The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Whats it worth? I just spent the last 6 months fixing up the 'old 98 Limited.
Replaced entire front end, steering rack, all joints, poly bushing, JBA control arms, Flex plate, rear main seal, trans cooler, radiator, thermostat, lots more. Truck is ready, 290k miles. The original owner is interested in buying it back, but it has been significantly upgraded. Frame has ZERO rust.
Thanks
 
Efi Fuse

Hi all,

Bought my 02 a little over 1.5 years ago w/ 290k miles. I've gotten some great use out of her up and down the US pacific coast. Of course she's had some problems (the current reason I joined the forum) with 300k miles but it's nothing I haven't been able to learn about (largely from this forum) and fix myself. Its been a bunch of fun but I've run into a stump. The following is my problem currently but don't feel burdened to read through it/respond. Trying to hit my 15 min posts.

The other day she blew the EFI fuse. It has happened before because of bad battery terminals, but I replaced them, cleaned them up, and the problem disappeared. Just the other day it happened again and repeatedly blew the fuses. I threw a 25 amp in and made it home but I haven't driven again for fear of melting the wires or causing bigger problems.

Here's everything I know. While warm, the EFI kept blowing. Even after cleaning the terminals and checking the grounds, the EFI blew again. After letting the car cool down, she drove until average temperature, and EFI blew again. After talking with an O'Reily's guy, he suggested temporarily throwing the 25 amp in to make it home. I was hesitant, but she made it home. Just today, I put the 20 amp back in, warmed her up and drove around the parking lot. She did fine, but I have little confidence to get back out on the road. I assume that because she ran on the 25 there isn't a short? Fuel pump perhaps pulling too many amps? Stumped on what the problem is.
 
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I would start checking other grounds on the car, you've got one going to fender, one from firewall to back of block. I thought the fuel injection harness had a ground on the block too...cant remember...and yours being 2002 could be different

while my current one has not done the big 3 wire set up, i have run an extra ground from frame to block
 
4Runner engine consistently hesitate or stutter while accelerating from around 50 mph

My 99 4Runner engine consistently hesitate or stutter for like 5 seconds while accelerating from around 50 mph up to around 60 mph.
It doesn't happen at any other speeds. No any check engine light or OBD2 scanner port on this old vehicle.
I guess it could be spark plugs, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor but could be something else, as this is a very consistent issue that happens only between 50 to 60 mph?

Thank you for your help!
 
My 99 4Runner engine consistently hesitate or stutter for like 5 seconds while accelerating from around 50 mph up to around 60 mph.
It doesn't happen at any other speeds. No any check engine light or OBD2 scanner port on this old vehicle.
I guess it could be spark plugs, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor but could be something else, as this is a very consistent issue that happens only between 50 to 60 mph?

Thank you for your help!

I would suspect throttle position sensor. I had a 2000 that did the same thing and no codes, I had recently battled a similar issue on my wife's volvo ( which did throw a code), so I thought I would give it a shot on my 4runner, and it fixed it.
they can get the contacts worn, I guess around those speeds as thats a pretty constant area.
there has been threads about after market ones being junk
 
hola fello 4runners, hope im doing this correctly. this might be my 1st real Q post.
Enjoy reading the posted questions quite insightful. Im in dire need of some advice. I have a 2000 non running 2wd limited 4 runner. just bought it 3 weeks ago. Ran great. Then i made a home depot chip key. Worked great. Used both OEM master chip key and the home depot chip key. 3 days later no start. Turns over, all electrical works. But security light will not stop blinking even when either key is inserted. I purchased a junkyard immobilizer ring and a computer for it, had both computer's memory cleared of old keys. Still light blinks, so truck still no start . I'm at a loss as to what to do? Has anyone gone through this? been reading a lot, but no info yet.

Would a home depot screw everything up? Does the computer need to be reprogramed? the key has no battery just a chip.
Any mystery fuse hidden somewhere? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated it.
I thank you all for reading this and for any answers offered.
 
hola fello 4runners, hope im doing this correctly. this might be my 1st real Q post.
Enjoy reading the posted questions quite insightful. Im in dire need of some advice. I have a 2000 non running 2wd limited 4 runner. just bought it 3 weeks ago. Ran great. Then i made a home depot chip key. Worked great. Used both OEM master chip key and the home depot chip key. 3 days later no start. Turns over, all electrical works. But security light will not stop blinking even when either key is inserted. I purchased a junkyard immobilizer ring and a computer for it, had both computer's memory cleared of old keys. Still light blinks, so truck still no start . I'm at a loss as to what to do? Has anyone gone through this? been reading a lot, but no info yet.

Would a home depot screw everything up? Does the computer need to be reprogramed? the key has no battery just a chip.
Any mystery fuse hidden somewhere? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated it.
I thank you all for reading this and for any answers offered.

I wonder if it also has some other alarm system in it too. I have read the computer can only take so many re-programs before it locks out. I dont know if that is true.

Luckily only one of my 4runners had a chipped key, it was the 2001, never had that POS long enough to have an issue with that part
 
I wonder if it also has some other alarm system in it too. I have read the computer can only take so many re-programs before it locks out. I dont know if that is true.

Luckily only one of my 4runners had a chipped key, it was the 2001, never had that POS long enough to have an issue with that part

Hey there, I certainly do appreciate the time you took to answer my query. Much obliged. Guess what? I got great news!! woo hoo hoo. I got the 4runner to run. Turns out it was a relay I had not checked before, since I didnt know what it was for. It was the EFI relay i switched it w the fog relay an wowza light stopped blinking and motor started right off. Wheew, it only took 180.00 to figure it out.
Huge lesson learned check every single fuse and relay. Thank you 3 bears and any one else that might have read my desperate post.
Now im installing a 3 channel camera just in case.
 
Has anyone done a diesel swap on 01-02 4runner? ive found lots of information on the 96-00 but trying to figure out if i need to swap transfer cases with being the electronic transfer case and if swapping to the vacuum booster pump instead of electronic is needed. Any information will be greatly appreciated or if there are any form links someone can refer to that would also be appreciated.
ALH 02
01 toyota 4runner sr5 automatic
 
Climate control lights not working

I recently changed the lights In my dashboard from green to a yellow ish color and I was going to follow through with the climate control lights but those were a pain in the ass to take out and they broke so I have to buy new ones, but I wired everything back up and the fan speed and temperature control seems to work fine but the air direction does not, can’t change it to defrost or any other setting just the front and top vents, anyone know what could be wrong?
 
Climate control lights and fan direction not working

I recently changed the lights In my dashboard from green to a yellow ish color and I was going to follow through with the climate control lights but those were a pain in the ass to take out and they broke so I have to buy new ones, but I wired everything back up and the fan speed and temperature control seems to work fine but the air direction does not, can’t change it to defrost or any other setting just the front and top vents, anyone know what could be wrong?
 
Control arms for 5.5 inch lift

So I have a 1997 limited 4x4 sitting on a 5.5 inch lift, I just recently shot out the bushings in my upper control arms and I’m just wondering if anyone would know the best options for controls arms considering my lift?
 
So I have a 1997 limited 4x4 sitting on a 5.5 inch lift, I just recently shot out the bushings in my upper control arms and I’m just wondering if anyone would know the best options for controls arms considering my lift?
There's not even 5.5" of droop travel in the front suspension stock. How are you getting 5.5" of lift? Is it drop bracket lift or something?

-Charlie
 
bubble in dash board

so i have a zit growing on my dashboard at the fuel gauge like thee black background is lifting,
prob nothing I can do with it, but wonder if it can get to the point that it interferes with the gas gauge needle
 
I was at the home stretch of an engine rebuild that has been a long time in the making since a shop diagnosed the failed head gasket. 2-3 weeks ago started assembling the engine, from knock sensor valley up, in my garage. My gf and other friend helped me drop it in and I assembled everything.

Now after filling with coolant, there is a good leak at the top and back of the engine, near intake manifold. I have a sinking feeling it's the coolant pipe near knock sensors, which I used fipg really carefully to seal. Does anyone know if there's a coolant line back in that mess I could've forgotten about? There doesn't appear to be a leak at the heater hoses
 
I was at the home stretch of an engine rebuild that has been a long time in the making since a shop diagnosed the failed head gasket. 2-3 weeks ago started assembling the engine, from knock sensor valley up, in my garage. My gf and other friend helped me drop it in and I assembled everything.

Now after filling with coolant, there is a good leak at the top and back of the engine, near intake manifold. I have a sinking feeling it's the coolant pipe near knock sensors, which I used fipg really carefully to seal. Does anyone know if there's a coolant line back in that mess I could've forgotten about? There doesn't appear to be a leak at the heater hoses

There are a number of coolant hoses back there (including under throttle body), you might want to double check all those connections and clamps.
 
Any recommendations for aftermarket headlights?

Hello everyone, I’m wondering if anyone has some recommendations for aftermarket headlights. My current 1998 SR5 doesn’t have high beams when I’m running my night beams (it seems as if my night beams are just my high beams). Since they are high beams, they are very bright and I’ve had a couple cars flash me back. I’ve resulted in just buying a new set of aftermarket headlights because it’s something I’ve wanted to do down the road. I’m looking for a pre-built set of headlights because I’ve heard that building them could get a bit complicated and I’m not the most educated with electrical. I like the look of the SRQ retrofits, but they are a bit pricey. Are there any other websites that sell aftermarket headlights that aren’t $500?
 
Hello everyone, I’m wondering if anyone has some recommendations for aftermarket headlights. My current 1998 SR5 doesn’t have high beams when I’m running my night beams (it seems as if my night beams are just my high beams). Since they are high beams, they are very bright and I’ve had a couple cars flash me back. I’ve resulted in just buying a new set of aftermarket headlights because it’s something I’ve wanted to do down the road. I’m looking for a pre-built set of headlights because I’ve heard that building them could get a bit complicated and I’m not the most educated with electrical. I like the look of the SRQ retrofits, but they are a bit pricey. Are there any other websites that sell aftermarket headlights that aren’t $500?


Sry no answer but a good question I need the answer to as well, and post number 7 lol.
 
Have new brakes and all hardware associated from MC all the way back, the only thing not brand new are lines, hoses, E cable, rear cylinders and booster. Brakes still fade almost to floor, they do hold but have long travel, and ebrake doesnt lock up the rear. Has new bell cranks and cables tight. Could an adjustment at handle be the issue with ebrake? Dont hear any more clicks from adjuster using the handle. Any ideas of pedal? Have bled A LOT with no air seen but..
 
Have new brakes and all hardware associated from MC all the way back, the only thing not brand new are lines, hoses, E cable, rear cylinders and booster. Brakes still fade almost to floor, they do hold but have long travel, and ebrake doesnt lock up the rear. Has new bell cranks and cables tight. Could an adjustment at handle be the issue with ebrake? Dont hear any more clicks from adjuster using the handle. Any ideas of pedal? Have bled A LOT with no air seen but..

If you have drum brakes on the rear and if the shoes aren't adjusted properly that will affect both of your issues!
 
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