The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Although it’s likely incapable, has anyone been able to show the engine run time on the ScanGauge on their 3rd gen? I’ve tried multiple codes with no positive response from the ScanGauge. Figured I’d ask anyways.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for replacement front struts/springs? Ideally looking for something to match the "99 tall" ride height, pre-assembled. I have found options from Monroe, Moog, FCS etc. but not sure if they're the right height or a good replacement
Have you read the resources here, yet?

3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!



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I am pretty familiar with the typical lift suggestions, and OEM stuff tends to be super expensive in Canada so I was hoping to find an aftermarket solution that is a replacement for OEM in terms of ride height and fitment etc. Just looking for recommendations from people who have used Moog, Monroe, FCS, Unity etc. in the past.
 
Anybody know how to get these little buggers (00 Camry fog light switch) to illuminate when turned on? I assumed it would by default but apparently not. Presumably it needs to be tapped to a 12V circuit in the dash? Im currently using it for an LED bar wired right to the battery on its own circuit
 

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Hi, I'm new here due to a problem I'm having with my 2002 sr5 4runner.

I changed the key because my ignition key kept coming off when starting and I ended up installing a push button start. in my 4runner and it has an immobilizer and I leave the key inside so that it recognizes when I start with the button, but there are times when the light stays on and it doesn't start and what I do to start it is and I connect a connector that has the signal amplifier of the key and there it turns on but if I leave it connected the insurance does not happen to me and I have to disconnect it again and the truck starts fine but there are times when it does not start and I have to connect it again I want you to help me see if I can avoid the immobilizer to continue using the power button without any problem
 
I changed the key because my ignition key kept coming off when starting ........ I want you to help me see if I can avoid the immobilizer to continue using the power button without any problem



Way less work (and cheaper) to just get a replacement key.

To the best of my knowledge, and I've done a LOT of reading on this topic, no one has successfully removed the immobilizer. To be fair, I haven't seen anyone try either... the closest I can think of would be a couple instances of auto to manual swaps where one ECU was immobilizer equipped and the other not. So maybe try sourcing a body ECU from a version that didn't have the immobilizer system. You will probably have to re-pin some connectors and it may not work still, but that's the path I'd explore.
 
Way less work (and cheaper) to just get a replacement key.

To the best of my knowledge, and I've done a LOT of reading on this topic, no one has successfully removed the immobilizer. To be fair, I haven't seen anyone try either... the closest I can think of would be a couple instances of auto to manual swaps where one ECU was immobilizer equipped and the other not. So maybe try sourcing a body ECU from a version that didn't have the immobilizer system. You will probably have to re-pin some connectors and it may not work still, but that's the path I'd explore.

During my research for my 2jzgte swap I found info on the supra forums on being able to disable the immobilizer on the JDM ecus being ship over, not saying its apples for apples but this would be a good place to start gathering info...
 
During my research for my 2jzgte swap I found info on the supra forums on being able to disable the immobilizer on the JDM ecus being ship over, not saying its apples for apples but this would be a good place to start gathering info...

Quick search makes it Sound like the immo systems are similar (single chip within the body ECU), but I couldn't find any real info from anyone who'd actually (themselves) done anything with the system. All the references I found alluded to having someone else virgin the system (make it so new keys could be added). I've done that myself, 3 times, re-flashed the immobilizer system on 4runner ECUs to add new keys. I couldn't even find reference to removal or bypass. I don't doubt that it's out there somewhere, but it'll take a good bit of investigating (lots of time).
 
Quick question,

When I back into a spot I usually do half a three point turn. Turn left to the curb house opposite of me and then when close to parallel the street I back in my spot. When I do this and only when I turn pest as opposed to right my antilock brake turns comes into play on the forward motion part of the half three point turn. Any idea why?
 
Quick question,

When I back into a spot I usually do half a three point turn. Turn left to the curb house opposite of me and then when close to parallel the street I back in my spot. When I do this and only when I turn pest as opposed to right my antilock brake turns comes into play on the forward motion part of the half three point turn. Any idea why?

Probably a bad wheel speed sensor, maybe a damaged wire. That'd be where I would start
 
It was a joke.

No one wants to speculate, and if the OP doesn't provide any meaningful information then they get nothing. Im glad you saw the irony





Why don't you start by listing out what you have, starting with the year, model and what's currently installed (equipment) along with the mileage?

Hi sorry for not responding all, but I have a 2000 Toyota 4runner limited with the center locking diff. I have about 225K miles on it and I just wanted something along the lines of beefier and a slower speed. As in the car moves slower in 4 low. I also am installing in the near future a Solo Motorsports LT kit and Dobinsons LC 8 series coils. So roughly a 4 to 6 inch lift. I am also going to eventually get 4.88 differentials with lockers from East Coast Gear Supply and I am running 35s with that.
 
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Fuel tank capacity for 2000 limited

So I've read around the site and the general answer is 18.5 gallons but I feel like my fuel tank is indeed smaller. When I fuel from almost empty, it would only be like 11-13 gallons actually put in. Any answers or comments on how what's up?
 
Hi sorry for not responding all, but I have a 2000 Toyota 4runner limited with the center locking diff. I have about 225K miles on it and I just wanted something along the lines of beefier and a slower speed. As in the car moves slower in 4 low. I also am installing in the near future a Solo Motorsports LT kit and Dobinsons LC 8 series coils. So roughly a 4 to 6 inch lift. I am also going to eventually get 4.88 differentials with lockers from East Coast Gear Supply and I am running 35s with that.

There are no aftermarket gear sets for the VF2 (j-shift) or VF3AM (multi mode which is what you have) to change the low range. You can add a transfer case doubler from Marlin crawler, trail gear, or northwest fabrications to get an additional low range but you will need new front/rear driveshafts and modify the transfer case shifters and/or body to accommodate the doubler shifter.

Alternatively you can replace your transfer case with an Atlas 1 or Atlas 2 transfer case which will be stronger and can have lower low range ratio(s), but will require you to get different driveshafts/modify your 4wd system for the front diff engagement/fabricate a shifter setup/etc and you will lose the multimode function of your 4wd system.

Most people find changing the front and rear diff ratio to be sufficient for their off-roading style.
 
So I've read around the site and the general answer is 18.5 gallons but I feel like my fuel tank is indeed smaller. When I fuel from almost empty, it would only be like 11-13 gallons actually put in. Any answers or comments on how what's up?
It’s very common for the fuel gauge to be inaccurate. Toyota even released a service bulletin for 99/00 to replace the fuel sender and sometimes the instrument cluster to address the inaccuracy. You could also have a smashed fuel tank causing it to hold less.
 
So I've read around the site and the general answer is 18.5 gallons but I feel like my fuel tank is indeed smaller. When I fuel from almost empty, it would only be like 11-13 gallons actually put in. Any answers or comments on how what's up?

This might be an urban myth, but I've read on several occasions that there are 2 'inaccessible' gallons and 16.5 is about all you can pump in at Empty. Why this would be baffles me and I have no proof that it's true. To further complicate things, when I do a complete fill and set my ultra-gauge to 16.5 gallons, it says I still have a couple of gallons left when the dash gauge shows Empty. I haven't run it dry to test things yet - I have more pressing concerns like getting a junkyard transmission. Luckily, I can ride my bike to work and leave my rig in their fairly safe gated lot. Haven't been driving much lately.
 
This might be an urban myth, but I've read on several occasions that there are 2 'inaccessible' gallons and 16.5 is about all you can pump in at Empty. Why this would be baffles me and I have no proof that it's true. To further complicate things, when I do a complete fill and set my ultra-gauge to 16.5 gallons, it says I still have a couple of gallons left when the dash gauge shows Empty. I haven't run it dry to test things yet - I have more pressing concerns like getting a junkyard transmission. Luckily, I can ride my bike to work and leave my rig in their fairly safe gated lot. Haven't been driving much lately.
Vent pipe. The factory fuel tank vent pipe stops the tank from being completely filled. The free space created allows the fuel in the tank to slosh about and expand without leaking out.

Urban legend says that the vent pipe length varies from vehicle to vehicle limiting tank volume to 16.5 or less based on the length of the venue pipe; unlucky owners with long vents getting less. Some guys drop the tank and shorten the vent pipe to get more gallons in.

How many gallons you ll fill depends on several factors, including how "low" you drive it. I once tested the fuel gauge in my 2WD and got about 40 miles past Empty before stalling on flat highway. I took that to imply I still have around 2+ gallons available once the low fuel light went solid. I have not tested that on theory my 4WD.

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Anybody know what these mystery plugs might go to? Found them tucked behind the dash when I was removing the aftermarket remote start the PO had installed. Can't seem to find a spot for them anywhere so I'm assuming it's for some option with Limited trims?
 

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Anybody know what these mystery plugs might go to? Found them tucked behind the dash when I was removing the aftermarket remote start the PO had installed. Can't seem to find a spot for them anywhere so I'm assuming it's for some option with Limited trims?

locker écu plug and diff lock switch plug
 
Quick question,

When I back into a spot I usually do half a three point turn. Turn left to the curb house opposite of me and then when close to parallel the street I back in my spot. When I do this and only when I turn pest as opposed to right my antilock brake turns comes into play on the forward motion part of the half three point turn. Any idea why?

Cleaning the abs sensors won't hurt.
 
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