The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[3bears]

Thanks for the info! do you know if there is a way to get rid of those cods without swapping the ECU. I have seen some things about shorting some wires or resisters or such but have not found any concrete info on what exactly to do.

Any info would be much appreciated.

when I lived in oregon there was a shop in creswell oregon called something like toyota only swaps
their specialty was doing what you are looking to do, and they sold parts etc related

they did more than that stuff and they did some mods on one of my 3rrd gens for me, thats how I knew about them but that was maybe 8 years ago so dont know if still around

 

[Rolo-]

when I lived in oregon there was a shop in creswell oregon called something like toyota only swaps
their specialty was doing what you are looking to do, and they sold parts etc related

they did more than that stuff and they did some mods on one of my 3rrd gens for me, thats how I knew about them but that was maybe 8 years ago so dont know if still around

It seems like they may have the stuff im looking for but they dont have any stock so they must be out of business.

Thanks for the info

 

[JohnMc]

Engaged the rear locker the other day to back out of my spot at home. We had about 7 or 8 inches of icy sleet/snow mix. Hit the button, it locked normally, I backed out of the spot. Got to the street and turned the locker off and. nothing happened. The lock light stayed on and steady. I tried turning it off and on, no change at all. I had to go to work, it's not far, so I just drove it with the rear locked. Pushing straight in corners, chirping tires on tighter turns, ah well.

After a couple of days the weather turned a bit less miserable so I was able to do some diagnostication on it.

No fuses blown, there are potentially 2 involved, one for the gauges that will prevent the light from lighting, clearly not an issue as the 'lock' light stays on (and the ABS off). And the '4WD' fuse, also in fine shape.

I briefly crawled under the rear to double check that the wires were still plugged into the actuator, all good under there.

Then I pulled the driver kick panel and did some basic multimeter tests at the locker ecu plug, all seemed good (although, derp, I was a wee bit confused when the transfer case wire wasn't doing what it was supposed to do, but then I recalled I did the gray wire mod on it 15 years ago, d'oh). Nothing seemed wrong here, other than what I couldn't easily test.

So I pulled the carpet up in the LR area, consulted a wiring diagram, and used a spare 12V battery to apply current directly to the M1/M2 pins. The motor locks or unlocks based on which way around the 12V+/GND is applied to them. Applied it one way, nothing. Applied it the other way, could clearly hear the actuator moving. So I got a jack, lifted one rear tire, and applying the current back and forth the axle would lock and unlock normally. Interesting. Left it 'manually' unlocked, and plugged the rear axle harness back in, and tried the dash locker button. And it locked normally (well mostly, it seemed a bit weaker?). Tried to unlock it, absolutely nothing. Looking carefully, I could see the dash lights dim every so slightly when I'd engage the locker via the button, for about 4 or 5 seconds (the amount of time the locker ECU will attempt to run the motor), then they'd return to normal. Nothing at all happened when I tried to unlock it.

So I unplugged it and manually unlocked it again with the spare battery. Plugged it back in and this time, trying to lock it via the dash button it made a little noise, but didn't fully lock The ECU not sending it enough current to actuate? Unplugged and locked/unlocked it several times via the spare battery, it worked normally.

Seems like enough suspicion on the locker ECU at this point, so I got on the internets and found one for $26 shipped, ordered it. That's an easy swap to see if anything changes.

 

[3bears]

Engaged the rear locker the other day to back out of my spot at home. We had about 7 or 8 inches of icy sleet/snow mix. Hit the button, it locked normally, I backed out of the spot. Got to the street and turned the locker off and. nothing happened. The lock light stayed on and steady. I tried turning it off and on, no change at all. I had to go to work, it's not far, so I just drove it with the rear locked. Pushing straight in corners, chirping tires on tighter turns, ah well.

After a couple of days the weather turned a bit less miserable so I was able to do some diagnostication on it.

No fuses blown, there are potentially 2 involved, one for the gauges that will prevent the light from lighting, clearly not an issue as the 'lock' light stays on (and the ABS off). And the '4WD' fuse, also in fine shape.

I briefly crawled under the rear to double check that the wires were still plugged into the actuator, all good under there.

Then I pulled the driver kick panel and did some basic multimeter tests at the locker ecu plug, all seemed good (although, derp, I was a wee bit confused when the transfer case wire wasn't doing what it was supposed to do, but then I recalled I did the gray wire mod on it 15 years ago, d'oh). Nothing seemed wrong here, other than what I couldn't easily test.

So I pulled the carpet up in the LR area, consulted a wiring diagram, and used a spare 12V battery to apply current directly to the M1/M2 pins. The motor locks or unlocks based on which way around the 12V+/GND is applied to them. Applied it one way, nothing. Applied it the other way, could clearly hear the actuator moving. So I got a jack, lifted one rear tire, and applying the current back and forth the axle would lock and unlock normally. Interesting. Left it 'manually' unlocked, and plugged the rear axle harness back in, and tried the dash locker button. And it locked normally (well mostly, it seemed a bit weaker?). Tried to unlock it, absolutely nothing. Looking carefully, I could see the dash lights dim every so slightly when I'd engage the locker via the button, for about 4 or 5 seconds (the amount of time the locker ECU will attempt to run the motor), then they'd return to normal. Nothing at all happened when I tried to unlock it.

So I unplugged it and manually unlocked it again with the spare battery. Plugged it back in and this time, trying to lock it via the dash button it made a little noise, but didn't fully lock The ECU not sending it enough current to actuate? Unplugged and locked/unlocked it several times via the spare battery, it worked normally.

Seems like enough suspicion on the locker ECU at this point, so I got on the internets and found one for $26 shipped, ordered it. That's an easy swap to see if anything changes.

hope you get it sorted out, 26 is cheap for one. I engage mine at least one time a month to keep it all working and not gum up

 

[JohnMc]

Lol, I meant to post that in the 'what did you do to your 4Runner today' thread.

 

[Isle Disaster]

I'm wondering the same thing and now that I think about it, most of that post seems completely absurd. Pretty sure I was duped by AI ridiculousness.

I’m sorry nope you weren’t duped at all. I’m a truck driver and haven’t been home to work on it until now. We ended up replacing the UCAs with new joints already in pressed. I learned a lot of lessons on this project and how to correctly measure ball joints.

When we bought her the entire front suspension was froze. Torches and lube weren’t loosening anything so we cut it most of it down and now own half of Harbor Frieght now too! When we replaced the UCAs the first time with the ball joints pressed in and then we got the steering knuckles in with ball joints and with my infinite wisdom cut the studs off the UCA side and then realized my mistake. And I couldn’t find the replacement for them and the ones (Moog) from the steering knuckles were too small. I mean frustrated and defeated said “screw it” and replaced the UCAs again. This time I didn’t fafo and am happy.


I do want to thank y’all for responding to my post though!! You guys are awesome.

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

I’m sorry nope you weren’t duped at all. I’m a truck driver and haven’t been home to work on it until now. We ended up replacing the UCAs with new joints already in pressed. I learned a lot of lessons on this project and how to correctly measure ball joints.

When we bought her the entire front suspension was froze. Torches and lube weren’t loosening anything so we cut it most of it down and now own half of Harbor Frieght now too! When we replaced the UCAs the first time with the ball joints pressed in and then we got the steering knuckles in with ball joints and with my infinite wisdom cut the studs off the UCA side and then realized my mistake. And I couldn’t find the replacement for them and the ones (Moog) from the steering knuckles were too small. I mean frustrated and defeated said “screw it” and replaced the UCAs again. This time I didn’t fafo and am happy.

I do want to thank y’all for responding to my post though!! You guys are awesome.

Glad to hear you got it all sorted out. :cheers:

 

[Dirkdiggler]

Electrical problems

Hey y’all, I got a ‘96 4Runner and it has been giving me some issues as of lately, just wondering if some of you have gone through this issue as well or may know where to start with my problem. Today driving to work in a snow storm I missed my corner and I hit the brakes the abs system kicked on and killed all my lights and power to the engine vehicle literally just died. I put it in park and it fired back up. I went to start it after work and it was dead, all I got was a click when turning it over I boosted it and it ran fine. It drove normally on the way home but it did it again when I hit the brakes near my house or if I turn on the 4 way flashers you can tell noticeably that the headlights dim. I have changed the alternator last week as the battery light was on and that seemed to solve my problem till now, I have also replaced the battery. I’m not sure what the issue is hopefully you guys got some ideas. Thank you!

 

[Beer Hounds]

Door seal help?

I am looking to replace the upper door trim/weatherstripping/seal (no idea the correct name) that goes from the front to rear door at the top. I need to replace the passenger side but I am not having any luck on here or the interwebs. Any ideas other than the junk yard?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Do you mean these?

If so, it's PN 62381-35011, and is unfortunately discontinued.

 

[Beer Hounds]

Do you mean these?

If so, it's PN 62381-35011, and is unfortunately discontinued.

Yes, that is it! Sucks it is discontinued, mine is a pancake lol

Anyone have any leads to these available somewhere?

 

[prybar]

Yes, that is it! Sucks it is discontinued, mine is a pancake lol

Anyone have any leads to these available somewhere?

pick n pull/any junkyard is where I've had luck getting those in the past

 

[DannyDa_3rd]

Intake water hose part number

Has anyone replaced those tiny hoses that are behind the fuel rails? on the 3.4. I've searched high and low and cant find a part number

 

[habanero]

Has anyone replaced those tiny hoses that are behind the fuel rails? on the 3.4. I've searched high and low and cant find a part number

Yes. Pic w/part numbers post#3721 habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 187 - YotaTech Forums

Howdy from across the river.

 

[96RedRunner]

Has anyone replaced those tiny hoses that are behind the fuel rails? on the 3.4. I've searched high and low and cant find a part number

TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU Been using a while for #'s, Searching by VIN gets specific sub-gen level.

 

[ACFloyd12]

Fan and Blower Motor Issues

New here! I have a 99' that has a crackling, fluttering sound under or around the glove box when I reach higher speeds greater than 40 MPH. I thought it was the rear fan, but it is not.

I am also dealing with the issue of barely any air coming out of my vents regardless of how high the air is on. I have ordered a new blower motor hoping that will fix that issue.

Finally, when I turn my air on to anything medium or higher, the loudest noises, sounding like a vacuum start going on and it is way too loud. Any thoughts or ideas on this?

 

[habanero]

New here! I have a 99' that has a crackling, fluttering sound under or around the glove box when I reach higher speeds greater than 40 MPH. I thought it was the rear fan, but it is not.

I am also dealing with the issue of barely any air coming out of my vents regardless of how high the air is on. I have ordered a new blower motor hoping that will fix that issue.

Finally, when I turn my air on to anything medium or higher, the loudest noises, sounding like a vacuum start going on and it is way too loud. Any thoughts or ideas on this?

Have you pulled your blower to see if the cage is simply full of stuff? I don't know about the 40mph part, but the rest fits well enough to check.

 

[ACFloyd12]

Have you pulled your blower to see if the cage is simply full of stuff? I don't know about the 40mph part, but the rest fits well enough to check.

I have not done it yet, I was going to wait for the replacement to get here and do it all at once and if I don't need the replacement, I would just return it. I will look into that though because it might be as simple as that. Its just so loud for no reason.

 

[AuSeeker]

I have not done it yet, I was going to wait for the replacement to get here and do it all at once and if I don't need the replacement, I would just return it. I will look into that though because it might be as simple as that. Its just so loud for no reason.

There's definitely a reason for the noise and low airflow, you just haven't found the issue yet

 

[BluebewyMuffin97]

Choosing between Dobinsons or OMEs as a 2-3 inch lift kit.

Hey guys, since this is a 3rd gen questions thread I though I might look for advice and suggestions here. I'm kind new to all this off roading and building rigs, so I'm pretty much starting with a "budget" (though that doesn't mean I necessarily want the cheapest) build on my '97 4Runner Limited. My dad bought it brand-new so it's been in my family for its whole life. I currently have Bilsteins on it (though I don't know the model) for stock height. I plan to build it into a light overlander/camper truck that's also comfortable for as a daily driver on the streets.

I'm saving up for suspension mods with a lift kit and anti-sway bars. For the lift kit I've been contemplating between the Dobinson's DSSKIT875 - DSSKIT875 kit which is 2-3 inches, and the Old Man Emu 1″FR, 2-3″RR Lift Kit. For anti-sway bars I've only found ones from Addco for the front and rear.

I'm looking for y'all's thoughts between Dobinson and OMEs since I know they're people's go-to besides Bilstein. I'm also concerned with the overall fitment of the lift, I guess, since the suspension tuning compensates for more weight on the front and rear for bumpers and stuff, and I want it to be a level 2-3 inches.

I do plan to get the Gobi roof rack and ladder, a Thule 2 bike rack, and a front bumper (maybe skid plate), so I do want the suspension tuned for that extra weight.

I'm curious which one may be better, and how to properly choose the shock settings for a 2.5" lift. And if you guys have any suspension suggestions (especially with what I plan to do with the car) I'm all ears. I also challenge y'all to find front and rear anti-sway bars because I can't seem to find anything else other than the Addco ones; maybe I'm looking in the wrong places or not hard enough.

P.S. If you read through all of that yap, thank you so much.:bravo: