The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[nye307]

What should I do with this manual N180 I picked up

Hey all,

Not traditionally a 4Runner guy but now that I have one I see the appeal :becky:

I bought a 97 SR5 with 3.4, 4x4 and a manual a few weeks ago. The truck is clean underneath and has very little rust (just a bit on the liftgate) and service records indicate it was well taken care of. Thing is, it's just a little banged up and unloved. Someone did some bad body work resulting in a dented fender and door. There were a lot of things like a cracked headlight and faulty window switches, yada, yada, yada. We really went through it even putting on new front tires and I've spent a touch over $1,000 sprucing it up. The truck is much nicer now but there's still the dented fender/door and slightly rusty liftgate. My guess is it's about a $7k truck even with the issues due to the rarity of the transmission (my data showed exactly 4 for sale in all of Colorado, yesterday someone called it a "unicorn"). But I've had five people look at the truck and pass on it. Not even a single counter offer. I'm concerned the body work is holding it back.

I'm tempted to fix the body work but at that point I'd have to mark it up yet more. And if it's not selling at $7k, it seems like it would be less likely to at $8,500. And honestly, I would think anyone buying these to wheel would want it a little banged up anyway.

At any rate, you guys know the market. What would you do in this situation? Leave it or fix it and try to make a perfect truck?

 

[heat]

Need pics.

 

[rc3_rc3]

Maybe $1500-3000 in a private sale - a 2WD 4-cyl with a bad transmission is nobody's unicorn

5-speeds are easy to fix, plenty of shops will still do it. Fix it and drive it, imo

Thank you! I got quoted about 4k to rebuild the transmission and install new clutch kit and flywheel. It won't gain that much value but if I drive it for a few more years it may be worth it.

 

[TomBrown11]

p1780 & p0420 code help

Hello,
I've had these two codes on my 2002 4Runner (4wd limited) for quite a while now, and the time has come to do something about it. I've searched around the forum but it seems there are many possible problems causing these codes, with many possible solutions.

I'm happy to replace both the 'park neutral position switch' (p1780) and the o2 sensor (p0420) on my own, because i'd like to do that first before taking it to a shop to replace the cat--but i don't even know if that'll do the trick.

I'm looking to find out if there's more diagnostic work I can do on my own to find the necessary solution, however I don't have much experience working on my truck on my own (short of oil/brake replacement).

Any recommendations?
Thank you in advance!
Jamie

 

[nye307]

Need pics.

I'd love to share some pics but I'm not sure how. Neither Google Photos or Imgur work for this forum...

 

[gh25_]

I'd love to share some pics but I'm not sure how. Neither Google Photos or Imgur work for this forum...

It's easy to do but not straight forward. Go on your phone and find the pictures in your cameral roll or photo app whatever you have and select them and then press share on your device and share it via your email. When your composing the email send it to your own email. Then go to your email on your computer and download the photos from there. Once you have them downloaded you will have to resize them since your only allowed to go so big on the format on T4R. Assuming you have windows go to your pictures and open them in the photo app and just readjust the size so it's smaller then go back on T4R and when your making your post scroll down to additional options and click manage attachments and then add all your pictures. This is how I do it. :thumb:

 

[octanejunkie]

I'm starting to hear some knocking/pinging, detonation, under the correct circumstances, wrong gear heavy load, and was wondering if this is just a simple knock sensor replacement...

 

[tommyCO]

Replacing my front brakes and brake lines tomorrow… Just took off my calipers and rotors. Wanted to check my front passenger side wheel bearing because of some funky inside tire wear and a minor speed specific “woo woo woo” vibration. After further inspection I think my wheel bearing is going.

It actually sounds SIGNIFICANTLY worse in the videos but definitely doesn’t not sound buttery smooth in person. Also feels a little “gritty” as I rotate the hub. Was hoping to get a few second opinions before turning a simple brake job into a much more complicated one!

1. Is the wheel bearing shot?? YES or NO?

2. If YES, should I just go ahead and do both of them up front while I am at it. My truck is 1997 Limited with 265k possibly original wheel bearings? Unknown. (Would prefer to do them both together than have the other blow out in 6 months)

Can’t post the videos because they are too large

 

[nye307]

It's easy to do but not straight forward. Go on your phone and find the pictures in your cameral roll or photo app whatever you have and select them and then press share on your device and share it via your email. When your composing the email send it to your own email. Then go to your email on your computer and download the photos from there. Once you have them downloaded you will have to resize them since your only allowed to go so big on the format on T4R. Assuming you have windows go to your pictures and open them in the photo app and just readjust the size so it's smaller then go back on T4R and when your making your post scroll down to additional options and click manage attachments and then add all your pictures. This is how I do it. :thumb:

a) Haven't foxed with Windows in like 10 years

b) Let's see if either of these works - Shared album - Nylon Vandelia - Google Photos

This is just the ad for the car, you can see the damage in the pictures.
Autotrader - page unavailable

 

[DJRodriguez88]

Anyone know what this thing foam seal is that came with my head gasket kit from YotaShop??
<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QYxPC7f6F-IcoS5kLgQhoVloFHKn9PgS/preview" width="640" height="480" allow="autoplay"></iframe>

it has an adhesive backing strip and looks very similar to this stuff around the mounting bracket of this pipe on the block.

<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11VX-R4ThGBse85ektJgxlaXavRUFhG1v/preview" width="640" height="480" allow="autoplay"></iframe>

the only other place i could find that has a similar material during this head gasket job was the lining of the timing covers

 

[Devbot]

I'm starting to hear some knocking/pinging, detonation, under the correct circumstances, wrong gear heavy load, and was wondering if this is just a simple knock sensor replacement...

Depends, what RPM? The knock sensors only start listening at like 3000rpm or something absurd. If you're experiencing pinging below that (like most people do) then it won't help much at all
You're supercharged aren't you? If so that's your issue

 

[octanejunkie]

Depends, what RPM? The knock sensors only start listening at like 3000rpm or something absurd. If you're experiencing pinging below that (like most people do) then it won't help much at all

You're supercharged aren't you? If so that's your issue

No SC for me

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

Anyone know what this thing foam seal is that came with my head gasket kit from YotaShop??

it has an adhesive backing strip and looks very similar to this stuff around the mounting bracket of this pipe on the block.

the only other place i could find that has a similar material during this head gasket job was the lining of the timing covers

Your google drive photos aren't showing up. They both have a message stating we don't have access to see them publicly.

 

[DJRodriguez88]

Your google drive photos aren't showing up. They both have a message stating we don't have access to see them publicly.

thx for letting me know, I made the files public now but I already got an answer back from yotaShop. Apparently this thing is called "Gasket, Timing Belt Or Chain Cover"

 

[alex9000]

I need a new battery... what's the best bang for your buck / what type of battery should I get? Not planning on a dual set up at the moment but ideally it would be compatible with a future dual set up.

Thanks!

 

[Bad Luck]

I need a new battery... what's the best bang for your buck / what type of battery should I get? Not planning on a dual set up at the moment but ideally it would be compatible with a future dual set up.

Thanks!

In my opinion get a good quality flooded battery. I prefer O'Reilly's but any parts house top tier battery would be fine. You can use a group 35 or 24R battery in the factory location. The 24R battery is a little larger with more cranking amps/cold cranking amps/reserve capacity. The vehicle was designed around charging/maintaining a flooded battery so that's what I prefer to use. AGM/Lithium batteries are a waste of money for most people in these vehicles in my opinion.

 

[96RedRunner]

Lead Acid works for majority InterState been my choice upgraded a bit over factory specs.
AGM's smart charging system as it's called we don't have. Shoot self in foot maybe
My Audi smart sys. AGM trickle 9 yrs OE Battery 3 on replacement, google foo varies.

 

[Devbot]

No SC for me

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Hmm. Have you pulled any spark plugs recently? If not that's where I'd take a peek just for the giggles. And test your injectors with a multimeter while you're in there. I doubt it's spark related but wouldn't hurt to double check just to eliminate a variable.
I've heard it before that sometimes pistons with lots of carbon on them can create hotspots which serves as a place for the A/F mix to ignite prematurely, but I'm not sure how true it really is. Just something to consider if you suspect/know your engine is pretty carboned up

 

[octanejunkie]

Hmm. Have you pulled any spark plugs recently? If not that's where I'd take a peek just for the giggles. And test your injectors with a multimeter while you're in there. I doubt it's spark related but wouldn't hurt to double check just to eliminate a variable.
I've heard it before that sometimes pistons with lots of carbon on them can create hotspots which serves as a place for the A/F mix to ignite prematurely, but I'm not sure how true it really is. Just something to consider if you suspect/know your engine is pretty carboned up

On the docket for this weekend, minimally:

-Pull and check plugs
-Compression test

And if things go well:

-Valve cover gasket job
-Replace injectors

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[alex9000]

In my opinion get a good quality flooded battery. I prefer O'Reilly's but any parts house top tier battery would be fine. You can use a group 35 or 24R battery in the factory location. The 24R battery is a little larger with more cranking amps/cold cranking amps/reserve capacity. The vehicle was designed around charging/maintaining a flooded battery so that's what I prefer to use. AGM/Lithium batteries are a waste of money for most people in these vehicles in my opinion.

Thank you Yeah should be pretty simple - I'm not after anything fancy especially with the Alberta winters that can hit -40F.