The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[ej86923]

Thank you for all that! I'm new to 3rd gens so I really appreciate the insights.

When I had the car inspected there was "a little play" in the lower ball joints but they didn't need to be replaced immediately. That was just a few weeks ago in early February. The peace of mind might be nice to have on the trip though. How much does that cost at a shop? I'm not sure that's a job I'll be able to do myself.

Also the oils you mentioned (transmission and transfer case), what does changing those entail? A job I can do myself or should I have a shop do them?

I think I'll just leave the valve cover gasket alone. It's not dripping onto the ground and I can deal with the smell. Don't want to take any risks with tightening the bolts. I'll just do it right when the time comes.

Thank you again!

If your LBJ's have "a little play" it is definitely time to change them out. As has been stated get the OEM from an online dealership. Ebay etc. has been know to sell fakes claiming they are OEM.
It is not a hard job, 4 bolts and 2 castle nuts per side. I just did mine and it took about an hour total using a cordless impact.

 

[Devbot]

Was gonna snag some durobump front stops. Does one pair suffice (one bump stop per LCA) or are two recommended (all 4 OEM bump stops replaced)? Was thinking of saying screw it and getting 4, but I'm not sure if theres any benefit or drawback

 

[cl4Rk]

Was gonna snag some durobump front stops. Does one pair suffice (one bump stop per LCA) or are two recommended (all 4 OEM bump stops replaced)? Was thinking of saying screw it and getting 4, but I'm not sure if theres any benefit or drawback

The DuroBumps fronts replace just 1 on each LCA, the rearmost one.

I don’t know if there’s any benefits or drawbacks to replacing all four fronts.

 

[Bad Luck]

So this may be a dumb question but here goes. Is there any maintenance or rebuild kit for the alternator on these trucks. To preface this I currently have no issues at all with my original one i was thinking about preventative maintenance.
I'd rather keep it in good working order while it is. I know in todays world reman'd and aftermarket are never as good as the originals. I though I heard that you replace the brushed on these. It that a hard job to do?

Rebuild Alternator (W/ Pics)
3rd Gen specific google search for future reference: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Atoyota-4Runner.org%2F3rd-gen-t4rs%2F+&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1QJDB_enUS784US793&sxsrf=ALeKk02M163yZ1p7J_3HS7xahimr2o13PQ%3A1617120888994&ei=eE5jYK2HPMi0tQa0gLeYDw&oq=site%3Atoyota-4Runner.org%2F3rd-gen-t4rs%2F+&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EANQtI8CWJOiAmDtpwJoAXAAeACAAUKIAYcIkgECMTmYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6wAEB&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwito5bhtNjvAhVIWs0KHTTADfMQ4dUDCA0&uact=5

 

[PeteCain]

P0300 Code

Howdy folks!

A little backstory: For the past few weeks, my check engine light has been coming on and off. I would go out and turn my truck on and it would be on, do a few errands and then when I would turn my truck on the CEL would be off. I initially thought it was my gas cap because when I would undo that, sometimes the light would go off.

Today I scanned it and it came back with the code P0300: Random Misfire Detected. My first question is what does this mean? If you've seen my other posts on this thread, I'm a complete newbie to 3rd gens and cars in general. I haven't really noticed anything different except sometimes a rough turnover and idle when I first start the car.

Second question is how do I solve it? I know that my valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, currently seeping with a burning oil smell when I turn the car off. Also my oil is slightly low currently. Autozone suggested both valve cover gasket and intake plenum gasket (?). Are those what could be causing the issue? I've seen a few other posts on here that suggest wiring and such for the same code.

Any help y'all can give on solving this issue would be much appreciated!

 

[photoleif]

Howdy folks!

A little backstory: For the past few weeks, my check engine light has been coming on and off. I would go out and turn my truck on and it would be on, do a few errands and then when I would turn my truck on the CEL would be off. I initially thought it was my gas cap because when I would undo that, sometimes the light would go off.

Today I scanned it and it came back with the code P0300: Random Misfire Detected. My first question is what does this mean? If you've seen my other posts on this thread, I'm a complete newbie to 3rd gens and cars in general. I haven't really noticed anything different except sometimes a rough turnover and idle when I first start the car.

Second question is how do I solve it? I know that my valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, currently seeping with a burning oil smell when I turn the car off. Also my oil is slightly low currently. Autozone suggested both valve cover gasket and intake plenum gasket (?). Are those what could be causing the issue? I've seen a few other posts on here that suggest wiring and such for the same code.

Any help y'all can give on solving this issue would be much appreciated!

P0300 is one of the P030x series of DTC codes for misfires, and there's no unique cause. they all have the same series of typical causes to investigate:

Open or short in engine wire
Connector connection
Vacuum hose connector
Ignition system
Injector
Fuel pressure
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temp. temp sensor
Compression pressure
Valve clearance
Valve timing
PCV valve and hose
ECM

i'm adding one additional here, and that's having the spark plug wiring wrong. you wouldn't get a P0300 for that, but instead one or more of the specific P030x ones.

this is the FSM order, rather than any kind of likelihood that i've assigned. i would suggest you first just examine your engine's vacuum hoses to see if any one is disconnected. just looking is free. i doubt your MAF sensor is to blame, since that generally produces different errors. did you have your PCV valve changed? if not, that's cheap and easy. did you change out spark plug wires?

 

[spartacus]

Howdy folks!

A little backstory: For the past few weeks, my check engine light has been coming on and off. I would go out and turn my truck on and it would be on, do a few errands and then when I would turn my truck on the CEL would be off. I initially thought it was my gas cap because when I would undo that, sometimes the light would go off.

Today I scanned it and it came back with the code P0300: Random Misfire Detected. My first question is what does this mean? If you've seen my other posts on this thread, I'm a complete newbie to 3rd gens and cars in general. I haven't really noticed anything different except sometimes a rough turnover and idle when I first start the car.

Second question is how do I solve it? I know that my valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, currently seeping with a burning oil smell when I turn the car off. Also my oil is slightly low currently. Autozone suggested both valve cover gasket and intake plenum gasket (?). Are those what could be causing the issue? I've seen a few other posts on here that suggest wiring and such for the same code.

Any help y'all can give on solving this issue would be much appreciated!

Start by replacing spark plugs. if they haven't been replaced in a while. 25 bucks well spend denso dual electrode Denso K16TR11, NGK BKR5EKB-11, toyota part 90919-01192

 

[photoleif]

Start by replacing spark plugs. if they haven't been replaced in a while. 25 bucks well spend denso dual electrode Denso K16TR11, NGK BKR5EKB-11, toyota part 90919-01192

good suggestion. i'd also replace the wire set if it's at all sketchy or of questionable age.

 

[Devbot]

I was thinking of doing an elocker on a budget. You should be able to use just the 4.11 3rd member off a Tacoma right? Tim mentioned taking the whole rear axle but I don't see why not just take the diff

 

[spartacus]

I was thinking of doing an elocker on a budget. You should be able to use just the 4.11 3rd member off a Tacoma right? Tim mentioned taking the whole rear axle but I don't see why not just take the diff

The locker 3rd member does not fit a non locker axle housing without major modification.
Retrofit Electric Locker

 

[Devbot]

The locker 3rd member does not fit a non locker axle housing without major modification.
Retrofit Electric Locker

Ah I see the difference now comparing them on ECGS, that's major bummer. Thanks for the reply. Really don't wanna spend the money for a regearing :nono:

 

[PeteCain]

Not the news I wanted

Hello folks!

Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.

-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system

His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.

Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!

 

[spartacus]

Hello folks!

Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.

-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system

His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.

Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!

Theré is a possibility that engine head is cracked or it could also be just a bad head gasket. $2000 all in is not too bad. Cheapest option would be swapping out the motor with used one from a salvage yard or someone parting out a wrecked 4runner on Craigslist , facebook market place etc, cost would be motor around $500 and labor around $500 to drop it in. Jpm import out of a Toyota van from Japan another option but are getting a little expensive. Your mechanic should be able to tell you after tear down if the heads are warpped, cracked or it is a blown head gasket. Labor cost is what makes the bill expensive. Good luck.

 

[tgreenwood75]

Hello folks!

Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.

-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system

His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.

Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!

Is it a mechanic that you trust? P0300 marks a misfire which could be caused by many many small things. If you haven't had any drivability issues and never experienced the symptoms he is describing, it's hard not to be skeptical... Just seems weird that you could drive it to the shop with the temp gauge in spec but it would spike when he pulled it in?

 

[PeteCain]

Is it a mechanic that you trust? P0300 marks a misfire which could be caused by many many small things. If you haven't had any drivability issues and never experienced the symptoms he is describing, it's hard not to be skeptical... Just seems weird that you could drive it to the shop with the temp gauge in spec but it would spike when he pulled it in?

I did think about that. However after a little research through the forums, I've been experiencing the other telltale signs. Rough idle on startup, white smoke for ~ 1 minute after starting, and misfire code. Is there anything else that those could be?

 

[photoleif]

I did think about that. However after a little research through the forums, I've been experiencing the other telltale signs. Rough idle on startup, white smoke for ~ 1 minute after starting, and misfire code. Is there anything else that those could be?

hey man. sorry to hear of your troubles. white smoke often is a HG issue. i was having that with a 3.slo in my truck, and that precipitated a swap to a 5vz-fe eight years ago this summer. we had a look after extracting the old engine, and we had caught it in time, but it was indeed a blown head gasket. we were able to get some salvage $$ for it.

we later replaced that used 5vz-fe for a reman when the first swapper threw a rod. the dead old one came out and the new short block went in, in ten hours. it was a long day but two of us made it happen.

 

[Bad Luck]

I was thinking of doing an elocker on a budget. You should be able to use just the 4.11 3rd member off a Tacoma right? Tim mentioned taking the whole rear axle but I don't see why not just take the diff

You'll need to either modify your current housing, find a 4Runner elocker rear axle housing, or remove the spring perches and add all the 4Runner brackets to the Tacoma axle housing

 

[PeteCain]

RIP Head Gasket

Just as I suspected, I've got a blown head gasket. Good news is that the bottom is still in good shape.

My mechanic just called and gave all the work that needs to be done:
-Send the heads off to machine shop to get them planed and flattened
-Fix leaking valves
-Replace head bolts
-Replace knock sensor wire
-PCV valve
-Coolant
- He suggested cleaning the fuel injectors (extra $180)

All in, he quoted me $3080.12.

Do the fuel injectors really need to be done? Like what is the benefit of doing those? If possible, I'd rather spend the money on my LBJs but I don't want to overlook the fuel injectors if that's vital.

Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!

 

[WeakSauz]

Just as I suspected, I've got a blown head gasket. Good news is that the bottom is still in good shape.

My mechanic just called and gave all the work that needs to be done:
-Send the heads off to machine shop to get them planed and flattened
-Fix leaking valves
-Replace head bolts
-Replace knock sensor wire
-PCV valve
-Coolant
- He suggested cleaning the fuel injectors (extra $180)

All in, he quoted me $3080.12.

Do the fuel injectors really need to be done? Like what is the benefit of doing those? If possible, I'd rather spend the money on my LBJs but I don't want to overlook the fuel injectors if that's vital.

Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!

Consider just getting an entirely new Longblock from Yota1 performance
5VZ 3.4L Rebuilt Toyota Engine (Complete) - Yota1 Performance, Inc.

You're just $1000 away from this with your current $3080 quote, and you get a whole new engine, not only new heads.

This is only my opinion-- might as well go all in while the engine is out-- doing this would be a lot easier than removing your heads, shipping them off, etc.

It would be a matter of ordering this engine, taking your accessories off and putting them on this, and dropping it in.

If you can scrape up the extra $1k, this is 100% what i'd suggest

 

[jgue467]

...
You're just $1000 away from this with your current $3080 quote, and you get a whole new engine, not only new heads.
...

That $3080 quote shocked me!

So, Yes I concur, if you're willing to drop +$3K for only the top, just keep going.