The LFD Off Road Thread

Do the outside welded tabs on both sides of the cross member of your transfer case skid plate sit flush to the bottom of the frame? I spent about 4 hours the other day just trying to get them to sit flush with no luck. One side of the welded tab makes contact with the frame and on the other there is about a 1/4-1/2” gap and this on both sides. Not sure if it’s a big deal or not, but I would like to get it flush if there is a way to do it.

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Mine was tight... it took some wiggling, and did you ensure that the bracket for the brake lines was completely clear?

I am going to be dropping mine this month for maintenance and repainting. I will be doing a video about the process. Hopefully I can get some footage of how it all fits together.
 
Mine was tight... it took some wiggling, and did you ensure that the bracket for the brake lines was completely clear?

I am going to be dropping mine this month for maintenance and repainting. I will be doing a video about the process. Hopefully I can get some footage of how it all fits together.


I was a bit weary of pulling the bracket out too much so the tab at the top of the inner side is the bracket that goes into the little hole in the frame is still in place. Thinking maybe this could be what is keeping it from sitting flush? I’ll try and see if I can get the the brake line tab completely free from the frame and try jacking it up again.
 
I was a bit weary of pulling the bracket out too much so the tab at the top of the inner side is the bracket that goes into the little hole in the frame is still in place. Thinking maybe this could be what is keeping it from sitting flush? I’ll try and see if I can get the the brake line tab completely free from the frame and try jacking it up again.

I moved the brake line and its bracket quite a bit for both the RCI skidplate and the LFD skidplate (which is a better design in my opinion). I didn't have any problems with the brakes or the bracket afterwards, but it is still tight.

ALSO - make sure you leave yourself plenty of room on the bolts of the forward skids. This just makes it easier all the way around.
 
I moved the brake line and its bracket quite a bit for both the RCI skidplate and the LFD skidplate (which is a better design in my opinion). I didn't have any problems with the brakes or the bracket afterwards, but it is still tight.

ALSO - make sure you leave yourself plenty of room on the bolts of the forward skids. This just makes it easier all the way around.


Thanks, I’ll give this a try later this evening and report back.
 
I was able to get everything I wanted on with 5 crossbars. Awning, Hi-lift Jack, 4 gallon Rotopax, and XBulls. Maybe I'll put a shovel on it, just have to figure out how to do it. Moonroof has a fully open view. I was able to keep from getting a 6th crossbar by mounting the 4 gallon Rotopax with just the center mount. It was plenty stable. I may eventually stack another 4 gallon on top of the original one for an 8 gallon capacity.
 

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I purchased two Ruggedized Crossbar from LFD and they are perfect. I also got a wind fairing and need to bolt it to a cross bar, but it loses a crossbar for using it how I need (kayak rack, etc). Do I buy one more Ruggedized Crossbar to attach the wind fairing, or is there something easier and cheaper? I have a ‘20 4Runner with a Trail rack.
 
I purchased two Ruggedized Crossbar from LFD and they are perfect. I also got a wind fairing and need to bolt it to a cross bar, but it loses a crossbar for using it how I need (kayak rack, etc). Do I buy one more Ruggedized Crossbar to attach the wind fairing, or is there something easier and cheaper? I have a ‘20 4Runner with a Trail rack.

LFD now has a cross bar with the wind fairing built in. I would recommend that as a better solution than just buying another crossbar.

LFD Off Road - Integrated Wind Faring Crossbar

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I purchased two Ruggedized Crossbar from LFD and they are perfect. I also got a wind fairing and need to bolt it to a cross bar, but it loses a crossbar for using it how I need (kayak rack, etc). Do I buy one more Ruggedized Crossbar to attach the wind fairing, or is there something easier and cheaper? I have a ‘20 4Runner with a Trail rack.

I was able to use mine. I have a Hi-Lift mount, my XBull mounts, and my Ironman Awning Quick Release Bracket on it.
 

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I have 1 steel and 4 aluminum. My steel one still looks fine 1.5 years later. My recommendation would be to get a can of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer and spray it on there. Then spray Rust-Oleum Paint+Primer Semi-gloss black on it.
 
Do the outside welded tabs on both sides of the cross member of your transfer case skid plate sit flush to the bottom of the frame? I spent about 4 hours the other day just trying to get them to sit flush with no luck. One side of the welded tab makes contact with the frame and on the other there is about a 1/4-1/2” gap and this on both sides. Not sure if it’s a big deal or not, but I would like to get it flush if there is a way to do it.

c1c21df8a6228eb87304d7ec220037a4.jpg


5f2d35770a4e0de8a1db3612514a0cc1.jpg

I installed an LFD Transfer Case Skid earlier this year and noticed the same thing. So I asked LFD (via their support page) why the "ears" welded on the ends of the skid which attach to the frame rails are slanted and don't sit down flat on the bottom surface of the frame rails. This was their reply:

"Those ears are made like that for removal after the skid has been used, from impacts it can bend slightly and that allows you to be able to pry it off against the frame."
 

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