The Tomey Build Thread

[michaeljtomey]

Welcome to The Tomey Build Thread.

I've been needing to do this for awhile now but here it goes! I will do my best to go back in time and show you not only what I have done but also how I did it. I bought the truck for $1500 with 352,000 miles bone stock. I do my best to do all of the work and mods myself with the help of my uncle for the more difficult repairs and part replacements.

Please enjoy and provide feedback.
I will gladly answer every question to the best of my ability.

By popular demand, I make grilles like mine for sale. See www.4runnergrille.com


The Tomey Build Thread Guide
Personal Favorite Photo Gallery (Instagram)
6-Switch Overhead Control Panel
Rock/Camping Lights
LED Light Bar Waterproofing
Garage Door Button Design


1996 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD
383,000 miles


How she sits as of April 2016
<img src="http://4runnergrille.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/baja-0514.jpg" border="0" style="width:800px" alt=" photo IMG_5467.jpg"/>​

ENGINE
- Heads replaced @ 352,000 miles


DRIVETRAIN
- Re-manufactured Transmission @ 374,000 miles
- 4.10 gearing


UNDER THE HOOD
- Optima Yellowtop Battery
- 12 Fuse Block w/ Custom Bracket
- K&N 57-9013 FIPK Performance Air Intake System
- B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler
- Magnefine Inline Magnetic Automatic Transmission Filter 3/8"
- MJT 4Runner Grille Fab Fuse Block Bracket


SUSPENSION
Front:
- Bilstein 5100 Tundra 5-step adjustable set 0"
- OME 883 (3" lift)

Rear:
- Bilstein 5125
- OME 891 (3" lift)


WHEELS AND TIRES
- 265/70/R17 BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO2
- Method Racewheels Standard 6x5.5 (139.7mm) 17x8.5


EXTERIOR
- Whitson Metalworks Rack
- 180W 33" Light Bar
- 18W Side Lights
- 9W Rock Lights
- Bond Shovel
- 4 Gallon Rotopax
- 4' FireStik on InSain Fab Mount
- MJT 4Runner Grille Fab Grille
- WeatherTech Wind Deflectors
- Trasharoo
- Clear signal lights
- Lots of black powder-coating
- ForeverWave CB Sleeve + Flag


INTERIOR
- Pioneer Headunit
- Custom 6-Switch Overhead Control Panel
- Cobra CB
- Custom CB mic mount
- WeatherTech Floor Mats
- 12V "hot" Trunk Plug
- Rear Hatch LEDs

 

[michaeljtomey]

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/IMG_1447.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_1447.jpg"/>
MAY 28, 2015

I couldn't help but introduce myself. She was sitting there alone and I could tell she was thirsty. She was quick to unlock and let me inside. I took my stance, grabbed her by the wheel, and revved her until she was hot to the touch. It was love at first sight.

 

[kiana]

This is gonna be a great build thread, bookmarked will be keeping track! Keep posting :clap2:

 

[kurticus91]

Looking forward to some great photos on here

 

[michaeljtomey]

6-Switch Overhead Control Panel
July 2015
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/2ae892c1f318d096513bd9d4d3025902.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2ae892c1f318d096513bd9d4d3025902.jpg"/>

I bet I'm not the only one who struggled to find a place to mount my switches. My goal was to find a location where I could mount as many switches as possible in an easily accessible spot that I could access at night without looking around. My solution was this 6-switch overhead control panel.

I started by removing the stock dome light unit to figure out my mounting points. My design is a result of making it as small as possible while fitting the electronics easily. I used SolidWorks to design a model and went to work. I chose wood as the material because it is the easiest for me to work with using my available tools and resources.

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/IMG_2761.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_2761.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/IMG_2823.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_2823.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/ce4b186bf8269155ef8474a9977bf4bf.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo ce4b186bf8269155ef8474a9977bf4bf.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/319f257f71c4d1d7fb4e7b12936c9f5c.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 319f257f71c4d1d7fb4e7b12936c9f5c.jpg"/>

Got it all wired up on this side! Now to the fuse block:

I used a blue sea systems 12-circuit fuse block with a negative terminal. I also added 2 more terminal blocks so I could wire my accessory straight to the block and keep under the hood organized. I fabbed a bracket from 24 gauge steel sheet and powder-coated it black. Its mounted on two bolts--one fixed, the second an open slot to allow for the whole bracket to pivot.

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/IMG_2822.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_2822.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/c192ab6a-f248-4d7f-9655-1a6506227b56.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo c192ab6a-f248-4d7f-9655-1a6506227b56.jpg"/>


REDESIGN for new bracket that I designed and put for sale for y'all http://4runnergrille.com/shop/96-02-fuse-block-bracket/
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Fuse%20Block%20Bracket/untitled.17.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5139.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Fuse%20Block%20Bracket/IMG_9353.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5139.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Fuse%20Block%20Bracket/IMG_9352.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5139.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Fuse%20Block%20Bracket/IMG_1227.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5139.jpg"/>

 

[michaeljtomey]

Rock/Camping Lights
January 2016
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5467.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5467.jpg"/>

If you can't already tell, I'm an Amazon Prime freak and buy just about everything I own on there... including these great little LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVMRS6O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had no problems with them thus far!

So I cut up some little aluminum mounts for the front lights and found a nice place in the frame for the rear. Used some washers to align the lights concentrically with the frame hole. Quick and easy mod! Wired them in series right up to my fuse block.

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5129.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5129.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5133.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5133.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5137.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5137.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5135.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5135.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5138.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5138.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Rock%20Lights/IMG_5139.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_5139.jpg"/>

 

[michaeljtomey]

LED Light Bar Waterproofing
April 2016

$900/$50=18. Eighteen: the number of Amazon LED light bars I can buy for the price of one Rigid bar.

So I bought two! First one for destruction testing and a second to be done correctly the first time.

You do get what you pay for. So I HIGHLY recommend modifying them to be waterproof.

I used the first bar for a few months and, as expected, it condensated inside the glass. I opened it up and first attempted to use silicone to seal it. Let that dry for a few days and tested it under a pressure washer. Filled with water once again. So I let it once again sit out and dry and then tried a different brand of silicone and attempted to cover more area. Failed again.

My solution: HOT GLUE. I put my eff it face on and decided to heavily fill the ends of the bar with hot glue. Not to my surprise, it worked flawlessly. So I then committed and hot glued my second "new" light bar for actual use.

No issues since!


I did some research on the different light bars available on Amazon and ended up committing to the one with the most/best reviews. What I like about it is that the lights are actually a very nice 6000K color temperature. I personally hate any tints of yellow, green, or blue in my lights. These are great! You do get what you pay for. So I HIGHLY recommend modifying them to be waterproof.

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/LED%20Light%20Bar/Amaazonlightbar.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo Amaazonlightbar.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/LED%20Light%20Bar/2016-05-27_001352000_2365C_iOS.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2016-05-27_001352000_2365C_iOS.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/LED%20Light%20Bar/2016-05-27_001243000_DDBEA_iOS.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2016-05-27_001243000_DDBEA_iOS.jpg"/>

 

[michaeljtomey]

Garage Door Button Design
April 2016

Things that bother me:
1) People who live in America and don't love our country
2) Redoing things
3) Impossible streaks on the inside of my windshield
4) Loose items without a home

My garage door opener can never seem to find a home. I gave it a home.

I'm not a fan of leaving the opener on the sun visor because not only is it ugly and in your face, but it gives thieves a good excuse to break a window and steal everything in your garage.

I disassembled my LiftMaster opener and pulled the circuit board out of the housing. I took some dimensions and went to Solidworks to model the large switch blank that sits on the left side of the steering wheel. In the design, I incorporated a slot to house the circuit board and a hole to mount the momentary switch button. I have a 3D printer that is great for prototyping. Printed out the design, mounted the circuit board and button, and soldered the button to the lead terminals on the board that (when in contact) close the garage.

I used PLA filament for the print. Unfortunately, PLA does not hold its shape very well in the heat of a summer in Southern California. When I buy ABS filament, I will reprint it as a final product.

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Garage%20Door%20Button%20Design/2016-04-28_061753475_05F38_iOS.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2016-04-28_061753475_05F38_iOS.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Garage%20Door%20Button%20Design/2016-04-28_061625864_66BB2_iOS.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2016-04-28_061625864_66BB2_iOS.jpg"/>
<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Garage%20Door%20Button%20Design/2016-04-28_061607602_4434C_iOS.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo 2016-04-28_061607602_4434C_iOS.jpg"/>

 

['Merica1776]

Fantastic start so far!! Love your switch panel!

 

[Rwhockey29]

looking forward to more posts! any chance you could post some build pictures or the design of that fuse block mount you built? im wiring up a 6-terminal aux fuse block this weekend and cant figure out where to mount it. also, where did you mount your CB? cant seem to find a place for mine

 

[JBurt]

You've got to have some more updates than these. You should also see if you can get to some of the socal trips.

Nice grills btw.

 

[derpiful]

Looks sweet so far, I like where this is headed! Love the color too, your index post picture is perfect.

 

[michaeljtomey]

You've got to have some more updates than these. You should also see if you can get to some of the socal trips.

Nice grills btw.

Always working on it! I went to the April meet and run in cleghorn. Always seems to be something happening on those weekends with the family! Thanks

Looks sweet so far, I like where this is headed! Love the color too, your index post picture is perfect.

Yee! Thanks! its one of my favorites too. The color looks amazing in the picture. Caught it post carwash and pre dirt from person in front of me haha.

looking forward to more posts! any chance you could post some build pictures or the design of that fuse block mount you built? im wiring up a 6-terminal aux fuse block this weekend and cant figure out where to mount it. also, where did you mount your CB? cant seem to find a place for mine

As a matter of fact, (sorry i know this might be late) I have been busy revamping that bracket and made a solid design. Ive been working on a website that allows me to sell some of the items I design for my own rig to other folks. When I start a new project, I start by looking around to see if its for sale and how its done. If it is something I can't find, I then break out into design mode. This is the case with that bracket. If you are still looking for something, I just recently posted it to my website. MJT 4Runner Grille Fab and you can find it under the shop. The design was completed yesterday and is ready to go!

 

[gamefreakgc]

I normally don't follow build threads, but I've been wondering how to seal my cheapo China light bar (that works very well, just fills with water) and what to do about my garage door opener. Great ideas. Mounting it in my dash would be sweet, I would just need to keep it in a state that I could reassemble and put it back together if we ever needed to move it to another vehicle.

 

[michaeljtomey]

I normally don't follow build threads, but I've been wondering how to seal my cheapo China light bar (that works very well, just fills with water) and what to do about my garage door opener. Great ideas. Mounting it in my dash would be sweet, I would just need to keep it in a state that I could reassemble and put it back together if we ever needed to move it to another vehicle.

Well let me know if you need any pointers! My garage opener can be quickly put back to its original state. Simply rip off the wires and install the circuit board back into the housing. If you're looking for a more temporary solution, you may be better off with multiple openers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[amalik]

Nice build. Your thread looks exactly like COB's though, lol.

You can't tell this rig turned 20 this year.

 

[MattJakobs]

6-Switch Overhead Control Panel
July 2015


I bet I'm not the only one who struggled to find a place to mount my switches. My goal was to find a location where I could mount as many switches as possible in an easily accessible spot that I could access at night without looking around. My solution was this 6-switch overhead control panel.

I started by removing the stock dome light unit to figure out my mounting points. My design is a result of making it as small as possible while fitting the electronics easily. I used SolidWorks to design a model and went to work. I chose wood as the material because it is the easiest for me to work with using my available tools and resources.



Got it all wired up on this side! Now to the fuse block:

I used a blue sea systems 12-circuit fuse block with a negative terminal. I also added 2 more terminal blocks so I could wire my accessory straight to the block and keep under the hood organized. I fabbed a bracket from 24 gauge steel sheet and powder-coated it black. Its mounted on two bolts--one fixed, the second an open slot to allow for the whole bracket to pivot.


REDESIGN for new bracket that I designed and put for sale for y'all

Saw your group buy and it sort of put me in the market to finally clean up all my wiring for good. My question to you is what is the point of the two Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit 30A Terminal Blocks and why didn't you include a circuit breaker?

 

[michaeljtomey]

Saw your group buy and it sort of put me in the market to finally clean up all my wiring for good. My question to you is what is the point of the two Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit 30A Terminal Blocks and why didn't you include a circuit breaker?

Hi Matt, glad I could offer some inspiration to your organization! I finally went back and cleaned it all up and this time it's done right.

I'll give you the long answer for those reading who may not be as inclined with electrical. I chose not to include the circuit breaker because I found that it wasn't necessary and is slightly an overkill for a simple DC automotive electrical job. A circuit breaker is designed to protect the system from over current, overload, or a short circuit by flipping a switch and opening the circuit. Similarly, a fuse offers the same protection as a circuit breaker but destructively snaps the fuse. With a circuit breaker you flip the switch and bring it back, whereas with a fuse it must be replaced. If you draw out an electrical schematic for this setup, you'll see that every circuit is in parallel and is fused. The Blue Sea Systems fuse block houses 12 parallel circuits each with a 30A max. If any short circuits occur on any circuits off the fuse block (which is where it is most likely to happen) a fuse will blow. The circuit breaker would be placed in series with (after) the fuse block. The circuit breaker would be effectively only protecting shorts in the main (hot) line running from the battery to the fuse block (about 1.5 feet of insulated 4 gauge wire). For me, I deemed this extra protection completely unnecessary for the large price tag on the circuit breaker. I am not opposed to the circuit breaker but I found that an extra terminal block is of much greater use. Here's why,

Most of us wiring switches use the Daystar 30A switches that are available on amazon. They are the most cheap, readily available, illuminated, and they fit. These (with other SPDT switches) have 3 rear terminals. Power in, neutral, and power to accessory. This allows the switch light to work. I created a harness that runs from my switches that terminates on the fuseblock and terminal block. What this allows is for all of the terminals on the switch to have a termination location and have nothing dangling around. Power in on switch goes to the fuse block. Neutral on switch goes to negative on fuse block. Accessory power on switch goes to the terminal block.

The benefits of a terminal block is that it now allows you to wire all of your switches inside the cab and terminate all of the wires to a designated spot. I have 6 prewired switches in my cab but I only use 3. Whenever I need to add a new accessory, I simply connect the positive of the accessory to its corresponding terminal on the terminal block and its negative to the negatives. No more having to go inside the cab to run wires. Doing so virtually extends all of the terminals from the switch to a convenient location under the hood.

I opted for 12 circuits total. I put 2 terminal blocks for future expansion. Say I only use 6 fused circuits on switches and end up with an extra terminal block? I could still use it for many things. It can become a ground block. I can simply jump all of the terminals together and have one landing block for stuff. I could also jump across terminals to add multiple accessories onto one switch. The possibilities are endless.

Let me know if you have any questions!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattJakobs]

Hi Matt, glad I could offer some inspiration to your organization! I finally went back and cleaned it all up and this time it's done right.

I'll give you the long answer for those reading who may not be as inclined with electrical. I chose not to include the circuit breaker because I found that it wasn't necessary and is slightly an overkill for a simple DC automotive electrical job. A circuit breaker is designed to protect the system from over current, overload, or a short circuit by flipping a switch and opening the circuit. Similarly, a fuse offers the same protection as a circuit breaker but destructively snaps the fuse. With a circuit breaker you flip the switch and bring it back, whereas with a fuse it must be replaced. If you draw out an electrical schematic for this setup, you'll see that every circuit is in parallel and is fused. The Blue Sea Systems fuse block houses 12 parallel circuits each with a 30A max. If any short circuits occur on any circuits off the fuse block (which is where it is most likely to happen) a fuse will blow. The circuit breaker would be placed in series with (after) the fuse block. The circuit breaker would be effectively only protecting shorts in the main (hot) line running from the battery to the fuse block (about 1.5 feet of insulated 4 gauge wire). For me, I deemed this extra protection completely unnecessary for the large price tag on the circuit breaker. I am not opposed to the circuit breaker but I found that an extra terminal block is of much greater use. Here's why,

Most of us wiring switches use the Daystar 30A switches that are available on amazon. They are the most cheap, readily available, illuminated, and they fit. These (with other SPDT switches) have 3 rear terminals. Power in, neutral, and power to accessory. This allows the switch light to work. I created a harness that runs from my switches that terminates on the fuseblock and terminal block. What this allows is for all of the terminals on the switch to have a termination location and have nothing dangling around. Power in on switch goes to the fuse block. Neutral on switch goes to negative on fuse block. Accessory power on switch goes to the terminal block.

The benefits of a terminal block is that it now allows you to wire all of your switches inside the cab and terminate all of the wires to a designated spot. I have 6 prewired switches in my cab but I only use 3. Whenever I need to add a new accessory, I simply connect the positive of the accessory to its corresponding terminal on the terminal block and its negative to the negatives. No more having to go inside the cab to run wires. Doing so virtually extends all of the terminals from the switch to a convenient location under the hood.

I opted for 12 circuits total. I put 2 terminal blocks for future expansion. Say I only use 6 fused circuits on switches and end up with an extra terminal block? I could still use it for many things. It can become a ground block. I can simply jump all of the terminals together and have one landing block for stuff. I could also jump across terminals to add multiple accessories onto one switch. The possibilities are endless.

Let me know if you have any questions!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the detailed response as I fall into the category of having little electrical experience or knowledge.

I think I understand what you're saying about the fuse box. The purpose being so you can rid of in-line fuses and put all those fuses in a central location. I can clearly see how this will make things much more organized.

As for the terminal blocks you included, are they necessary per accessory? Lets say I run a set of lights through the fuse box, where does the terminal block come into play? Can I ground those lights in the terminal block? If you have a 12 circuit fuse box, it'd make sense to me that you only need 12 slots in your terminal block, not 24.

Edit: I see where your terminal blocks are 6 each, not 12 each.

Thank you,
Matt

 

[michaeljtomey]

Thank you for the detailed response as I fall into the category of having little electrical experience or knowledge.

I think I understand what you're saying about the fuse box. The purpose being so you can rid of in-line fuses and put all those fuses in a central location. I can clearly see how this will make things much more organized.

As for the terminal blocks you included, are they necessary per accessory? Lets say I run a set of lights through the fuse box, where does the terminal block come into play? Can I ground those lights in the terminal block? If you have a 12 circuit fuse box, it'd make sense to me that you only need 12 slots in your terminal block, not 24.

Edit: I see where your terminal blocks are 6 each, not 12 each.

Thank you,
Matt

I've attached a PDF of my personal configuration. You can see how I ran my setup. It is just one of infinite possibilities. In summary, the switches have 3 terminals.

Negative (neutral): permanent connection to negative terminal on FuseBlock (if you have multiple switches you can jump them all together like I did. See attached PDF.

Positive (power in): permanent connection to positive terminal on FuseBlock

Accessory Power (power out/acc): permanent connection to terminal on TerminalBlock

<img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/mikey9025/Switch/IMG_1274.jpg" border="0" style="width:640px" alt=" photo IMG_1447.jpg"/>

You can see in the drawing above the direction of current in red. The battery is hot on the positive. The fuse block connects to the battery (acts as an extension of the battery but separates the voltage into parallel circuits) and has fuses on each circuit for protection. Now the switch is connected to the fuseblock's positive and negative terminals creating a loop. When you activate the switch, you are creating another loop between the positive in the switch and the "Power Out" aka Accessory power. That is the power that turns on and off your lights. ie. when the switch is off, no power; switch on, power. You must complete the loop by then connecting the light back to a negative source. Either the battery or the negative on the fuseblock (all the same).

Each terminal block has 6 circuits. Now why I truly advocate the terminal blocks: You have the ability to prewire multiple switches and land that Accessory wire somewhere. It will sit there quietly and neatly and wait for its mate. Without the terminal block, you have a loose wire with no home. Then you have to install butt connectors for you lights and stuff. Its just not as clean