...Do you have any pics of how you wired up the unit with the wires up in the headliner. I tapped into the clock, and abs on the passenger side, I think I just didnt wite up correct on the wires I'm the headliner. Any help would be appreciated!
I didn't take any pics, but the wiring is pretty basic. Just remember that there are two distinct "areas" in the FMU. One area is the actual FMU itself which has its own molex connector, and the other "area" is the harness for the map lights (and if equipped, sunroof controls).
the molex connector that plugs into the actual FMU has nine wires:
1) White/black connects to ground (I ran mine to body)
2) Blue/yellow connects to constant 12v (mine to the original map light +)
3) White/red connects to switched 12V (mine to the switched 12v in the sunroof molex - there are a couple of switched 12v options in the overhead console area, so just do some probing and find the one that's easiest to access)
4) Green/orange connects to the speed sensor wire from the ABS module
5) Solid green connects to the solid green at the back of the digital clock
6) Solid blue connects to temperature sensor
7) Yellow/black connects to temperature sensor
8 and 9) The final two wires (I forget what colours they are) are unused.
There are a few different configurations for map light/sunroof options depending on what your 4Runner came with:
No sunroof
One-button sunroof
Two-button sunroof
You may have to experiment to get this part right. In my case I was putting a two-button sunroof FMU in a two-button sunroof vehicle It was basically plug and play except the constant 12v+ for the map lights had to be connected from the original constant 12v map light wire, which has its own molex connector. Alternately you can pop the original map light 12v out of its molex and put it in the blank space in the donor sunroof/map light molex, but I didn't have a pick for that. Plus I was getting hungry.
The only thing I did wrong was I mistakenly spliced the constant 12v+ from the original map light circuit to the new map light circuit ground (instead of 12v+), blowing the fuse. So make sure you have a couple of extra 15a fuses to replace the "dome" fuse in your fuse box. Or just pay attention, which I didn't!
Not to insult your intelligence, but there is a "lights off" switch on the FMU. When i first test-wired mine up there was no life, but it was just the switch was "off". So it could be as simple as that (or dead/missing bulbs in the FMU).
