Tie rod end - leaky boots??

[bob3dsf]

Did my oil change and tire rotation to day. Finally the rain stopped and the frigid weather.... anyhoo, did a once over of all the steering and suspension links and found what looks like the beginnings of leaky boots. Mileage is 116k, tie rod ends are original. What do you think?

So I gather that I'll probably be swapping the tie rod ends here very shortly, yes? Look the same for the LBJ?

And on LBJ's, I've seen that they can be pressed out relatively easily with the right press tool, which I've seen at ye olde Harbor Freight, and I've seen some videos on the job. Looking ahead to the UBJ's, can they be pressed out or is that job pretty much new UCA's?

Thanks for opinions and advice.... :thumb3:

Pass. side:

Driver's side:

And here is what the pass. side LBJ boot looks like, similar "goop" in the crease:

 

[NuclearN8]

yup, let rock auto be your friend...
moog k500017 lbj's $45.58
moog es80378 outer tie rods $29.56
moog ev80379 inner tie rods $38.14

while you're down there... Moog k100128 caster/camber alignment bolts 71.58


this link may help you out as well for the LBJ: Lower Ball Joint Replacement - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

almost all local auto stores (advanced, oreilly etc...) rent tools for free (e.g. you pay then get refund upon return.... )

good luck

 

[bob3dsf]

Oh yes, Rock Auto is awesome. I've seen that thread from Darklight. Matter of fact I've watched his linked videos a few times knowing that the LBJ job was coming sooner or later. And yea, I've made good use of the tool rental policies at the local parts stores....

SO NuclearN8, the caster/camber bolts, would there be a particular reason to replace those? Just curious about that recommendation (not that it might not be needed, etc...). I saw a video on YT showing tie rod replacement and the replacement had a zerk fitting on the outer end. I think I'll likely go that route.

~Bob

 

[Jhamblett]

Amazon has been beating rock auto prices consistently as long as you have prime. The search engine is a little finicky, select automotive and type in tie rod end, insert vehicle stats and press find.

 

[NuclearN8]

Oh yes, Rock Auto is awesome. I've seen that thread from Darklight. Matter of fact I've watched his linked videos a few times knowing that the LBJ job was coming sooner or later. And yea, I've made good use of the tool rental policies at the local parts stores....

SO NuclearN8, the caster/camber bolts, would there be a particular reason to replace those? Just curious about that recommendation (not that it might not be needed, etc...). I saw a video on YT showing tie rod replacement and the replacement had a zerk fitting on the outer end. I think I'll likely go that route.

~Bob

the moog cast camber kit is greasable to prevent seizure (common in northern climates which you're not in), but a viable replacement if you go to get an alignment and you're told your bolts are seized in the future.

 

[chmura]

Me personally I would not go aftermarket on this.

You can get 2 OEM outer tie rods for $82 at the dealer.

 

[Jeremy556]

Me personally I would not go aftermarket on this.

You can get 2 OEM outer tie rods for $82 at the dealer.

This.

You can also pickup a new boot and grease for the lower ball joint for about $30.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

That doesn't look too bad at all, won't hurt anything to go ahead change them out if you want. But to be honest that looks like normal seepage/grease being pushed out. Now if there was about 3x more grease and cracked/deflated looking boots I'd be worried; hell most of that grease still has that nice greenish-grey gloop color.

 

[bob3dsf]

That doesn't look too bad at all, won't hurt anything to go ahead change them out if you want. But to be honest that looks like normal seepage/grease being pushed out. Now if there was about 3x more grease and cracked/deflated looking boots I'd be worried; hell most of that grease still has that nice greenish-grey gloop color.

You know, I wondered about if there was an acceptable amount of seepage. I can't move them by hand, but I don't know the best way to tell if they have too much play. Well, I've read in the FSM about removing the outer ends and rotating them 5 times and measuring the torque angle, or something like that... but if I'm going to remove them I'd replace them. If the boots aren't cracked, can they be refilled/topped up with grease? Is it even worth doing that? Oh and the boots feel plenty squishy which I took to indicate they still had the majority of their grease still living happily inside...

For now I guess I'll just keep an eye on them and see how it progresses.

Was that $82 for BOTH OEM outer TR ends? I do like the idea of having grease fittings, but it occurred to me.... would any seepage, and thus a need to use a zerk fitting, happen with enough frequency to be an issue before the boot dried and cracked and allowed all the grease to leak out anyway (in which case the zerk fitting is then a non-issue).