Timing belt tool

fightman80

New member
Hey folks,

A friend of mine volunteered to help me with my t-Belt change on my 3.4l, and it seems as though I missed the part in the writeup that indicates that a special tool is needed to take the tension off the lower idler pully and re-install the t-belt. My question is.....do I really need this tool....or is there some other method to get it done without???

My truck is sitting in the shop until this is resolved....so if you guys know of a method....can you let me know??


Fightman.
 
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It's easy. I didn't have a vise so I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack and my 4runner frame to compress the hydraulic tensioner. Once it was compressed enough I put a pin inside the hole to hold it.
 
Ive hear of guys bolting it on really slow, and just letting the bolts and pulley compress the tensioner. I have also seen pictures of guys who did it too fast and cracked the pulley hardware. I imagine it would be pretty tedious twisting that thing back on.
 
I'll take slowly compressing the pulley with the tool over removing and compressing with vise. Shouldn't force it with either method anyway. I have done it both ways and even with girl hands found the latter method a tight fit. Definitely doable, though. It's a 3mm-ish allen or pin iirc.

For next time....I did not buy the Snap-on version, instead bought a Schley 97300. Then again, I've done the 96's belt twice and anticipate more timing belt changes on both it and the 99.
 
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So a good Neighbour came by looked at my truck....and decided to help me make a tool to compress that pulley!

DSCF5658.jpg~original


DSCF5659.jpg~original


We kinda tested it out...but will know for sure by tomorrow if it does the job!
 
I guess you're able to use the screw without the pulley brace thingies moving?
If so, I like it! Nobody's kidding about compressing it s l o w l y, better to be patient than to break the hydraulic tensioner.
 
Exactly. On the one side...the brace is welded to the threaded rod. The nuts are what push the device open, and the nut on the other side is drilled out...so the other end of the threaded rod just spins freely. We managed to push the pulley down, and got the pin in....so I'll be trying to get it in today. My buddy doesn't have a car today....so I might have to go pick him up and then drive him back.......which is an 80 minute round trip.....
 
Exactly. On the one side...the brace is welded to the threaded rod. The nuts are what push the device open, and the nut on the other side is drilled out...so the other end of the threaded rod just spins freely. We managed to push the pulley down, and got the pin in....so I'll be trying to get it in today. My buddy doesn't have a car today....so I might have to go pick him up and then drive him back.......which is an 80 minute round trip.....

I just put a timing belt/waterpump on 3 days ago.
I turned the engine by hand 2 revolutions(plugs out), only to find the crank one tooth off.
So I had to take the tensioner off and I didn't have the tool.
I started the threads in the tensioner with the allen bolt out of the pulley. I then bolted the pulley back on and slowly tightend both tensioner bolts, evenly side to side. It worked fine and the 4runner runs great!
When timing the engine set both cam gear marks at 12 o'clock, then set the crank gear 1 tooth counterclockwise from lining up with the timing mark.
This way when you rotate the engine 2 full turns the crank will line up then.
It's the slack in the belt on the driver's side when you first put the belt on that causes it to be out of timing if you set the crank at 12 o'clock first too.
I hope this helps.
 

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