Timing belt?

cashflow50

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Did anyone of my forum TR4 peers did a timing belt alone? My buddies seem to be always busy. Is it doable? There are no stickers or indication that the previous owner did the belt job done. I’ve asked him numerous times and he has no clue. Omg


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I vé done the timing belt job on mine and other cars by my self without any issues. Infact if I am not doing brakes or shocks etc I prefer it that way. Watch some videos and read the writeups and you'll be fine.
 
You can do it alone. Lots of guys do. These two video will help you out.

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Yes I do 95% of everything I do alone. Tim's videos are a very excellent guide as well. :)

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or are you meaning just doing the belt and not the rollers, tensioners, waterpump ?
While I have not gone that route, im sure others have.
I have read that many people will only do full replacement every 2nd belt, or when they get up to about 200k. You will often see cars advertised as new timing belt, makes me wonder if that is all that was done.
then of course the debate comes back as what brand parts were used

If you have no records of what all has been done, I would do it all.
 
Get the Aisin kit on Amazon that includes all new pulleys, water pump and hydraulic tensioner. Watch Timmy's Videos to decide if you are comfortable doing the job. One tip I have is to make sure the foam seal on the plastic upper cover is good. If not, moisture will build up in there and on foggy mornings and cause horrible squealing, it's even worse when it's actually raining hard! Ask me how I know!

While you are there, it's a good idea to do the Valve cover gaskets/Intake Gaskets, Clean the throttle body, replace all the vacuum hoses you can touch, and do a solid inspection on the rest of them. You Valve covers are likley seeping already, use an inspection mirror to check between the firewall and block, this is where my leak started, now it's all the way around. I wish I had just paid my guy to do the VC gaskets 4 years ago when I did the new Timing Belt Kit.
 
I'm at 210k miles on mine that I just got about a month ago and have no idea when it was replaced last. I'm probably going to pick up this kit and follow Timmy's video and get it done in the next few months.
 
I do pretty well all my auto work alone.
I just finished doing an entire lift to include lower controll arm bushings, steering rack bushings, lower ball joints, ect... all alone.

I like to watch Tim’s videos, but having done so, I’ve devised a few drinking games. You take a drink every time he says “sick mod” or anytime he mentions “how handy a second set of hands is”.

But yes, the timing belt job doesn’t have any parts that could use a second set of hands.
 
I'm at 210k miles on mine that I just got about a month ago and have no idea when it was replaced last. I'm probably going to pick up this kit and follow Timmy's video and get it done in the next few months.


I’m kind of thinking it was replaced once cause it’s at 205k and still going strong. I didn’t buy the kit but buying them one at a time due to limited funds. I have the belt (oem) and water pump (aisin) so far. Need the cam and crank seals, bearings, tensioner and crank bolt. Ok I have the confidence to move forward on this. Let’s go!


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Thanks guys for all the help. I’ll be back in this thread if I have any questions when I actually am doing the job.


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I’m kind of thinking it was replaced once cause it’s at 205k and still going strong. I didn’t buy the kit but buying them one at a time due to limited funds. I have the belt (oem) and water pump (aisin) so far. Need the cam and crank seals, bearings and tensioner. Ok I have the confidence to move forward on this. Let’s go!


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Yea mine seems to be running fine. I need to pull off the top timing cover and inspect it and see if I notice any wear on the belt or leaking from the water pump.
 
I’m kind of thinking it was replaced once cause it’s at 205k and still going strong. I didn’t buy the kit but buying them one at a time due to limited funds. I have the belt (oem) and water pump (aisin) so far. Need the cam and crank seals, bearings and tensioner. Ok I have the confidence to move forward on this. Let’s go!


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Psst... leave the crank seal alone, it never leaks... Cam seals are easy enough though if you can get the cam gears off. They sometimes are stuck on really good and even with the belt on they don't come off. You'll need to buy the pulley holder tool if that happens.
 
Psst... leave the crank seal alone, it never leaks... Cam seals are easy enough though if you can get the cam gears off. They sometimes are stuck on really good and even with the belt on they don't come off. You'll need to buy the pulley holder tool if that happens.


Ahh dang I just got disinterested again lol. You definite that the crank seals never leak? I’ll just buy the seals just to be safe. They are not that expensive.


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Question: just watched Timmys video one more time and came to the part where he stripped the bolt for the tensioner idler pulley. What’s the chances that happens? Have any of you had that issue?


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well its been 2 years for me, and I did not have any issues...funny about tim stripping the bolt, might have to watch just to see him do it as I dont remeber that...seen everyone of his videos and use them for reference often
 
I’m kind of thinking it was replaced once cause it’s at 205k and still going strong. I didn’t buy the kit but buying them one at a time due to limited funds. I have the belt (oem) and water pump (aisin) so far. Need the cam and crank seals, bearings, tensioner and crank bolt. Ok I have the confidence to move forward on this. Let’s go!
Don't replace the seals unless they are leaking. Toyota cam/crank seals last a really long time, generally and you can mess up the job and cause a leak that wasn't there in the first place. I like to have them on hand, but generally don't use them.

-Charlie
 
Question: just watched Timmys video one more time and came to the part where he stripped the bolt for the tensioner idler pulley. What’s the chances that happens? Have any of you had that issue?


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Torque wrenches if not caliberated can be off. If you have a cheap torque wrench and the bolt is tight enough stop wrenching on it or you end up stripping or worse breaking the bolt specially the smaller bolts in the block. I think the tensioner pulley torque is like 20 ftlbs which is not that high. You'll be surprised to learn that shop mechanics don't use torque wrenches that often.
 
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I've did it myself about a month or two ago. Only ran into one issue which was a result of the crank pulley breaking a tooth. It was my first time attempt a big job like that and it wasn't that bad. Some good tips from Tim in the videos. Check the crank pulley teeth when you get the belt on and be careful taking it off. I listened to the advice of a few people and didn't change the cam seals since they weren't leaking.

Otherwise; good luck, be thorough, and enjoy that victory beer once complete.
 
Got another question, as for the camshaft gears going off tdc right after belt removal Is it ok to rotate the sprockets counter clock to make the mark or gotta go clock wise to get the marks to line up again? This is when the T belts already off. I understand for the crank it should go clockwise only with belt of without belt.


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I've did it myself about a month or two ago. Only ran into one issue which was a result of the crank pulley breaking a tooth. It was my first time attempt a big job like that and it wasn't that bad. Some good tips from Tim in the videos. Check the crank pulley teeth when you get the belt on and be careful taking it off. I listened to the advice of a few people and didn't change the cam seals since they weren't leaking.

Otherwise; good luck, be thorough, and enjoy that victory beer once complete.


Yes beer sounds good after a victory!!!!! Thanks brother for the input


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