The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Thank you! Will definitely look into both of those as well. Going to do most of the work myself, but found McGeorge Toyota has a lot of good deals on OEM parts.
Check amayama.com, partsouq.com, and parts.Toyota.com as well for pricing. Amayama and partsouq are overseas so shipping takes longer but they usually are cheaper even with shipping in my experience.
 
Does anyone know what could cause it to not start as strong when doing a warm start? Cold start it fires up and sounds strong, but after getting to temp and letting sit for a few minutes and restarting it doesn't start as strong. Takes about the same amount of time to start and doesn't require multiple tries or anything, just kind of stutters a little bit but runs just fine after. Fuel pump issue?

My old 2000 tacoma did the same thing but never looked into it.
 
Check amayama.com, partsouq.com, and parts.Toyota.com as well for pricing. Amayama and partsouq are overseas so shipping takes longer but they usually are cheaper even with shipping in my experience.

Perfect. Will check those as well. Thank you. :drummer:
 
2000 4runner - Sony WX 920 BT - Complete Harness?

I purchased the Sony HU from crutchfield, and it included an metra adapter harness with instructions. Installation involved splicing 14 wires between the 16 pin sony connector and the two toyota connectors. I did the best i could to forge a good connection but it just looks kinda jury rigged and half assed.

So im thinking i might try either making my own harness and copy the pin assignments OR just buy a plug and play complete and be done with it. So i want to ask if anyones made there own harness OR found a 2000 4runner sony HU compatible harness> Im looking at these but not sure if it will work or not: Amazon.com: Sony Aftermarket Radio Install kit (Compatible with Toyota and Subaru) - Direct Wiring Harness for aftermarket Stereo Compatible with 4runner, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, BRZ, WRX, and Impreza : Electronics
 
My 1999 limited started whistling/squealing while accelerating. It tends to start around the 20mph mark and gets loudest when I take my foot off the accelerator. Anyone know what could be causing this?

Here’s a video that captures the sound:

Whistle identification - Album on Imgur

It sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side but I can’t tell for sure. I also previously had a code for a lean air/fuel ratio however I replaced a vacuum hose about 800 miles ago and the code hasn’t returned since so I don’t think it’s from a vacuum leak.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Does it do it just idling or revving in park? Does it have to be moving?
 
As I got in the truck today, I went to roll my driver window down and it wouldn't go. After messing with it for a bit it went down a few inches and stopped. Then I couldn't get it to roll back up. I'm assuming this is my sign that the motor is on its way out. Is there anything else it could be? Is it a simple swap to put a new motor in? I've done zero research on this topic because I've never had it happen before. Let me know your thoughts.

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Well now it's going down and up just fine. I'm going to monitor this for a while. I'm wondering if maybe it just got a bit wet this morning when at the drive through to get coffee and it was raining outside.

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Only when driving. Doesn’t happen at really slow speeds but when I hit 15-20 mph it starts and when I take my foot off the accelerator it gets louder which is what you hear about half way through the video I posted. I also feel like when I’m driving 60+ I don’t hear it as often but that might just be because the engine is running louder and draining out the sound. It’s also not very constant. It’ll sometimes stop for a few seconds randomly and then start back up
Does it get louder with vehicle speed or engine speed? Have you been able to do anything to cause it to happen or make it stop happening?
 
No it’s always the same volume. Haven’t replaced anything but a vacuum hose and some suspension parts (lca’s, sway bar links, tie rods, and steering rack bushing/mounting hardware). I double checked the new hose I installed isn’t damaged and it looks good plus that solved my vacuum leak engine code (no lean air/fuel code for the past 800 miles)
Without knowing what makes the noise change I can't help you anymore. Good luck.
 
Only when driving. Doesn’t happen at really slow speeds but when I hit 15-20 mph it starts and when I take my foot off the accelerator it gets louder which is what you hear about half way through the video I posted. I also feel like when I’m driving 60+ I don’t hear it as often but that might just be because the engine is running louder and draining out the sound. It’s also not very constant. It’ll sometimes stop for a few seconds randomly and then start back up

Check the power steering belt. infact check the tension on the other two belts as well.
edit. could be the blower fan need greasing.
 
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What's the consensus on upper ball joints? It's a 2wd so will not be doing anything crazy but it's a 97 with 250k miles and I will be modifying the suspension. I won't be doing the work myself, and I've spent a lot of money already. Can I get away with just doing the lower ball joints?

Advice on mufflers? Is something like this okay? I have heard Borlas in the past and I like the way they sound, but there are so many models. I don't want it to be very loud. And I don't want drone. But a nice aftermarket rumble would be nice.

Also, any recommended shops in DFW? Or anyone who would be willing to help me with some wrenching? Just some minor maintenance stuff like oil changes and ignition components. I live in an apartment and don't have a garage (I have experience working on cars, just need a hand and a friend).

Also, anybody interested in stock wheels, roof rack, and side steps? *Pictures here*

Thanks!
 
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I purchased the Sony HU from crutchfield, and it included an metra adapter harness with instructions. Installation involved splicing 14 wires between the 16 pin sony connector and the two toyota connectors. I did the best i could to forge a good connection but it just looks kinda jury rigged and half assed.

So im thinking i might try either making my own harness and copy the pin assignments OR just buy a plug and play complete and be done with it. So i want to ask if anyones made there own harness OR found a 2000 4runner sony HU compatible harness> Im looking at these but not sure if it will work or not: Amazon.com: Sony Aftermarket Radio Install kit (Compatible with Toyota and Subaru) - Direct Wiring Harness for aftermarket Stereo Compatible with 4runner, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, BRZ, WRX, and Impreza : Electronics

It sounds like you missed the option to get it when buying from Crutchfield. You should have had an option when buying to have them fully build the adapter harness for you from the Metra harness to the Sony harness for something like $15. I'd reach out to them and see if they can help you out.
 
Hey guys I'm in dire need of some advice. I would have made a new thread but don't meet the requirements. In advance, I apologize for the length of this post.

For some background: About 6 months ago I dropped a used 5vz into my 97 LTD. According to the yard the engine had 98k miles on it. I did a compression test and it all checked out when I installed it. The truck ran like a charm with some exhaust leaks that I have since plugged.

About 2 weeks ago I was driving home from work and the truck felt really really sluggish so I pulled over on the side of the highway to see if anything had gone wrong. Nothing. No CEL either. I have to drive up a grade every day to get to and from work and until 2 weeks ago I could go up this grade at 65 and still accelerate running around 3500 rpm.
Now I can't get above 50! If I start at 70 mph, the engine just bogs until it gets to around 50 and then I crawl up the rest of the grade. This was also accompanied by a hissing noise when I get on the gas. I can't decide if this noise has been there the whole time or not. I have a crack in my air box but its pre-MAF so that might be the source of the hiss since it sounds like its coming from there...

So here's what i've done so far. I originally suspected I had some kind of issue with the CAT since the old engine had a bad HG and I presumed that this had melted down the catalyst. I did a temp check pre and post-CAT, totally normal. Did the vacuum gauge test, pulling a totally normal vacuum with no drop @ 2500 rpm. Next on the list was new plugs, replaced all of those with brand new plugs, no change. Did both the upstream and downstream O2 sensor hoping that maybe they were throwing off my fuel trims. Nothing. I also dumped a can of seafoam into my tank and that didn't seem to help.

I have a scangauge in the truck and I have set it up to display my long and short term fuel trims. They are totally normal +-4 LT and +-6SF.

Yesterday I had a bit of development with my issue. Now seemingly inexplicably I can go 60 up the grade on the way to work instead of 50. When I noticed this I looked at my long and short fuel trims and they both displayed as negative. Prior to yesterday, my fuel trims were around 0 when at high RPM (3000 and above) and only got negative when I got off the gas pedal. Now LT is hard stuck on -4 and SF bounces around a bit. I understand this can be due to a variety of factors but I figured it would be worth mentioning. Also, the timing advance at 2000 rpm is 23 and at 3200 rpm it's around 27.

My next guess is injectors but I don't want to load more into the parts cannon if I don't have to. Maybe a vacuum leak that has gotten worse? I don't see any cracked hoses and don't have a high idle. Could also be some kind of transmission issue? I don't think it is but I'm not particularly good at diagnostic, better at throwing wrenches at the ground and dropping 10mm sockets into my engine bay.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
About 2 weeks ago I was driving home from work and the truck felt really really sluggish so I pulled over on the side of the highway to see if anything had gone wrong. Nothing. No CEL either. I have to drive up a grade every day to get to and from work and until 2 weeks ago I could go up this grade at 65 and still accelerate running around 3500 rpm.
Now I can't get above 50! If I start at 70 mph, the engine just bogs until it gets to around 50 and then I crawl up the rest of the grade. This was also accompanied by a hissing noise when I get on the gas. I can't decide if this noise has been there the whole time or not. I have a crack in my air box but its pre-MAF so that might be the source of the hiss since it sounds like its coming from there...

My next guess is injectors but I don't want to load more into the parts cannon if I don't have to. Maybe a vacuum leak that has gotten worse? I don't see any cracked hoses and don't have a high idle. Could also be some kind of transmission issue? I don't think it is but I'm not particularly good at diagnostic, better at throwing wrenches at the ground and dropping 10mm sockets into my engine bay.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I think you have a fuel volume issue. Higher rpm’s require more fuel flow so I would suspect a restricted fuel filter or an aging fuel pump.

I highly doubt it’s a transmission issue, but try turning overdrive off or downshifting to 2 (if safe to do so). Injector issues typically show up as misfires or vehicle power surging or hard to start.
 
I think you have a fuel volume issue. Higher rpm’s require more fuel flow so I would suspect a restricted fuel filter or an aging fuel pump.

I highly doubt it’s a transmission issue, but try turning overdrive off or downshifting to 2 (if safe to do so). Injector issues typically show up as misfires or vehicle power surging or hard to start.

As far as the transmission goes, I can shift down into second and I'll see my speed increase but it's negligible. I'll be running 4500ish rpm and going around 65. As soon as it shifts back down to 3rd it bogs down to 60.

Fuel was one of the things I was looking into. I put in a brand-new fuel filter when I dropped in my new motor. I kinda crossed fuel off the potential problem list since my long and short-term fuel trims are seemingly normal. I would assume that if I had a fuel volume issue I might see very positive fuel trim numbers indicating the engine is running lean. Could a lower fuel pressure lead to poor injector spray or some other issue (causing a lack of power) but not running lean? Would this issue even present itself as low fuel pressure?

I'll look into testing my fuel pressure tomorrow. So far from skimming the forum it looks like I'll have to call the local stealership for the union and union bolt :(
 
As far as the transmission goes, I can shift down into second and I'll see my speed increase but it's negligible. I'll be running 4500ish rpm and going around 65. As soon as it shifts back down to 3rd it bogs down to 60.

Fuel was one of the things I was looking into. I put in a brand-new fuel filter when I dropped in my new motor. I kinda crossed fuel off the potential problem list since my long and short-term fuel trims are seemingly normal. I would assume that if I had a fuel volume issue I might see very positive fuel trim numbers indicating the engine is running lean. Could a lower fuel pressure lead to poor injector spray or some other issue (causing a lack of power) but not running lean? Would this issue even present itself as low fuel pressure?

I'll look into testing my fuel pressure tomorrow. So far from skimming the forum it looks like I'll have to call the local stealership for the union and union bolt :(
Fuel volume is quite different from fuel pressure. You can have good fuel pressure but still not have enough fuel flow. If you do not have enough fuel volume then you will have a lack of power in higher rpm’s. I’m not sure of a good way to test fuel volume and I don’t think there is a specification for it either. It’s one of those things where the only real test is to replace the fuel filter or fuel pump and see if it improves.
 
Advice on mufflers? I am planning to replace my o2 sensors and figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. Is something like this okay?

I have liked Borlas I've heard in the past, but there are so many models. I don't want it to be very loud and I don't want drone. But a nice aftermarket sound would be nice. Can anybody chime in with any experience?
 
Advice on mufflers? I am planning to replace my o2 sensors and figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. Is something like this okay?

I have liked Borlas I've heard in the past, but there are so many models. I don't want it to be very loud and I don't want drone. But a nice aftermarket sound would be nice. Can anybody chime in with any experience?
Our exhaust pipe is only 2.25” so keep that in mind when looking for mufflers
 
Who linked a Magnaflow a while back, it was 2.5" ctr/offset but I was interested and forgot the model #

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