The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[habanero]

I (think) there's an issue with my rear defrost. When I turn it on, everything seems to work - the light on the button lights up, the side mirrors defog almost instantly... but the rear window defogger starts working but doesn't seem to do much. When the rear window is fogged up on the inside, I can drive for 20 minutes with defogger on and all I get is about 1/4-1/2" band of clear around each defroster line. So basically it is unable to defog the entire window. I don't recall that ever being the case before.

Any ideas? It doesn't appear to be the dreaded broken wiring in the tailgate phenomenon, since I am getting some defrost.. Or maybe there are only a few remaining strands in the wire, and that limits the current to the strips?

Mine took very close inspection to find how badly the lines were degraded. After testing the electrical side I tried repairing them with the paint-on stuff which only helped a smidge. I ended up buying a rear window that still looked good from a pick n pull half off sale. That did the trick.

From when I was trying to figure it out....

Well, it's not the wires at the hatch, all 4 repairs including the defrost wire are holding fine and there are no new breaks. Tested for continuity between each wire at the 2 connectors from where it connects to the body harness and the 2 connectors that are within the hatch itself- all those are good.
I've reconnected the body harness to hatch harness wiring and am currently inside trying to warm up my frozen meat logs and turn them back into fingers.
I know the defrost is getting power of some kind because some defrosting is happening, next up is the defroster itself.

I'm having a heck of a time checking those tiny lines so I grabbed the temp gun. By the time the mirrors were around 100 degrees the rear defrost was 34-37 degrees, depending on where I aimed. Starting temp was 31 degrees. I ran a flashlight over it to see if I could find any breaks, there are several areas like

Flaking off and greenish in places. I'm still going to try to get some good reads at some point, my fingers are so cold right now.

Good luck figuring yours out

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Mine took very close inspection to find how badly the lines were degraded. After testing the electrical side I tried repairing them with the paint-on stuff which only helped a smidge. I ended up buying a rear window that still looked good from a pick n pull half off sale. That did the trick.

From when I was trying to figure it out....


Good luck figuring yours out

Thanks hab, I'll look into that. It's a bit surprising that all the lines seem to be equally bad, that's why I was looking at the source that powers them all (e.g. a wire). Were your lines also uniformly crappy?

 

[habanero]

Thanks hab, I'll look into that. It's a bit surprising that all the lines seem to be equally bad, that's why I was looking at the source that powers them all (e.g. a wire). Were your lines also uniformly crappy?

All the lines looked pretty bad when I got that close a look, but some were moreso than others.
It may be I didn't really notice they were degrading until the uniform effect of failure hit me in my thick head. It was 2019- I sorta remember thinking it was taking longer to defrost, and the part that did barely hint at defrosting was a small area. Some of the lines sorta worked. I tend to use my side mirrors a lot more, and the bumper-mounted spare occludes some of the view as well so that may a contributing factor to my not noticing.
My heated side mirrors are not original, I tapped into the defrost wire near the connector behind the left kick panel, they were working fine which left something wrong in the back. I'd already repaired the defrost wire at the hatch in 2011 and that was still good, so I kept looking/testing things until the window was all that was left.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

All the lines looked pretty bad when I got that close a look, but some were moreso than others.
It may be I didn't really notice they were degrading until the uniform effect of failure hit me in my thick head. It was 2019- I sorta remember thinking it was taking longer to defrost, and the part that did barely hint at defrosting was a small area. Some of the lines sorta worked. I tend to use my side mirrors a lot more, and the bumper-mounted spare occludes some of the view as well so that may a contributing factor to my not noticing.
My heated side mirrors are not original, I tapped into the defrost wire near the connector behind the left kick panel, they were working fine which left something wrong in the back. I'd already repaired the defrost wire at the hatch in 2011 and that was still good, so I kept looking/testing things until the window was all that was left.

Interesting that the pick-n-pull window you got didn't have the same issue, given that it was the same age? I'm going to get a new rear glass piece put in, we'll see if that fixes it.

 

[habanero]

Interesting that the pick-n-pull window you got didn't have the same issue, given that it was the same age? I'm going to get a new rear glass piece put in, we'll see if that fixes it.

Mine's a 96, the glass was out of an 02 that looked generally a lot less worn. I checked it very carefully, and being 1/2 price didn't hurt. Was one of those well, I've tested every electrical thing else so I'm throwing a part at it and see what sticks moment. Got lucky, it stuck. How long will it stick, the joy of used parts, right?

What do your lines look like? Does the temp gun tell you anything? I know you've checked the electrical side of things. You mentioned the hatch wiring, I'm assuming you've checked for a voltage drop/continuity past that point. I recently learned via the locker wiring that it can look perfectly fine on the outside, and work, then lose continuity in certain positions.

I also replaced the window seal that needed resealing while I was at it, same junkyard donor looked a tad better than mine.

It'd be nice if you got more responses/suggestions, especially beings I'm no mechanic and have only the one experience with its one solution for you.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Mine's a 96, the glass was out of an 02 that looked generally a lot less worn. I checked it very carefully, and being 1/2 price didn't hurt. Was one of those well, I've tested every electrical thing else so I'm throwing a part at it and see what sticks moment. Got lucky, it stuck. How long will it stick, the joy of used parts, right?

What do your lines look like? Does the temp gun tell you anything? I know you've checked the electrical side of things. You mentioned the hatch wiring, I'm assuming you've checked for a voltage drop/continuity past that point. I recently learned via the locker wiring that it can look perfectly fine on the outside, and work, then lose continuity in certain positions.

I also replaced the window seal that needed resealing while I was at it, same junkyard donor looked a tad better than mine.

It'd be nice if you got more responses/suggestions, especially beings I'm no mechanic and have only the one experience with its one solution for you.

Thanks for the heat gun suggestion, it was useful to confirm that I'm not crazy. Here is the heated side mirror, nice and toasty at 114F:

And here is the rear window. It looks like it has hot spots, but even those are barely over 60F, which is only about ten degrees above ambient:

Not sure what else to make out of this, or how to rule out bad wiring leading the defogger (I have not inspected the harness yet, I'm trying to avoid working on cars till we get a garage - though the cars may have other ideas, haha).

 

[EJD99]

Side question here as I was looking deeper into a project. We made some custom straps that turns our 3rd gen cargo area into a recliner. The custom straps hook up to the rear seats and are adjustable. Allows for a great chill spot when tailgating and we made some custom cushions. tbh I totally would be down to make them but I dont know if they are limited to 3rd gens because of the latch point on the rear seats. its needs that side latch and metal bracket to work. they work great on my Subaru outback too. if anyone knows of any other models that it would work with, it would be a huge help

 

[habanero]

Not sure what else to make out of this, or how to rule out bad wiring leading the defogger (I have not inspected the harness yet, I'm trying to avoid working on cars till we get a garage - though the cars may have other ideas, haha).

I've got a slowly growing backlog of stuff waiting for warmer and dryer driveway conditions too.
My window was around 3 degrees warmer than ambient vs the mirror at 100 degrees, but it was in the low 30s when I tested. The connectors on the rear window itself are a simple 2-wire deal, wish I'd taken more pics, all I've got is a few of a snow-covered window with no heat induced lines. No I'm wondering what it'd be like if I checked it again, will have to give that a try.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I've got a slowly growing backlog of stuff waiting for warmer and dryer driveway conditions too.
My window was around 3 degrees warmer than ambient vs the mirror at 100 degrees, but it was in the low 30s when I tested. The connectors on the rear window itself are a simple 2-wire deal, wish I'd taken more pics, all I've got is a few of a snow-covered window with no heat induced lines. No I'm wondering what it'd be like if I checked it again, will have to give that a try.

Well I have Safelite scheduled to put in a new piece of glass next week, so we'll if that improves things.

I've never taken the rear hatch apart, which I assume the tech will have to do to replace the glass (yes?). If so, should I use that opportunity to inspect anything else in that hatch area (maybe ask him to not put all the trim back after he's done)?

 

[dotinfo]

Not sure if my 01 SR5 has DRL (or if it even matters here), but when I flip my headlamps on and then turn them to parking light or off, headlamps stay on.

Basically once they're on, they're on until I turn the car off.

Wondering if this is normal, though doesn't feel normal.

Feels like a relay/fuse issue but would appreciate any feedback.

 

[spartacus]

Not sure if my 01 SR5 has DRL (or if it even matters here), but when I flip my headlamps on and then turn them to parking light or off, headlamps stay on.

Basically once they're on, they're on until I turn the car off.

Wondering if this is normal, though doesn't feel normal.

Feels like a relay/fuse issue but would appreciate any feedback.

2001 has drls. But should be able to tell the difference at night when you turn on the headlamps. The head lamps get a bit brighter when low beams are activated.

 

[dotinfo]

2001 has drls. But should be able to tell the difference at night when you turn on the headlamps. The head lamps get a bit brighter when low beams are activated.

Interesting. Mine must not be working then since I've never noticed them come on. I bet it's the fuse. Thanks for the response.

 

[TCT4Rillz]

Hey all,

Not really sure where to post this so decided to come to this thread rather than starting a new one. I bought a 2001 4WD 4runner about 2 months ago with about 210k miles give or take, threw a bilstein lift on it along with new wheels and tires.
2 days ago my transmission died on me.
Everything felt great besides some wandering due to the lift I put on and not having the eimkeith PCK put on, but besides that everything literally felt perfect until I was going up a hill on my way home and all of a sudden my RPMs shot up and I wasn't going anywhere... I could get it in neutral but I cannot get it into any other gear, if I try to put it in drive or anything it just makes a bunch of grinding and clunking type of noises, so I had it towed home.

I have gotten 1 estimate so far from a reliable transmission shop and they said it would be around $4500 for a rebuilt trans. I was expecting it to be steep but not that steep.. I am trying to look around for used transmissions to maybe try to save some money by getting a used one and having a shop install it, but I am finding that it is pretty tough to find a used 4x4 trans with decent mileage. I am going to keep calling around to shops for estimates and also going to call a dealer just because, why not, to see what their price would be for a new trans. So I guess my questions would be:
1. What would a decent mileage be for a used transmission?
2. What route would you guys take if you were in my position? Just trying to get options/opinions.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[spartacus]

Interesting. Mine must not be working then since I've never noticed them come on. I bet it's the fuse. Thanks for the response.

There is 7.5 amp fuse marked drl under the hood.

 

[Silver.T4R]

Hey all,



Not really sure where to post this so decided to come to this thread rather than starting a new one. I bought a 2001 4WD 4runner about 2 months ago with about 210k miles give or take, threw a bilstein lift on it along with new wheels and tires.

2 days ago my transmission died on me.

Everything felt great besides some wandering due to the lift I put on and not having the eimkeith PCK put on, but besides that everything literally felt perfect until I was going up a hill on my way home and all of a sudden my RPMs shot up and I wasn't going anywhere... I could get it in neutral but I cannot get it into any other gear, if I try to put it in drive or anything it just makes a bunch of grinding and clunking type of noises, so I had it towed home.



I have gotten 1 estimate so far from a reliable transmission shop and they said it would be around $4500 for a rebuilt trans. I was expecting it to be steep but not that steep.. I am trying to look around for used transmissions to maybe try to save some money by getting a used one and having a shop install it, but I am finding that it is pretty tough to find a used 4x4 trans with decent mileage. I am going to keep calling around to shops for estimates and also going to call a dealer just because, why not, to see what their price would be for a new trans. So I guess my questions would be:

1. What would a decent mileage be for a used transmission?

2. What route would you guys take if you were in my position? Just trying to get options/opinions.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I'd go used. They can be found here in the PNW for around $400-600 with sub 180k miles. That and one weekend to swap it in

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[habanero]

Well I have Safelite scheduled to put in a new piece of glass next week, so we'll if that improves things.

I've never taken the rear hatch apart, which I assume the tech will have to do to replace the glass (yes?). If so, should I use that opportunity to inspect anything else in that hatch area (maybe ask him to not put all the trim back after he's done)?

If everything's working properly rust maybe? The only things I've pulled the hatch apart was for the defrost, to replace the window, and when I repaired my hatch latch for a related dome light issue.
They'll have to remove the trim and a couple of covers to get to the bolts that hold the window. I didn't think it a terrible job.
My little write-up below, entertainment value only, at your own risk, blah blah here you go-

1 bolt for the grab handle (pop off cover), a lot of those annoying clip thingies. Comes up off the hatch lip at the top.

Was thinking the donor truck was an 02, it was a 97

96 4Runner 317,002 miles

Way behind on posting this...
Pick n pull's memorial day sale netted a rear window out of a '97. The defrost stuff is in better shape than the '96 so I pulled it for $15.
A little finesse, 6 bolts, the window seal in the hatch, turning the glass until it could clear everything and come out.
So I didn't read the manual, just did it.
Removed the tailgate panel, then the two metal panels underneath it.
Unbolted 6 bolts that holds the window onto the track (yellow arrows) access was easier when someone worked the switch up or down depending on which bolt you're trying to reach. Keep fingers and what-all out of the way while it's moving- and make sure the person toggling the switch knows not to touch it when fingers are present.
Unplugged the two defrost wires (green arrow marks their approximate position- they on on the bottom passenger side of the window) - spade connectors w/lever to release
I removed the seal (orange arrow) to get enough room to maneuver the window out of the tailgate by turning it a little until it can slide out.It pulls right off, but the piece at the bottom takes some patience if you find you need to remove it too, for space to work.

Right side bolts again

and left side

Don't forget to unplug the defrost (green arrow again).

It goes back in pretty much opposite of how it went out.
6 bolts, 2 defroster wires,
I used fipg to reseal the window gasket. It goes down in the rubber channel where metal meets rubber. There's probably a specific gasket goop for it, I just used what I had on hand.

Thought I took a lot more pics, but this was all I could find. It wasn't terribly hard to do, hardest part was getting the window just the right amount of crooked to get it out without scratching the defrost surface or window.
My only prior experience was removing the window at the junkyard.

 

[3.4revy]

Hey all. I was the smart guy here and tried to install a computer 920S remote starter. Cut a few wires and then eventually got overwhelmed, soldered the wires back together and this is where I get the problems.
Everything starts up fine no long crank etc. my radio (aftermarket boss radio) dome lights and clock do not turn on what so ever, I tried replacing the 15amp fuse in the fuse box and that didn’t work. Hoping to get some information out of this.
1997 4Runner limited.

 

[centerwheel]

Overfilled coolant reservoir or head gasket problem?

To give some background 97’ 3.4L 185k miles. Bought 8 months ago. Radiator replaced 7 months ago.

So story goes, was driving from NY state to Columbus, Ohio a few days ago (9 hr drive split into two 4.5 hr drives sleeping over night) and for the first time ever since owning this truck, noticed the temp gauge needle creep upwards ever so slightly. Was driving at about 65-75 for a couple of hours. Stopped at a gas station, coolant had leaked/sprayed everywhere on driver side of engine bay, big spray mark on underside of hood, leaking on frame, under back of engine, and driver front wheel well (no splash guard). Coolant reservoir was empty (full when I started drive, aware that coolant gets sucked out of there when system is pressurized especially at higher speeds and operating temp. Put some coolant in overflow and kept driving keeping an eye on temp. Flickered up slightly a couple of times later on when climbing or driving above 2500 rpm’s for long stretches.

Got to Ohio, radiator was pretty empty (essentially no coolant in filler neck). Topped it off. Been driving fine, no overheating even on highways. And haven’t seen any more coolant leaking. Even used the UV dye to be sure.

I was concerned it was a head gasket problem as I’ve had some white smoke from the exhaust for a couple minutes after first cold start of day, but goes away for rest of day. It is cold here so may be condensation. I also have been chasing a sputtering hard start at first cold start of day (pretty normal for rest of day).

I ran a combustion test and compression test. She passed both, block tester liquid stayed blue (did NOT turn yellow for exhaust fumes), compression numbers were normal (195 lowest, 210 highest). Spark plug ends were normal (none super clean or white), shined light in plug holes (looked normal and brown).

My question is, is it possible that overfilling the coolant reservoir at some point (I’ll admit I’m pretty sure I over filled) could cause coolant to be fine under normal driving, but pressurize enough at high speeds/operating temp to spray out all that coolant and lower the level significantly?

Does passing a combustion test and compression test rule out head gasket problem?

Am I overthinking this?

Thank you any help is much appreciated

Sincerely, someone who just wants to be on the road

 

[Spiker Engineering]

If everything's working properly rust maybe? The only things I've pulled the hatch apart was for the defrost, to replace the window, and when I repaired my hatch latch for a related dome light issue.
They'll have to remove the trim and a couple of covers to get to the bolts that hold the window. I didn't think it a terrible job.
My little write-up below, entertainment value only, at your own risk, blah blah here you go-

1 bolt for the grab handle (pop off cover), a lot of those annoying clip thingies. Comes up off the hatch lip at the top.

Was thinking the donor truck was an 02, it was a 97

Thanks, this is super helpful. I have an OEM gasket for the tailgate "garnish" (license plate surround) that I have avoided installing due to not wanting to deal with the tailgate internals. Sounds like that part should be very accessible for removal during the rear window replacement?

 

[Devbot]

Anybody know the part number for injector O-rings?
I ask because every normal person I see is saying to use 90301-07001 - but every Toyota site tells me that's for a Sienna with the 1MZ, and 90301-07024 is for 4Runners with the 5VZ

Welp, looks like Toyota is wrong. Ordered the 07024 o-ring and they're slightly bigger than what comes on the injectors. Gonna have to try 07001. Should've listened to MotorWest and Timmy/Sean in the first place :doh: