Tire noise or what from front end?
- Thread starter rgcary
- Start date
DEF4Runner
New member
Might also be a good time to check your CV/axles since you're already disassembled to that level. If the boot is torn or leaking 'milkshake', it won't be long before you're tearing it back apart for another repair (unless you hose clamp the small shaft point on the inner boot).
If they're worn, you have a few options:
1) Reboot your axles for $45 a piece with a OEM boot kit from Amazon
2) Get remanufactured OEM axles (not NAPA, Autozone) from CVJ Axles for ~ $100 each, after the core is returned to them.
3) There's also the NAPA/AutoZone axles. Some on the forum claim they're not the same as OEM quality
I guess it all depends on the depth of your wallet and what needs to be done. I'm at 145K and I'm currently replacing the LCAs (my right LBJ was shot), Axles (both inner boots bled), front differential needle bearing(fixing a vibration issue), all seals I encounter along the way and a few other minor acts of kindness to my 4R to keep her on the road. Looking at your profile, you're at 115K. Might be time to keep an eye on this stuff.
As far as the wheel bearings, if you can replace brake pads, you can do those. That BluePit video was pretty much spot on, sans some stubborn bolts.
If they're worn, you have a few options:
1) Reboot your axles for $45 a piece with a OEM boot kit from Amazon
2) Get remanufactured OEM axles (not NAPA, Autozone) from CVJ Axles for ~ $100 each, after the core is returned to them.
3) There's also the NAPA/AutoZone axles. Some on the forum claim they're not the same as OEM quality
I guess it all depends on the depth of your wallet and what needs to be done. I'm at 145K and I'm currently replacing the LCAs (my right LBJ was shot), Axles (both inner boots bled), front differential needle bearing(fixing a vibration issue), all seals I encounter along the way and a few other minor acts of kindness to my 4R to keep her on the road. Looking at your profile, you're at 115K. Might be time to keep an eye on this stuff.
As far as the wheel bearings, if you can replace brake pads, you can do those. That BluePit video was pretty much spot on, sans some stubborn bolts.
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I just did mine. Get the seal. Also note the trick for using the dust cap to seat the seal. I did a little thread on my experience here.
This is an easy job. I just used a 1/2 breaker bar and ordered the 35mm socket from Amazon. I also bought the hub from [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION]
nj636
Banned
az4runner02
New member
In the process of replacing both. Straight up easy but....my dam hub flange was a ***** to get off. Took me a few hours on that part alone otherwise it would have taken about 2 hours because I have the wheel spacers. I highly suggest OP's hub assemblies BTW. Kevin builds a nice product just dont wait last minute to order them. He is pretty busy so give yourself some extra time and he will get them to you. All depends how many he has ready and how many orders but way worth the wait...
Hey guys. Just wanted to give you an update on mine. I was able to get all the way down to the hub assembly and it would not budge with coming off. Everything else was easy up to that part, took about 30 min because I have minimal rust and I used PB blaster ahead of time. I messed around with the hub for a few hours and just could not get it to move so I put things back together. I was able to break the 4 hub bolts free and split the bolts from where they bolt on, but good grief that hub would not slide any on the axle. It was actually moving the entire axle, so even if I did have a hub puller I would be concerned about the axle moving too much. Kind of had me concerned because the video made it look really easy, but not the case with mine. I didn't seem to make it any worse than it already was with the slight humming sound when driving. I think something like a hub puller could have been used and made it easier, but I'm throwing in the towel at this point. :-( I'll be scheduling a trip to the dealership and pay for the hour labor it will take them to pull it off. I'm sure they'll have the necessary tools unlike me playing weekend DIY. I'll only take it to the dealer because a few local shops around here looked at the new hub with too many questions and I knew they were not the right people to turn to.
Thanks. I had the boots (inner and outer) replaced on both sides a long time ago since they cracked and I caught early before damage done. That was at about 90,000. I'm at 167,000 now and she runs great outside of the slight hum noise. from bearing No issues with boots and I check every oil change at around 5000 miles to see how things are looking. This is the first issue outside of normal wear and tear that has come up since then.
I really like my 4Runner like many others do out here with theirs. I want to keep her on the road as long as possible (I don't do off road) and keep up with all the necessary maintenance intervals. No dents, rust and paint looks like new. I was reading over some other posts and realize there will come a time and point where spending money on major repairs might not be worth it, but I'm not at that point right now and will cross that when I come to it. I always worry about having to drop a rebuilt engine in this thing, but I hear many people get 300,000 out of their stock block with limited issues.
I really like my 4Runner like many others do out here with theirs. I want to keep her on the road as long as possible (I don't do off road) and keep up with all the necessary maintenance intervals. No dents, rust and paint looks like new. I was reading over some other posts and realize there will come a time and point where spending money on major repairs might not be worth it, but I'm not at that point right now and will cross that when I come to it. I always worry about having to drop a rebuilt engine in this thing, but I hear many people get 300,000 out of their stock block with limited issues.
Might also be a good time to check your CV/axles since you're already disassembled to that level. If the boot is torn or leaking 'milkshake', it won't be long before you're tearing it back apart for another repair (unless you hose clamp the small shaft point on the inner boot).
If they're worn, you have a few options:
1) Reboot your axles for $45 a piece with a OEM boot kit from Amazon
2) Get remanufactured OEM axles (not NAPA, Autozone) from CVJ Axles for ~ $100 each, after the core is returned to them.
3) There's also the NAPA/AutoZone axles. Some on the forum claim they're not the same as OEM quality
I guess it all depends on the depth of your wallet and what needs to be done. I'm at 145K and I'm currently replacing the LCAs (my right LBJ was shot), Axles (both inner boots bled), front differential needle bearing(fixing a vibration issue), all seals I encounter along the way and a few other minor acts of kindness to my 4R to keep her on the road. Looking at your profile, you're at 115K. Might be time to keep an eye on this stuff.
As far as the wheel bearings, if you can replace brake pads, you can do those. That BluePit video was pretty much spot on, sans some stubborn bolts.
If you think the hub is stuck to the axle splines then just put the axle nut back on the axle threads at the very end of the axle stub to protect the threads and give it a few taps with a hammer. A rubber mallet works well too. It'll slide right out.
nj636
Banned
Thank you for chiming in, I was going to recommend this.
