Tired Mule

hopdup

hopdup

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Tired Mule...Build

So I picked up a 2001 4Runner from my cousin. Thinking it needed an engine swap. Rad went, overheated and warped the heads.





Old engine out



Picked up a new/used engine with 94k on it. Getting ready to do a T-Belt, Water Pump, Drive Belts, Valve Cover Gaskets, Rear Main Seal.







I couldn't resist, I had to slap some headers on it. Thinking now's the time to do them.
 
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Parts

Got some parts in today and a lot of work ahead of me.









Also, does anyone have experience with solid engine mounts on a 4wd. I have installed them on cars in the past, with a poly trans. mount. I'm thinking of welding the factory mounts solid. I have seen Addicted Off Roads poly mounts. I imagine there isn't much deflection with them. Only thing that scares me is the torque from the engine is now taken by the trans. mount. Thoughts?

 
My cousin borrowed my 94 Bronco years ago and put it into a ditch. Ass$%le!

I'd consider replacing the FIPG on the oil pan and the oil cooler gaskets as well.
 
They provide crisper throttle response. Also eliminate torque loss and binding that come from excessive engine movement.
 
I will be resealing the oil pan. Although it's not that hard to lower the diff and reseal. I've done it a few times at work.
 
hopdup said:
They provide crisper throttle response. Also eliminate torque loss and binding that come from excessive engine movement.
Click to expand...

with increased vibrations.
its not a racecar, or dedicated wheeler, right? it will be a daily driver?

theres no way I would deal with solid mounts on a street rig.
 
Nevada - you make a great point. The stockers are going back in.

J.B. - The are OBX. I picked them up on ebay $300 shipped.
 
A friend has solid mounts on his Tacoma and says it will vibrate your fillings out when at idle, but is great when shifting/accelerating. His isn't his DD though. I'd probably recommend not doing it as Nevada said as it would be uncomfortable for a DD.
 
The outlet flanges use a ball gasket and a round seat on the y-pipe. If you look close you can see the springs bolts. This allows for slight movement. I might weld in a flex section in between the frt. and rr. cats.
 
hopdup said:
Nevada - you make a great point. The stockers are going back in.

J.B. - The are OBX. I picked them up on ebay $300 shipped.
Click to expand...

Im liking the headers, but I have to ask, did you use the gasket that came with them, or a different one. Because ive heqrd nothing but bad news about there gaskets. The headers are quality themselves, but only when paired with a better gasket.
 
I used factory exhaust gaskets on the cylinder head flange. Also used the factory locking nuts. The only gaskets I used from the kit were the donut gaskets for the y-pipe. I'm kinda on the fence with those. They don't look like they will last very long. I could mount the y-pipe with small crush gaskets from Toyota then weld in a flex joint. I'm leaning toward the latter.
 
I went through Rock Auto. The kit is the Aisin timing belt replacement kit. It came with an Aisin w.p. and a Mitsuboshi belt. The tensioner looks a little chinsy. I'm gonna reuse the stocker. As I've never had any problems as long as you compress them slowly. The idler and tensioner pulleys look decent but only time will tell. While pulling the upper and lower plenums to get to the Valve Covers. I noticed a timing cover bolt is missing. Someone has had the front engine apart. Not sure when though, as there is no sticker on the cover.
 
Engine in & starting to look like a motor vehicle again. Terrible pic but I'll get better ones soon.

 
Hey man, did you get this finished up yet?

If so how have the headers been treating you?

Also, just noticed you have pittsburgh listed as your location, are you in town or just the locale? Im just north of you in I-80
 
zgensler, I am almost done with this portion of the build. The Engine is in, I need to weld up a section of exhaust to make it all fit. The exhaust had been repaired in the past. OBX claims it bolts up to Cal Spec 4Runners.
 
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