The bolt from hell!

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PeteC

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I hope I never have to touch this bolt again. It took us 40 minutes to get it back in!

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Finally got it in though. Icon stage 2 with tubular UCA's. Thanks to [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] for the write up! And also [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and [MENTION=48991]sp8ball[/MENTION] for the companion write up.

Ran out of time but I am probably going to have to raise the front end a bit soon.
 
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It's pretty common to disconnect the sway bars when installing a new set of coil-overs up front. Allows for the LCA to drop down low enough to get the shock strut in. We disconnected the sway bars when we put in my Toytec Ultimate a few months ago. I don't have KDSS or anything like that I didn't have too much trouble re-attaching.

_coder
 
I vote that the bolt from hell is the one in the rear of the front shock upper mounts. Spent 2 hours trying to get that one in last night.
 
i have literally no respect for any vehicle running twin shocks or twin stabilizers. if the truck really needed more dampening, a bypass shock would have been fitted with the traditional shock.

pairs of identical twos = someone that has no idea what they're doing
 
PeteC said:

I hope I never have to touch this bolt again. It took us 40 minutes to get it back in![/QUOTE]
Use a floor jack under the sway bar and 2 pin punches to align the bolt holes. <5 minute job once you do it a few times.

[QUOTE="dahorst, post: 2112047, member: 109590"]I vote that the bolt from hell is the one in the rear of the front shock upper mounts. Spent 2 hours trying to get that one in last night.[/QUOTE]
You should immediately invest in a set of ratchet combination wrenches.
Click to expand...
 
What [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] said. Here's a pic from the last time I had the front swaybar detached. Took a large punch, ratchet strap, floor jack (not pictured), and vise grips to hold the bracket while I tightened the bolt.
 

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STX4Runner said:
What [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] said. Here's a pic from the last time I had the front swaybar detached. Took a large punch, ratchet strap, floor jack (not pictured), and vise grips to hold the bracket while I tightened the bolt.
Click to expand...
An air impact for the bolts makes it considerably faster/easier, too.
 
Agreed, that bolt was a serious PITA. I recently had to pull my coilovers to swap springs and opted to NOT pull those bolts. I was able to get the passenger side out not problem, but the driver side did not want to cooperate. I ended up removing the sway bar from the piston connection on the KDSS. Worked fine, put back was easier and had both sides reinstalled in just over an hour.
 
STX4Runner said:
What [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] said. Here's a pic from the last time I had the front swaybar detached. Took a large punch, ratchet strap, floor jack (not pictured), and vise grips to hold the bracket while I tightened the bolt.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what we ended up doing. Ratchet strap ended up being the savior. We almost had it multiple times without it but couldn't quite get it right. Felt like it was about to cross thread.
 
PeteC said:
This is exactly what we ended up doing. Ratchet strap ended up being the savior. We almost had it multiple times without it but couldn't quite get it right. Felt like it was about to cross thread.
Click to expand...

Yep, trick is to get the bottom bolt started since it is easier. Start tightening the bottom bolt and keep the top bolt hole in line with a punch. When you have the bottom bolt snugged up enough, the top bolt should go right in.
 
just wait until more of you guys do adjustable rear links. the driver's side upper is an absolute c*nt without dropping the gas tank.
 
Jeremy556 said:
Use a floor jack under the sway bar and 2 pin punches to align the bolt holes. <5 minute job once you do it a few times.


You should immediately invest in a set of ratchet combination wrenches.
Click to expand...

it wasn't a matter of undoing it or fastening it, it was a matter of:

1. lining up the holes properly to the bold through the shock + mount
2. getting the bolt back there - it's a super tight spot!
 
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