The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread - Vol 2
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Hi All, I've been struggling with this issue on my 02 4runner for a while now and can't figure it out. I've replaced all my ball joints, two lower control arm bushings (one on each side), and a wheel bearing. All of which did need to be replaced. I performed a proper alignment on the alignment rack at my work (I'm an apprentice technician). And the left front tire still squeals and it tracks all over the place, especially while braking. Wondering if anyone else has come across this issue before or has any ideas as to what it might be.
I bought a raggedy ass SR5 99 4Runner from auction and the previous owner apparently had a knack for bullshitting, after much work on the front end I eventually thought about doing a "quick" front diff fluid change when I ran into the tightest, stripped out drain plug I've ever encountered. I've already tried heat and just hanging on it like an ape, is there any wizard shit I can perform or should I just air chisel it to shreds with another case on standby?
Hello everyone, I just picked up my first 3rd gen 4Runner — a ’97 Limited with the 3.4L and about 250k miles. Surprisingly, it doesn’t have much rust.
I’ve got a few questions and was hoping someone here could help me out:
1. What does the “TED” label stand for? It has gold plating and looks factory, not aftermarket.
2. Mine has an antenna on the rear window and a microphone near the driver’s visor. I found a Motorola module under the rear seat, and from what I found online it seems related to OnStar. Was this factory-installed or aftermarket?
3. I’m missing a switch next to the parking brake. Does anyone know what’s supposed to be there?
4. My truck doesn’t seem to have an immobilizer. It came with plain metal keys and no remote buttons. Is it possible to program a key fob to the existing central locking system, or do these not have a wireless module?
5. Every time I turn the key to ignition, after all the warning chimes I hear electric motor spin for about half a second under the hood. Any idea what that is?
6. 4WD button on the shifter currently does nothing. I'm researching how it should work right now, I'm assuming it's vacuum powered solenoid? I know previous owner capped a few hoses under the hood
Thanks in advance!
I’ve got a few questions and was hoping someone here could help me out:
1. What does the “TED” label stand for? It has gold plating and looks factory, not aftermarket.
2. Mine has an antenna on the rear window and a microphone near the driver’s visor. I found a Motorola module under the rear seat, and from what I found online it seems related to OnStar. Was this factory-installed or aftermarket?
3. I’m missing a switch next to the parking brake. Does anyone know what’s supposed to be there?
4. My truck doesn’t seem to have an immobilizer. It came with plain metal keys and no remote buttons. Is it possible to program a key fob to the existing central locking system, or do these not have a wireless module?
5. Every time I turn the key to ignition, after all the warning chimes I hear electric motor spin for about half a second under the hood. Any idea what that is?
6. 4WD button on the shifter currently does nothing. I'm researching how it should work right now, I'm assuming it's vacuum powered solenoid? I know previous owner capped a few hoses under the hood
Thanks in advance!
phattyduck
Elite Member
1. "LIMI" was broken off.
2. Something cell phone related. Useless with modern digital phones.
3. not sure
4. No immobilizer on '96-'98 4Runners. Alarm system will be an "RS3000" dealer installed unit. Don't try to use the '99+ fob.
5. ABS
6. '96-'98 Limited used an electric motor for the 2WD to 4WD shift (no multi-mode like '99+ Limiteds) at the transfer case, then vacuum actuator for the front diff. This will be a big one to diagnose.
-Charlie
Hello,
Earlier this year I got a 2001 Toyota 4runner SR5 Sport Utility 4D with about 150,000 on it. It had a few issues, but was finally able to start driving it about 2 weeks ago. A check engine light came on at some point, but due to some surrounding issues I wasn't able to get it looked at.
Then one day I went to start it up and it wouldn't start, it was cranking but wouldn't turn over, after trying for a bit it did eventually start. Though later that day the same thing happened but it wouldn't start at all.
I towed it to a shop and they said it was an engine issue, specifically jump timing, and told me to call another branch of theirs. The guy there said that if it's a jump timing issue then the car needs a new engine since it's an interference engine, and that it's too late for a timing belt change.
I know absolutely nothing about cars but looking around online I'm seeing that that might not be the case. So I'm hoping someone may have some advice on if the guy was wrong, or am I just screwed?
PS. The old owner said they he replaced the timing belt about 30,000 miles ago, for whatever that's worth.
Earlier this year I got a 2001 Toyota 4runner SR5 Sport Utility 4D with about 150,000 on it. It had a few issues, but was finally able to start driving it about 2 weeks ago. A check engine light came on at some point, but due to some surrounding issues I wasn't able to get it looked at.
Then one day I went to start it up and it wouldn't start, it was cranking but wouldn't turn over, after trying for a bit it did eventually start. Though later that day the same thing happened but it wouldn't start at all.
I towed it to a shop and they said it was an engine issue, specifically jump timing, and told me to call another branch of theirs. The guy there said that if it's a jump timing issue then the car needs a new engine since it's an interference engine, and that it's too late for a timing belt change.
I know absolutely nothing about cars but looking around online I'm seeing that that might not be the case. So I'm hoping someone may have some advice on if the guy was wrong, or am I just screwed?
PS. The old owner said they he replaced the timing belt about 30,000 miles ago, for whatever that's worth.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
The Toyota 3.4L 5VZ-FE engine is a non-interference engine. If your timing belt breaks or slips, the valves and pistons will not collide, meaning a snapped belt will not cause catastrophic internal engine damage.What Happens If the Timing Belt Breaks?While a broken timing belt will not destroy your valvetrain, the engine will immediately lose all timing and stall, leaving you stranded. To get the vehicle running again, you will simply need to install a new timing belt and reset the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC).Recommended MaintenanceAlthough the engine is forgiving if the belt breaks, routine maintenance is still vital to prevent unexpected breakdowns:Replacement Interval: Toyota recommends replacing the timing belt every 90,000 miles.While You're In There: It is highly recommended to replace the water pump, tensioner bearing, and idler pulleys at the same time the belt is changed.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Sounds like its the shop that knows nothing... The 5VZ won't get hurt by a broken or jumped timing belt (one of the last engines where this was true, so count yourself lucky).
The previous owner may have used crappy parts, or the shop may have mis-diagnosed the issue.
The best way to get through this is DIY - get in there and see if it really is off timing. Move/remove one clamp on the upper hose (don't remove hose), loosen upper timing cover and check crank vs. cam timing. You can go from there either repairing the timing belt or finding what else might be causing the issue.
This is also a decent engine to learn how to do a timing belt on - again non-interference, so near zero risk of permanent damage if you make a mistake. Everything right in the front with lots of room once you remove the fan and shroud. Aisin makes a reasonably priced kit to do the whole thing with quality parts.
-Charlie
JustTroItIn
Member
I wouldn't even trust the shops diagnosis since they don't know crap about the 5VZ, and the symptoms you describe could be anything. Buy a cheap code reader and get the codes yourself.
I got the 4WD actuator working. When I press the 4WD button on the shifter, I can hear the electric motor spinning. However, the 4WD light on the dash just blinking once and never stays solid.
I think the 4WD is actually engaging because I can feel a slight bump when I turn it off.
I also found a disconnected wire near the actuator. Does anyone know where it should be connected?
Another question: what is this large bushing for?
I think the 4WD is actually engaging because I can feel a slight bump when I turn it off.
I also found a disconnected wire near the actuator. Does anyone know where it should be connected?
Another question: what is this large bushing for?
Count Krunk
Junior Member
I just replaced timing belt, water pump, theromstat, and the other belts on my 2000 4runner.
As well as the rad as it was leaking when I filled it back up.
Anyway, I have discovered a leak of coolant then steam (when it's warmed up) coming out of this orifice on the block.
Is it missing a plug? I don't see any tube that would connect to it.
Does the head head bolt above it tighten or loosen the plug? v6 engine.
Thanks
As well as the rad as it was leaking when I filled it back up.
Anyway, I have discovered a leak of coolant then steam (when it's warmed up) coming out of this orifice on the block.
Is it missing a plug? I don't see any tube that would connect to it.
Does the head head bolt above it tighten or loosen the plug? v6 engine.
Thanks
phattyduck
Elite Member
The bushing is there to dampen some drivetrain vibration. You can remove it for now. They are expensive to replace and you probably won't notice it being gone. Mine has been gone for years as it interferes with the skid plate I have over that area.
The plug is for one of the transfer case position sensors. There should be a matching gray/white connector in that area coming off a position switch screwed in near the top of the transfer case - the rearmost of the two on that side of the transfer case.
-Charlie
I've already replaced the OEM Solenoid B, filter, pan gasket, and ATF. Wiring checks out, but the same code came back.
Transmission shifts well around town with no slipping or harsh shifts. Highway symptoms are no overdrive, no apparent torque converter lockup, and RPMs drop immediately when lifting off the throttle. Also have a faint whine that changes with RPM/vehicle speed and is only present in gear.
Transmission shop suspects the valve body. Has anyone had a persistent P0755 after replacing the solenoid? Did it end up being the valve body, torque converter, internal harness, or something else?
Transmission shifts well around town with no slipping or harsh shifts. Highway symptoms are no overdrive, no apparent torque converter lockup, and RPMs drop immediately when lifting off the throttle. Also have a faint whine that changes with RPM/vehicle speed and is only present in gear.
Transmission shop suspects the valve body. Has anyone had a persistent P0755 after replacing the solenoid? Did it end up being the valve body, torque converter, internal harness, or something else?
JustTroItIn
Member
I believe the bolt to the left of that port opens and closes the coolant passage.
Sleazeball
Junior Member
Hey everyone.
I am trying to replace my exhaust on a 98 SR5.
The front exhaust pipe and cat are one piece and I am looking for suggestions on right side bolt access.
I had to use a breaker bar to bust the left two nuts and stabilizer nut loose but the right side is harder to get to. I dont have a straight shot at it. The up pipe and swaybar bushing mount on the chassis are in the way so I cant get anything on it from underneath like the other three I got loose.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am trying to replace my exhaust on a 98 SR5.
The front exhaust pipe and cat are one piece and I am looking for suggestions on right side bolt access.
I had to use a breaker bar to bust the left two nuts and stabilizer nut loose but the right side is harder to get to. I dont have a straight shot at it. The up pipe and swaybar bushing mount on the chassis are in the way so I cant get anything on it from underneath like the other three I got loose.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
JustTroItIn
Member
Long extension and a wobble socket.
Sleazeball
Junior Member
Awesome. Thank you ill give that a shot!
Nates_NW4Runner
Member
Guys,
Been a long time!
The steering in my '99 Limited has some... issues.
Occasionally, it feels like it is binding inside the column, behind the steering wheel... it makes gritty/squeaky/grindy noises during the stiff times.
It's not the rack, not the ball joints, not the steering shaft coupler... every one of them moves freely.
I haven't yet removed the steering wheel, to look for any other the moving parts, but I plan on doing that next.
I'm not sure where else to look for the culprit!
Has anyone faced this issue? And if so, what was it?
Been a long time!
The steering in my '99 Limited has some... issues.
Occasionally, it feels like it is binding inside the column, behind the steering wheel... it makes gritty/squeaky/grindy noises during the stiff times.
It's not the rack, not the ball joints, not the steering shaft coupler... every one of them moves freely.
I haven't yet removed the steering wheel, to look for any other the moving parts, but I plan on doing that next.
I'm not sure where else to look for the culprit!
Has anyone faced this issue? And if so, what was it?
