The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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I think I've figured out the issue. The access port on my driver side is on the right side of the drum. I had become convinced that the lever would somehow be on the right side, despite the parking brake spring being on the same side. When you confirmed that it's always on the forward side, I took another look, and I suspect that I have a passenger side backing plate on my driver side. That would explain why this task went from a PITA to seemingly impossible.

I'm gonna have to replace the drums anyway, so I think I'm just gonna take an angle grinder to the drum and cut a window on the forward side

if u look at the drum there r threaded holes that u can screw a bolt into that will pull the drum out/off
 
I'm just gonna take an angle grinder to the drum and cut a window on the forward side

Why do it the hard way !

There are two pins through backplate that hold shoes to backplate grind the 3/8" head off pin axle side of backplate
shoes will come off with drum using drum jack bolts. Then pull springs and all with drums.
 
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I think I've figured out the issue. The access port on my driver side is on the right side of the drum. I had become convinced that the lever would somehow be on the right side, despite the parking brake spring being on the same side. When you confirmed that it's always on the forward side, I took another look, and I suspect that I have a passenger side backing plate on my driver side. That would explain why this task went from a PITA to seemingly impossible.

Highly improbable to have a passenger-side axle on the driver side, unless you have no hand brake

The hand brake lever/cable connection is at the rearward side of the backplate, towards the rear bumper at around 7:00

I'm gonna have to replace the drums anyway, so I think I'm just gonna take an angle grinder to the drum and cut a window on the forward side

Brake drums are hard steel, not gonna be fun or easy to cut a hole in the face.

if u look at the drum there r threaded holes that u can screw a bolt into that will pull the drum out/off

When the brake shoes are locked on the drum the threaded holes become an exercise in futility

Why do it the hard way !

There are two pins through backplate that hold shoes to backplate grind the 3/8" head off pin axle side of backplate
shoes will come off with drum using drum jack bolts. Then pull springs and all with drums.

Doing it that way he will have to buy a new hardware kit.

Sometimes the "easy way" becomes more of a hassle and costly than the right way, but you guys are welcome to do as you like with your trucks and time
 
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I think I've figured out the issue. The access port on my driver side is on the right side of the drum. I had become convinced that the lever would somehow be on the right side, despite the parking brake spring being on the same side. When you confirmed that it's always on the forward side, I took another look, and I suspect that I have a passenger side backing plate on my driver side. That would explain why this task went from a PITA to seemingly impossible.

I'm gonna have to replace the drums anyway, so I think I'm just gonna take an angle grinder to the drum and cut a window on the forward side
Just to clarify, when we say forward side we mean the forward side of the top hole in the backing plate. Also, if you had the wrong backing plate then you wouldn’t have a parking brake. If you decide to cut the drum make sure you reference where the axle shaft hub/face is so you don’t damage the actual axle shaft. It would probably be easier and less damaging to take it to a mechanic to loosen the adjusters or cut the two shoe retaining pin heads off the backing plate. I always get a new hardware kit when I replace shoes. Hardware kits are cheap.
 
I have missed out on many vehicles in the past due to hesitation. So I impulse bought an automatic 2wd, and now I regret not waiting for a manual 4x4. The worst part is, now I am seeing reasonable 4x4s (though automatic) for sale. I recently moved and this was the best 4runner on CL at the time so I jumped on it.

Can I still get some love with the 2wd? I don't want to go crawling or anything, but I sure would like to get muddy at times. Ideally, I'd like to eventually replace it with a manual 4x4, and so I will mod it. And when I get my manual 4x4, I will swap the parts over. Sucks because if I just waited a couple of weeks, I would have had something that I would be much happier with. I am always paranoid about cars being no longer available because all enthusiast-owned now OR super overpriced because all enthusiast-owned now (like the BMW E30. I always figured that eventually I would get one, but now IF I find one, it will be superrrr expensive).

I guess I'm just looking for some reconciliation here. Does anybody rock a 2wd?

Also, I am a new resident of Fort Worth, TX. I would love to make some new friends and definitely hit up some nice roads that my 2wd will be capable of!
 
I have missed out on many vehicles in the past due to hesitation. So I impulse bought an automatic 2wd, and now I regret not waiting for a manual 4x4. The worst part is, now I am seeing reasonable 4x4s (though automatic) for sale. I recently moved and this was the best 4runner on CL at the time so I jumped on it.

Can I still get some love with the 2wd? I don't want to go crawling or anything, but I sure would like to get muddy at times. Ideally, I'd like to eventually replace it with a manual 4x4, and so I will mod it. And when I get my manual 4x4, I will swap the parts over. Sucks because if I just waited a couple of weeks, I would have had something that I would be much happier with. I am always paranoid about cars being no longer available because all enthusiast-owned now OR super overpriced because all enthusiast-owned now (like the BMW E30. I always figured that eventually I would get one, but now IF I find one, it will be superrrr expensive).

I guess I'm just looking for some reconciliation here. Does anybody rock a 2wd?

Also, I am a new resident of Fort Worth, TX. I would love to make some new friends and definitely hit up some nice roads that my 2wd will be capable of!
I know plenty of people that drive and do off-road type stuff with 2 wheel drive vehicles.. I was one of them for years. Look at the two links in my signature.

I ultimately ended up buying a manual 4x4 and am now hesitating/contemplating selling my two-wheel drive or keeping it for my kid.

You can obviously put money into the two-wheel drive and get it to be as close as you want it to be, understanding its limits, or you can flip it and just buy a four-wheel drive vehicle now.

I transferred all of my parts and upgrades over to my four-wheel drive so I didn't really lose any of my investment. The good news is that if you picked a good vehicle, the market is still the market.

Either way, you can't really lose. Welcome to the family, and the forum.
 
I've noticed coilovers like King, Icon, etc all have a little heim or ball joint going on at the top - can someone explain the reason for this? Perhaps to compensate for lacking a bushing or something?
 
First, thanks da_crew10 for setting up this Island of Misfit Toys for those of us that can't seem to create out own threads.

2000 4Runner, SR5 V6 with TRD supercharger, almost 400K miles.

My Toy suddenly started running rough, then Check Engine light came on. Pulled the codes - 1/3/5 misfires. Next morning, ran smooth again and Check Engine went off. Then suddenly rough (not as bad), Check Engine goes on again. Added BG44K. Next day, smooth for several trips, Check Engine goes off, then rough again - Check Engine. You get the idea. Three tanks of gas from three different stations as well - no change.

Replaced spark plugs, spark plug cables, coils. Ran smooth again.

Day later, the Check Engine on/off started again.

Anyone experience this? Something is creating misfires, then self-correcting.
 
1998 toyota 4runner AT 4wd - shaking

i have a 1998 toyota 4runner AT sr5 4wd, when i am in park it starts to shake at about 1500rpm and when i put it into drive it feels like it is working harder than it should to move forward, have to rev it up quite a bit for it to move but it will go into and move just fine in reverse. just looking for some direction on where to start looking. thank you in advance!!
 
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i have a 1998 toyota 4runner AT sr5 4wd, when i am in park it starts to shake at about 1500rpm and when i put it into drive it feels like it is working harder than it should to move forward, have to rev it up quite a bit for it to move but it will go into and move just fine in reverse. just looking for some direction on where to start looking. thank you in advance!!
Could be anything from a misfire to failed injector to broken flexplate. What engine and are there any codes set?
 
I've noticed coilovers like King, Icon, etc all have a little heim or ball joint going on at the top - can someone explain the reason for this? Perhaps to compensate for lacking a bushing or something?

My best guess, and not backed by anything I've ever seen or read, would be that maybe it could offer a little bit better articulation, if any? Just a guess to be honest with you. I'd be curious to know the actual answer.
 
My best guess, and not backed by anything I've ever seen or read, would be that maybe it could offer a little bit better articulation, if any? Just a guess to be honest with you. I'd be curious to know the actual answer.

After some more digging I'm pretty sure I was getting it confused with shocks that have eyelets at both ends
I was debating adding coilover sleeves to my 5100s and I was most just curious if doing so would be that simple or if there's something else I'm missing with adjustable coilovers. Lookin like it's gonna be that easy :fishing:
 
Anybody replace their brake dust shield and have the part number on hand? I'm finding two sets of numbers from Toyota, they say both will fit so I'm assuming one is 2WD and one is 4WD? I really can't spot any huge differences, but one of them is 2.5x the cost of the other so clearly they're not the same part... Currently I see no reason to get the more expensive ones, but since you can only swap the brake dust shield during wheel bearing changes I'd prefer to only do it once

47703-35091/47704-35091 (cheaper one, $35/ea)
47703-35101/47704-35101 (expensive, $89/ea)
 
2001 4runner transmission issue

I have a 2001 4runner. It lost Reverse so I bought a donor 1999 4runner. I matched the A340f transmission and dropped off at my Mechanic to do the swap.
He had personal issues and it sat for almost 6 months. The Mechanic that pulled the donor Trans was not the same person to install in the 2001 4runner. Everything bolted up, when they went to hook up the wiring the plugs are different. The Mechanic tells me the trans that came out is an A340f 3d830 and the one I bought as replacement is an A340f 3g100. Can anyone help me out? His solution is to scrap the truck or get a rebuilt Trans for over $3k. This 4runner was bought for my daughter to drive and the body has no rust. I have everything from the donor 4runner except the wiring harness that was cut when they pulled the trans.
Thanks for any help!
 
I have a 2001 4runner. It lost Reverse so I bought a donor 1999 4runner. I matched the A340f transmission and dropped off at my Mechanic to do the swap.
He had personal issues and it sat for almost 6 months. The Mechanic that pulled the donor Trans was not the same person to install in the 2001 4runner. Everything bolted up, when they went to hook up the wiring the plugs are different. The Mechanic tells me the trans that came out is an A340f 3d830 and the one I bought as replacement is an A340f 3g100. Can anyone help me out? His solution is to scrap the truck or get a rebuilt Trans for over $3k. This 4runner was bought for my daughter to drive and the body has no rust. I have everything from the donor 4runner except the wiring harness that was cut when they pulled the trans.
Thanks for any help!
He is correct. There are many A340F variants (not all of them limited to Toyota) and you must buy a transmission from the same sub-generation as you (01-02), and I believe even the same model as the transfer case differences can mess with things too. Even if you did force the plugs it still wouldn't shift right as the valve body inside is completely different. Here's a thread with more info: 2000-02 A340F vs pre-00 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum. 4Runners were not as lucky as, say, old Honda Civics with their transmission compatibility
 
Anybody replace their brake dust shield and have the part number on hand? I'm finding two sets of numbers from Toyota, they say both will fit so I'm assuming one is 2WD and one is 4WD? I really can't spot any huge differences, but one of them is 2.5x the cost of the other so clearly they're not the same part... Currently I see no reason to get the more expensive ones, but since you can only swap the brake dust shield during wheel bearing changes I'd prefer to only do it once

47703-35091/47704-35091 (cheaper one, $35/ea)
47703-35101/47704-35101 (expensive, $89/ea)
I usually have better luck looking up fitment on parts.Toyota.com, but both those part numbers show to be for 2wd and 4wd 4Runners for 96-02. The only fitment difference I can see is 35091 shows to fit Tacoma’s as well. You might have to call the dealership parts department with your VIN and see if they can tell the difference.
 
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