The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[4Reak Show]

I'm going to be installing a AEM wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge. Can someone please tell me the correct position to have the exhaust shop weld in the bung for the sensor? Like, where exactly would it go in this picture?

I'm assuming between the converter (#5 in the pic) and the catalytic converter (#6 in the pic). Is that correct?



Thanks.

The AEM instructions should tell you distance from collector, but memory tells me it's within 12 or 18" from that flange. That being said, you do NOT want it after a cat. Totally defeats it's purpose. You want a reading that is untainted, directly after the exhaust leaves the engine, sampling all cyclinders.

So in this spot is best in my opinion

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HuntG212]

I don’t post much, mostly read to gather information. But I thought I would give back and share what I have found in my experience.

I’ve had my supercharger about 4 years now. Had ping from the beginning. But as someone mentioned before, you can learn how to drive around it. First I started off with no fuel mods at all.

I wanted more power so I decided to drop down to a 2.1 pulley. Along with that I went with the AEM meth kit. Still had ping. Added the URD O2 calibrator. Still had ping. Don’t get me wrong, both helped, but did not solve my issues.

Couple months ago my number 6 injector went out. Put it in the shop to get it fixed along with an oil leak. Just happened to come across a thread about injectors. It was related to the Toyota 305cc injectors along with the supercharger. People seemed to have good experiences with them, but not many, compared to the 7th injector, had made the swap. Most of the information on them has been on Gadgets site for years and years, but I never paid it any attention.

I did the swap with a set purchased off amazon, and they have been incredible. I have almost zero ping. I can hardly get it to ping if I’m trying. I’m running them alone. No meth and no 02 calibrator and stock fuel pump and they work with the factory ECU. I do plan to hook the calibrator back up to make the transition to open loop sooner. Here’s what I bought.

Toyota part number 23250-46030

Re-Manufactured OEM Reman... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TZFMK3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just throwing this out there as another option that hardly gets talked about and has worked great for me.

 

[Black798]

Question for those of you running the aftermarket tuning options on these motors. I just supercharged my truck yesterday, stock pulley, 2 step colder plugs with new wires, and 91 octane of course. Surprise surprise it pings like a mofo even at 6k feet. I was pretty much expecting it but wasn't it expecting it to be this bad. Pretty much anytime I even think about touching the gas climbing a hill it sounds like a 90s ford powerstroke haha. I think this is largely due to the fact the truck is running 20 degrees of timing advance when it starts pinging and not backing off since its below 3k RPMS and the ECU isnt referencing the knock sensors.

I also can feel it hesitating in different areas of the RPM band when running at WOT, I assume this is it running lean, wont know for sure until I get my Boost, EGT, and AFR gauges installed in the next couple of weeks.

Ive been looking at the different tuning options for the truck and It seems my two main options are URD 7th injector kit or the AEM FIC. The URD kit is nice because its proven, all plug and play, but its expensive and the tuning seems sort of limited especially in the respect you have to power cycle the truck to update the tune. That would be a major pain in the ass on a longer trip if Im trying to fine tune the everything. The AEM fixes those two problems being much cheaper and allowing tuning on the fly. What is unclear to me though is with the AEM unit what do people do for additional fueling? Larger injectors or is the AEM unit able to control a 7th injector option I haven't seen? I dont want to run Meth Injection because of simplicity and I dont have room for another tank of stuff on board. Also in terms of tuning which one is easier? Im not super concerned about this as Im more interested in the most cost effective way to make the truck run right and leave me headroom to run a 2.2 or 2.1" pulley but it all plays into what route I go because I dont want to be doing things twice

 

[Bandit Runner]

The AEM instructions should tell you distance from collector, but memory tells me it's within 12 or 18" from that flange. That being said, you do NOT want it after a cat. Totally defeats it's purpose. You want a reading that is untainted, directly after the exhaust leaves the engine, sampling all cyclinders.

So in this spot is best in my opinion

k

Thank you so much! I guess I didn't consider the first converter (#5) to be "catalytic", just the second one.

The AEM instructions say this:
"Mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port."

and this:
"For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted before catalytic converters"

Thanks again.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the feedback. Just seems crazy to spend that type of money including the 7th injector to help mitigate pinging, only to still have to drive tentatively and cautiously. Was really hoping for a low boost/low risk solution to my power problems but I’m not interested writing posts on the T4R Supercharger thread every Friday trying to troubleshoot my issues like many of you have done. I’m sure many people have had no problems boosting but with page after page of posts I’m a little concerned.

4Reak Show covered it well, there's one more thing to add. For those who are pushing higher boost pressure (2.1" pulley) the low RPM pinging becomes more of an issue. For a stock supercharger, it's almost non-existent since the engine will almost always downshift before hitting 5-6 PSI at 2000 RPM. That's the one I've been chasing a bit since it makes so much power, I can climb 8% grades at 70 MPH and the darn thing won't shift out of overdrive! Not the typical user's experience.

What causes the low RPM ping is that the ECU doesn't even read the signal from the factory knock sensors until the engine is revving over 3000 RPM's. For most, this isn't a huge issue if you can get closed loop tuning like from the 7th injector and split second O2 tuning module or by pulling timing. The high RPM pinging or lean out is less common and easily solved by adding fuel at open loop.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Question for those of you running the aftermarket tuning options on these motors. I just supercharged my truck yesterday, stock pulley, 2 step colder plugs with new wires, and 91 octane of course. Surprise surprise it pings like a mofo even at 6k feet. I was pretty much expecting it but wasn't it expecting it to be this bad. Pretty much anytime I even think about touching the gas climbing a hill it sounds like a 90s ford powerstroke haha. I think this is largely due to the fact the truck is running 20 degrees of timing advance when it starts pinging and not backing off since its below 3k RPMS and the ECU isnt referencing the knock sensors.

I also can feel it hesitating in different areas of the RPM band when running at WOT, I assume this is it running lean, wont know for sure until I get my Boost, EGT, and AFR gauges installed in the next couple of weeks.

Ive been looking at the different tuning options for the truck and It seems my two main options are URD 7th injector kit or the AEM FIC. The URD kit is nice because its proven, all plug and play, but its expensive and the tuning seems sort of limited especially in the respect you have to power cycle the truck to update the tune. That would be a major pain in the ass on a longer trip if Im trying to fine tune the everything. The AEM fixes those two problems being much cheaper and allowing tuning on the fly. What is unclear to me though is with the AEM unit what do people do for additional fueling? Larger injectors or is the AEM unit able to control a 7th injector option I haven't seen? I dont want to run Meth Injection because of simplicity and I dont have room for another tank of stuff on board. Also in terms of tuning which one is easier? Im not super concerned about this as Im more interested in the most cost effective way to make the truck run right and leave me headroom to run a 2.2 or 2.1" pulley but it all plays into what route I go because I dont want to be doing things twice

Congrats, you have a healthy engine with good compression!

First things first, did you reset your battery or pull the EFI fuse? If not, it's trying to drive as though it's not boosted and your fuel trims are way off. Also run a few fuel injector cleaners in case you've got clogged injectors.

Second, you have an Auto with the transmission linkage so there's another trick you can do. I have that same issue with the low RPM ping going up long steep grades. Overtighten the transmission kick-down cable that connects to the throttle body 1/16" at a time. Do it a little, then drive it for a week or so. If it doesn't downshift when you want it to, tighten a little more. Shouldn't need to tighten it too much, you should see the little "knob" in the wire only extend about 1/8" past the rubber cap. That way when you climb a hill, the transmission will kick down out of overdrive and into 3rd. Or you can just turn O/D off.

For the 7th injector vs AEM unit, what is your end goal? If it's just to eliminate ping and give you headroom to run smaller pulleys, the 7th injector fits the bill nicely. If you are looking for a fine tuned engine that has a whole lot more headroom to drive large injectors, tune closed loop boost, etc. then the AEM FIC 6 is better. It is considerably more difficult to install though, a lot of wires need to be tapped and spliced.

To add fuel for the AEM FIC 6, you increase the pulse width of the injectors to add fuel. It literally holds them open longer and just puts in more fuel. Obviously, the stock injectors are going to hit a wall pretty quick which is why most install the 310 cc (some sites rate them at 360 cc's at 100% duty cycle) Supra/Lexus injectors. The AEM FIC 6 cannot drive the 7th injector, only the 6 main injectors. Why I chose the AEM unit is because I wanted to:

• Tune closed loop boost easily
• Drive large injectors with lots of space due to my HP goals for the engine
• Ease of tuning, adjustments can be made while you are driving
• Lots of resources and support for how to tune it

 

[Black798]

Congrats, you have a healthy engine with good compression!

First things first, did you reset your battery or pull the EFI fuse? If not, it's trying to drive as though it's not boosted and your fuel trims are way off. Also run a few fuel injector cleaners in case you've got clogged injectors.

Second, you have an Auto with the transmission linkage so there's another trick you can do. I have that same issue with the low RPM ping going up long steep grades. Overtighten the transmission kick-down cable that connects to the throttle body 1/16" at a time. Do it a little, then drive it for a week or so. If it doesn't downshift when you want it to, tighten a little more. Shouldn't need to tighten it too much, you should see the little "knob" in the wire only extend about 1/8" past the rubber cap. That way when you climb a hill, the transmission will kick down out of overdrive and into 3rd. Or you can just turn O/D off.

For the 7th injector vs AEM unit, what is your end goal? If it's just to eliminate ping and give you headroom to run smaller pulleys, the 7th injector fits the bill nicely. If you are looking for a fine tuned engine that has a whole lot more headroom to drive large injectors, tune closed loop boost, etc. then the AEM FIC 6 is better. It is considerably more difficult to install though, a lot of wires need to be tapped and spliced.

To add fuel for the AEM FIC 6, you increase the pulse width of the injectors to add fuel. It literally holds them open longer and just puts in more fuel. Obviously, the stock injectors are going to hit a wall pretty quick which is why most install the 310 cc (some sites rate them at 360 cc's at 100% duty cycle) Supra/Lexus injectors. The AEM FIC 6 cannot drive the 7th injector, only the 6 main injectors. Why I chose the AEM unit is because I wanted to:

• Tune closed loop boost easily
• Drive large injectors with lots of space due to my HP goals for the engine
• Ease of tuning, adjustments can be made while you are driving
• Lots of resources and support for how to tune it

The motor is quite healthy haha. Compression test before the supercharger went on showed 150 psi in all cylinders. Corrected for altitude that puts me at 170 and stock spec is 174.


I had the battery removed the entire time I did the install so if that didnt reset the ecu I dont know what will haha, I ran a tank with some cleaer in it through before the install but throwing another one in wouldn't hurt. I can definitely feel it lean out in certain areas where the mtor will kind of back off then pull real hard for a few 100 rpms then back off again.

Gave the trans cable a quick look tonight and its just slightly past spec and its pretty easy to get it to downshift. I was able to get it to ping in 2nd gear today pretty easily. I still need to install the 170 degree tstat but was saving that as sort of a last resort.

Also after doing a bunch of research yesterday Im pretty set on the AEM FIC-6. The install doesn't scare me and it really seems like the 7th injector is an over glorified band aide with a antiquated tuning software. And for the price difference between the AEM and 7th injector I can get different injectors, or a smaller pulley and still come out ahead. I also really want as much control as I can get over the motor and tune to set it up for more power, better mileage, or whatever I really want. The AEM seems to fit the bill pretty well in that aspect. Im ordering my gauges tomorrow and the AEM will be quick to follow.

 

[quicksilvr]

I don’t post much, mostly read to gather information. But I thought I would give back and share what I have found in my experience.

I’ve had my supercharger about 4 years now. Had ping from the beginning. But as someone mentioned before, you can learn how to drive around it. First I started off with no fuel mods at all.

I wanted more power so I decided to drop down to a 2.1 pulley. Along with that I went with the AEM meth kit. Still had ping. Added the URD O2 calibrator. Still had ping. Don’t get me wrong, both helped, but did not solve my issues.

Couple months ago my number 6 injector went out. Put it in the shop to get it fixed along with an oil leak. Just happened to come across a thread about injectors. It was related to the Toyota 305cc injectors along with the supercharger. People seemed to have good experiences with them, but not many, compared to the 7th injector, had made the swap. Most of the information on them has been on Gadgets site for years and years, but I never paid it any attention.

I did the swap with a set purchased off amazon, and they have been incredible. I have almost zero ping. I can hardly get it to ping if I’m trying. I’m running them alone. No meth and no 02 calibrator and stock fuel pump and they work with the factory ECU. I do plan to hook the calibrator back up to make the transition to open loop sooner. Here’s what I bought.

Toyota part number 23250-46030

Re-Manufactured OEM Reman... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TZFMK3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just throwing this out there as another option that hardly gets talked about and has worked great for me.

Hey, I'm really interested in doing this as well. I'm always slightly leery to buy remanufactured stuff off Amazon because seller's aren't always the best. But if they are OEM parts that have been properly reman'd i'm sure they are good stuff.

How many miles/time do you have on your reman's from Amazon now?

 

[gamefreakgc]

The motor is quite healthy haha. Compression test before the supercharger went on showed 150 psi in all cylinders. Corrected for altitude that puts me at 170 and stock spec is 174.


I had the battery removed the entire time I did the install so if that didnt reset the ecu I dont know what will haha, I ran a tank with some cleaer in it through before the install but throwing another one in wouldn't hurt. I can definitely feel it lean out in certain areas where the mtor will kind of back off then pull real hard for a few 100 rpms then back off again.

Gave the trans cable a quick look tonight and its just slightly past spec and its pretty easy to get it to downshift. I was able to get it to ping in 2nd gear today pretty easily. I still need to install the 170 degree tstat but was saving that as sort of a last resort.

Also after doing a bunch of research yesterday Im pretty set on the AEM FIC-6. The install doesn't scare me and it really seems like the 7th injector is an over glorified band aide with a antiquated tuning software. And for the price difference between the AEM and 7th injector I can get different injectors, or a smaller pulley and still come out ahead. I also really want as much control as I can get over the motor and tune to set it up for more power, better mileage, or whatever I really want. The AEM seems to fit the bill pretty well in that aspect. Im ordering my gauges tomorrow and the AEM will be quick to follow.

Yeah your fuel trims were reset! At least that's not it.

The surging you are feeling might be the narrowband O2 sensor pulling your fuel and adding it back in. Mine does that until I skew the signal to run rich.

Since you are going with the AEM FIC 6, you will need a way to view your fuet trims stored in the ECU. If you don't have one already, get some sort of Scanguage or a bluetooth "code reader" and the Torque Pro app. Actually, just get the Torque Pro app. From there you can view timing advance, long term fuel trims (LTFT), short term fuel trims (STFT), coolant temperature, and a whole lot of other useful tuning information. I would not have been able to tune mine as well as I did without it.

That's also exactly why I went with the AEM FIC 6 as well. I bought the FIC, 2.1" pulley and 2.0" pulley and Supra/Lexus injectors for less than the 7th Injector system. Don't forget a wideband sensor though, which is needed for either installation anyway.

Oh and by the way, the TransGo shift kit you installed is really going to shine! I love that 1-2 shift still, it's so crisp and keeps the engine pulling strong!

 

[Clumsy me]

Hey guys I am back with my junkyard supercharger. I am hoping after all the help I got from everyone last time I am hoping you guys can pull some magic again. A little background and maintenance history before getting into the new issue. I found a Gen 1 SC in a junkyard and bought it for $100 (I know super lucky). Before I put it on the truck I changed the oil and the coupler. Once I got it on the car I was getting some bad rattle at idle and after a bunch of help from everyone I noticed that the pulley notch had widened and had a lot of play so I swapped that and was off to the races. As of 2 days ago I have a new noise coming from I believe the front cone. It sounds like a marble spinning in a can. The noise is not speed driven but RPM driven. It is very noticeable when coming off the gas and the rpms are dropping. There are 2 videos below, I am hoping you guys can help me out!!!!!

YouTube

YouTube

 

[Hepar]

Hey guys I am back with my junkyard supercharger. I am hoping after all the help I got from everyone last time I am hoping you guys can pull some magic again. A little background and maintenance history before getting into the new issue. I found a Gen 1 SC in a junkyard and bought it for $100 (I know super lucky). Before I put it on the truck I changed the oil and the coupler. Once I got it on the car I was getting some bad rattle at idle and after a bunch of help from everyone I noticed that the pulley notch had widened and had a lot of play so I swapped that and was off to the races. As of 2 days ago I have a new noise coming from I believe the front cone. It sounds like a marble spinning in a can. The noise is not speed driven but RPM driven. It is very noticeable when coming off the gas and the rpms are dropping. There are 2 videos below, I am hoping you guys can help me out!!!!!

YouTube

YouTube

Sounds like you need a nose cone rebuild. Unfortunately the downside to the gen charger you have is that it's not an easy thing to do. If it was the black model, super easy.

 

[Clumsy me]

Sounds like you need a nose cone rebuild. Unfortunately the downside to the gen charger you have is that it's not an easy thing to do. If it was the black model, super easy.

Hepar,

Thank you for the info. I am not afraid to tackle the nose rebuild I just got done with headgasket so this should be a walk in the park. I already have the bearings needed for the nose cone and I just ordered the vitol gasket and some new oil.

When I got home from work I let the truck cool and got to work. See the video attached with how lose the pulley is.

https://i.imgur.com/1ozr7Rf.mp4V


So after I got the pulley off I noticed this!!!!

So my issue is that I already replaced the pulley once before for the same thing!! What could be causing this to happen? Should I still rebuild the nose? I also have a new wooddrift key to go in but the one on the shaft doesnt look beat up at all. Is it possible that the key width is different between the 1st n 2nd gen SCs? I got this pulley off another member here with a V2. I am at a loss now for answers.

Lets see some magic boys!!!



EDIT: Also I should note that I do not have a dynamic tensioner. Would the lack of that cause the belt tension to come on and off causing the pulley to grind against the key causing the ridge.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hepar,

Thank you for the info. I am not afraid to tackle the nose rebuild I just got done with headgasket so this should be a walk in the park. I already have the bearings needed for the nose cone and I just ordered the vitol gasket and some new oil.

When I got home from work I let the truck cool and got to work. See the video attached with how lose the pulley is.




So after I got the pulley off I noticed this!!!!


So my issue is that I already replaced the pulley once before for the same thing!! What could be causing this to happen? Should I still rebuild the nose? I also have a new wooddrift key to go in but the one on the shaft doesnt look beat up at all. Is it possible that the key width is different between the 1st n 2nd gen SCs? I got this pulley off another member here with a V2. I am at a loss now for answers.

Lets see some magic boys!!!



EDIT: Also I should note that I do not have a dynamic tensioner. Would the lack of that cause the belt tension to come on and off causing the pulley to grind against the key causing the ridge.

I have heard of a few random superchargers that eat pulleys but there was never an answer why. I suppose the static tensioner could be to blame if it's not tight enough and allowing the pulley to rattle. I would replace the woodruff key though even it if "looks fine" since something is very wrong.

There's no difference in the pulley between the grey and black superchargers, it's identical.

 

[Black798]

Yeah your fuel trims were reset! At least that's not it.

The surging you are feeling might be the narrowband O2 sensor pulling your fuel and adding it back in. Mine does that until I skew the signal to run rich.

Since you are going with the AEM FIC 6, you will need a way to view your fuet trims stored in the ECU. If you don't have one already, get some sort of Scanguage or a bluetooth "code reader" and the Torque Pro app. Actually, just get the Torque Pro app. From there you can view timing advance, long term fuel trims (LTFT), short term fuel trims (STFT), coolant temperature, and a whole lot of other useful tuning information. I would not have been able to tune mine as well as I did without it.

That's also exactly why I went with the AEM FIC 6 as well. I bought the FIC, 2.1" pulley and 2.0" pulley and Supra/Lexus injectors for less than the 7th Injector system. Don't forget a wideband sensor though, which is needed for either installation anyway.

Oh and by the way, the TransGo shift kit you installed is really going to shine! I love that 1-2 shift still, it's so crisp and keeps the engine pulling strong!

Interestingly enough cruising and even under pretty hard throttle the fuel trims are always under 8%, they're actually negative pretty often. So that telling me either Im running stupid lean or I have a decent amount of room to work with for tuning fuel on the stock injectors. At idle though Im sitting at like 13-15% on the long term trim. Once I get the AFR gauge in Ill be able to tell a little better whats going on and track down the surging issue. It weird because theres like 3 or 4 points in the RPM range where the power hits hard and then pulls back then slams back on.

After watching the timing through the scanguage Im 100% sure thats where most if not all my pinging is coming from. Just audibly when I hear the supercharger building boost the timing doesn't move at all, stays pegged at full advance which seems to be around 20 to 22 degrees. But as soon as the rpms hit 3k and the knock sensors turn on it drops to the 14 degree area. So that will be an easy fix with the FIC when that goes in. It could also explain the rapid increase in coolant temp when Im under boost on hills, too much advance will make more heat and add a leaner than ideal AFR and it would explain how it goes from 188 to 197 in half a mile. I wish the FIC had the capability to advance timing though, would be nice for low load cruising where I could take advantage of the 91 octane a little more.

Ill agree the shift kit is awesome, before it always felt a little clunky, shifts were tight and firm but they were so fast Id go from 1st to 2nd and the motor would just fall on its face and bog. Now it accelerates right through the shift points, makes it much more enjoyable to drive.

 

[Clumsy me]

Hepar,

Thank you for the info. I am not afraid to tackle the nose rebuild I just got done with headgasket so this should be a walk in the park. I already have the bearings needed for the nose cone and I just ordered the vitol gasket and some new oil.

When I got home from work I let the truck cool and got to work. See the video attached with how lose the pulley is.

https://i.imgur.com/1ozr7Rf.mp4V


So after I got the pulley off I noticed this!!!!



So my issue is that I already replaced the pulley once before for the same thing!! What could be causing this to happen? Should I still rebuild the nose? I also have a new wooddrift key to go in but the one on the shaft doesnt look beat up at all. Is it possible that the key width is different between the 1st n 2nd gen SCs? I got this pulley off another member here with a V2. I am at a loss now for answers.

Lets see some magic boys!!!



EDIT: Also I should note that I do not have a dynamic tensioner. Would the lack of that cause the belt tension to come on and off causing the pulley to grind against the key causing the ridge.

So I am back with an update on the junkyard charger. I pulled the input shaft out and the front bearing seized and gouged the shaft pretty good. I took it to a machine shop to see about just having a new one made and they came back saying it would be roughly 750-800 to reverse engineer the shaft and mill a new one.

Anyone has a place I might be able to get a new shaft for cheaper? I would hate to see a supercharger go to the scrap like this.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I am back with an update on the junkyard charger. I pulled the input shaft out and the front bearing seized and gouged the shaft pretty good. I took it to a machine shop to see about just having a new one made and they came back saying it would be roughly 750-800 to reverse engineer the shaft and mill a new one.

Anyone has a place I might be able to get a new shaft for cheaper? I would hate to see a supercharger go to the scrap like this.

Contact Magnuson, the manufacturer of the supercharger. They are known to sell replacement parts of all kinds but be sure to let them know you have the older grey model.

 

[nchacon1984]

Going to be taking my 4R to get smogged this weekend or the next. Curious to see where you guys have your TRD stickers for the smog tech to see.

 

[Smog-guy707]

Going to be taking my 4R to get smogged this weekend or the next. Curious to see where you guys have your TRD stickers for the smog tech to see.

Just under the hood should be fine. By the original emission sticker


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

Going to be taking my 4R to get smogged this weekend or the next. Curious to see where you guys have your TRD stickers for the smog tech to see.

I have a small collection of stickers on the firewall. Easy to see and read.

 

[nchacon1984]

I have a small collection of stickers on the firewall. Easy to see and read.

Would you mind posting a pic?