The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?

The PCK will have no bearing on front end alignment so it doesn't matter, but it will most certainly help the rear end track. Sounds like your bushings are shot too. I know that exact feeling you're talking about; went away after new trailing arm and panhard bushings for me
Unless you have little faith and trust in your friends I don't see much reason to get another alignment. I would chalk my tires and check wear first personally if you're skeptical for some reason
 
2" OME suspension lift.

2.5" leveling kit pucks at the tops of the strut towers.


I have the same 2" OME suspension lift out back, as well as a 1.25" spring block to get rid of the out of level look created when the 2.5's up front, simply flipped the problem I was trying to correct.

What other lift types exist, and how serious a safety or mechanical failure issue am I facing with the parts I have.
If you really have 4.5" of lift on the front and 3.25" on the back, you are setting yourself up for problems - especially that much lift in the front. There will be very little droop travel in the front (like, 1"?) that will make things very harsh and unsafe and ruin off road performance. There are similar issues in the rear that can be somewhat mitigated by longer shocks and bump stop spacers - but the link geometry still isn't great with tall lifts.

If you want the truck up that high, reducing the suspension lift and adding a body lift might be better overall, and will help you clear those 34" tires.

Your swaybar bushings and links may be worn out, but the bars themselves are probably fine. They will also be needed for 'stable' on road performance, but the front can be removed if you want better off road performance. The rear doesn't limit articulation and aides in stability.

-Charlie
 
So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?

Which OME springs are you running in the rear?
 
I've found sway bars that are adjustable to deal with lifts, which I have. Smart, for the price? And, are these guys a good choice if it is a good idea?

Sway Bar Links
– DRZ OFF ROAD


I don't even understand what stabilizer bars do, but my reading seems to imply they are good till they break, and not to worry otherwise. I am thinking those are the things with the torn boots though, which bugs me.



Those end links look a lot like the original Heim joint design that occasional t4r.org forum member [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] of Overland Custom Designs sells. I was under the impression he made them in-house. He still sells the Heim versions but released an updated forged ball joint version for more $ (and less headaches?). I have heard of noise issues but have never heard a peep out of my forged sets. OCDs are fully rebuildable and he sells all the small parts. You can find sway bar end link info at the OCD site:

Heim Joint Sway Bar Links
– Overland Custom Design


(not trying to drive business away from the other seller - just sharing info)
 
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The PCK will have no bearing on front end alignment so it doesn't matter, but it will most certainly help the rear end track. Sounds like your bushings are shot too. I know that exact feeling you're talking about; went away after new trailing arm and panhard bushings for me
Unless you have little faith and trust in your friends I don't see much reason to get another alignment. I would chalk my tires and check wear first personally if you're skeptical for some reason

Thanks for the input man. I definitely trust my friend haha I am just always a double checker with things. But little update.

I checked the tire pressures and they were all at 29psi. I am running 285/70/17 E load Falken Rubitreks and I looked up what most people are running their 285/70/17s at and I was seeing a lot of 36-45psi answers so I went with 38psi on all tires.
Took it out for a test ride and handling immediately felt so much better. ESPECIALLY in turns where i always felt worried in since the back end would feel delayed and wobble. I still felt a little bit of wandering but pretty minimal and mostly when i went over bumps. Still have the bumpsteer too.
I also did a bushing check I saw on YouTube. I looked underneath at the track bar as my dad turned the wheel left and right and I saw absolutely no movement in the bar at either mounting point. If you or anyone have any other suggestions on how to spot bad bushings I am all ears! Also all ears on tire PSI.. I am thinking about going up to ~44psi maybe and seeing how it feels then going down as needed but for now 38 feels good.
 
Hello friends, not able to make a post yet because I haven't hit my reply number yet? So here goes,

I ordered tacoma front brake lines seeing that other people have had success deleting the hard line that goes out of the caliper. Banjo bolt on one end, and then bolts into the next hard line after the rubber hose. My problem is the fitting on the hard line doesn't want to thread in all the way and I'm scared I'm going to pop some threads. Curious if anyone else had this issue? I've unscrewed and rescrewed and I'm pretty sure it's not cross threaded. And it's tight, but this just doesn't look right. I think the problem could be with the unthreaded portion on the hard line fitting, and the tacoma stainless steel fitting appears to be threaded all the way down. Any input is appreciated! About to just scrap the whole deal and go with OEM to be honest. Just puzzled as so many people seem to have done this upgrade with no issues

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Those end links look a lot like the original Heim joint design that occasional t4r.org forum member [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] of Overland Custom Designs sells. I was under the impression he made them in-house. He still sells the Heim versions but released an updated forged ball joint version for more $ (and less headaches?). I have heard of noise issues but have never heard a peep out of my forged sets. OCDs are fully rebuildable and he sells all the small parts. You can find sway bar end link info at the OCD site:

Heim Joint Sway Bar Links
– Overland Custom Design


(not trying to drive business away from the other seller - just sharing info)

He's a dealer of mine. Of course ordering from me gives more to me, but at the end of day you'll get the same product. I have updated links on my page since I recently switched to FK rod ends.

Mike
 
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Thanks for the input man. I definitely trust my friend haha I am just always a double checker with things. But little update.

I checked the tire pressures and they were all at 29psi. I am running 285/70/17 E load Falken Rubitreks and I looked up what most people are running their 285/70/17s at and I was seeing a lot of 36-45psi answers so I went with 38psi on all tires.
Took it out for a test ride and handling immediately felt so much better. ESPECIALLY in turns where i always felt worried in since the back end would feel delayed and wobble. I still felt a little bit of wandering but pretty minimal and mostly when i went over bumps. Still have the bumpsteer too.
I also did a bushing check I saw on YouTube. I looked underneath at the track bar as my dad turned the wheel left and right and I saw absolutely no movement in the bar at either mounting point. If you or anyone have any other suggestions on how to spot bad bushings I am all ears! Also all ears on tire PSI.. I am thinking about going up to ~44psi maybe and seeing how it feels then going down as needed but for now 38 feels good.

Ok update again.. ahaha, took it out tonight and the wandering is still pretty bad. In turns it feels much more planted but the steering is still delayed and is easy to over do. Then it overcorrects when I try to straighten it back up with a little too much rotation of the wheel.. the wandering gets bad at 50mph+ but I still dont know if wind was affecting it cause I was on an open straight road with no trees or anything blocking wind and there was some wind tonight.
Any ideas?
 
Thanks for the input man. I definitely trust my friend haha I am just always a double checker with things. But little update.

I checked the tire pressures and they were all at 29psi. I am running 285/70/17 E load Falken Rubitreks and I looked up what most people are running their 285/70/17s at and I was seeing a lot of 36-45psi answers so I went with 38psi on all tires.
Took it out for a test ride and handling immediately felt so much better. ESPECIALLY in turns where i always felt worried in since the back end would feel delayed and wobble. I still felt a little bit of wandering but pretty minimal and mostly when i went over bumps. Still have the bumpsteer too.
I also did a bushing check I saw on YouTube. I looked underneath at the track bar as my dad turned the wheel left and right and I saw absolutely no movement in the bar at either mounting point. If you or anyone have any other suggestions on how to spot bad bushings I am all ears! Also all ears on tire PSI.. I am thinking about going up to ~44psi maybe and seeing how it feels then going down as needed but for now 38 feels good.

I would lower the psi back to 28-30 psi. E rated tires are very stiff and our 4Runners aren't nearly as heavy as the full size 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton plus vehicles they were designed for. The higher the tire pressure the less give/flex the sidewall has and the more you are going to feel road imperfections. Try chalk testing your tires to find the best pressure for better tread wear and life. Too high of a pressure will cause the center of the tread to wear out much faster than the edges.
 
Hello friends, not able to make a post yet because I haven't hit my reply number yet? So here goes,

I ordered tacoma front brake lines seeing that other people have had success deleting the hard line that goes out of the caliper. Banjo bolt on one end, and then bolts into the next hard line after the rubber hose. My problem is the fitting on the hard line doesn't want to thread in all the way and I'm scared I'm going to pop some threads. Curious if anyone else had this issue? I've unscrewed and rescrewed and I'm pretty sure it's not cross threaded. And it's tight, but this just doesn't look right. I think the problem could be with the unthreaded portion on the hard line fitting, and the tacoma stainless steel fitting appears to be threaded all the way down. Any input is appreciated! About to just scrap the whole deal and go with OEM to be honest. Just puzzled as so many people seem to have done this upgrade with no issues

That hard line fitting in question is a newer design that Toyota uses with the replacement OEM hard lines. The unthreaded portion is not there on the original fittings. Did you replace that hard line or was it replaced prior to the soft line swap?
 
I would lower the psi back to 28-30 psi. E rated tires are very stiff and our 4Runners aren't nearly as heavy as the full size 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton plus vehicles they were designed for. The higher the tire pressure the less give/flex the sidewall has and the more you are going to feel road imperfections. Try chalk testing your tires to find the best pressure for better tread wear and life. Too high of a pressure will cause the center of the tread to wear out much faster than the edges.

Gotcha, I am going to drop them to around there and see how it feels. Thanks man.
 
That hard line fitting in question is a newer design that Toyota uses with the replacement OEM hard lines. The unthreaded portion is not there on the original fittings. Did you replace that hard line or was it replaced prior to the soft line swap?

Ah, now that is interesting. So does that mean any stainless steel lines I would have bought wouldn't fit even the 4runner one's? Guess maybe the rubber hose has a different fitting too i just assumed it was factory.

I stripped the fitting on the hard line that's in there trying to horse it into the stainless steel line, but interestingly enough the lines on the rig also have the unthreaded portion, and on both sides. So obviously these have been replaced, newish to me rig with 252k miles. The photo is a part I got from the dealer to replace the hard line i stripped.

Really threw my reasoning for a loop I based everything on the assumption that the factory hard lines came with that unthreaded spot, especially since that's what I have on the rig and that's what I got from toyota. Now I'm not sure what to do

So I can just forget the hard line delete and eat my $100 as I can't imagine I can return these to wheeler with brake juice in them, or! go to o'reily and try my hand at flaring the proper fitting onto the hard lines i just bought.
 
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If you really have 4.5" of lift on the front and 3.25" on the back, you are setting yourself up for problems - especially that much lift in the front. There will be very little droop travel in the front (like, 1"?) that will make things very harsh and unsafe and ruin off road performance. There are similar issues in the rear that can be somewhat mitigated by longer shocks and bump stop spacers - but the link geometry still isn't great with tall lifts.

If you want the truck up that high, reducing the suspension lift and adding a body lift might be better overall, and will help you clear those 34" tires.

Your swaybar bushings and links may be worn out, but the bars themselves are probably fine. They will also be needed for 'stable' on road performance, but the front can be removed if you want better off road performance. The rear doesn't limit articulation and aides in stability.

-Charlie

Hey Charlie, thanks, just trying to stay in my newbie lane, rather than abusing my other thread with OT content any more than the drift that's already happened.

I didn't want that much lift, not that it matters. This is the result of uneducated updating.

Added the 2" OME (F+R) several years ago, which exacerbated the unequal wheel well spacing that I guess was always there, front being taller, visually.

The suspension was just shot, so why not add two inches while getting it refreshed. No more thought applied, than that.

My educated guess is, 1", maybe 1.25" was required to level it.

So I took it to some local "bolt on guys" with a bunch of brodozers in the parking lot, figured they knew what was up. They'd done my NH Oil undercoating and seemed decent.

Explained what I wanted, showed them the visual issue. "No problem".

Come back to a $400 bill and a 2.5" block in front that overshot my problem and reversed it, now I was doing the Carolina Squat....

When asked, I was told, "It's an old truck, this is all we could find".

Turns out, lots of other options, if they actually looked. Fudge. :wtf:

So I forged ahead unwilling to get into it with them, and leveled the rear to equal the front.

Long way of saying, sounds like what you're telling me is I would be best to remove all the leveler blocks from both ends, and just get the proper ones for the front, and adding body lift?

Isn't body lift, seriously involved an expensive? This is also a truck that saw road salt for a few years, so honestly, I'm scared to get too deep into what gets unbolted, the unknown is a scary place.

I'll do some poking around on it though, thank you.

The OME's are at least 4 or 5 years old, that $1000 is long gone in my head. So if you have a suggestion for a smarter, more comprehensive move forward that isn't $3K, I'm all ears.

I'm already into getting my front end sorted this coming Spring to the tune of several grand, and I'm not rich, this is a slow moving process.


So. body versus suspension lift. Is a reduced range of motion the active concern with suspension lift, whereas a body lift and no suspension or leveling blocks, allows the stock range of motion, which is enough, even with bigger tires?
 
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So I can just forget the hard line delete and eat my $100 as I can't imagine I can return these to wheeler with brake juice in them, or! go to o'reily and try my hand at flaring the proper fitting onto the hard lines i just bought.

I'm not sure what exactly you're dealing with but I feel your pain. My attempt at installing the Wheeler's extended lines went horriblly wrong and I had to abondon ship and go back to OEM too. And Wheeler's wasn't very helpful in the process. It was a freaking nightmare.

Wheelers Offroad brake lines - Poor fit and finish

I did replace the full brake line set-up with OEM fittings and lines from the frame down on both sides. I got them from McGeorge Toyota.
 
Rear brake line

Hey guys,

I am about to put my suspension lift on my 1998 this weekend. I have king 2.5 OEM replacement shocks in the front and I am going with the same in the rear. I ordered some new brake lines for the front and rear since mine are clearly old. I know the fronts don't need to be extended but the rear line does when doing a lift. When I was doing my order on Optoffroad (rear coils, duro bumps, etc.) I also put the BTF stainless steel braided rear brake line in my order too. I bought OME 906 coils and I am stock weight all around I've heard they give about a 2in lift in the rear. When I got the brake line I didn't realize how long it would be it seems unnecessarily long. It measures in at 21 inches. I wanted to ask if there would be any problem running the brake line even if its too long? I think stock is somewhere around 15 inches long.


Stainless Extended Rear Brake Line (96-02 4Runner)– OPT OFF ROAD
 
Hey guys,

I am about to put my suspension lift on my 1998 this weekend. I have king 2.5 OEM replacement shocks in the front and I am going with the same in the rear. I ordered some new brake lines for the front and rear since mine are clearly old. I know the fronts don't need to be extended but the rear line does when doing a lift. When I was doing my order on Optoffroad (rear coils, duro bumps, etc.) I also put the BTF stainless steel braided rear brake line in my order too. I bought OME 906 coils and I am stock weight all around I've heard they give about a 2in lift in the rear. When I got the brake line I didn't realize how long it would be it seems unnecessarily long. It measures in at 21 inches. I wanted to ask if there would be any problem running the brake line even if its too long? I think stock is somewhere around 15 inches long.


Stainless Extended Rear Brake Line (96-02 4Runner)– OPT OFF ROAD

You shouldn't run into any issues with the extra length.
 
Hey guys,

I am about to put my suspension lift on my 1998 this weekend. I have king 2.5 OEM replacement shocks in the front and I am going with the same in the rear. I ordered some new brake lines for the front and rear since mine are clearly old. I know the fronts don't need to be extended but the rear line does when doing a lift. When I was doing my order on Optoffroad (rear coils, duro bumps, etc.) I also put the BTF stainless steel braided rear brake line in my order too. I bought OME 906 coils and I am stock weight all around I've heard they give about a 2in lift in the rear. When I got the brake line I didn't realize how long it would be it seems unnecessarily long. It measures in at 21 inches. I wanted to ask if there would be any problem running the brake line even if its too long? I think stock is somewhere around 15 inches long.


Stainless Extended Rear Brake Line (96-02 4Runner)– OPT OFF ROAD
For a 2” lift you can totally get away with just bending the brake line bracket down. It will bend quite a bit to allow some extra slack. If I was in your spot I’d either bend the bracket or order the right one but I suppose the excessively long one won’t be an issue either.
 
2002 4Runner Heated Seat Swap

Hello all, I have a ‘99 4Runner Limited and I am jealous of the ‘01-‘02 heated seats. I have found a guy who is parting out an ‘02 and is willing to let me take whatever I need the problem is that I’m not sure exactly what I need or if the swap is possible. Does anyone know if it is possible to swap 02 Limited heated seats into a 99 Limited and make it work like factory or is it more complex that hope it isn’t? I see the switches to the left of the steering column and I see the wiring that they plug into but I haven’t yet traced that wiring to see where it goes. I’d really like to make this happen. Please help
 
2001 bumper on a 2000

Hi there. I recently purchased a 2000 limited with no front bumper. I finally found a limited bumper from a 2001. I went ahead and bought it because the seller was offering it with the ditch lights for a good price. I see all the posts about people going from an old bumper to a new one, but can't find the other way around.

Can I get it to fit?
 
I'm not sure what exactly you're dealing with but I feel your pain. My attempt at installing the Wheeler's extended lines went horriblly wrong and I had to abondon ship and go back to OEM too. And Wheeler's wasn't very helpful in the process. It was a freaking nightmare.

Wheelers Offroad brake lines - Poor fit and finish

I did replace the full brake line set-up with OEM fittings and lines from the frame down on both sides. I got them from McGeorge Toyota.

haha ugh yeah man i think i came across that post when i was digging. i picked up some hard lines from o’reily with what appears to be the correct fitting and i’m gonna try to bend them tomorrow but if that doesn’t work out i think i’m gonna throw in the towel and go back to oem as well. nice to know i’m not the only one. just strange to see how many people had zero problems.

oh well, it’s funny valve covers timing belt and tougher jobs went pretty smooth for me but relatively simply things like exhaust and now this brake line thing have absolutely kicked my ass. just the way she goes
 
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