleys though. 2.0" is very, very small.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Thank you for the help. I got a new key but in looking for a new pulley I found a company called Pulley Boys. Can anyone chime in about their product?

It’s ok. The UrD pulleys are better. I’ve used both and can say with out a doubt that the urd is better made and has way less slipping.

 

[Clumsy me]

I bought a 2.0" pulley from them. Pulley was fine, but didn't press all the way on and was too small to remove with a pulley puller. Those problems might be unique to the smaller pulleys though. 2.0" is very, very small.

It’s ok. The UrD pulleys are better. I’ve used both and can say with out a doubt that the urd is better made and has way less slipping.

Thanks for the input guys. I would love to go with a URD one but they dont make the stock size. Pulley boys was the only place I found one even close to stock size. If anyone knows where I can buy a stock size pulley that would be amazing.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the input guys. I would love to go with a URD one but they dont make the stock size. Pulley boys was the only place I found one even close to stock size. If anyone knows where I can buy a stock size pulley that would be amazing.

If you buy a nose cone kit for a black 4th gen charger it comes with a stock pulley. I should have saved the old one I took off a few years back.

Anyway, they are getting cheaper now that Magnussen started making them again.

 

[Clumsy me]

If you buy a nose cone kit for a black 4th gen charger it comes with a stock pulley. I should have saved the old one I took off a few years back.

Anyway, they are getting cheaper now that Magnussen started making them again.

It feels weird buying a whole nose cone just for the pulley. I might try and call Magnussen and see if I can buy just a pulley from them.

 

[afg10000]

Hey, folks - Was wondering if you guys could help refresh my memory? I need to do plug wires so I'm gonna throw some fresh plugs in as well. It's been quite a few years since I installed my SC and 7th injector kit. Is it the Denso IK22's (#5310) that go with that kit? I seem to recall that number. Doesn't specify on Gadget's site. Also, I seem to remember some issues gapping them things. I think we broke one trying to gap them. Any advice would be great.
thanks,
Andy

 

[Clumsy me]

Hey, folks - Was wondering if you guys could help refresh my memory? I need to do plug wires so I'm gonna throw some fresh plugs in as well. It's been quite a few years since I installed my SC and 7th injector kit. Is it the Denso IK22's (#5310) that go with that kit? I seem to recall that number. Doesn't specify on Gadget's site. Also, I seem to remember some issues gapping them things. I think we broke one trying to gap them. Any advice would be great.
thanks,
Andy

Andy,

I am using IK22's. I dont have the 7th injector but I believe those are correct either way.

 

[calicojax]

Gap is .35