Tire Pressure

Tire pressure on Toyo Open Country MT's

Anyone have an idea what's best pressure for mpg and wear for Toyo Open Country Mt's 33X12.50 20 E rated?
I've been running 40 psi since I put them on and gas mileage went from 20mpg with stock 17's to 15.6mpg with the 20's.
I just want to get the best mileage but also comfy ride and best wear. Thanks!
 
I also run around 37-40psi on 265/70R17 BFG AT (C load range) on my '13 SR5 4x4. Rides well, and the MPG hit was minimal. I ran the stock tires around 36-37 for the month I had them...

I'm tempted to go a little higher on the BFG's - Anyone experience issues with premature center-wear (ballooning) with higher PSI's? (koz)?

:cool:

I'd say keep them at 38 or so. I had mine at 42-44psi when I first got them. After 5000 miles, I could already tell they were wearing more on the center than the rest of the tread. 38psi provides a nice ride and enough load capacity to handle the 4Runner and any weight you add to it.


I recently "upgraded" those 265/70 (Load Range C) KOs to 285/70 (Load Range D) KOs and am runing them at 38 psi as well.
 
tire pressure

My 2010 LT has duelers HT's and I run at 33-34 on the front and 35-36 on the back and get about 18-19mpg in town and 21-22 on the freeway , now at 71K and no front end shimmy .
 
40-42 on the stuck summer tires, and 42 PSI for winter tires. Keeps the walls stiff enough so you get to keep some road handling. Always done that and never noticed more center-wear on my tires.
 
Here is a reply from BFG re KO2s (275/70 r17) ...

I put on BFG AT KO2 275/70 R17 tires.
What tire pressure should I run (currently running 40)

What pressure should I run when I tow my 3500 lb pop-up trailer (375lb tongue).

Thank you for your guidance.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
I’d like to use my passion for BFGoodrich products to offer you the following information:

When installing a different size than the original equipment tire, all vehicle manufacturer specifications must be maintained. The replacement tire should be inflated to provide the same load capability of the original tire size at the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

If your original equipment tires were tire size P265/70R17" and the original equipment pressures were 32 psi front and rear, we would recommend that you inflate your BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 tires in size LT275/70R17 to 50 psi to carry a similar load and for proper handling. If the OE tire size is different, please advise.

With only 400 pounds of tongue weight, each tire will carry a load of 2600 lbs per tire or 5200 lbs combine. So, there should not be any issues at 50 psi for the tongue, since the trailer has an axle or two for the majority of weight.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
Please do not waste your time getting nitrogen. Here is a fun video about it...Boooo nitrogen.

Edit: After re-watching this video, I forgot how good it was. We need more of this stuff in the US.
 
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the nitrogen was going to be used to keep the pressure steady at whatever the tire was being filled to. i think,no?
i have the kumho kl61's.....says "standard load" on the sidewall......P load rating also?

thx
anthony

nitrogen does work to keep the pressure from changing with temp changes. when using air which has oxygen in it that means water is inside the tire .. this aids in the corrosion that develops .

with air not nitrogen on my tires I have to add air in the fall and remove air in the spring.

since many do not use nitrogen now is the time to check your AIR pressure in the tires .

I run my OEM stock tires at 38 psi they do wear even.
 
nitrogen does work to keep the pressure from changing with temp changes. when using air which has oxygen in it that means water is inside the tire .. this aids in the corrosion that develops .

with air not nitrogen on my tires I have to add air in the fall and remove air in the spring.

since many do not use nitrogen now is the time to check your AIR pressure in the tires .

I run my OEM stock tires at 38 psi they do wear even.

CopFlashingLights.gif

*woop woop*

sir, i'm pulling you over for violating the ideal gas law. you are in a p=nRT/V zone


just make sure you aren't filling up from a compressed air tank full of water and check if the line has a dryer on it
 
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nitrogen does work to keep the pressure from changing with temp changes. when using air which has oxygen in it that means water is inside the tire .. this aids in the corrosion that develops .
with air not nitrogen on my tires I have to add air in the fall and remove air in the spring.
since many do not use nitrogen now is the time to check your AIR pressure in the tires .
I run my OEM stock tires at 38 psi they do wear even.
You really need to watch the video one post above yours. Many of the claims proclaimed by people selling Nitrogen are technically true, but realistically irrelavant.
The 0.1% improvement in temperature stability may make a slight difference in large-volume high-mileage over-the-road commercial truck fleets, but will not be measureable in your average passenger vehicle.

I have never in my life heard of a tire failing because of internal corrosion; and don't forget, the exterior of the tire is fully exposed to air, plus road salts and other corrosives. The miniscule amount of water vapor in regular air is irrelavant to the inside of a tire.
 
nitrogen does work to keep the pressure from changing with temp changes. when using air which has oxygen in it that means water is inside the tire .. this aids in the corrosion that develops .

with air not nitrogen on my tires I have to add air in the fall and remove air in the spring.

since many do not use nitrogen now is the time to check your AIR pressure in the tires .

I run my OEM stock tires at 38 psi they do wear even.

Lol the video I posted directly above your post does a pretty good job of dispelling all the myths about nitrogen - many of which you have listed in your post. Get the facts about it so you don't have to waste your time with the stuff.
 
You really need to watch the video one post above yours. Many of the claims proclaimed by people selling Nitrogen are technically true, but realistically irrelavant.
The 0.1% improvement in temperature stability may make a slight difference in large-volume high-mileage over-the-road commercial truck fleets, but will not be measureable in your average passenger vehicle.

I have never in my life heard of a tire failing because of internal corrosion; and don't forget, the exterior of the tire is fully exposed to air, plus road salts and other corrosives. The miniscule amount of water vapor in regular air is irrelavant to the inside of a tire.

alloy wheels and the moisture inside the tires pressurized /alloy area .
I have other vehicles very old with the nitrogen and the internal corrosion is non existent also no leaks / slow bead seal leaks .

had tires on my truck 9yrs no leaks .alloy wheels .

racing cars use nitrogen works good with the high tire heat .
 
alloy wheels and the moisture inside the tires pressurized /alloy area .
I have other vehicles very old with the nitrogen and the internal corrosion is non existent also no leaks / slow bead seal leaks .

had tires on my truck 9yrs no leaks .alloy wheels .

racing cars use nitrogen works good with the high tire heat .
Again, technically true, but realistically irrelavant. It just won't make a measureable difference. For example, I've never had problems with internal corrosion on any wheel (alloy or steel) using normal air.

Racing cars are different. If you're racing, a 0.1% difference can be the difference between a win or a loss. Commercial trucks are different. A 0.1% savings added up over billions of road miles becomes measurable.

But for the average passenger car you will not make back the money over the life of the tire. The math just doesn't work out.

That said, it's your money. Spend it however you want. :wof:
 

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