The "real" durability of timing belt and water pump on 5VZFE?

A couple years ago a friend of mine with a 98 broke down with a broken timing belt,it had 300k on it and according to him had never been replaced,the shop he used(he's not very mechanical)that towed it in told him that the engine was toast not repairable,I informed him that the engine was non interference and it should be ok,he ignored my advice and sold it for $500 to a guy who worked for him(actually a good deal with almost new tires)anyhow couple months later I find out that after he replaced the the belt the truck is still alive and well,just my 2 cents...
 
I do strongly believe that all auxiliary parts (idler, water pump, seals, tensioners) should be replaced with the belt together.

I agree with what your saying on auxiliary parts if truck is new to you.
With my 96 I did the belt only @125K puchased @74k knew dealer maint history.
Aux stuff felt good, @240k Aircabinman kit.
Purchased 01 2-17 198k no dealer records, all from indy shop, records show belt changed at 135k nothing about Aux stuff @208k now, have aircabinman kit on shelf.
 
I just do it abut 90,000 interval it's not expensive if you do it yourself and the peace of mind for another 90,000 miles is worth it.
 
Thinking belt might be on backwards? I put mine on like that first. then the crank register mark on belt did not line up with imprinted dot on crank gear at 3:00 position. The top dot of crank gear was lined up with 12:00 position dot on front of block, but the mark on belt supposed to line up with another dot on gear. Then Realized left/right is driver facing, not mechanic facing. I swapped it around then the crank register mark on belt lined up proper with the dot on crank gear at 3:00 and the 12:00 marks lined up too.

I don't think it's a problem though as long as teeth lined up. If it's running well, all is good.

301542d1529104696-real-durability-timing-belt-water-pump-5vzfe-20180612_142545.jpg

i did it like this as well the first time. they are just for reference. i always install belts so i can read the printing.
 
i did it like this as well the first time. they are just for reference. i always install belts so i can read the printing.

301542d1529104696-real-durability-timing-belt-water-pump-5vzfe-20180612_142545.jpg

Same thing, just the other way, but with conventional left and right on motor:

2n3k2h.png


That way, you can line up the 3:00 reference on crank with gear dot. That's the reference that did not line up when I first did it your way, it was closer to 6:00 and far away from the dot, and I realized what I did.

2ltt354.png


But the 12:00 reference against block is pretty easy to see that it's lined up also, so that helps bring it together. I don't think there's enough slack in the belt get registrations lined up your way, and the 12:00 against block lined up, but miss a tooth on belt against crank gear, so it's all good.

34ht9fl.png
 
280,000 and the Water pump seized. Belt still looked ok but i figured what the heck, I've already got it torn down and a new belt.
 
Changed out my original timing belt, water pump, and idler at 275k miles. The water pump and idler bearing were still perfect, the belt definitely had some cracking. I don’t plan on changing this one until at least 400k miles.
 
Changed out my original timing belt, water pump, and idler at 275k miles. The water pump and idler bearing were still perfect, the belt definitely had some cracking. I don’t plan on changing this one until at least 400k miles.

Did the idler bearings feel rough at that high mileage? I would think the grease is usually dried up by then.
 
I disagree with the sentiment that it put off, at least with regards to changing the coolant. Timing belt and pump can probably be put off a long time but if you dont change the coolant you risk issues with the heads down the road.
Yeah, why not change the coolant? At least make sure it's not brown, then just do a drain and fill of the radiator every 10k or so with Zerex. That'll clean out roughly half of the old coolant every time, and take you maybe 20 minutes.
 
Non Interference?

5VZ is non-interference.


I would judge it by the belt how long you want to stretch it out. The belts I've changed were at the suggested interval and looked totally fine, considering it's like $300 to change everything and go another 100k at least I probably wouldn't tempt getting stranded, but on the flip side if I was tight on money I would have no issue stretching the life of the belt.

What do you mean by non-interference? Does that mean the timing belt breaking will not ruin the engine?
 
What do you mean by non-interference? Does that mean the timing belt breaking will not ruin the engine?

What phattyduck says is true though you may damage the TB covers which is no biggy. But it might break when your pulling out in front of something really big final destination type stuff.
 
What phattyduck says is true though you may damage the TB covers which is no biggy. But it might break when your pulling out in front of something really big final destination type stuff.
They most often break at/near idle, surprisingly. I had one break on an old Camry in traffic on the freeway around 5mph... (the slow pulses at low RPM put the most strain on the belt)

I almost mentioned the possibility of messing other parts up under the timing cover, but it is pretty low risk there too... The belt just often just get jammed between a couple pullies.

-Charlie
 
I had my TB and WP replaced at around 200k the first time (pretty sure it hadn't been done previously) a d then I just did it again myself this past May, at around 360k. Parts looked pretty good, all in all, and I kept them for spares. The main reason I tore into it really was to replace the (badly) leaking front crank seal - it literally FELL out when I finally got to it. Yikes.

So did all that, and put a new T-stat in, and my lousy mileage of around 16-17 mpg immediately improved to 20! I was amazed! But now I'm back to mystified and disappointed again, as it has fallen in the last month or so back into the same 16-17 range. No serious change in driving habits, tires, etc. It's been showing a CEL code of P0125 for a couple years now, and I'd hoped that the TB replacement job would fix it, but then the light popped on again after only a few miles. I'm not running big tires or have it lifted, and I don't drive like a maniac (tho my wife disagrees with that).

I've got a K&N perf CAI system in it, tho without the separator plenum. I cleaned the MAF carefully with MAF cleaner back in April or May as well, along with a new air filter element. Any ideas? Upstream O2 sensor maybe?
 
Just did a timing belt on an 04 Tacoma with 135k miles. Everything looks fine and solid except for the belt, if you fold the belt in half you’ll se micro cracks. Easily last another 30k miles.
 
On my 5 speed 97 4 runner. Not only was the TB never done. Neither were the spark plugs or the belts. The rig had 118k miles on it 21 years old at the time.

When I bought it I saw the belts were ready to break. So I peaked in the upper timing belt cover and saw that the TB looked original. The TB tensioner was seized as well.

When I went to Pull the 3 belts off my AC belt adjuster snapped as it was never moved. That was fun to get out and replace. My power steering adjuster bolt was seized but I worked it and got moving.




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