Timing Belt Replacement - TDC Verification

On the subject of WPs...

I was losing a lot of water from my water pump weep hole (I believe). Out of desperation and being 5 hours from home I used a cooling system “magic” stop leak. My idea was that I would fix it properly when I got back home. Well, the magic held up for a few months before I was forced to really fix my problem the correct way. Can I reverse the damage done from the “magic”? I plan to flush the system again.
 
I am one tooth off when I put my TB on per the line on the belt. The passenger side cam jumped so I had to realign it. I assume these marks on the TB are important?
 
Assuming TB means timing belt.

Yes they are important. That's why they are there and you need to have them all aligned or your valve timing will be off, just for starters.
 
csp said:
Assuming TB means timing belt.

Yes they are important. That's why they are there and you need to have them all aligned or your valve timing will be off, just for starters.
Click to expand...

Yes, TB (Timing Belt). I will have to figure out to make that work out in the morning. I just can’t seem to get all three TDC marks plus the marks on the belt itself to all be aligned.
 
Use something to clip the belt to both cams when they're lined up. Use some chip clips or something. Then you can use a wrench to shift the cams one way or the other however you need to to get them to a place where they won't try to jump and get the slack in the belt where you need it to get the mark aligned on the crank last.

Your belt might have some arrows on it somewhere in addition to those marks. If it does, make sure the arrows are pointing toward the front of the truck.

Once you get all three positioned, turn the cams inward toward one another to pull any slack from below out to keep it locked in place on the crank. While the slack is drooping at the top, you can put the top idler bearing back in. The final thing will be turning the left cam counter clockwise so that all of the slack is between the passenger side cam and the crank shaft so you can then pull the pin in the tensioner and it'll remove that slack. Before you put the covers back on, triple check that all of the marks are still lined up.
 
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sterbenlicht said:
Use something to clip the belt to both cams when they're lined up. Use some chip clips or something. Then you can use a wrench to shift the cams one way or the other however you need to to get them to a place where they won't try to jump and get the slack in the belt where you need it to get the mark aligned on the crank last.

Your belt might have some arrows on it somewhere in addition to those marks. If it does, make sure the arrows are pointing toward the front of the truck.

Once you get all three positioned, turn the cams inward toward one another to pull any slack from below out to keep it locked in place on the crank. While the slack is drooping at the top, you can put the top idler bearing back in. The final thing will be turning the left cam counter clockwise so that all of the slack is between the passenger side cam and the crank shaft so you can then pull the pin in the tensioner and it'll remove that slack. Before you put the covers back on, triple check that all of the marks are still lined up.
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Copy. I have some big clips that I can use to get the lines "lined" up. I will take some pictures this morning.
 
johnsIslander said:
Copy. I have some big clips that I can use to get the lines "lined" up. I will take some pictures this morning.
Click to expand...

Here is how I did it. Standard little black binding clips:

IMG_1451.JPG
 
Thanks to Everyone for all the help and advice.

I did use the paper clip method, thanks. I never got the lines on the TB to every line back up after turning the crank 720 degrees. I assume that is normal?

Success, I think. It cranks, idles normal, and drives.

What should I do next? What is the highest priority.

1) Real Seals
2) AT fluid and filter. It is black. I checked with a cold engine on dipstick it is past the hot mark.
3) Valve Cover Gasket..
 
I'd start with 2; there really isn't a traditional paper filter for the tranny. I'd just leave it alone, drain the ATF, and fill it to the correct level. I have had good luck with Castrol IMV fluid.

Then 3, then 1.

If no CEL, then you should be OK. Drive on.
 
johnsIslander said:
Thanks to Everyone for all the help and advice.

I did use the paper clip method, thanks. I never got the lines on the TB to every line back up after turning the crank 720 degrees. I assume that is normal?

Success, I think. It cranks, idles normal, and drives.

What should I do next? What is the highest priority.

1) Real Seals
2) AT fluid and filter. It is black. I checked with a cold engine on dipstick it is past the hot mark.
3) Valve Cover Gasket..
Click to expand...

They won't line up again. After you rotate the crank, you have to go by the timing marks only. The belt marks are for installation only. They won't line up again.
 
LittleCaesar said:
I'd start with 2; there really isn't a traditional paper filter for the tranny. I'd just leave it alone, drain the ATF, and fill it to the correct level. I have had good luck with Castrol IMV fluid.

Then 3, then 1.

If no CEL, then you should be OK. Drive on.
Click to expand...

Copy, I have the filter but don't want to break into that tranny pan. I see lots of RTV or whatever. I will drain it this week and refill.

Thanks, I just got off Dixie Plantation Road. I was trying to explain to my boys the joys of dirt roads.
 
johnsIslander said:
Thanks to Everyone for all the help and advice.

I did use the paper clip method, thanks. I never got the lines on the TB to every line back up after turning the crank 720 degrees. I assume that is normal?

Success, I think. It cranks, idles normal, and drives.

What should I do next? What is the highest priority.

1) Real Seals
2) AT fluid and filter. It is black. I checked with a cold engine on dipstick it is past the hot mark.
3) Valve Cover Gasket..
Click to expand...

Absolutely normal. They will line up eventually, but it's a Jupiter align with Mars when the Moon is in the Seventh House kind of thing. Don't expect to live long enough to see it.
 
TheDurk said:
Absolutely normal. They will line up eventually, but it's a Jupiter align with Mars when the Moon is in the Seventh House kind of thing. Don't expect to live long enough to see it.
Click to expand...

I think I can do the next one in half the time. I'm at 220k miles so hopefully I will see another one all aligned.
 
jreask said:
They won't line up again. After you rotate the crank, you have to go by the timing marks only. The belt marks are for installation only. They won't line up again.
Click to expand...

for what its worth, I have NEVER used the marks on the belt. IMO, they are for reference only. the cam, and crank marks ON the engine are the ones that truly matter.
 
nevada said:
for what its worth, I have NEVER used the marks on the belt. IMO, they are for reference only. the cam, and crank marks ON the engine are the ones that truly matter.
Click to expand...

You're right, but there is no reason not to use the belt marks to put the belt on. It does make it easier. Then confirm the metal marks. And don't call it good until you have rotated the crank twice and then re-checked the metal marks. At that point the belt marks are irrelevant and out-of-line anyway. The metal marks should be perfect. THEN it's good.

I don't know what you mean by reference.
 
nevada said:
for what its worth, I have NEVER used the marks on the belt. IMO, they are for reference only. the cam, and crank marks ON the engine are the ones that truly matter.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it did give me a little extra confidence that I did have them aligned. I was still nervous when I cranked it up.
 
TheDurk said:
You're right, but there is no reason not to use the belt marks to put the belt on. It does make it easier. Then confirm the metal marks. And don't call it good until you have rotated the crank twice and then re-checked the metal marks. At that point the belt marks are irrelevant and out-of-line anyway. The metal marks should be perfect. THEN it's good.

I don't know what you mean by reference.
Click to expand...
well, half the belts I install don't have ANY marks, so I typically don't even look for them.

I don't think they are as precise as the block marks, thus they are for reference, to get you close. in fact, when I did the belt on my 4runner last year, I didn't pay attention, or even notice the belt marks until after I was done. the belt is on backwards, and the marks weren't anywhere close to where they were supposed to be. it didn't affect the TB job in the slightest.

also yes, ALWAY turn the engine over by hand, 2x and make sure the timing marks line up.

by hand, just in case it is wrong, you wont do major internal damage.
 
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