The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
- Start date
- Status
I'd check the before and after and c if they even touched ur camber bolts... if they legitimately can't, id check that ur control arm bushing aren't shot... the only issue u should be having (assuming ur not running aftermarket UCAs for said) is caster. who did the alignment?
Venka93
New member
This can happen when the chamber adjusting sleeves get frozen inside the lower control arm bushings. I’m in the middle of changing my LCA bushings and one of my sleeves was a pain to get out.
da_crew10
New member
Will check those out. They said they were checking the lca bushings to see if they were shot and they said they appeared good. Im going to check that next to make sure its not stuck.
Anyway never ending story with this new rig. Was taking a drive with the family to go hike. About halfway the 4runner started overheating (90 degree weather and pretty hilly road, not that it should matter). I stopped to let it cool down, upon opening the hood i hear the overflow bubling hot with coolant.
Once cool went back on the road. Started over heating again so i stop to let it cool down. This time I turned the ac off once I got back on the road and it did not overheat at all. I tested to see if this was the reason it was overheating once I got 5 miles close to home I turned the ac back on and behold it overheated again but started to cool down once I turned it back off.
Got home pulled the cap and it had no retention and no visible spring, also looks to be the oem cap and radiator if that info matters. I checked my 1st gen tacoma cap and it has a spring that compresses when closing the cap on the radiator.
What could be causing this? Thermostat is my guess, maybe radiator fins clogged? Radiator cap?
Anyway never ending story with this new rig. Was taking a drive with the family to go hike. About halfway the 4runner started overheating (90 degree weather and pretty hilly road, not that it should matter). I stopped to let it cool down, upon opening the hood i hear the overflow bubling hot with coolant.
Once cool went back on the road. Started over heating again so i stop to let it cool down. This time I turned the ac off once I got back on the road and it did not overheat at all. I tested to see if this was the reason it was overheating once I got 5 miles close to home I turned the ac back on and behold it overheated again but started to cool down once I turned it back off.
Got home pulled the cap and it had no retention and no visible spring, also looks to be the oem cap and radiator if that info matters. I checked my 1st gen tacoma cap and it has a spring that compresses when closing the cap on the radiator.
What could be causing this? Thermostat is my guess, maybe radiator fins clogged? Radiator cap?
Last edited:
Dieselchessy
New member
Too many details left out.
How much coolant was in the radiator?
Was the fan spinning properly (fast)?
It sounds to me like your coolant level is most likely low. Or less likely your fan clutch failed.
Low coolant could be caused by many different issues.
In the future if your rig runs hot and you need to limp home. Turn the AC off, turn both the front and rear heat on high, roll the windows down if needed, put the tranny in D, turn overdrive off. The idea is to maximize cooling capacity and to reduce heating capacity to help the rig get you home.
How much coolant was in the radiator?
Was the fan spinning properly (fast)?
It sounds to me like your coolant level is most likely low. Or less likely your fan clutch failed.
Low coolant could be caused by many different issues.
In the future if your rig runs hot and you need to limp home. Turn the AC off, turn both the front and rear heat on high, roll the windows down if needed, put the tranny in D, turn overdrive off. The idea is to maximize cooling capacity and to reduce heating capacity to help the rig get you home.
Dieselchessy
New member
Too many details left out.
How much coolant was in the radiator?
Was the fan spinning properly (fast)?
It sounds to me like your coolant level is most likely low. Or less likely your fan clutch failed.
Low coolant could be caused by many different issues.
Radiator could be clogged. Should be able to drain till you can see the tops of the channels in the cap.
In the future if your rig runs hot and you need to limp home. Turn the AC off, turn both the front and rear heat on high, roll the windows down if needed, put the tranny in D, turn overdrive off. The idea is to maximize cooling capacity and to reduce heating capacity to help the rig get you home.
And don’t try to overheat your rig. That’s not a good testing method.
How much coolant was in the radiator?
Was the fan spinning properly (fast)?
It sounds to me like your coolant level is most likely low. Or less likely your fan clutch failed.
Low coolant could be caused by many different issues.
Radiator could be clogged. Should be able to drain till you can see the tops of the channels in the cap.
In the future if your rig runs hot and you need to limp home. Turn the AC off, turn both the front and rear heat on high, roll the windows down if needed, put the tranny in D, turn overdrive off. The idea is to maximize cooling capacity and to reduce heating capacity to help the rig get you home.
And don’t try to overheat your rig. That’s not a good testing method.
Last edited:
da_crew10
New member
Thanks for your insite. It was fairly low somehow on coolant. The radiator cap was not in working order. Filled it up, took some air out, put the new cap and hasnt overheated since. Wish me luck that it stays like that.
Dieselchessy
New member
When the rig is cold and radiator completely filled, fill your expansion tank up to exactly the line.
Then every morning when the rig is cold check the expansion tank.
If the level keeps dropping your consuming (loosing) coolant.
You can limp it along like that by keeping the expansion tank filled. The radiator will suck in coolant as it cools.
Assuming your rig isn’t losing coolant to fast.
Then you need to find the issue. Common issues are leaking water pump, leaking head gasket, leaking heater controll valve, rusted and leaking rear heater core lines, hoses, ect....
Sounds like your radiator cap failed and wouldn't hold pressure. Coolant boils at a higher temp under pressure. Without a working radiator cap to allow it to build pressure your coolant will boil a lot sooner. When's the last time the radiator was replaced?
da_crew10
New member
That explains the boiling sounds. As far as the radiator looks like the factory unit to me. Why do you ask?
when was the last time timing belt, waterpump and thermostat replaced. Same with radiator. Some say replace radiator every 10 years...esp if an automatic to help avoid oink milkshake and trashing your tranny.
Lots of debates on all this..like only use Asin h20pump and factory thermostat and radiator cap. And many say only use denso or factory radiator.
And radiator jiggle valve needs to be at 6am.
Super low on fluids...might need to burp it...youve got lines higher than the radiator cap and when burping have rear heater on. However some dont burp and just keep adding fluid till it burps on its own.
Lots of debates on all this..like only use Asin h20pump and factory thermostat and radiator cap. And many say only use denso or factory radiator.
And radiator jiggle valve needs to be at 6am.
Super low on fluids...might need to burp it...youve got lines higher than the radiator cap and when burping have rear heater on. However some dont burp and just keep adding fluid till it burps on its own.
da_crew10
New member
Guy I bought it from showed me proof of new belt water pump and tensioner pullie about 8k miles ago. Pretty sure they were not oem components though. Oem all the way from here on out on my 1st gen tacoma and 3rd gen 4runner. Learned my lesson.
If the transmission cooler in the radiator fails then coolant and transmission fluid mix causing the dreaded "pink milkshake" in the transmission. 99.9999 percent of the time it leads to total transmission failure and replacement. A good rule of thumb is replace the radiator every 10 years or 100k miles if you decide not to bypass the in radiator transmission cooler and use an external cooler. Keep in mind that the radiator can visually look good on the outside but you have no way to inspect the transmission cooler components in the radiator. They are subject to a lot of vibration which seems to be the main culprit.
Devbot
New member
wheel backspacing?
Still rocking stock suspension for the moment, and currently looking into new wheels after recently buying some Goodrich A/Ts, but know nothing about sizing let alone fitment. I'm thinking about swapping the stock rim size for some 16x8 wheels - but how do I know to chose between 4.25in and 4in of BS? Do either require trimming, spacers, etc, or will it clear alright as-is? Anybody have comparison pics? Believe the tires I'm buying are 275s, if memory serves me right.
FYI I do plan to buy a 3in OME kit, just got a really good deal on these and would preferably like to do it asap (desperately need an alignment)
Still rocking stock suspension for the moment, and currently looking into new wheels after recently buying some Goodrich A/Ts, but know nothing about sizing let alone fitment. I'm thinking about swapping the stock rim size for some 16x8 wheels - but how do I know to chose between 4.25in and 4in of BS? Do either require trimming, spacers, etc, or will it clear alright as-is? Anybody have comparison pics? Believe the tires I'm buying are 275s, if memory serves me right.
FYI I do plan to buy a 3in OME kit, just got a really good deal on these and would preferably like to do it asap (desperately need an alignment)
da_crew10
New member
To run on a factory suspension you will need to hammer pinch welds, now what height is the tire? 275 is just the width, and with that width you will need spacers to not rub the uca.
Gongshow
New member
Spark Plug recommendations
I've had my 96 Tacoma for 20 years and last year bought a '99 4Runner 4x4 3.4L. I know that they need the double electrode plugs but wanted to get your thoughts on which plugs I should go with on the Runner.
Denso Double Platinum
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/double-platinum-3369/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/denso-double-platinum-spark-plug/3289/5269628/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=8
NGK Copper Core
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/copper-core-4441/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/ngk-copper-core-plug-number-3967-spark-plug/3967/4537048/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=18
Regular Denso
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/denso-3367/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/denso-spark-plug/3194/4240305/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=20
I've had my 96 Tacoma for 20 years and last year bought a '99 4Runner 4x4 3.4L. I know that they need the double electrode plugs but wanted to get your thoughts on which plugs I should go with on the Runner.
Denso Double Platinum
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/double-platinum-3369/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/denso-double-platinum-spark-plug/3289/5269628/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=8
NGK Copper Core
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/copper-core-4441/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/ngk-copper-core-plug-number-3967-spark-plug/3967/4537048/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=18
Regular Denso
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/denso-3367/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/denso-spark-plug/3194/4240305/1999/toyota/4runner?q=spark+plug&pos=20
Devbot
New member
Thanks for the help but the deal fell through! Long story short I was buying them from a coworker (for only $450!) and was aiming to pick them up today, but a mutual friend of ours offered to trade an entire body lift kit for the set. Which is fine, I'm obviously not ready for new wheels right now anyways
Thank you anyways, friend
da_crew10
New member
I just installed the regular densos, they cross reference to the exact oem part number. My rig is runing great. Either way Denso or NGK are known in our t4r's to be great options.
Devbot
New member
spacers or no spacers??
So I've been looking into getting some steelies recently, and decided on 16x8 with 4.0BS since I saw lots of good things said about this set up, and think it looks badass to boot. I plan to throw some 285/75s on them, and will be done with a 3in lift
However, I see lots of people on here say they run various wheels with these specs without problems, but damn near everytime I find a set I like the reviews on the webstore mention someone with a 3rd gen T4R needing 0.25-0.5in spacers to clear. Is this something dependent on the wheel? Maybe pertains to 13WL/13WG calipers? I do plan on doing the TBU in the next few months, fwiw
Just confirming what I need to buy
So I've been looking into getting some steelies recently, and decided on 16x8 with 4.0BS since I saw lots of good things said about this set up, and think it looks badass to boot. I plan to throw some 285/75s on them, and will be done with a 3in lift
However, I see lots of people on here say they run various wheels with these specs without problems, but damn near everytime I find a set I like the reviews on the webstore mention someone with a 3rd gen T4R needing 0.25-0.5in spacers to clear. Is this something dependent on the wheel? Maybe pertains to 13WL/13WG calipers? I do plan on doing the TBU in the next few months, fwiw
Just confirming what I need to buy
285s would be cutting it close with a 3inch lift but all you need is a 'BFh and thatll fix that..
i believe the difference in calipers are between 15inch factory brake setups
& 16 inch factory setups
Also the upper balljoint/UCA may hit the inside sidewall probly should order a .25 " spacer
- Status
