The "real" durability of timing belt and water pump on 5VZFE?

[BamaDrewski]

Picked up a 2001 Toyota Tacoma truck (With 5VZFE engine) for my boy with 212K on the odometer. The timing belt and water pump had never been changed. The coolant was never flushed and we took the wrenches to it. This is what we found (Keep in kind the timing belt, pulleys and tensioner were never changed)

1. The water pump had leaked for many years. The coolant had crystallized over time and run down around the water pump and dripped onto the crank shaft.

2. The timing belt was still intact but had a series of small cracks which made it look like “snake skin”. It was not far from failing after 212K miles.

3. Pulleys and tensioner seemed good but we swapped them out for new anyways.

4. Coolant: The coolant was Toyota Red but we decided to use the ThermoCure over a series of three flushes with distilled water. The first flush resulted in chocolate brown water (running the flush through the heater core with the heat on high)

5. Coolant: 2nd coolant flush (Distilled water only): the 2nd flush produced a “sweet tea” colored drain – half the color of the initial flush.

6. Coolant: 3rd coolant flush (Distilled water only): the 3rd flush resulted in slightly brown water from the cooling system – good enough (IMO) to replace with fresh distilled and Toyota red.

OPINION: Clearly, after 212K miles on the original timing belt and water pump, the first thing to fail was the water pump seal. (The pump bearings were still tight). The belt however was on it’s last leg.

CURIOSITY: With 212K on the original belt (and no failure) I am really wondering if the recommended 90K Timing Belt change is necessary. I am wondering if it would be safe to extend that interval (especially for us DIY’rs) to somewhere around 140-150K miles?

What is your opinion/experience?

 

[absalom]

Technically, these are interference engines. I’m not sure I’d risk it.

Edit: I stand corrected It seems I was mixing up the 5vz and the 2uz

 

[AntleredRuin]

I changed my TB and WP a few months ago at 181k.
I know the TB had been replaced by the OP at 87k, but I'm not sure if the WP was replaced then as well.

So the WP either had 181k on it, or 94k, (just overdue, according to Toyota).

I had done the job because my WP seal started leaking horrendously, to the point where I started keeping several extra gallons of distilled water with me while waiting for the TB/WB kit to be delivered.
The TB still looked to be in great shape, but I replaced it anyways (I'd already bought the part, and I was already in there).

I'm not sure of the OP's maintenance on the cooling system, but it did have green/brown coolant when I first got it (so it was probably topped off/refilled at some point by people who didn't know not to mix colors).
The week after I bought it, at 132k, I flushed it with a bottle of radiator cleaner and about 10 gallons of distilled water until it came out perfectly clear, then filled with Toyota Red. I made sure the T-Stat was at 6 o'clock, and the temps stayed around 185-193 regularly.
I've since done 3 drain and fills of the radiator with Zerex, and replaced the radiator due to it splitting from old age. It went fine that way for right about 50k, until the WP started leaking.
The WP seal probably would have gone further if the coolant colors weren't mixed up, and it I wasn't forced to use a radiator cleaner solvent, etc.

Long story short, while 212k may be pushing it, I'd feel safe pushing it 150k easy, as long as seals are good, and you periodically pull the cover to check the belt for cracks.

Technically, these are interference engines. I’m not sure I’d risk it.

Nope, the 3.4 is non-interference.

 

[PRG3K]

Technically, these are interference engines. I’m not sure I’d risk it.

Non-interference. Valves do not enter the chamber.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mikesayboom]

mine has about 150,xxx on it right now but about to order the timing belt kit to change everything out next month.

comes from honda's where if the timing belt goes bad you lose the whole engine. ive been so nervous about running it so long on this car. Kind of kicking myself in the ass for not getting to it a year ago when i had time.

 

[sleepydad]

Picked up a 2001 Toyota Tacoma truck (With 5VZFE engine) for my boy with 212K on the odometer. The timing belt and water pump had never been changed. The coolant was never flushed and we took the wrenches to it. This is what we found (Keep in kind the timing belt, pulleys and tensioner were never changed)

What is your opinion/experience?

I put 150K on my last 2002 and never did belt or water pump, however I did flush and replace coolant. the timing belt still looked great and nothing was leaking. I think people get overly uppity about the timing belt and neglect all other fluids.

as long as the water pump is not leaking, as long as the timing belt looks good. leave it alone. changing the fluids on a regular basis seems to help the other stuff last much longer IMO.

 

[BamaDrewski]

I put 150K on my last 2002 and never did belt or water pump, however I did flush and replace coolant. the timing belt still looked great and nothing was leaking. I think people get overly uppity about the timing belt and neglect all other fluids.

as long as the water pump is not leaking, as long as the timing belt looks good. leave it alone. changing the fluids on a regular basis seems to help the other stuff last much longer IMO.

This is good input. Toyota builds things to last and I think that although 90K is a good "boundary" for timing belt changes, this recent experience shows that the TB can last much longer than the 90K interval......

I have no desire to "suicide" my rig but at the same time, I am also not interested in spending $$$$ where it might be wasteful....

 

[phattyduck]

I just replaced the timing belt on mine around 180k after the last one (as far as I could tell). The first replacement was done just before 90k at the dealer. Everything was is good shape for the mileage.

I have a feeling that if you use all OEM parts (idlers, tensioner, belt, WP, thermostat, etc.) and keep up on maintenance (coolant flushes with Toyota Red) you are actually safe up to 180k... but 90k miles is still many years for most people. And if you do the work yourself, not really that expensive...

-Charlie

 

[Mark_BC]

What about how old it is, not just how many miles it has?

 

[snivilous]

Technically, these are interference engines. I’m not sure I’d risk it.

5VZ is non-interference.


I would judge it by the belt how long you want to stretch it out. The belts I've changed were at the suggested interval and looked totally fine, considering it's like $300 to change everything and go another 100k at least I probably wouldn't tempt getting stranded, but on the flip side if I was tight on money I would have no issue stretching the life of the belt.

 

[Crammit442]

Definitely non-interference. Did my '97 at around 115k, water pump was still good. Did it next at around 250k. Water pump was still good, but changed it since I was already in there. FWIW, the FSM says run straight Toyota Red. No water added. When the plastic top of my radiator finally started leaking around 290k, it was still shiny inside running straight Toyota Red. As long as you don't mind the potential tow, my experience has been 100-125k is probably no problem.
Charles

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I just replaced the timing belt on mine around 180k after the last one (as far as I could tell). The first replacement was done just before 90k at the dealer. Everything was is good shape for the mileage.

I have a feeling that if you use all OEM parts (idlers, tensioner, belt, WP, thermostat, etc.) and keep up on maintenance (coolant flushes with Toyota Red) you are actually safe up to 180k... but 90k miles is still many years for most people. And if you do the work yourself, not really that expensive...

-Charlie

Same here - just replaced all the original items (timing belt, w.p., tensioner, idlers, etc) with 175K on them. All of them looked pretty good.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I picked up a similarly neglected one a few years back. Water pump is the first to start leaking but it will also start to fail. Some of the HG problems people have with the 3.4L is not a design flaw but running the water pump for too long. The 3.0L has a design flaw.

I'm not surprised at all it made it that long. 90k really is over-conservative but you can't fault Toyota for not saying "sure it'll last 200k miles".

 

[kolelt]

If the timing belt snaps on these. Nothing will happen to the engine.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Congrats BD! Pics? If in doubt, change it. Don't forget the Liqui Moly.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm not surprised at all it made it that long. 90k really is over-conservative but you can't fault Toyota for not saying "sure it'll last 200k miles".

My parent's first Toyota ('90 Camry 4-cylinder) made it to 183k miles on the original t-belt. That one has a 60k replacement interval, but was never listed in the owners manual as a maintenance item!

Unlike VW and some other manufacturers, Toyota is VERY conservative with maintenance intervals. If fluids are kept up, the mechanical systems last much longer than expected.

-Charlie

 

[TheDurk]

I decided that 120k was a good interval for mine, which works out to about 11 years. TB and WP from first change looked great. It probably could have gone longer, but itstarted getting in my head, so I changed it, and did tensioner, both idlers, 'stat and hoses. At 240k I'll skip the tensioner, but do the cam and crank seals. I'm due probably in 2020.

 

[Hepar]

I decided that 120k was a good interval for mine, which works out to about 11 years. TB and WP from first change looked great. It probably could have gone longer, but itstarted getting in my head, so I changed it, and did tensioner, both idlers, 'stat and hoses. At 240k I'll skip the tensioner, but do the cam and crank seals. I'm due probably in 2020.

I had similar thoughts. Just did them last year at 110k. I'd much prefer a bit of piece of mind over testing longevity. But good to know that they can last a while!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Definitely non-interference. Did my '97 at around 115k, water pump was still good. Did it next at around 250k. Water pump was still good, but changed it since I was already in there. FWIW, the FSM says run straight Toyota Red. No water added. When the plastic top of my radiator finally started leaking around 290k, it was still shiny inside running straight Toyota Red. As long as you don't mind the potential tow, my experience has been 100-125k is probably no problem.
Charles

Straight Red? No water? Where in the FSM does it say this? Cannot be right.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Straight Red? No water? Where in the FSM does it say this? Cannot be right.

He means no pre mix antifreeze I am guessing.....