The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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285s would be cutting it close with a 3inch lift but all you need is a 'BFh and thatll fix that..

i believe the difference in calipers are between 15inch factory brake setups
& 16 inch factory setups

Also the upper balljoint/UCA may hit the inside sidewall probly should order a .25 " spacer
Gotcha, thanks for the reply. I'm not concerned about running the spacers per se, I just don't want to install everything, find out I need them and not have them. I guess it would be dependent on the tire too, and should've been said that I plan to buy some BFG A/T K02

Still open for other's experiences
 
The rear swaybar links from a 2nd gen will work up front (with a lift), correct? Anybody have the part number? Struggling to find it for some reason.
Gonna need to extend mine.
 
Thank you, that'll do. Certainly wasn't about to pay the $220 for a new set, or whatever it is.

Yo sorry for the late reply you could also run front sway bar links for a 3rd gen in the rear. That’s what my setup is and works great I have about a 5inch lift in the rear

you ever get the tires?

How’d everything fit?
 
Yo sorry for the late reply you could also run front sway bar links for a 3rd gen in the rear. That’s what my setup is and works great I have about a 5inch lift in the rear

you ever get the tires?

How’d everything fit?

A word of Caution on Extended Swaybar Links. I had a 1.5 inch rear lift and put the 1.5 inch longer rear sway links. The links contact the LCA if they are too long. A good rule of thumb is to go up a 1/2 in length for every 1" of lift. I'm running stock sway links on the rear of my 3rd Gen now with my 1.5 lift and its just fine.

With the 7 wraps I had before, the extended links were still a bit long, and did contact the LCA at full compression.
 
Well that sound like you extended the sway bar links too much with not enough lift, I’m sure that’d be a problem what links did you use?
 
Yo sorry for the late reply you could also run front sway bar links for a 3rd gen in the rear. That’s what my setup is and works great I have about a 5inch lift in the rear

you ever get the tires?

How’d everything fit?
Haven't put on anything yet, waiting to get my parts for a lift in, but first waiting on Sonoran Steel to email me back before I commit
 
Hey guys... Tired of driving blind in our 2000 4runner. Finally got a little money to upgrade the lighting.

Are any members selling headlight upgrade kits for our 3rd gens? Mainly just looking for an easy plug and go wiring / relay upgrade for some better bulbs.

Any suggestions on headlight housings? Wouldnt mind some with a good cutoff. I didnt see any real nice ones. HID would be fine if its legit and OEM style so it doesnt blind everyone else.


Thanks
 
Checking Transmission Fluid Level...

I did the TTTM special a few weeks ago. Drained 4.5 qts. from the pan and added about the same. It seemed to be shifting differently so I checked the fluid when hot and cold and it was way over filled. I suspect it was that way before I did a thing and shame on me for not checking the fluid level first.

I pumped out almost 2 qts. using the fill tube and it seems to be shifting normally. The fluid level is now just slightly above the top cold full mark when cold.

Getting an accurate dipstick reading when at operating temp (and engine idling) seems to be a challenge for me and a real PITA.

Anyhoo, here's my question: Can I use the cold fill mark to indicate the correct transmission fluid level?


Thanks,

Eddie
 
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Shaking after 60

Hey, i bought my 01 2wd 4runner about 2 months ago, 330,000 and the engine still kicks ass. But he was having problems with it shaking slightly around 60mph. About 3 days after buying it, my lower ball joint failed, luckily i was only doing 10. Tire got sucked under the car and had to replace both joints and the tie rod on passenger side. Mother shook horribly I went and had the alignment done, and the tires rebalanced. It helped alot, but it is still shaking at around 60, and drifts hard to the right. U joints are good and i have very little play in my out put shaft. Im at a loss. Steering stabilizer, shocks? Any idea guys?
 
Question hear its quite the problem. Replaced my VSC computer module since the speedometer/odometer stopped work P0500 code. It fixed that code but since then i have not been able to drive the car due to the VSC kicking in and killing power to the car. It thinks it is skidding at all times (can't even leave my driveway). Tried to do a ZP calibration but it doesn't seem to want to calibrate, even tried getting a Toyota dealership to do it but no luck. Currently it has the C1336 code since i am unable to do a ZP calibration.

What i have replaced:
VSC computer module - tried 3 different ones from the junkyard
ABS wheel sensors (only the rear ones)
yaw sensor + deceleration sensor

Any help would be great! Thank you!
 
Hey, i bought my 01 2wd 4runner about 2 months ago, 330,000 and the engine still kicks ass. But he was having problems with it shaking slightly around 60mph. About 3 days after buying it, my lower ball joint failed, luckily i was only doing 10. Tire got sucked under the car and had to replace both joints and the tie rod on passenger side. Mother shook horribly I went and had the alignment done, and the tires rebalanced. It helped alot, but it is still shaking at around 60, and drifts hard to the right. U joints are good and i have very little play in my out put shaft. Im at a loss. Steering stabilizer, shocks? Any idea guys?

Woah, you got really lucky! Whew, glad to hear it.

Have you checked your sway bar end links? Mine was acting similarly until I realized that one of them had snapped. If those are good, check your bushings all around.
 
Question hear its quite the problem. Replaced my VSC computer module since the speedometer/odometer stopped work P0500 code. It fixed that code but since then i have not been able to drive the car due to the VSC kicking in and killing power to the car. It thinks it is skidding at all times (can't even leave my driveway). Tried to do a ZP calibration but it doesn't seem to want to calibrate, even tried getting a Toyota dealership to do it but no luck. Currently it has the C1336 code since i am unable to do a ZP calibration.

What i have replaced:
VSC computer module - tried 3 different ones from the junkyard
ABS wheel sensors (only the rear ones)
yaw sensor + deceleration sensor

Any help would be great! Thank you!

Here is a link that was in my archives not sure if it would help nevertheless here you go.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAQegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3h2m26MaS3le33wbxKnMbm
 
Could the pinouts be different? Seems like its not seeing the speedo signal

Oh the speedo works with the replaced VSC computer modules. It's just that i am unable to drive at all since i've replaced the VSC computer module. The original is actually dead in terms of the speedo/odo.
 
Woah, you got really lucky! Whew, glad to hear it.

Have you checked your sway bar end links? Mine was acting similarly until I realized that one of them had snapped. If those are good, check your bushings all around.
Have you ruled out the wheel being bent?
 
da_crew10;3500401 Also finished the valve covers last night. Question from this pic how good or bad does it look? 253k miles <img src="https://i.ibb.co/fNcC0JY/18961.jpg" alt="18961" border="0">[/QUOTE said:
The valve area looks perfect...exactly as it should look. Similar to my '97 at 120K.
 
Currently it has the C1336 code since i am unable to do a ZP calibration.
What i have replaced:
VSC computer module - tried 3 different ones from the junkyard
ABS wheel sensors (only the rear ones)
yaw sensor + deceleration sensor...

What year Runner 01 02 ? if it is this applies:
There are two VSC modules available, both for 2 or 4 wheel drive. The kicker is one is for 15" wheels, one for 16" wheels.
Purchased 01 with bad VSC module, There's a reason (don't know why) 15" 16" makes a difference or the effects.
Use module your VIN specifies for OE wheel size.
You may have lucked out with a mix up, all I can think of, Good Luck.
 
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