Timing Belt Job from Dealer...Sounds too good

4'running'26

New member
I just called the local dealership here in Akron, OH (Summit Toyota) to get a quote on the replacement of the timing belt and water pump. I was expecting something exorbitant, but I figured I better check.

Anyways, they quoted me the following:

$379 -- timing belt AND associated labor
$185 -- water pump (no additional labor costs)
$564

I was expecting something closer to $800 for parts and labor.

It came straight from the horses mouth, but it seems almost too good to be true so I figured I would check to see if anyone else had similar quotes anywhere. It just seems to fly in the face of what I know about dealerships!

JT
 
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That seems like a great deal! What are you waiting for? haha.

My dealer wants a bit under $700 last time I checked. Your dealer might be hurting for business.
They may also get the motor completely apart and say that the bearings are additional. Ask them if it's a full timing belt kit and not just the belt.
 
It is a good deal but, you got to replace two cam and crank seals, thermostat, idler bearing... tensioner bearing etc.,
 
Yeah, just called and only the belt and pump are included in the price I listed above.

The guy acted like the seals and bearings weren't something they felt needed done in most cases when doing these jobs, but do you guys disagree?

I know on most DIY jobs most people do these (might as well if you are in there, right?) but I figured Toyota would be selling it to me hard if they thought they could convince me of replacing everything else.

So, what do you think? Is it enough to just do the belt and pump unless they get in there and something else looks bad?
 
unless they are leaking, I wont mess with the seals.

but, I think the tensioner, and idlers should be changed while you're in there.
 
We only include the tensioner pulley and possibly the water pump in our TB recommendations, unless other problems exist.
 
Like I said out the door for TB, WP, Tensioner, Drive belts, Idler pulley, thermostat, fluids, labor was around 650. I have the seals but they didn't need replacing, so I'm saving them for when they do.

Sounds like a decent deal up there at Summit Yota.
 
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Thanks for the input guys! I might check on the idler and a few other things.

Sounds like a road trip for my next TB change.

You have a place to stay when you come this way!

I used to live in Woodland Park (a tad NW of Co. Springs) and will be out that way again this summer. Miss the mountains every day.
 
I'm right down the road from you In canton. Cain toyota charges the same and their mechanic IMHO are a lot better and their facility is brand new. Never had a bit of problem at cain. However I can't say the same for summit toyota.
 
My dealership is nuts
They printed this out and i did not read it until i got home
Going back another time to see if they will drop one of the labor fees
4urequqy.jpg
 
my system gives 4 hours to change the water pump. or 3.5 for just the belt.

so just under $300 for the labor.
 
Dam why am i so unlucky
Just got a price from a nj dealership of $1310 for pump belt tension-er, seals and a new drive belt they say 7 hours labor
Plus parts and will give me 10% off for a total of around $1200
zy4adepu.jpg
 
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My local dealer quoted me 585 total to do the WP and Belt.

They told me that if I supplied the parts, labor would be about 350. Either way, I'm looking at 600ish for the dealer to do the job. There's no way I'd pay 1200 for the job...
 
WTF, 7 hours of labor?!? Does that include their lunch, smoke, and bathroom breaks as well as a nap time? That's ridiculous.
 
You guys comparing prices in different ares have to keep one thing in mind; Competition. Your region may have more or less competing dealerships and or service shops, this will greatly affect the hourly labor rate you are quoted.

Our dealership is 100 USD per hour, which is in line with every dealership in the area. However, to compete with independent shops and chain shops, we menu price our T-belt/WP jobs. T-Belt/WP on a V-6 here is 659.change. We also don't touch seal unless they are leaking.

If we do a seal, it's an industry standard 0.3 hours of labor each and parts on top of the 659. The reason for leaving the seals alone unless they are leaking is; there is a sizable chance that the new seal could leak when the old one didn't. The seals wear down the crank and cam surfaces and can actually cause the new seal to not seat correctly on the sealing face of the cam or crank. If they are leaking already, it's a chance worth taking, if not, they generally hold up very well.
 

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