Tips on bleeding front brakes.

[Teqeeler]

I'm going to try and replace my front calipers tomorrow since they are frozen along with the rotors and pads.

I would just like to bleed the front brakes as i won't have much time.
This is what i gather.
I start with the passenger side front caliper and leave the car in the on position. I should then have someone push on the gas pedal 4-5 times and have them hold it in the down position. Then I release the bleeder screw and let it drip out and then repeat till new fluid comes out?
Should i take the old fluid out with a turkey baster and fill it with new fluid? and should the new fluid come out the front ones correct?

I wont need to do the rear lines since they are all separate?

I'm new to bleeding brakes and since i've never done it, it seems a little confusing.

Thanks.

 

[YotaDriver]

Yeah, I think you would want to remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir prior to starting the process. Once you've connected your new calipers to the brake lines and re-filled the reservoir with new fluid you'll want to have someone apply a bit of pressure on the pedal while you loosen the bleeder valve. Prior to them letting their foot off the pedal you want to re-tighten the bleeder valve so that no air is pulled in as the pedal rises. Repeat this process until the fluid being pushed out looks new, then tighten the bleeder valve and move on to the next caliper.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I would recommend a different procedure from the standard model due to the brake setup-up on these vehicles. You want to minimize the air introduced into the system as much as possible because you will otherwise need a ABS capable tool to bi-directionally control the ABS solenoid pack to properly bleed the system.

Keep the vehicle turned OFF, turning the vehicle on (even key on engine off) will allow the Hydraboost system to self-pressurize and could potentially move any air introduced into the system back into the Hydraboost unit, which is what we are trying to avoid here. Conventional pump & hold will not work on this system because the master cylinder & ABS Solenoid pack are directly connected with each other and the system will not like you pumping the brakes and work against you.

I would recommend you clamp off the soft lines from the caliper prior to the frame prior to disconnecting the brake line. I would personally use something like this: SK PROFESSIONAL TOOLS Hose Pinch Pliers, Automotive, Green, 9 In - Automotive Specialized Tools - 13P196|7602 - Grainger Industrial Supply to reduce the likelyhood of damaging the lines themselves.

After you've removed the caliper and installed the new one, overfill the master cylinder and crack open the bleeder screw and unclamp the brake line. Let the fluid gravity drain until you see clean fluid coming out of the bleeder screw and make sure you keep the brake fluid topped off and let it drop no lower than about min to be safe.

This will ensure that you have not introduced any air into the system, allowed the Hydraboost to pressurize and circulate that air into the system potentially, and also not require a scantool to complete. This procedure will require more patience than traditional pump & hold method, but it is really the most effective way to achieve your goal without having to utilize a scantool.

 

[MikeInNH]

I start with the passenger side front caliper and leave the car in the on position. I should then have someone push on the gas pedal 4-5 times and have them hold it in the down position. Then I release the bleeder screw and let it drip out and then repeat till new fluid comes out?

It's NOT going to drip out...It'll be under pressure..it'll come flying out of there and splash everywhere.

BlackWorksInc procedure is a good safe way of making sure there's no air in the system. It's safer then bleeding the brakes.

One thing you may want to look into...is replacing the 6" brakeline that connects to the calipers. It's a solid steel line and if those connectors get frozen...it's a pain. So what I did was replaced them with braided-steel flex line. Just made the next caliper replacement easier...and if you keep this vehicle long enough..you'll need to replace those calipers again.

 

[Bob J]

It's NOT going to drip out...It'll be under pressure..it'll come flying out of there and splash everywhere.

BlackWorksInc procedure is a good safe way of making sure there's no air in the system. It's safer then bleeding the brakes.

One thing you may want to look into...is replacing the 6" brakeline that connects to the calipers. It's a solid steel line and if those connectors get frozen...it's a pain. So what I did was replaced them with braided-steel flex line. Just made the next caliper replacement easier...and if you keep this vehicle long enough..you'll need to replace those calipers again.

Just ordered the stoptech braided stainless lines myself for the same reason.... I plan on keeping this truck for a long time and figure I might as well plan for the future....

 

[Kmvreter]

I'm going to try and replace my front calipers tomorrow since they are frozen...

... I should then have someone push on the gas pedal 4-5 times and have them hold it in the down position...

I'll assume you meant to type BRAKE pedal instead of "gas"?

Just press it once for each cycle of the open/close bleeding.

 

[cabowally]

Don't know about all this other stuff but the FSM bleeding instructions are pretty clear:


(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal 20 times or more to release the pressure from the accumulator.
(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.
(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start the brake booster pump.
(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.

BLEED BRAKE LINE


(a) Front brake line
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(4) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(5) Repeat (3) and (4) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
(6) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.

Clamping the soft lines is a good habit since it cuts down on the amount of fluid that can potentially spill all over the place.




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