The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[squadro]

Liftgate Handle Swap

I hope this is the right place for this! I joined today because I have googled and googled and searched Youtube and Reddit and can't seem to get any hits. My liftgate handle stopped working (rusted out, it seems). I ordered a replacement of of ebay motors and pulled the interior covers off, removed the nuts that hold that handle in place, but now it seems I need to do more in order to actually get that part swapped out. My question is - do I need to remove the whole license plate bezel? Or does it have more to do with the license plate lights that might be holding that handle in place on the outside? Any help would be appreciated! Happy to be a part of this thriving community!

 

[Jacob_116]

Hi all,

I've been chasing this sound for months and it has been driving me crazy.
Here is a clip of the sound, I removed the center console/dash to get a clear sound for the video. At the end of the video you can hear me take my foot off the throttle and the sound completely stops.

Exhaust leak? 2002 4Runner 5VZ-FE. Took out center console to hear it better. Sound only under load - YouTube

I've searched nearly every forum/ YouTube video relating to this sound I and I can't seem to find anyone with the same sound/ issue. My issue I have is a raspy/rough sound upon accelerating only. No check engine light and no noticeable issues while driving, only the sound. The noise is not there when I am in park/neutral and rev the engine. My first thought was exhaust leak, I took it to my local shop, had 2 leaks fixed and the sound is the same. Since then I have replaced the following. Fuel Filter, MAF, O2 sensor, oil and filter and air filter (spark plugs have less than 10k mi with coil packs replaces at the same time). I have also ran a few tanks of gas with fuel injector cleaner and sea foam in the gas tank as well as seafoam in crank case and the upper engine spray. I have also ran a few tanks of 91 Octane so I know its not pinging or detonation. So far nothing I have done has affected the sound, however the truck does feel smoother and more responsive since I began this process.

At this point I'm leaning towards potential vacuum leak somewhere? Or possibly exhaust leak in the crossover pipe that the muffler shop missed? (I doubt this is the case as the muffler shop is reputable)
Any help would be greatly appreciated

Bump

 

[phattyduck]

I hope this is the right place for this! I joined today because I have googled and googled and searched Youtube and Reddit and can't seem to get any hits. My liftgate handle stopped working (rusted out, it seems). I ordered a replacement of of ebay motors and pulled the interior covers off, removed the nuts that hold that handle in place, but now it seems I need to do more in order to actually get that part swapped out. My question is - do I need to remove the whole license plate bezel? Or does it have more to do with the license plate lights that might be holding that handle in place on the outside? Any help would be appreciated! Happy to be a part of this thriving community!

Yup, you need to remove the whole bezel to get it all done. Once the 10mm nuts are removed, you'll need to work on the push-clips that hold it in place (squeeze with needle nose and push them out from the inside of the hatch).

-Charlie

 

[CrudRunner]

Low speed PS issue

Background: '97 SR5 4WD 5vzfe, 5spd, 385,000 miles, and owned since 2018 purchased with 348,000mi. Few months ago the power steering began to groan but worked fine. Added fluid, cool, groaning stopped. Noticed a fluid leak had developed in the pump area, cleaned all around real good, drained all the old fluid out, replaced with new dex/merc atf and tightened everything up, cool. Leak largely gone, no groaning, all good. Month goes by, fluid stays constant, no groaning, but now the PS is nonexistent at idle, or very low speeds, fine while moving over 10mph, or if you throttle up to 2k+. Today I removed the reservoir cleaned out the screen (huge thanks to MTBTim for this) new fluid, air hoses cleaned and tightened up. Problem not resolved, no groaning, no belt squeal. The truck does not idle up when stopped and steering angle applied. Saw some threads about the PS pressure sensor/switch. There is the single wire going to a gray connector behind the pump, I can trace one end of it to what appears a ground on the pump housing itself, the other end I lose down near back of the pump near the pulley itself. Is it possible this sensor has crapped out? If so, possible to diagnose without removing entire pump, or can the sensor be removed and replaced? UBJ's, LBJ's, sway bar links, and some other suspension bits in the area have been replaced during my ownership. There are no abnormal suspension noises or steering rack noises during use. Any thoughts or suggestions. I do appreciate the upper body workout in parking lots, wifey can't drive it like this and she's a real good DD to have.
Thank you all in advance.

 

[AuSeeker]

Background: '97 SR5 4WD 5vzfe, 5spd, 385,000 miles, and owned since 2018 purchased with 348,000mi. Few months ago the power steering began to groan but worked fine. Added fluid, cool, groaning stopped. Noticed a fluid leak had developed in the pump area, cleaned all around real good, drained all the old fluid out, replaced with new dex/merc atf and tightened everything up, cool. Leak largely gone, no groaning, all good. Month goes by, fluid stays constant, no groaning, but now the PS is nonexistent at idle, or very low speeds, fine while moving over 10mph, or if you throttle up to 2k+. Today I removed the reservoir cleaned out the screen (huge thanks to MTBTim for this) new fluid, air hoses cleaned and tightened up. Problem not resolved, no groaning, no belt squeal. The truck does not idle up when stopped and steering angle applied. Saw some threads about the PS pressure sensor/switch. There is the single wire going to a gray connector behind the pump, I can trace one end of it to what appears a ground on the pump housing itself, the other end I lose down near back of the pump near the pulley itself. Is it possible this sensor has crapped out? If so, possible to diagnose without removing entire pump, or can the sensor be removed and replaced? UBJ's, LBJ's, sway bar links, and some other suspension bits in the area have been replaced during my ownership. There are no abnormal suspension noises or steering rack noises during use. Any thoughts or suggestions. I do appreciate the upper body workout in parking lots, wifey can't drive it like this and she's a real good DD to have.
Thank you all in advance.

You may want to start a separate topic asking about your issue, instead of it getting/being buried in this topic so more people will see it and possibly post some advice and answers.

 

[CrudRunner]

You may want to start a separate topic asking about your issue, instead of it getting/being buried in this topic so more people will see it and possibly post some advice and answers.

Wise call, shall do. And thank you much.

 

[Ctsnipes90]

99 4Runner won't take AC Charge

Been trying to charge the AC in my 99 4Runner since the air blowing isn't cold. AC turns on and I see the compressor spinning. When I hook the recharge kit up on the low pressure port it shows zero pressure. After 5 or 6 minutes of trying to charge the system with the AC Pro can the needle has barely moved and it doesn't seem like anything has come out of the can. Is it possible the system isn't taking any freon in? If so why? I don't know much about the cooling system but most videos and posts say if the compressor isn't spinning it means the pressure is too low and you have to jump the magnetic clutch relay but the compressor is spinning when I turn the AC on and when I turn it off it stops so I don't think thats it.... any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[PeteCain]

P0420, again. Worth doing Cats?

Howdy all,

My truck threw a P0420 code again last night. Not the first time this has happened. I got the Air Fuel sensor replaced last spring for the same code and it fixed it. Previous owner had Bank 1 O2 sensor replaced, and the cats replaced with aftermarket.

Now the code and CEL is back. Shop is quoting me $3,311.05 to replace cats and all.

A couple of questions for you fine folks:

Is the truck okay to drive until I get it fixed? Don't want to cause more trouble just because I don't want to fork over the cash to fix it. I've read about them being clogged and causing issues upstream. Haven't checked for the sulfur smell yet. Truck definitely accelerates slow, but that's also not super abnormal, she's usually pretty sluggish. Especially in this crazy Utah summer heat.

Should I pay to fix this truck, or should I keep driving as-is, save the money, and put it towards a new one when the time comes? Feels like I'm just always doing something to this thing and beginning to feel myself saying UNCLE

I passed emissions in February and won't need to again until 2025.

Main worry is how dire this is - can I wait a bit, or do I need to fix ASAP?

Thanks for any tips and insight

 

[Endlessblockades]

Howdy all,

My truck threw a P0420 code again last night. Not the first time this has happened. I got the Air Fuel sensor replaced last spring for the same code and it fixed it. Previous owner had Bank 1 O2 sensor replaced, and the cats replaced with aftermarket.

Now the code and CEL is back. Shop is quoting me $3,311.05 to replace cats and all.

A couple of questions for you fine folks:

Is the truck okay to drive until I get it fixed? Don't want to cause more trouble just because I don't want to fork over the cash to fix it. I've read about them being clogged and causing issues upstream. Haven't checked for the sulfur smell yet. Truck definitely accelerates slow, but that's also not super abnormal, she's usually pretty sluggish. Especially in this crazy Utah summer heat.

Should I pay to fix this truck, or should I keep driving as-is, save the money, and put it towards a new one when the time comes? Feels like I'm just always doing something to this thing and beginning to feel myself saying UNCLE

I passed emissions in February and won't need to again until 2025.

Main worry is how dire this is - can I wait a bit, or do I need to fix ASAP?

Thanks for any tips and insight

Not a dire issue. Don't worry too much about it and carefully inspect the length of your exhaust system for leaks or loose bolts (especially from the cat-back, counter-intuitively). If you still have a stock style exhaust there are fewer connection points but you may have tiny rust holes.

I can throw a P0420 and fix it at will. I installed a cat-back Magnaflow system and if the downstream clamps aren't tight enough I'll throw the code and CEL. The sensors are more perceptive than you might think. Worth a look at yours before you drop that kind of money. The 2 stock cats on my CA 2000 are still working fine, but i have no experience with aftermarket unit(s). Make sure the cats are getting HOT (doing their job). Edit - the previous owner may have been sold the same bill of goods....I'd be suspicious.

 

[ryedog]

High pitched squeak from the rear

Hello, attached are videos where you can hear the high pitched noise coming from what I can best guess in the rear of the truck. This noise only happens when moving between like 3 and 10 MPH and then it stops. Happens in R, N, and D, but like I said it goes away and cannot be heard above those speeds. I hadn’t really noticed this noise until after a backpacking trip where I drove on some tame but very bumpy dirt roads. I did a visual inspection checking for anything loose or rubbing and found nothing, I felt the backing plates and dust shields on all my wheels and don’t think they are rubbing (I plan to jack it up and spin each wheel later). I replaced my rear wheel bearing, seal, and retainers back in November of 2023, hopefully it’s not that going. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: Also it makes this same noise when coasting in neutral with the engine off.

Video of the noise:
97 4Runner SR5, Squeal from the rear? - YouTube

 

[Endlessblockades]

Hello, attached are videos where you can hear the high pitched noise coming from what I can best guess in the rear of the truck. This noise only happens when moving between like 3 and 10 MPH and then it stops. Happens in R, N, and D, but like I said it goes away and cannot be heard above those speeds. I hadn’t really noticed this noise until after a backpacking trip where I drove on some tame but very bumpy dirt roads. I did a visual inspection checking for anything loose or rubbing and found nothing, I felt the backing plates and dust shields on all my wheels and don’t think they are rubbing (I plan to jack it up and spin each wheel later). I replaced my rear wheel bearing, seal, and retainers back in November of 2023, hopefully it’s not that going. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: Also it makes this same noise when coasting in neutral with the engine off.

Video of the noise:
97 4Runner SR5, Squeal from the rear? - YouTube

When is the last time you greased the front driveshaft? My driveline made a symphony of sounds until I hit all the zerks. Front spins all the time, no?

 

[ryedog]

When is the last time you greased the front driveshaft? My driveline made a symphony of sounds until I hit all the zerks. Front spins all the time, no?

I haven’t since I bought it last October, I’m planning on going to my parents this weekend and my dad has a grease gun so I’ll do that then! I was curious if that could be a possibility. Could be from the front for sure or I guess the transfer case area could be making me think it’s the rear. Regardless I was just thinking of doing that, thanks!

 

[Endlessblockades]

I haven’t since I bought it last October, I’m planning on going to my parents this weekend and my dad has a grease gun so I’ll do that then! I was curious if that could be a possibility. Could be from the front for sure or I guess the transfer case area could be making me think it’s the rear. Regardless I was just thinking of doing that, thanks!

Def worth doing. There are a bunch of zerks (8?) and some can be hidden depending where you came to rest. This might help: Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

 

[ryedog]

Def worth doing. There are a bunch of zerks and some can be hidden depending where you came to rest. This might help: Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

Awesome, thanks! I’ll update once that’s done and when I check my wheels also

 

[98piranha]

my j shift transfer case crapped out. need to know if a vf2a transfer case from a 07 AT fj cruiser will bolt up to my AT 4runner. please let me know. thanks!

 

[PerfectTommy]

here's my question:

have read a lot about Seafoam as an effective de-carbon/cleaning treatment in the crankcase, gas tank, and via air intake.

is it prudent to run Seafoam through my new-to-me 190,000 mile, 2000 SR5s crankcase?

* don't have a lot of history on the engine, but do know that coolant flushed, and timing belt, water pump, thermostat have been changed within the past 12,000 miles - it appears that the vehicle has been well-maintained.

*have read that if an engine has a lot of carbon deposit, the treatment can cause problems by discharging/cleaning so much at once.

Thanks! any real world experience would be helpful.

 

[JoeT4R]

here's my question:

have read a lot about Seafoam as an effective de-carbon/cleaning treatment in the crankcase, gas tank, and via air intake.

is it prudent to run Seafoam through my new-to-me 190,000 mile, 2000 SR5s crankcase?

* don't have a lot of history on the engine, but do know that coolant flushed, and timing belt, water pump, thermostat have been changed within the past 12,000 miles - it appears that the vehicle has been well-maintained.

*have read that if an engine has a lot of carbon deposit, the treatment can cause problems by discharging/cleaning so much at once.

Thanks! any real world experience would be helpful.

I've used it in the gas tank and the crankcase before with fine results, as well as my PCV valve. Cranked the truck and a cloud of white smoke emerged out of the tailpipe. Pretty cool to watch.

I cannot say that it definitely had a positive effect on anything, but I don't believe it hurt anything. This was probably 10 years ago if not a bit more, I've had the truck for over 11 years now. I'd say try it out in small dosages first to see what kind of results you get, then step it up with how much you're using. But it's totally up to you.

 

[JoeT4R]

Def worth doing. There are a bunch of zerks (8?) and some can be hidden depending where you came to rest. This might help: Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

I haven’t since I bought it last October, I’m planning on going to my parents this weekend and my dad has a grease gun so I’ll do that then! I was curious if that could be a possibility. Could be from the front for sure or I guess the transfer case area could be making me think it’s the rear. Regardless I was just thinking of doing that, thanks!

I second what Blair said, definitely worth doing. You wanna take care of those u-joints before they start to break, like inside the clips and needle bearings. When they go out they'll create a violent vibration that you will absolutely have to take care of. Trust me, you'll know when they go bad! Lol. I've had it happen twice in the time I've owned my truck. OEM is the way to go, but if you can get a greasable OEM replacement then I don't see anything wrong with that if you're diligent about greasing it regularly.

 

[Bad Luck]

Finally got around to listing my other 4Runner for sale. This site makes it such a headache for uploading photos. There's probably an easier way, but I have to email myself the photos in order to downsize them enough to upload here. If anyone is looking for a stock manual 4Runner with all the maintenance done here's a link: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-vehicles/314529-3rd-gen-manual-4runner-$13-9k-hot-springs-ar.html#post3841788

 

[4RunnerNor]

Hi all. New user here from Norway. I was hoping i could get in touch with someone with good knowledge about the different versions of the 3.gen 4 Runner as im currently looking to import one from the U.S. Have been reading up on the different models/trim etc but was still a little bit confused as to which im going for so was just looking to see if there was anyone who might be available for a 5-10 min chat on something like FB to help me out a little bit.
Currently have a 1999.4 Runner SR5 , and before that a 1995 4 Runner so im not completly 4Runner newbie incase that would scare anyone away.
Hoping for a positive answer and someone dont mind taking a little time out ro help, would be very gratefull.

Kind Regards from Norway.