Timing chain cover and changing valve lifter on 1GR-FE

[waypoint]

That's a compression clamp usually found on cooling hoses. Check the hoses on the thermostat assembly and the radiator, both ends of each hose.

 

[epicpilgrim]

That's a compression clamp usually found on cooling hoses. Check the hoses on the thermostat assembly and the radiator, both ends of each hose.

Looked everywhere, everything had clamps where it should. Maybe it shipped with a spare?

Well, got it all back up and running today. Took about 6 attempts with fuel pump relay out to get the oil pressure light to go out, each about 5-10 seconds. That was a bit nerve wracking. Eventually went out, started her up, little bit knocky for the first 3-4 seconds then came back to the normal clicky 1GR-FE we all know and love So far so good! Will put a few hundred kms on her over the next week and see how we go. But got it up to temp to get coolant and oil levels right and no drips that I could see anywhere. That was a mission, tell you what. Thanks so much waypoint, couldn't have done this without your input!

 

[kc15842]

Congrats!
I'm a bit behind you and your post helps.
Ordered the both FIPG sealant today and the water pump so I could torque the complete assembly at once.
I plan on putting an oil pressure guage so I can verify actual pressure instead of the light. We'll see.

Congrats again

 

[epicpilgrim]

Congrats!
I'm a bit behind you and your post helps.
Ordered the both FIPG sealant today and the water pump so I could torque the complete assembly at once.
I plan on putting an oil pressure guage so I can verify actual pressure instead of the light. We'll see.

Congrats again

Thanks! Not for the faint-hearted.

You ordered new o-rings/seals as well? For future reference, here are the part numbers for the bits I ordered:

* 08826-00100 - FIPG for water pump
* 08826-00080 - FIPG for timing cover
* 90311-42045 or 90311-42037 - crankshaft oil seal
* 96722-24030 - oil pump o-ring
* 15692-31010 - oil filter assembly o-ring
* 96761-35031 - water inlet o-ring (unless replacing water pump and one comes with that)
* 16325-31010 - water inlet housing gasket (unless replacing water pump)
* 15193-31010 - top oil pump o-ring
* 17176-31160 or 17176-31010 - air surge gasket
* 15119-31050 and 15188-31050 (optional) - oil pickup tube o-rings if removing/servicing oil pump (I didn't do this in the end)

I ordered aftermarket Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets ages ago so don't have the part numbers for those from Toyota but you can find at megazip.net.

 

[kc15842]

I ordered the Toyota overhaul kit. My son spun a rod bearing so its been a complete rebuild. The bummer with the kit it doesn't have all softgoods.
Missing the main cap seal washers for the 8 cap bolts. Doesn't have the valve cover seal washers, doesn't have the VVT solenoid orings and it sure didn't have the 2 FIPG sealants.

Thanks for sharing the part numbers.

 

[epicpilgrim]

Gosh. My job was big enough, can’t imagine your one. How many kms/miles on that engine?

New o rings for VVT solenoids came with my fel-pro valve cover gasket set from rockauto, so I didn’t have to order them separately. Fractionally thicker material than OEM but so far no issues.

 

[waypoint]

New o rings for VVT solenoids came with my fel-pro valve cover gasket set from rockauto, so I didn’t have to order them separately. Fractionally thicker material than OEM but so far no issues.

So that's what those are!! I bought that Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kit early in my project during diagnosis, had to pull the passenger side valve cover to check timing and see that the chain was elongated...couldn't figure out what the other o-rings were for and had already chucked the kit box.

 

[waypoint]

How's it running? I was thinking of your project today while doing my 5K mile oil change, and looking at the timing cover recalling what a PITA that was.

 

[epicpilgrim]

So that's what those are!! I bought that Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kit early in my project during diagnosis, had to pull the passenger side valve cover to check timing and see that the chain was elongated...couldn't figure out what the other o-rings were for and had already chucked the kit box.

Look, I assume that's what they are They fit, the solenoid went in fine, nothing is leaking... Just slightly thicker material. But yeah, Fel-Pro shipped twice as many of those and the valve cover bolt gaskets than I needed for some reason, and all they called the O-rings were "oil control plugs" which was mighty ambiguous

 

[epicpilgrim]

How's it running? I was thinking of your project today while doing my 5K mile oil change, and looking at the timing cover recalling what a PITA that was.

Honestly the adrenaline is still draining after starting it for the first time yesterday. Just put 30km on it, seems to be going well. No smoke, no error codes, no coolant loss, no obvious leaks. Have had to top the oil up but it was pretty bone dry after taking the last 1-2 months to do this job so hopefully that's just oil finding every nook and cranny again. Other than some knocking on the first startup yesterday, it's been great! You can be sure if I have any issues then I'll be reporting back here though

 

[kc15842]

Sounds like you nailed it! OK, dumb question, once you have the cam chains and the primary chain set, all timing marks lined up and the yellow and orange links are correct how many rotations before it all lines up again?

 

[epicpilgrim]

Sounds like you nailed it! OK, dumb question, once you have the cam chains and the primary chain set, all timing marks lined up and the yellow and orange links are correct how many rotations before it all lines up again?

No such thing as a dumb question I did at least 10 rotations and never managed to get the coloured links to line up again. My understanding is they are only coloured for installation, not to line up each {x} rotations. As long as, each time your crankshaft key is pointing at the timing mark and your cylinder 1 is at TDC, your cam marks line up appropriately, my understanding is that everything is in time. That's the assumption I went under, and everything is working well for me. As long as you haven't turned the crank or cams drastically since taking everything apart, shouldn't have an issue.

Now, my time to question the wisdom of this board... a few more hours' driving, everything still seems A-OK with the car. One thing I did notice is that the top radiator pipe is significantly hotter than the lower pipe - I can touch it but I can't hold it for long. Is this normal? Bottom pipe still warm but I could hold it forever. Thermostat is registering a good temp, is this behaviour to be expected? I've never paid attention to the hose temps before.

 

[Toronto4runner2]

No such thing as a dumb question I did at least 10 rotations and never managed to get the coloured links to line up again. My understanding is they are only coloured for installation, not to line up each {x} rotations. As long as, each time your crankshaft key is pointing at the timing mark and your cylinder 1 is at TDC, your cam marks line up appropriately, my understanding is that everything is in time. That's the assumption I went under, and everything is working well for me. As long as you haven't turned the crank or cams drastically since taking everything apart, shouldn't have an issue.

Now, my time to question the wisdom of this board... a few more hours' driving, everything still seems A-OK with the car. One thing I did notice is that the top radiator pipe is significantly hotter than the lower pipe - I can touch it but I can't hold it for long. Is this normal? Bottom pipe still warm but I could hold it forever. Thermostat is registering a good temp, is this behaviour to be expected? I've never paid attention to the hose temps before.

Yes absolutely normal!! i know this is late

 

[epicpilgrim]

Haha yes very late but thanks anyway. The truck is still running great for any interested. Pretty happy with that job if I may say so myself.

 

[daprotege5]

I'm following right behind finishing this job myself. got the heads back a couple days ago, put them on with fel-pro head gaskets. my woodruff key had some damage to it so waiting for a new one to come in i ordered.

crank has some scrapes on it, looks like from previous owner not torquing the main pulley, so replaced that as well. Hopefully by this weekend will have her up and running.

any suggestions for putting the sealant on the cover??? just from how you have to angle it, i was thinking might be better to put the sealant on the engine side first.... just found it weird that those two bolts on the bottom are there, would be much easier to seal the cover if you didnt have to slide the bottom into those bolts.

 

[epicpilgrim]

any suggestions for putting the sealant on the cover??? just from how you have to angle it, i was thinking might be better to put the sealant on the engine side first.... just found it weird that those two bolts on the bottom are there, would be much easier to seal the cover if you didnt have to slide the bottom into those bolts.

That bit was a pain. I took three attempts (which meant cleaning up wet FIPG twice) before I was happy with it. Was awhile ago now so honestly can't remember precisely how we did it, but I think I did get a very small amount of gasket maker and held the O-ring in place in the cover when I did it. Obviously, the way the engine was originally put together was that the sump went on last, so this isn't normally an issue. We're just trying to take a short-cut here.

The FIPG box says that you have like 2-3 minutes to mate the surfaces up. Honestly, it took us more like 5 minutes to get the timing cover FIPG on (especially as you need to apply two FIPGs - one for the water inlets and one for the outside seal), and you don't want to miss anything. Then it probably took us about 5 minutes to be confident that it had mated up well and we hadn't lost the O ring, and another 5-10 minutes to get everything torqued up. And it sealed perfect and haven't had an issue. So don't rush it because of the drying time (but I wouldn't do this job in dry heat either - I think it was a cooler, rainy day when we did it which would have extended drying time).

Last thing I remember doing is trying to put the timing cover on on a slight angle so that the O ring was the last thing to mate. It's a bit hard because the studs limit the angle you can get. Also, put a smidgen of oil on the sump cover where the O-ring is going to slide. Think it through though, because you don't want the oil mixing much with the FIPG. Just the tiniest amount to help it slide and not grab. Don't put it on the O ring because then it will smudge some oil in front of the FIPG and mess up the bonding.

Good luck! If I ever do the job again, I may consider dropping the sump (but that is a big job in itself as from memory the diff may have to come out). Fingers crossed this job lasts the rest of the life of the engine though - just make sure you really fill that gap in the timing cover properly so it doesn't leak again.

 

[daprotege5]

Has anyone tried placing the sealant on the engine side?? Instead of the cover side. That was my first thought when I saw the two bolts on the bottom you have to slide the cover onto.

 

[waypoint]

Has anyone tried placing the sealant on the engine side?? Instead of the cover side. That was my first thought when I saw the two bolts on the bottom you have to slide the cover onto.

The two studs can be removed easily w/ an inverse-Torx socket, I bought a $10 set of them at Harbor Freight when I did my project and the right one was in there.

 

[daprotege5]

The two studs can be removed easily w/ an inverse-Torx socket, I bought a $10 set of them at Harbor Freight when I did my project and the right one was in there.

You answered my pondering…. Cause once you take those bolts off it should be cake putting the cover on.

 

[daprotege5]

oring seems to not want to stay in slot for bottom of the timing cover keeps popping off. any suggestions??