Timing (PICS)

J

JamesDean91

New member
Well iv owned this truck since last November and sometime in January on a snow run I noticed the truck idled a lot more roughly then before. Now I'm young and dumb so I didnt think anything of it and just kept on going on. So now almost 9 months later I decided I should get to the bottom of the rough idle and poor MPG, I decided I would check my timing first and I am pretty sure I found the culprit
Passenger head

Driver head

I set the motor to tdc and these are the results, am I mistaken or shouldn't the timing marks line up? If they are and I have been driving like this for the past 9 months do you think I did any internal damage?
Is there any tricks to right the head without doing a timing job? Or should I just man up and do a timing job... any kits someone would reccomend ?
 
Register to hide this ad
yeah who ever last did you timing belt messed it up, im surprised it hasnt thrown a code. but no worries the worse that has happened is you got some crapy mileage. these are a noninterference motor, meaning that you can not do internal damage to them by spinning them over out of time or without a timing belt ect. even if the motor is spinning at high rpms and the belt breaks.

the only way to fix this is to pull it all apart and reset it all but taking the belt off and reinstalling it, at which point you may as well instal a new belt, water pump and thermostat at least while youre there. id just use toyota parts personally but thats cause i get factory parts at cost. so thats basically all i ever use
 
the kid said:
yeah who ever last did you timing belt messed it up, im surprised it hasnt thrown a code. but no worries the worse that has happened is you got some crapy mileage. these are a noninterference motor, meaning that you can not do internal damage to them by spinning them over out of time or without a timing belt ect. even if the motor is spinning at high rpms and the belt breaks.

the only way to fix this is to pull it all apart and reset it all but taking the belt off and reinstalling it, at which point you may as well instal a new belt, water pump and thermostat at least while youre there. id just use toyota parts personally but thats cause i get factory parts at cost. so thats basically all i ever use
Click to expand...

Hmmm you do live near me wanna help a fellow t4r guy out? Lol


Edit: just purchased that eBay kit seemed way better for the money, just did the gf 1.8t VW belt the whole kit costed me 300 bones
 
Last edited:
yeah i can walk you through it... i even have a handy little special tool that will help. now ive only ever done the belt water pump and thermo. ive never replaced seals or oil pumps or even the tensioner
 
Just did this today....would've only taken 3 hours if I didn't have to remove that damn woodruff key. Man that was such a pain!!!!
 
the kid said:
yeah i can walk you through it... i even have a handy little special tool that will help. now ive only ever done the belt water pump and thermo. ive never replaced seals or oil pumps or even the tensioner
Click to expand...

I don't have any leaks so I probably won't do the seals but I will save them for when I rebuild the motor (296k)
Is the special tool a cam tool so I can rotate the one back to position?
 
nope, that can be done with any wrench. but if you are gonna be replacing the tensioner then my tool is useless for this application. i have the tensioner reset.
tbr_12.jpg
 

Attachments

  • tbr_12.jpg
    tbr_12.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 799
idk i was gonna do one, but my old computer crashed with all my notes i made along the way and pics i took. i do know that replacing the tensioner requires the AC pump to come off though and that can be a PITA. the timing belt job can be a hour job start to finish if you get it right the first time and not have a bunch of clean up -including WP and thermo. but the tensioner can add another half hour or more. but id still plan all afternoon at least for this job
 
the kid said:
idk i was gonna do one, but my old computer crashed with all my notes i made along the way and pics i took. i do know that replacing the tensioner requires the AC pump to come off though and that can be a PITA. the timing belt job can be a hour job start to finish if you get it right the first time and not have a bunch of clean up -including WP and thermo. but the tensioner can add another half hour or more. but id still plan all afternoon at least for this job
Click to expand...

I'm planning 2 evenings to do it, going to install my trans cooler that has been on a shelf since December. So plan is pull rad and drain all coolant do the tb do a at home trans flush then install it all back together..
 
It's really not a bad job at all even with the trans cooler it should take you maybe 6 hours. Trust me by a chain wrench for the pulley removal if you're gonna do it, do it right. I learned the lesson a few different times trying to make my own tools or get by with something.

Ya that's a good right up for you to go by. I skipped a few things to save time. I got it done really fast today. I even pulled timing gear and spent awhile trying to make woodruff key come out.
 
Forrrrest said:
It's really not a bad job at all even with the trans cooler it should take you maybe 6 hours. Trust me by a chain wrench for the pulley removal if you're gonna do it, do it right. I learned the lesson a few different times trying to make my own tools or get by with something.

Ya that's a good right up for you to go by. I skipped a few things to save time. I got it done really fast today. I even pulled timing gear and spent awhile trying to make woodruff key come out.
Click to expand...

Whats the reason for removing the timing gear and wood ruff key?
For breaking the crank bolt loose I already know the easiest way to do it..
Breaker bar with socket on bolt with breaker bar against the frame then go bump the starter.
 
JamesDean91 said:
Whats the reason for removing the timing gear and wood ruff key?
For breaking the crank bolt loose I already know the easiest way to do it..
Breaker bar with socket on bolt with breaker bar against the frame then go bump the starter.
Click to expand...

Ya but what are you going to do when you have to torque it down to 217ftnlbs? Well to replace the front main seal you have to remove timing gear. I tore it down because my crank pulley was wobbling so I thought it. Was loose which it wasn't, woodruff key was worn so I replaced it. And replaced pulley but I still have the wobbles. It's the same thing as doing a tb job. i just reused my timing belt. Also make sure you have it on the correct side when you bump it loose.
 
Forrrrest said:
Ya but what are you going to do when you have to torque it down to 217ftnlbs? Well to replace the front main seal you have to remove timing gear. I tore it down because my crank pulley was wobbling so I thought it. Was loose which it wasn't, woodruff key was worn so I replaced it. And replaced pulley but I still have the wobbles. It's the same thing as doing a tb job. i just reused my timing belt. Also make sure you have it on the correct side when you bump it loose.
Click to expand...

Good question guess I'll see how tight I can tq it down before needing a special tool..
Now it makes sence lol
 
JamesDean91 said:
Good question guess I'll see how tight I can tq it down before needing a special tool..
Now it makes sence lol
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and go buy the biggest chain wrench you can find!!!!! You will use it for all sorts of stuff. I used 4 specialty tools for the job and it saved a ton time
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 395 (members: 5, guests: 390)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,051
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top