The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Ghosty]

I've got a 2g SC kit that was purchased with supposedly only 300 miles on it. Looks almost new actually, hard to believe it was ever installed. Has all the parts, plus I bought a 2.1" pulley and the dynamic tensioner.

Only caveat is it's been static in a box, in storage for almost 10 years. Would you guys do the nosedrive rebuild, seals, and GM oil change kit on it? Or just throw it on as is? $75 is no biggie, but pressing bearings might be.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've got a (gray) 1g SC kit that was purchased with supposedly only 300 miles on it. Looks almost new actually, hard to believe it was ever installed. Has all the parts, plus I bought a 2.1" pulley and the dynamic tensioner.

Only caveat is it's been static in a box, in storage for almost 10 years. Would you guys do the nosedrive rebuild, seals, and GM oil change kit on it? Or just throw it on as is? $75 is no biggie, but pressing bearings might be.

With a 1st gen and how labor intensive a nose cone rebuild is, personally I wouldn't. It won't blow up on you but if it has excessive noise it'll tell if you if it need a rebuild. However, I'd pretty much assume it's going to need more oil.

Do you plan on adding a fuel management system like the 7th injector? The 2.1" pulley builds too much boost and heat to to run on its own with the stock fuel system. I accidentally logged half a WOT run with no fuel added and was at about 16.5 AFR's. That's like melt your spark plugs and pistons kind of lean.

 

[Ghosty]

Do you plan on adding a fuel management system like the 7th injector? The 2.1" pulley builds too much boost and heat to to run on its own with the stock fuel system. I accidentally logged half a WOT run with no fuel added and was at about 16.5 AFR's. That's like melt your spark plugs and pistons kind of lean.

I don't see any oil leaked out, but I hear what you're saying. I'd be especially concerned with any seals.

I'm actually at a mile high, 20+% less HP than at sea-level, so people are running 2.2 & 2.1 pulleys with only premium gas, although that leaves no headroom for A/F ratio. If I decide to upgrade the fuel, I have flowmatched bigger Lexus SC (2JZ non-turbo?) injectors and a Apex'i S-AFC fuel controller w/ pigtail connector. I also have Derek AnArKey's meth injection kit lying around if I wanna go that route, lol. Options...

This is the nose rebuild kit I was looking at, look kosher? Seems like overkill for a "new-ish" SC, heh.:

fits Toyota 3.4L 5VZFE TRD Eaton Supercharger Nosedrive Rebuild Kit | eBay
.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I don't see any oil leaked out, but I hear what you're saying. I'd be especially concerned with any seals.

I'm actually at a mile high, 20+% less HP than at sea-level, so people are running 2.2 & 2.1 pulleys with only premium gas, although that leaves no headroom for A/F ratio. If I decide to upgrade the fuel, I have flowmatched bigger Lexus SC (2JZ non-turbo?) injectors and a Apex'i S-AFC fuel controller w/ pigtail connector. I also have Derek AnArKey's meth injection kit lying around if I wanna go that route, lol. Options...

This is the nose rebuild kit I was looking at, look kosher? Seems like overkill for a "new-ish" SC, heh.:

fits Toyota 3.4L 5VZFE TRD Eaton Supercharger Nosedrive Rebuild Kit | eBay
.

no need to rebuild the nose cone but if you think you do want to it is not hard at all. I would simply empty the oil from the nose cone and replace it with fresh. If you are brave enough then pull the nose cone off and mod it so you can change the oil in the future without pulling the whole supercharger off.

like this:
1st Gen Supercharger nose cone Rebuild and Mod

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't see any oil leaked out, but I hear what you're saying. I'd be especially concerned with any seals.

I'm actually at a mile high, 20+% less HP than at sea-level, so people are running 2.2 & 2.1 pulleys with only premium gas, although that leaves no headroom for A/F ratio. If I decide to upgrade the fuel, I have flowmatched bigger Lexus SC (2JZ non-turbo?) injectors and a Apex'i S-AFC fuel controller w/ pigtail connector. I also have Derek AnArKey's meth injection kit lying around if I wanna go that route, lol. Options...

This is the nose rebuild kit I was looking at, look kosher? Seems like overkill for a "new-ish" SC, heh.:

fits Toyota 3.4L 5VZFE TRD Eaton Supercharger Nosedrive Rebuild Kit | eBay
.

I suppose CO is isolated enough that you don't have to worry about driving to sea level huh? CA is so unique since I live at sea level but if I drive east 1 hour I'm at 5,000 ft lol. Sounds like you have the fuel options covered pretty well. However, I will say that a stock supercharger at WOT runs a little lean, so those bigger injectors would be cheap insurance with the 2.1" if you know what I mean.

 

[Ghosty]

While doing the install, I assume this is the best time to swap in the injectors, while intake, etc. parts are off.

I have the "brown top?" 23250-46030 Lexus SC300 injectors. Do I need special clips or anything, or do they swap with the factory stockers straight across?

These are supposedly 305cc. At a mile high, I'm thinking the factory ECU should read the richer A/F and adequately compensate the mix, until I get the S-AFC spliced in to fine-tune. Or is it gonna run like crap, erratic/rough or high idle, pig rich, etc.?

Worried about how it will run before I get the controller in. A little rich is fine, since it's only temporary. I just expect some black smoke at WOT, heh. Looks like Gadget tested the stockers at 238c which yields approx. 1428cc total. My brownies yield 1830, about 400cc more. So at WOT, probably fine, but just not the most efficient power-wise, until I get the S-AFC going. Also assume stock fuel pump for now.

 

[gamefreakgc]

While doing the install, I assume this is the best time to swap in the injectors, while intake, etc. parts are off.

I have the "brown top?" 23250-46030 Lexus SC300 injectors. Do I need special clips or anything, or do they swap with the factory stockers straight across?

These are supposedly 305cc. At a mile high, I'm thinking the factory ECU should read the richer A/F and adequately compensate the mix, until I get the S-AFC spliced in to fine-tune. Or is it gonna run like crap, erratic/rough or high idle, pig rich, etc.?

Worried about how it will run before I get the controller in. A little rich is fine, since it's only temporary. I just expect some black smoke at WOT, heh. Looks like Gadget tested the stockers at 238c which yields approx. 1428cc total. My brownies yield 1830, about 400cc more. So at WOT, probably fine, but just not the most efficient power-wise, until I get the S-AFC going. Also assume stock fuel pump for now.

Those are the injectors I run, exact same part #'s. They are pretty much drop in, but you'll want the large "donut" o-ring from the Lexus injectors and new o-rings for Toyota 4Runner injectors for the other 3. There's 4 o-rings/bushings in total per injector. It's a little bit of touch-and-go with the rail since these injectors are just a tad bit shorter but just go slow, rotate the injectors to ensure they are not binding and stay smooth and take your time.

The stock ECU will be able to adjust for the extra fuel but it will take a couple of days of driving before it does so don't freak out at first. If you pull the EFI fuse in the engine bay after putting in the injectors/supercharger it will adjust much quicker. I've taken my 4Runner up to the mountains over 7500 ft and it compensates just fine for fuel. You are right though, if you are going to swap injectors do it when the supercharger is out since the injectors are completely uncovered and all you have to do is pull the fuel rail. A tip with the fuel pressure: take off the gas cap the night before and the lines will de-pressurize so you don't have fuel spraying in your face.

 

[Ghosty]

Thanks for the tips Jerod! Not sure why I thought it was a 1st Gen, but it's actually a (black) 2nd gen SC, so that's cool. The injectors were fully cleaned and had new o-rings already. I had an injector service shop here in Denver flowbench them awhile back, just found the box where I wrote down the flow results. They're all within 5%, between 305cc and 321cc. Four are 305 - 308, 1 is 318, 1 is 321.

The box of hardware actually had a couple more bolts than listed on the parts sheet from the Magnuson install manual, so I think I've got a full kit. We'll see. I'll report back.

Yeah definitely will reset the ECU!

 

[dogbreath650]

I'm sure the answer is buried in this thread but I searched and couldn't come up with what I need.

My 1st gen SC is noisy, which I can live with understanding that's just the way they are. My concern is that looking at the belt and nose pulley at idle, the belt/pulley is moving in and out about 1/4 inch. It quiets down and smooths out at increased RPM it's just that in/out motion of the pulley at idle that has me concerned - how much is too much? It has 170K miles and to the best of my knowledge the SC has never been rebuilt. I planned on rebuilding it this summer (maybe another 1000 miles) but now I'm concerned that I shouldn't let it go that long. What do you think? Thanks..

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the tips Jerod! Not sure why I thought it was a 1st Gen, but it's actually a (black) 2nd gen SC, so that's cool. The injectors were fully cleaned and had new o-rings already. I had an injector service shop here in Denver flowbench them awhile back, just found the box where I wrote down the flow results. They're all within 5%, between 305cc and 321cc. Four are 305 - 308, 1 is 318, 1 is 321.

The box of hardware actually had a couple more bolts than listed on the parts sheet from the Magnuson install manual, so I think I've got a full kit. We'll see. I'll report back.

Yeah definitely will reset the ECU!

Wow, that's a lot of variance though! I had another vehicle's injectors rebuilt once and they were within 5 cc's of each other. The rebuilder said to put the higher flowing injectors in the hottest cylinders to help fight pinging, so for a V6 that's the middle cylinder. I would suggest doing the same for your 318 and 321 cc injectors, if the shop didn't recommend that already.

Your black supercharger should be good then, don't worry about a rebuild. When do you plan on installing it?

 

[hungwin jza80]

Hey guys, what's the going price for a BNIB TRD Supercharger Kit (Part Number: PTR29-89020)? Thanks!!!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey guys, what's the going price for a BNIB TRD Supercharger Kit (Part Number: PTR29-89020)? Thanks!!!

This much: MAGNUSONPRODUCTS.COM

Only difference between that and the TRD ones from Toyota is the TRD logo.

 

[eddielasvegas]

If you are in no hurry, these folks had a BF/CM sale that was $300 off their normal price.

I came close to pulling the trigger but decided to wait.


Eddie

This much: MAGNUSONPRODUCTS.COM

Only difference between that and the TRD ones from Toyota is the TRD logo.

 

[benjamin247]

is installing a new intake manifold gasket needed on a new used motor

Planning on installing a 1st gen sc on my 1999 V6 5-speed. I just bought this 4runner last week and the previous owner replaced the engine last month with a new used engine - service record states it is a new used 40-60k engine from Japan.

Since this is a newish engine, would the intake manifold gasket still need to be replaced?

 

[Hepar]

Planning on installing a 1st gen sc on my 1999 V6 5-speed. I just bought this 4runner last week and the previous owner replaced the engine last month with a new used engine - service record states it is a new used 40-60k engine from Japan.

Since this is a newish engine, would the intake manifold gasket still need to be replaced?

You could reuse it, but the gasket is so cheap that it’s silly not to replace it.

 

[nchacon1984]

Hey guys, just replaced my knock sensors and harness. I was getting knock sensor in bank 1 before replacing them and now bank 1 is clear but Im getting bank 2 now after installation. Everything is from Toyota.

What are the chances that the sensor in bank 2 is bad or could something else be the culprit? I seen people swap out the ecu which doesn't really make sense to me or bypass it to trigger the sensors.

I'm leaning towards a bad sensor.

 

[binqker]

Hey Guys,

Can anybody help me out where to purchase a new or a rebuild TRD - Eaton M62 (1st Gen) nose drive? I've searched on Ebay, Craigslist, Websites, and Forums. non to be found. Pls let me know.

Thanks,
-John

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey Guys,

Can anybody help me out where to purchase a new or a rebuild TRD - Eaton M62 (1st Gen) nose drive? I've searched on Ebay, Craigslist, Websites, and Forums. non to be found. Pls let me know.

Thanks,
-John

I'm not sure there's any that exist. If you want to order parts to rebuild it, Rolling Performance sells them but I've never heard of just a 1st gen nose drive like the black 2nd (4th) gen does.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Hey Guys,

Can anybody help me out where to purchase a new or a rebuild TRD - Eaton M62 (1st Gen) nose drive? I've searched on Ebay, Craigslist, Websites, and Forums. non to be found. Pls let me know.

Thanks,
-John

John,

What is wrong with yours? They are easy to rebuild, or is yours damaged beyond a rebuild?

 

[keeperofgoal]

getting a 2gen blower comes with 7th injector 2.2 pulley and dynamic tensioner for 1400$ cdn (1050$ usd). guy says there is 55,000kms (34k miles) on it and that it was on his tacoma when he bought it and took it off thats all he knows. i cannot view it in person it will be shipped cross country to me. seems good to me and was about the just send the dough but just wanted to get someones opinion if possible please and thank you.

this is the ad:

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and...it/1421952411?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true