Time to replace the JBL system

M1911

New member
Now that Toyota has replaced the frame on my '03, I guess I'm going to keep it a while. That means the JBL audio has to go.

I want a new head unit and speakers. It is my understanding that this means the amp and subwoofer need to go as well. I'm looking at the Alpine ILX-007 (yes, I'm an Apple iPhone guy). I spoke with one shop yesterday, but their quotes were high and they wanted to put a subwoofer in the cargo area in a removable box -- nope, that's not what I want.

I've seen some folks use a shallow mount JL Audio subwoofer in the stock location, that's along the lines of what I want.

The shop was recommending installing 4 Focal 165ISC 6.5" coaxial speakers. Any comments on those?

That shop's prices seemed very high. Just to install the ILX-007 plus JBL interface (i.e., leaving JBL amp in place, not replacing any speakers) was a total of $1300 ($600 for the ILX).

Any other suggestions?
 
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I personally am looking to replace the JBL system too since my amp has gone bad. Toyota wants ~600 to replace. I suggest you check out PC Richard because they currently have free HU (thanks for the heads up [MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION]) install along with free install on first set of speakers. They are authorized dealers for Alpine so you can order through them if they don't have what you are looking for.

I am personally going to go with compound speakers to use the original tweeter locations and feel the same way you do about the boxed sub. I like my cargo space and am looking at shallow subs to put in the stock location.
 
The Focal speakers will rock your socks off, they are kind of $$$$ though. I like the sound they put out.
 
i would recommend you replace everything yourself as its not too hard to do and there are a ton of threads dedicated to the replacement.

I'm actually in the middle of the project myself. Have the entire interior apart, dynamat down, working on installing the Kenwood subwoofer now (have to make a trim ring in order to reuse the existing threaded screw holes in the existing subwoofer enclosure.

I'm actually going to run all new wire, install new speakers, new head unit, and a 5 channel amp. I'm bypassing any original wiring as I didn't want to deal with using adapters or hacking up original wiring harnesses.

Couple of things to consider. The rear door speakers dont put a ton of sound into the system. Your better off putting in the components in the front and just sticking regular 3 way in the rear doors. Sound dampening the doors will make a huge improvement as will sound dampening the rear subwoofer area and installing a little polyfill in the enclosure. The kenwood KFX 8" subwoofer fits perfectly, is a great sub, and puts out great sound. 2 methods of installing the sub. The existing screw holes dont line up with the new sub holes. You can just screw in the new sub through the thin 1/8" thick plastic but I do not think this is the best way. Better way to install would be to add a 1/2" or 3/4" MDF trim ring that you can screw into the existing threaded holes. Then install the sub and screw it through the MDF and the plastic trim ring. This will be much more secure and prevent any vibration issues.
 
No way I will touch it myself. I don't have the time, I don't have a garage (it is about 30 degrees outside) and I don't have the skill.
 
Now that Toyota has replaced the frame on my '03, I guess I'm going to keep it a while. That means the JBL audio has to go.

I want a new head unit and speakers. It is my understanding that this means the amp and subwoofer need to go as well. I'm looking at the Alpine ILX-007 (yes, I'm an Apple iPhone guy). I spoke with one shop yesterday, but their quotes were high and they wanted to put a subwoofer in the cargo area in a removable box -- nope, that's not what I want.

I've seen some folks use a shallow mount JL Audio subwoofer in the stock location, that's along the lines of what I want.

The shop was recommending installing 4 Focal 165ISC 6.5" coaxial speakers. Any comments on those?

That shop's prices seemed very high. Just to install the ILX-007 plus JBL interface (i.e., leaving JBL amp in place, not replacing any speakers) was a total of $1300 ($600 for the ILX).

Any other suggestions?

You know, [MENTION=87687]LTDSC[/MENTION] replaced his HU/Speakers and replaced his oem Sub with an aftermarket one, within the same space .. I also believe he documented (With pictures) IIRC.. I'll see if I can find his thread..


Edit:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/129842-ltdsc-build-thread-24.html Starts out with post #348
 
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No way I will touch it myself. I don't have the time, I don't have a garage (it is about 30 degrees outside) and I don't have the skill.

This is my issue. I've never done anything electrical, am worried ill mess it up and its starting to get ****ing cold out! I'm currently looking at a kenwood HU with gps, kicker speakers & kicker sub along with a 5 channel alpine amp. Definitely going with new wiring all around.

If anyone with some expertise is in the NY/NJ area who would help i'd be down to pay them instead and work on it together so i can feel more comfortable when I do this again myself with another car.
 
I'm guessing replacing the entire system will eliminate the problem with the volume not adjusting some times

One easy way to fix that is to turn the key while the truck's already running. It resets the radio and the volume starts working again. Much cheaper than a new system.


[MENTION=6872]M1911[/MENTION] that does seem kinda steep for nothing but the headunit and interface. Shop around for a better deal and have the store do the hard part and save the speakers for better weather and do those yourself. It's really easy.
 
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This is my issue. I've never done anything electrical, am worried ill mess it up and its starting to get ****ing cold out! I'm currently looking at a kenwood HU with gps, kicker speakers & kicker sub along with a 5 channel alpine amp. Definitely going with new wiring all around.

If anyone with some expertise is in the NY/NJ area who would help i'd be down to pay them instead and work on it together so i can feel more comfortable when I do this again myself with another car.

About 13 years ago I installed the in-dash CD changer in my 2000 GTI GLX. It was the factory unit, so simply plug and play. And I remember it as being a royal pain in my backside. So that is testimony to my lack of skill.
 
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i would recommend you replace everything yourself as its not too hard to do and there are a ton of threads dedicated to the replacement.

I'm actually in the middle of the project myself. Have the entire interior apart, dynamat down, working on installing the Kenwood subwoofer now (have to make a trim ring in order to reuse the existing threaded screw holes in the existing subwoofer enclosure.

I'm actually going to run all new wire, install new speakers, new head unit, and a 5 channel amp. I'm bypassing any original wiring as I didn't want to deal with using adapters or hacking up original wiring harnesses.

Couple of things to consider. The rear door speakers dont put a ton of sound into the system. Your better off putting in the components in the front and just sticking regular 3 way in the rear doors. Sound dampening the doors will make a huge improvement as will sound dampening the rear subwoofer area and installing a little polyfill in the enclosure. The kenwood KFX 8" subwoofer fits perfectly, is a great sub, and puts out great sound. 2 methods of installing the sub. The existing screw holes dont line up with the new sub holes. You can just screw in the new sub through the thin 1/8" thick plastic but I do not think this is the best way. Better way to install would be to add a 1/2" or 3/4" MDF trim ring that you can screw into the existing threaded holes. Then install the sub and screw it through the MDF and the plastic trim ring. This will be much more secure and prevent any vibration issues.

Would any bypassing be involved if you just remove the entire factory JBL system and using all new wiring? Sorry for the stupid question, but as I've already mentioned I don't know jack about what is really involved in a project like this. :shrug:
 
So I'm definitely a novice this sort of thing as well and have never installed a car stereo or speakers before. It really becomes easier to tackle if you start in stages.

First thing to decide is whether or not you want to bypass the factory system. I read a ton of info and thought I would be able to reuse the factory stuff but I never found someone who had great experience with the adapters and the factory amp. This necessity caused me to go for an entire overhaul.

First step is figuring out the rear amp and subwoofer setup. I wanted to keep the stock enclosure and just run an 8" sub. I found the Kenwood KFC- XW800 excelon was a great choice, tons of good reviews, and fit in the stock location without even having to dremel away interior material for depth. it literally drops right in.

Next was the amp. The best choice I feel is the excelon XR900-5 b/c it literally fits in the stock amp location with minor trimming. It was just too expensive. I chose a different 5 channel amp that I'm mounting on the rear passenger seat back.

As for whats involved.

Sound deadening is paramount IMO b/c it really helps with sound. Tons of products to use I just chose Dynamat Extreme b/c I was most comfortable with it. I chose to remove the rear seat backs, rear side panels, carpet to get to the bare metal on both sides and up to the second row seats. This is not that difficult or scary. Just take your time, read the threads on this forum and it'll be pretty easy. Be careful with the doors. Dont block the drain holes at the bottom and start from the bottom and work your way up. Overlap with a shingle effect for proper water runoff

Second is running the wiring for the sub, amp, and speakers. This is the most involved aspect of the project IMO. Start with the Sub. You can reuse the existing grommet for the factory wires and run your new wiring through that. Quick note, push the grommet into the subwoofer enclosure instead of trying to pull out. Its much larger on the inside than the outside. The speaker wiring I haven't done yet but its basically removing the door panels and running the new wire. While the door panels are removed you can install your new speakers, sound dampen the door skins while your at it. The benefit of running all new wire is that you do not need to touch the existing. Just remove the speaker, leave all the wiring in place and run the new wire through the door loom to your new speaker. Take your time and use a wire coat hanger. start at your speaker which will furthest from your amp and work back to the speaker that is closest.

Decide on where you want to place your amp and run all the speaker wiring to there. Run your amp power wire down the passenger side wiring chase located under the door sills. You can also run it down the drivers side door but punching through the rubber grommet is more difficult on the drivers side than the passenger side. The rubber grommet is really a work of art. Snip the small nipple portion of it off. Then insert a screwdriver and pry back at an angle. It will take some time but you'll get the inside part out (hard to explain but I'll upload pictures later). The outside grommet opening necks down inside the grommet so you need to snip the entire inside portion if you are going to use 4 gauge or larger wire. Think of it like a collapsible bowl (frontrunner flatpack kitchenware set) that you need to make inside out.

After the wiring for the speakers to the amp is in place your pretty much set. Get yourself a metra ASWC-1 to keep the factory steering wheel controls, pick out your headunit, and connect it to the vehicle. I am still researching the best plug and play solution for this. Taco Tunes makes plug and play harnesses for the tacoma so I'm waiting to hear from them if they offer one that will work with the 4runner.

Most important is to take your time and start 1 section at a time. It'll mean your car is down for a bit longer but you can feasible get the interior apart, sound dampening down, sub installed in 1 day. Then second day is amp placement, amp power and rear speakers and sub wired and installed. 3rd day would be front speakers and wiring to the amp, 5th day would be head unit and RCA cables to the Amp.

Parts You will need

1. 4 gauge amp install kit (I went with Knukoncepts for all my wiring). The knukoncepts one comes with 1 set of RCA with a remote turn on lead. I'm using this for the sub channel. It also comes with 20' of speaker wire.

2. 50 feet of speaker wire
3. Channel A & B RCA cables (again i used KnuKonceptz)
4. Metra ASWC-1 if you want stock volumn and channel change
5. Back up Camera (great time to install since everything is apart
6. Sound Dampening (Dynamat Bulk Pack worked great and was enough for my entire car. I did the rear hatch, rear floor, subwoofer enclosure, rear sides and all 4 doors)
7. Amp
8. Sub
9. Speakers
10. Head Unit
 

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Guys, once again, I am not doing this myself.

OK?

I appreciate that you guys have the time, skill, and a garage to do this. I don't. I spend ~2+ hours each day commuting. I can't fit my 4Runner in my garage. It is 30 degrees outside during the day. And I don't have the skill.

I respect you guys that can do this yourself. I can't.
 
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Understood, just trying to help another member. I'll start a different thread about the sound system replacement.

Hey man really appreciate the details you've dropped here. Main reason i didn't want to do this myself was because I have no expertise. I'm big on DIY and after speaking to Best Buy, PC Richard and some local audio shops, I am very unsatisfied with what they tell me. It seems like they are not very informed and when I ask them thorough questions they give me a deer in the headlights look each time.

I noticed you're in NY (I'm in JC), and the more I browse audio forums, install instructions and crutchfield, the more and more I feel like tackling this myself. I was wondering if I get stumped along the way, could I meet you for some help? I may just order everything tomorrow and get this project started soon too.
 
Op

This is what I suggest as I just literally did my install this weekend.

This is probably the best and cheapest for you. Go research and purchase all the equipment you want yourself. Then ask around and see which shop is cheapest just for labor. Make sure its a reputable shop and they do good work.

It took me and my brother 12+hrs from start to finish but thats from of a lot of beer breaks and visits from the zigzag man. This is including the big 3 upgrade and cutting out speakers mounts. Do note that this is for a non jbl and only for headunit, amps, front components, and subwoofer.

As far as speakers go you can buy the best but they will still sound like ass if you don't install them right, treat/deaden the doors, and tune. You don't have to treat the whole car but you do need to treat the doors for best sound. heres a vid a of what i'm talking about. You dont have to go to the extent that this guy does.

Also to save you some more money you can forget about the rear speakers if people are rarely back there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3EXuHlBy4M

Just to let you know I spent close to $1200 and $200 was just for install accessories. I.E wires, mdf, harnesses etc..
 
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