The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Bad Luck]

I did the TTTM special a few weeks ago. Drained 4.5 qts. from the pan and added about the same. It seemed to be shifting differently so I checked the fluid when hot and cold and it was way over filled. I suspect it was that way before I did a thing and shame on me for not checking the fluid level first.

I pumped out almost 2 qts. using the fill tube and it seems to be shifting normally. The fluid level is now just slightly above the top cold full mark when cold.

Getting an accurate dipstick reading when at operating temp (and engine idling) seems to be a challenge for me and a real PITA.

Anyhoo, here's my question: Can I use the cold fill mark to indicate the correct transmission fluid level?

Thanks,

Eddie

Cold fill level is to make sure you have enough fluid to operate the transmission in order for the transmission fluid to reach operating temperature for you to perform a hot level check. Make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground, transmission is at operating temp, engine is running, and transmission is in park for a hot level check.

Cold level check should be done on level ground, engine running, and transmission in park after spending 5-10 seconds in each gear selector position.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Thanks Bad Luck.

I was just checking it cold (like after sitting overnight) and not following those specific steps. I will do hot and cold check later today.

The main problem with a hot check for me was getting an accurate read on the dipstick. The fluid mark is not clearly delineated.

Thanks again,

Eddie

Cold fill level is to make sure you have enough fluid to operate the transmission in order for the transmission fluid to reach operating temperature for you to perform a hot level check. Make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground, transmission is at operating temp, engine is running, and transmission is in park for a hot level check.

Cold level check should be done on level ground, engine running, and transmission in park after spending 5-10 seconds in each gear selector position.

 

[jaywonger]

What year Runner 01 02 ? if it is this applies:
There are two VSC modules available, both for 2 or 4 wheel drive. The kicker is one is for 15" wheels, one for 16" wheels.
Purchased 01 with bad VSC module, There's a reason (don't know why) 15" 16" makes a difference or the effects.
Use module your VIN specifies for OE wheel size.
You may have lucked out with a mix up, all I can think of, Good Luck.

Mines an 02 and I ended up getting the same part number as the original one. #89540-35270. Just don't know what to do anymore for it.

 

[96RedRunner]

#89540-35270. Just don't know what to do anymore for it.

Figured but thru out info, same one I use. I dread the day mine acts up.
Easiest route what I'll do and another did on his, Andy Mod Andy MOD 2.0 w/real TRAC Off Switch - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum.
Variations of this mod exist, allowing you to turn off all or portions of ABS VSC Trac. ABS/VSC/TRAC Disable Master Thread - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum.
The FSM starts pg DI-221, use disable till problems figured out.

 

[jaywonger]

Figured but thru out info, same one I use. I dread the day mine acts up.
Easiest route what I'll do and another did on his, Andy Mod Andy MOD 2.0 w/real TRAC Off Switch - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum.
Variations of this mod exist, allowing you to turn off all or portions of ABS VSC Trac. ABS/VSC/TRAC Disable Master Thread - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum.
The FSM starts pg DI-221, use disable till problems figured out.

I ended up doing Andy MOD 2.0 which fixes the VSC problem of killing my engine power, but my abs still kicks in when i brake every time. Do you know where the ABS computer is located or is it the same part that i replaced?

 

[96RedRunner]

Do you know where the ABS computer is located or is it the same part that i replaced?

Part of module you replaced

 

[jaywonger]

Part of module you replaced

Oh yes, that's what i replaced. I ended up pulling ABS1 fuse and its drive-able. Thoughts if the black module on the brake master cylinder could be causing the ABS to go off while i brake every time (with ABS1 fuse in).

 

[JoshuaDudee]

Alright I'm stumped..

My side mirrors will not move anymore from the controls.. I have checked the fuses. They're all good. I replaced the controller on the drivers door still no luck. For some odd reason there is no power going to the controller..

Any ideas are much appreciated [emoji41]

 

[Skulking]

Alright I'm stumped..

My side mirrors will not move anymore from the controls.. I have checked the fuses. They're all good. I replaced the controller on the drivers door still no luck. For some odd reason there is no power going to the controller..

Any ideas are much appreciated [emoji41]

Where the wiring runs out of the body and into the door is a known failure point on these cars. That would be the first thing I would check. I'm not sure if a broken wire in one door would affect both mirrors though.

This video is for the rear hatch, but covers the same issue of broken wires and how to repair them if needed.

Edit: Just reread that you don't have power going to the the controller, have you actually checked to see if you have power at the connector that plugs in to the switch panel?

 

[Ryan V]

Is this a fair price? I have never purchased a 4runner before, and I would like some experienced advice.

Here is the info from the sale post:

Listed price: 8500
Mileage: 213k

"I have a 3rd Generation 1998 4Runner 4x4 in decent condition with a few exceptions.
The good: everything works on it and it's ready to roll. Lots of maintenance has been completed using Toyota parts

Complete rebuild on the heads (213k mi)
Pass CV Boots/Joints/Axle (213k)
Oil Pan Gasket (213k)
New battery from Toyota (213k)
New plugs and coils (209k)
New radiator belts and hoses (209k)
Driver CV Boots/Joints/Axle (209k)
Timing belt and water pump @ 209K (I always had those done at the same time)
New Brakes (200k)
New rack & pinion (190k)
New automatic window switches (recently, but don't remember miles)
SS Lift Kit (175k)
New rear axle seals (175k)
New Borla exhaust (175k)
Lift Kit (175k)
Torque converter (150k)
New Rubber Door Seals (150k)
New plug wire harness (150k)

You can tell by the photos I installed a suspension lift and tire/wheel package, its the Sonora Steel 1.2 lift with a set of 33's so its got a nice ride height. The interior is in great condition for the age. Those seat covers were originally sold at Toyota and still look amazing. I added a pair of hood struts so I didn't have to deal with that wacky half-baked prop-up stick. Also replaced the tail-gate struts. I've had this truck since 2002 and am the 2nd owner. It runs great and its been my daily driver for some time but I'm working from home now so miles probably won't increase too much. Never, ever, smoked in.

Now the rough: sadly, it has a couple dings, one on the rocker panel and one on the back tail gate."

 

[Devbot]

Is there any particular reason why people run Tundra TRD coils in front but NOT the rear?

 

[JoshuaDudee]

Where the wiring runs out of the body and into the door is a known failure point on these cars. That would be the first thing I would check. I'm not sure if a broken wire in one door would affect both mirrors though.

This video is for the rear hatch, but covers the same issue of broken wires and how to repair them if needed.

Edit: Just reread that you don't have power going to the the controller, have you actually checked to see if you have power at the connector that plugs in to the switch panel?

No there is no power going to the connector at all. (the pins show no power when I use a multimeter)
I just took apart the door panel, and all the wires look perfect. No cracks or exposed wires..

EDIT:
I actually do have power..
Only on this one pin though..

EDIT EDIT:
I have power on all pins once I press a button on the switch. Do you think possibly a bad ground could cause this? And does anyone know where the ground is for this switch [emoji23]
Not sure what to do now damn it..

 

[Skulking]

No there is no power going to the connector at all. (the pins show no power when I use a multimeter)
I just took apart the door panel, and all the wires look perfect. No cracks or exposed wires..

EDIT:
I actually do have power..
Only on this one pin though.. Not sure what to do now damn it..

What year is your 4runner? I only have electrical diagrams for my 2000, and I know that year to year there are differences, if you make the request someone else may have the diagrams for your year.

Based on the diagram for my 2000 (Attached) that is pin 9 which is the only pin which should have power. Pin 10 which is the pin to the left of the pin with power in the photo you attached should always have continuity with ground. The rest of the pins are used to distribute power based on the switches being pressed. Assuming you have a 2000 or at least the same mirror wiring as a 2000, and you have 12v pin 9 to ground and continuity pin 10 to ground, then you have power and it is either both mirror switches you have tried, or it is a problem with wiring running from the switches to the mirror motors.

 

[96RedRunner]

Thoughts if the black module on the brake master cylinder could be causing the ABS to go off while i brake every time (with ABS1 fuse in).

Not being able to get the ZP Cal to complete I think is the problem.
The MC is working, it's just confused. The sensors you replaced tell orientation of vehicle to module, module telling MC to do it's thing.
3 relays for system on right inner fender could be a problem, I doubt it because system is kicking in, worth checking I'd say.
Troubleshooting Info is limited in FSM brake section, net not much help either. Toyota used last two years of 3rd gen to get it right for 4th gen.

 

[OpenYota]

What are the part numbers for the gasket and bolts/nuts for the flange where the cat converter meets the exhaust pipe?

 

[jaywonger]

Not being able to get the ZP Cal to complete I think is the problem.
The MC is working, it's just confused. The sensors you replaced tell orientation of vehicle to module, module telling MC to do it's thing.
3 relays for system on right inner fender could be a problem, I doubt it because system is kicking in, worth checking I'd say.
Troubleshooting Info is limited in FSM brake section, net not much help either. Toyota used last two years of 3rd gen to get it right for 4th gen.

Ah i see. I replaced one of those relays back in Feb. Which fixed a code problem. The other ones seem to be alright. I just don't not know what else to do to try and get to ZP cal.

 

[Bad Luck]

Is there any particular reason why people run Tundra TRD coils in front but NOT the rear?

Tundra's only have front coil springs and they don't fit in the rear of a 4Runner.

 

[JoeT4R]

Does anyone run their ECT PWR mode full time? Is it okay to do so? I have been lately for the last couple hundred miles or so but haven’t noticed much change in MPG’s if any at all.
What has your experience with it been like?

 

[RodrickHeffley]

What's the best approach to replacing the steering wheel? I know I saw one at the local junkyard but it didn't have an airbag.

Also, my engine is spitting code 'P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1'
I know there's a bunch of probable causes of this code according to Google.
What most likely is the issue?

 

[Skulking]

Does anyone run their ECT PWR mode full time? Is it okay to do so? I have been lately for the last couple hundred miles or so but haven’t noticed much change in MPG’s if any at all.
What has your experience with it been like?

It's fine. It just adjusts the shift points to help you stay in the power band more when towing. Obviously it does impact mileage some, but if you aren't noticing a difference, then the impact is likely negligible for your driving patterns.