Tigger's Build and Mis-Adventures
- Thread starter tigger
- Start date
So I thought I would show some of the process of cutting, weeding, masking and installing graphics.
I was initially thinking of doing 4Runner under the wrap then thinking about something a little larger. Then I learned about the history of the Toyota logo. Didn't really like the very first one, but found the second one pretty cool. It isn't a fully accurate logo since the initial company name was Toyoda and not Toyota. The change was made to reduce the number of strokes in the logo from 10 to 8 (which is considered a good number in the Japanese culture) Toyota Logo History
We found a scrap piece of vinyl that had been laminated and was about the right size, so did a quick layout and cut and install on the hood to see how it looked. Then we wrapped over it so it looks as if the hood-wrap is embossed.
I was initially thinking of doing 4Runner under the wrap then thinking about something a little larger. Then I learned about the history of the Toyota logo. Didn't really like the very first one, but found the second one pretty cool. It isn't a fully accurate logo since the initial company name was Toyoda and not Toyota. The change was made to reduce the number of strokes in the logo from 10 to 8 (which is considered a good number in the Japanese culture) Toyota Logo History
We found a scrap piece of vinyl that had been laminated and was about the right size, so did a quick layout and cut and install on the hood to see how it looked. Then we wrapped over it so it looks as if the hood-wrap is embossed.
The first machine is a cutter. This machine will take a piece of vinyl and cut out any pattern you want. The second one is a printer cutter. It will print any design you want on up to 53 inch by 60 feet, then cut it if it's a cut pattern. This is the type a machine that full vehicle wraps are printed on.
The next pics are what's called weeding. This is the process of removing the unneeded vinyl so the desired pattern is left.
In an effort to save some vinyl we split the pattern at the door seam. This requires very accurate measurements.
Then we move on to masking the pattern. This allows you to remove intricate patterns from the backing paper so it can be transferred to the surface.
You then line up the pattern, remove the backing paper and squeegee the pattern to the surface. (there is a detailed method to this procedure.Let me know if you want more details on it)
Then you remove the mask and your graphic in now finished.
The next pics are what's called weeding. This is the process of removing the unneeded vinyl so the desired pattern is left.
In an effort to save some vinyl we split the pattern at the door seam. This requires very accurate measurements.
Then we move on to masking the pattern. This allows you to remove intricate patterns from the backing paper so it can be transferred to the surface.
You then line up the pattern, remove the backing paper and squeegee the pattern to the surface. (there is a detailed method to this procedure.Let me know if you want more details on it)
Then you remove the mask and your graphic in now finished.
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Here we have the finished layout. I like the design. I will probably remove the rear and move it higher. The curve on the back is strong enough to reflect the black on the bumper and it blends into the design. I need to move it higher to create a separation between the reflection and graphic.
On the trip to Big Bear, I got tangled up in some rocks. The skid plates did not fare so well. The aluminum is not a good choice at all if you are thinking about doing any type of rock crawling. They cannot handle the weight of the 4runner. They are just not designed in a way to stand up to hits. They are too flat and have little structural support designed into them. Not trying to bash on RCI, as I know there are space limitations and such. Just can't recommend these for much more than deflecting things from damaging components. With that said, they did do their job and prevented any damage to vital parts underneath, so in that sense, they worked very well.
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I picked up a set of HID retrofits from Jesse1983. His build of the lights can be found here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/60125-jesse1983-post1028711.html
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Con10der_8
New member
Nice rig man! Very intricate work on the interior and i like it.. Also digging the 4runner graphics on the sides
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Why are you always runnin' into asses?
Sorry, I just hadta!!!! Carry on!!!!:bounce:
Sorry, I just hadta!!!! Carry on!!!!:bounce:
Thanks. Really appreciate it.
They just always seem to float into my life :fish:
A few weeks ago I got in on the Bussman rtmr fuse block group buy. Engine bay wiring was going to be a mess so needed a way to clean it up.
This was the route I started with. There would have been several relays attached here and not very organized. (parts are loose as I did a quick reassemble for pics)
Here are a few pics of the fuse block. Tacoma Pros did a great on these.
Here is where I chose to mount it. The aluminum bracket is blank on the back so you can drill the mounting holes wherever you need them.
The cap they included didn't cover the positive side very well, so I found an old one I had from an inverter. I sliced the side so I could slip the positive cable through it and then pull it over the post when finished. It seems to work well and should help prevent shorts. I moved the cap they provided to the ground post.
I used some water tight connectors and heat shrink. Not top of the line but should work fine for this application.
So here it is all closed up and mounted. Power was ran to the breaker for the stereo, and ground to the body ground to the right of the battery. (the extra looped wire is for the rock lights)
I went ahead and wired up the switches for the compressor and rock lights. I have the compressor, but haven't mounted it yet and need to redo the rock lights as the ones I used (very old LEDs) had very little light output. I will just need to complete the wiring under the hood and add fuses to the appropriate spot.
As you can see, the amber lights don't match the stock orange.
Over all I am very pleased with it. It is now just a simple 2 wire connection for each addition. Much simpler and cleaner.
This was the route I started with. There would have been several relays attached here and not very organized. (parts are loose as I did a quick reassemble for pics)
Here are a few pics of the fuse block. Tacoma Pros did a great on these.
Here is where I chose to mount it. The aluminum bracket is blank on the back so you can drill the mounting holes wherever you need them.
The cap they included didn't cover the positive side very well, so I found an old one I had from an inverter. I sliced the side so I could slip the positive cable through it and then pull it over the post when finished. It seems to work well and should help prevent shorts. I moved the cap they provided to the ground post.
I used some water tight connectors and heat shrink. Not top of the line but should work fine for this application.
So here it is all closed up and mounted. Power was ran to the breaker for the stereo, and ground to the body ground to the right of the battery. (the extra looped wire is for the rock lights)
I went ahead and wired up the switches for the compressor and rock lights. I have the compressor, but haven't mounted it yet and need to redo the rock lights as the ones I used (very old LEDs) had very little light output. I will just need to complete the wiring under the hood and add fuses to the appropriate spot.
As you can see, the amber lights don't match the stock orange.
Over all I am very pleased with it. It is now just a simple 2 wire connection for each addition. Much simpler and cleaner.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Any way to get to the led lamp inside the switches? I can send you orange printed on clear vinyl to "tint" the light. Maybe something close to tomato red like the old Oracal stuff I have? It'll need to be printed on clear or you won't have nearly enough light coming through.
You can call me tomorrow, I'll be working in the shop most of the day.
You can call me tomorrow, I'll be working in the shop most of the day.
There is a thread on how to swap out the LEDs and which ones to get. I have it bookmarked and will get around to it some day....
Or maybe make you do it next time I am up that way :hello:
Thank you. I appreciate it. It has been a fun, if not frustrating build :tea:
Magnetic4R
New member
Sucks on the skids, I know it's aluminum but didn't expect it to bend like that.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Don't be fooled by Brian! He enjoyed every second of that run!!!
Including the carnage!!! You should see what he used to do with his Rubicon!
BWAAAAHAHAHAHHAAAAAA!!!!
Now, get that skid outta there and have someone reinforce it. Gonna be expensive though, aluminum is not cheap! And figure out which rear bumper you're gonna go with next, that plastic is not pretty now that its all tweaked!
:fish:
Including the carnage!!! You should see what he used to do with his Rubicon!
BWAAAAHAHAHAHHAAAAAA!!!!
Now, get that skid outta there and have someone reinforce it. Gonna be expensive though, aluminum is not cheap! And figure out which rear bumper you're gonna go with next, that plastic is not pretty now that its all tweaked!
:fish:
