Tire Pressure

4runner423

New member
I remember seeing a few posts a while ago about tread life and people running their tires at a higher PSI then is recommended.

I currently run Bridgestone Dueler HTs and just noticed that they are at about 40PSI. I get decent gas mileage 20mpg 50%highway/50%city.

Am i running these too high? Not too concerned about gas mileage however I would love for these tires to last a long time.

What PSI should i be running these for optimum tread life?
 
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A good rule of thumb is to run about 2-4 psi higher then recommended. Manufacturers like a little softer ride. You don't want to go much higher then 2-4 psi because you then start to give up traction...and the tires will start to wear out unevenly (from the center) of the tire.

Standard tire pressure for the 4runner is 32psi. I run mine at 35psi. I think 40 is a little high.
 
Not trying to hijack, but I just had Toyo Open Country A/T's installled all around, and they crammed in a cold 45psi down here in Florida. I'm wondering if I should release some pressure.
 
I like to run my tires so that the out side edges are not quite making contact with the road surface. That way i have a good contact patch, along with good wear, for me that = 40 psi. If you look at your tread you can usually see were the tire has contacted the road and adjust tire pressure accordingly. Just my .02
 
Run them as high as you feel comfortable, but just don't go over the sidewall max. Remember that pressure is cold pressure. When they heat up the pressure will increase. Running nitrogen will lessen this effect, but there is no need to spend money on nitrogen because the air we breathe is about 80% nitrogen.
 
My 4runner had Bridgestone Dueler ht tires when it was new. I ran them at 32-33 psi cold and they worked fine and they lasted a long time. Since I was not smarter than the engineers that built the 4runner I ran what they recommended. When I switched to BFG all terrains load range c tires I had to increase the pressure to around 37 psi to get even tire contact. I see no reason to go much over 2 psi over the factory psi with a stock size and type tire.
 
...they are at about 40PSI.

What PSI should i be running these for optimum tread life?

Now that's a question that can be worked with.

Higher pressures outlast lower ones so you're already doing that right. 40 psi is probably a bit high as an overall pressure, but with tread life as your goal it could easily turn out to be a sweet spot.

Forget any static measures of footprint. Simply rotate regularly and keep an eye on tread depth symmetry (outer tread depth compared to inner). Tread depth gauges are cheap and very useful.
 
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I've always run an air pressure that results in maximum tread life and rotate tires every 5,000 miles. Air pressure can vary based on tire type, size, gross vehicle weight, climate, etc.
 
but there is no need to spend money on nitrogen because the air we breathe is about 80% nitrogen.

Yeah, but toilet water is only 5-10% urine after business, but I wouldn't drink it...:D

Just kidding, but agreed on that there's no need for pure nitrogen. I like it in my track cars but that's a different story.

Anyway, I also have Dueller H/Ts and they are at 44 psi. Ride a little harsh, but the tires are worn evenly still after I think 50k miles. My truck though is rather light because I have no spare tire, no tools, no back seats, it's a 2WD, and the tow bar is removed. I think my truck comes in at a "featherweight" 4100 lbs or something, not sure if that matters or not.

I also get roughly 26-27.5 mpg on the freeway at 55, I assume because of the help of the tires a little
 
Air pressure can vary based on tire type, size, gross vehicle weight, climate, etc.

What he said, it's not what the truck has from the factory that matters, it's what the tire mfg of the tires you're using recommends.

As far as nitrogen is concerned it's gained popularity because shops can use it instead of compressors and reduce both their setup and maintenance costs. There's really no benefit for the user unless you have a fondness for green valve caps.
 
I run my Michelin LTX M&S2's at 35 all around. Great wear and rotate every 5K.

My previous two sets of LTX's on my Toy pickup where recommended psi was also 32... I ran at 35 and got 72K miles on one set and too many thousands on the other.

Performance was top notch at 35psi as well!
 
As far as nitrogen is concerned it's gained popularity because shops can use it instead of compressors and reduce both their setup and maintenance costs.

How is it cheaper for the shop? And where are they getting the pure nitrogen from?

And if it's so much cheaper...then why do tire shops charge you a premium for it.

Personally I think it's a gimmick. Air is 78% Nitrogen anyways. Some how we've managed to not need pure nitrogen in tires for over 100 years. Now all of a sudden it's NEEDED.
 
How is it cheaper for the shop? And where are they getting the pure nitrogen from?

And if it's so much cheaper...then why do tire shops charge you a premium for it.

Personally I think it's a gimmick. Air is 78% Nitrogen anyways. Some how we've managed to not need pure nitrogen in tires for over 100 years. Now all of a sudden it's NEEDED.

As I said, it's cheaper for the shop because they no longer need compressors to fill tires - no compressors to buy & maintain = savings. They get the nitrogen in compressed bottles just like those of us using small tanks of CO2 for OBA.

If it's cheaper why do they charge a premium? Because they can of course.

Gimmick? Yes, very much so.
 
I didn't think this would be a point of discussion so I'll be a bit more specific. They don't buy nitrogen tanks or have the tanks refilled as us off-road guys do for our OBA. They use nitrogen generators which are quiet, need less maintenance and cost less than compressors.

In other words, nitrogen generators have a lower overhead than compressors so the dealership/service station, etc can make more profit while providing what they claim is "better air" even though, as you mentioned, air is 78% nitrogen. The servicers are happy and the consumers are because they have a better product by using 100% nitrogen instead of 78%.

Basically, while everyone touts the benefits they are marginally correct and it's easy to convince consumers it's better while they improve their bottom line.
 
Doing a quick google search..the CHEAPEST Nitrogen Generator was about $1000. That's a lot expensive for the same size compressor. Compressors are cheap. I'd be surprised the Nitrogen Generator is any where close to the same price.
 
Doing a quick google search..the CHEAPEST Nitrogen Generator was about $1000. That's a lot expensive for the same size compressor. Compressors are cheap. I'd be surprised the Nitrogen Generator is any where close to the same price.

Most the places I see nitrogen fills down here just have a big compressed air tank that gets refilled. I am not sure who does the deliveries/refills. But I don't see a lot of places here offering it. We may just be too poor for nitrogen down here.
 
Doing a quick google search..the CHEAPEST Nitrogen Generator was about $1000. That's a lot expensive for the same size compressor. Compressors are cheap. I'd be surprised the Nitrogen Generator is any where close to the same price.

You could have bought a truck for a lot cheaper but you bought the 4Runner because you knew that in the long run you'd spend less on maintenance, get better reliability, quality, performance, etc. Same concept.

I don't care if anyone believes what I posted or not and I have nothing at stake in what appears to now be a debate. FYI, I don't care and simply shared what I learned reading a trade magazine for tire selling businesses. The article cited Wal-Mart as one company that was eliminating compressors in favor of nitrogen generators and you have to know that if Wal-Mart is doing it than it must improve their bottom-line because that's their only concern.

Yes, air tools can be powered by compressed gases other than air compressors.

I'm out of this thread and will stick to the heavier, more leak prone, old-fashioned air.

Maybe this thread can revert to the OP's post now too.
 

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