the Rescue Runner build thread
- Thread starter the great him
- Start date
the great him
Elite Member
so im gonna be posting up some updates tomorrow, too tired to do it now, but replaced all the IFS last night and today(left the UCA and UBJ cause ill be going to LR UCAs in a few months so. its still at the shop and tomorrow its gonna be getting an alignment, and then im going to another shop to roll some heads for some pretty major damages caused by carelessness, and stupidity.
the great him
Elite Member
welp im back, but at this point only to sell my runner... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-vehicles/150437-fs-1997-4runner-sr5-4wd-$7-000-vancouver-wa.html
looking to upgrade into a LC100 series because of the room and towing capabilities.
looking to upgrade into a LC100 series because of the room and towing capabilities.
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the great him
Elite Member
so ive been looking at a few 100 series... tell me what you guys think...
Toyota : Land Cruiser Base Sport Utility 4-Door in Toyota | eBay Motors
im not big on the black color but...
Toyota : Land Cruiser Base Sport Utility 4-Door in Toyota | eBay Motors
i really want this one even though it does not have the factory locker...
Toyota : Land Cruiser TRD SUPERCHARGED (RARE - RARE - RARE) in Toyota | eBay Motors
Toyota : Land Cruiser Base Sport Utility 4-Door in Toyota | eBay Motors
im not big on the black color but...
Toyota : Land Cruiser Base Sport Utility 4-Door in Toyota | eBay Motors
i really want this one even though it does not have the factory locker...
Toyota : Land Cruiser TRD SUPERCHARGED (RARE - RARE - RARE) in Toyota | eBay Motors
drdolittlerwc
New member
Hey, I was looking over the threads and noticed you are in WYO. What part? I was in (of course, a while ago) Laramie to attend WYO TECH in '89. Ya, I know, ancient of days ago....
Been through a few times though, I love WYO... It's rugged!
farmerjon
Senior Member
[MENTION=10182]smallfry[/MENTION] is in Sheridan, WY. I live across the mountain (though am currently in IN for school).
drdolittlerwc
New member
Cool, I'm passin' below you in a couple months on our way to Belize. FINALLY, our stateside trip is about to end........:bounce:
the great him
Elite Member
so i got the 4runner back tonight, all aligned and good as new. the hour and a half drive home was amazing, no more driver fatigue from sloppy steering, its almost as though now its too dangerous cause im so relaxed i could drift off to sleep... and syl-glide takes care of any squeaks from the poly bushings, it was quiet and smooth. cruised at 70mph on the fwy down the gorge and it was like driving a new truck. the only other complaint(if you can even call these complaints) is that now i can feel everything else wrong with it lol, the new rear drive shaft will be going in tomorrow and i will soon need to address the rear wiggle from downshifts, i think the rear bushings and control arms are the next on the agenda.
so yeah the wife is happy now, she said we dont have to sell, so its off the market guys, sorry
so yeah the wife is happy now, she said we dont have to sell, so its off the market guys, sorry
4Running Daily
New member
So, for those that don't feel inclined to read, what exactly did this recent alignment do differently?
pdx650
Member
The wife will never understand this. Sure, it has only 4 cylinders, but it can go some places still. Might need to upgrade to the Cummins 4BT diesel or the TRD supercharger.
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the great him
Elite Member
i installed new LCA bushings, poly bushings to be exact, made by whiteline, part number w53377
Whiteline Suspension Parts - Part Number W53377 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner
they did the job.
the cheap bushings that came with my cheap(last time i try to save a few bucks on parts) LCA were crap, thsy pooped the bed. none of the techs could figure it out, cause with the truck sitting still and no movement they look fine, all new like everything else not deformed or anything. but when you put a load on them like say driving the truck, even slowly in the shop things turn to jello and they cant hold form, but as soon as they jack it up or put it on a lift and take the weight off of them everything looks perfect.
it wasnt till the father inlaw and i sat down and started looking at everything as a whole -receipts and all, did we get to thinking, that maybe just maybe the budget parts could be sub-standard (typically im not a guy to buy budget anything, but i was trying to keep a woman happy(thats a futile mission gentlemen) and not spend so much money especially when i had just lost my full time job... anyhow it ended up costing us much more in the long run... all told in parts i spent about $1300, and labor would have been free, but three shops later and 6 attempts at an alignment two weeks of head scratching by 7 or 8 techs, well that was upwards of $800, and thats with labor at cost at the dealer... i would have saved money even if i had just but brand new OEM LCA directly from toyota...
all is good in the hood now though
Whiteline Suspension Parts - Part Number W53377 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner
they did the job.
the cheap bushings that came with my cheap(last time i try to save a few bucks on parts) LCA were crap, thsy pooped the bed. none of the techs could figure it out, cause with the truck sitting still and no movement they look fine, all new like everything else not deformed or anything. but when you put a load on them like say driving the truck, even slowly in the shop things turn to jello and they cant hold form, but as soon as they jack it up or put it on a lift and take the weight off of them everything looks perfect.
it wasnt till the father inlaw and i sat down and started looking at everything as a whole -receipts and all, did we get to thinking, that maybe just maybe the budget parts could be sub-standard (typically im not a guy to buy budget anything, but i was trying to keep a woman happy(thats a futile mission gentlemen) and not spend so much money especially when i had just lost my full time job... anyhow it ended up costing us much more in the long run... all told in parts i spent about $1300, and labor would have been free, but three shops later and 6 attempts at an alignment two weeks of head scratching by 7 or 8 techs, well that was upwards of $800, and thats with labor at cost at the dealer... i would have saved money even if i had just but brand new OEM LCA directly from toyota...
all is good in the hood now though
92-SR5
New member
Exactly,
Someday I will swap a 1kz-te diesel into my runner. Not anytime soon, just someday. :tongue:
On another note, glad you got it figured out and are keeping it man.
Sorry if I missed it, but I could sure use some more info on a second trans cooler and fan install! Currently running a 70624 but it definitely does NOT do the job for 4x4 operation... want a second cooler and fans for both, and will be replacing my rad at the same time. Can you still recommend the fans you had installed? Was it difficult? Also, can you check their current catalog and give me the exact part # of the ones you went with? http://perma-cool.com/catalog.pdf :rockon:
the great him
Elite Member
i think i used the 13511, not sure 100% but it looks correct. its run after my first initial trans cooler the B&M 70264. there is a filter before the coolers, and then again after the coolers Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter , as the trans really has no filter. i only have the one fan, and that single little fan will make a huge difference. -i origonally had it hooked up on a constant power source when i turned the key on, but now that its cooled down and fall is here it is cooling so much that im barely seeing temps of 120, so i have unplugged it, and am running it off of a thermo switch that turns the fan on at 180 and wont come back off until 160. the fan typically does not run for very long, when it comes on.
In retrospect, do you feel a single 70268 B&M + the fan would provide sufficient cooling? Really the only time I EVER have the temp exceed 200f (at least, according to my scanguage ll) is driving slow in 4wd Hi... definitely want a trans filter though! Do I really need 2 of those as well, or was that overkill on your part? I wonder why more members don't run one?
the great him
Elite Member
so just looked back at my build and then at the perma cool catalog closer, and its not the 13511, but rather the 13515. thats the cooler i have.
no i do not think the 70268 even with a fan will be enough. its just not big enough, a 70268 would be ok on a stock runner that was a daily driver, but not on something that goes off road. i was just out with a [MENTION=56510]criera[/MENTION] today, and in the storm we had, climbing a moderate hill -paved, forest service road, ~25mph for 15 min or so he was at 205, and he is using the factory radiator as well to help regulate the temps... while i was still at 170(with out the fan). i decided to hook the fan up to constant run for the day just to see what it was going to do. i knew today was going to consist of a lot of loads and slow speeds so i figured this would be a good way to really test the fan under loads, with it running constant i never saw over 160 even under climbs and loads.
if you want to run just one cooler, id do the perma-cool 13515 and call it a day. but finding a fan that will not only mount to and fit properly on a B&M could prove to be a task and end up a bigger headache than its worth -just my opinion. its not just as easy as puting a fan on a cooler, it needs to have a fan shroud and be a fan that is designed to push air, not pull, the perma cool it built that way.
as far as the dual filters go, no i dont think its necessary, and yes its over kill, but thats how i do stuff. i like cheap insurance, and dual filters gives that to me. i change them out every 2 or three oil changes and never worry about it, i also am going to be putting on on the power steering system, along with a smaller B&M cooler as well. again probably not needed, but it wont hurt a darn thing and it will ensure that i dont overheat the PS system when in snow or the rocks.
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