TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

Some recent deliveries...

From Lil' Skip.

Discount Tire sale...

On sale, couldn't resist, not sure where I'll put this...

From Sonoran Steel...

Got busy on the Lil' Skip's gas tank skid, first removing a thin oil film residue and some grime from the fabrication process...

I then sprayed everything with an etching grey primer.

Then the flat black top coat...

I'll continue on with another post as apparently I have too many photos for one...

 

[TonyB66]

Between these various coats I got back to some de-rusting. I failed to take before photos here, but they were both pretty much a light orange color. After some treatment and a rinse...

And with some high temp BBQ paint I found in a box...

Oh, with rear wheels off, I finally weighed this wheel/tire combo at 58 lbs...

Back to the fuel tank skid, assembled.

And installed...

And for those who care, this skid in total weighs 46 lbs. The stocker it replaces, 14 lbs, so a 32 lb gain. Very happy with the fitment.

After banging my head on this thing a couple times, I decided to remove it.

With the crank in the photo, that's 19 lbs. The only reciprocating saw blades I had that were sufficiently long are for demo, so it was not a pleasant cutting experience, but not the worst either... Left me with this.

Having found my angle grinder somewhat recently, I did some clean-up...

The majority of that material removed can be seen here, good for another pound, so if the entire cross member is removed, it's about 20 pounds.

After some cleaning with alcohol, several coats of the same flat black paint was applied.

Did some final painting in the rear...

I had some POR-15 High Temp paint in manifold grey and decided to tackle this small segment forward the Borla muffler.

After some POR-15 Metal Prep, here it is after the first coat. I'll do a final coat tomorrow, 24 hours later...

I have Monday off work to take care of few things, including a local pick-up for the 4Runner. I'll be going to SCS Performance to get their F5 wheels in 17 x 8.5", quantity five.

Savage front and rear bumpers should arrive later this month. I hope to see a prototype of Roy's sliders next week, or the week after...

In the short term, I will get the stock rear wheels back on, the truck lowered, then look for rust to address in the front. Once done, I will install the Fumoto oil drain valve, then the RCI skids. When done, I should be receiving a pallet of bare metal from Roy...

 

[TonyB66]

I made it up to Livermore today, to SCS's warehouse to meet Vuth and check-out those F5 wheels in 17x8.5", 4.3" BS. I found the gunmetal damn nice-looking, but with the planned color scheme (black bumpers and sliders, possibly fenders and cladding), I went with the matte black, more like satin. No open box to share...

I also got from him 27 black chrome ET lugs (M12x1.5), with a spline key. I'll likely go with a lock per wheel later...

So, with new wheels and tires to be installed in the not-so-distant future, I noted the current speedometer reading at 2,500 RPM.

With Savage bumpers being built, I finally removed the stock one, and temporarily installed (2 bolts each side) the factory tow hitch so I have some protection, should I need to drive it, as I did today to get the wheels...

I imagine there is a market for the stock bumper and trailer hitch. I'll get them listed, along with the factory fuel tank skid...

With the bumper off, I'll get those SS rear body mounts installed sometime soon.

 

[TonyB66]

Looks like I need two posts due to the number of photos...

It has been a couple weeks, and I’ve made some progress. For beginners, the last photo provided in my previous post showed my stock rear bumper. Well, I sold it for $150. That prompted me to look at what I’ve sold so far. I’m approaching $1,000:

$400 - Leather Front Seats

$50 - Factory Stereo & Amp

$75 - Cargo Privacy Cover

$50 - Skid Plates (2)

$150 - Rear Bumper

Currently listed for sale…

$200 – OEM Gas Tank Skid

$50 – OEM Spare Tire Carrier

$50 – OEM Roof Rack Cross Members

$20 - Air Intake/Silencer Box

Later...

? – OEM Trailer Hitch

? – OEM Front Bumper

? - Moonroof (full assembly)

? - Wheels & Tires

I tried selling the running boards for about two months, to no avail. With a dump run deadline fast approaching, I discarded them.

On to more interesting stuff... I finally installed the Fumoto oil drain valve.

I didn’t change the oil though as I currently have less than 1,000 miles from the last oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic). So, I did a drain and refill to get this thing in place. The oil looked pretty good.

I ordered DuroBump front and rear bump stops, and also the front diff bracket bushings, which I received last week. Figured I’d install those before I do the skids. Removal was quite easy.

Getting the factory rubber out, not so much and certainly messy. I did my best to not burn the rubber too much. I didn’t want a mini tire fire as our CA air quality is already quite poor due to the wildfires. I was actually wearing a respirator several days recently.

Additional cleaning was needed and I found these two rotary wire brushes to work very well.

Next, the two had some time in the hot tub together.

Then, a romantic night by the fireplace.

 

[TonyB66]

Being very clean and dry, time for paint then pressed-in the new bushings. Used Dawn dish soap to help them slide better.

The two brackets were reinstalled, torqued to spec, a second time after a drive. Out came the blue fingernail polish again.

Time to install the RCI skids (front, transmission and transfer case). Although powder coated, I had added an additional coat of the same flat black.

Lined-up and ready to be secured. Total weight, with hardware, 108 pounds. The factory skids, including the transfer case shield, 19 pounds, so the net gain is 89 lbs.

The fitment was exceptional, with zero issues. I wish the front skid covered the radiator bottom corners though. The photo below does not show it. Maybe I can add something later…

Back to the rear for the Sonoran Steel rear poly body mounts. With the nuts removed, and the forward body mounts loosened, except the very front, I was able to raise the body easily with this set-up. Two small 2x4 segments on their sides (3.5” high) were slid into place as the jack set-up is clearly not ideal.

With the factory stuff removed, there was some minor rust seen.

After some cleaning, they got hit with some Rust Reformer.

After dry, the install went quickly.

Roy at Savage said that my front and rear bumpers should be done in about two weeks. While I wait for those, I might do the rear diff breather mod, but I might do that later. I’ll be experimenting with another set of LED headlights that will arrive this Friday. I’ll install the front and rear bump stops when I get those in about week.

As far as sliders go, while I like the new Savage ones, Roy said that they are 2+ months out. So, that will give me a chance to be a Stubbs customer (HD-SKO). I’ll likely call Richard tomorrow.

Once all of the heavy items are installed, I can then get to those Kings, the SPC arms, tires and wheels and finally an alignment.

I wish I had more time to wrench, but with the holidays upon us, as well as the wife’s b-day, our anniversary, the house remodel still not complete and two biz trips, it will continue to be a little here and a little there.

 

[cblock406]

I can’t see most of your pics for some reason. Any of the 4Runner how it is sitting now? Would love to see it. Looks like this is turning into one awesome build!

 

[phattyduck]

With the factory stuff removed, there was some minor rust seen.

The rust belt guys wouldn't even call that rust. :hello:

I'd personally probably just wipe it and hit it with some rustoleum... it'll last for another 20 years just fine.

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

I can’t see most of your pics for some reason. Any of the 4Runner how it is sitting now? Would love to see it. Looks like this is turning into one awesome build!

Christian, thanks for letting me know. I decided to log-out to see if that made a difference, I can still see the images, using Google Chrome. I then tried a different browser, Safari, and many photos are missing. Seems pretty bad on Explorer also. Damn. The iPad seems fine. Disappointing. I'll try to figure it out later...

 

[TonyB66]

The rust belt guys wouldn't even call that rust. :hello:

I'd personally probably just wipe it and hit it with some rustoleum... it'll last for another 20 years just fine.

-Charlie

That's basically what I did, wiped it down with a wet cloth, followed it with a little rubbing alcohol then sprayed it. All of that, took about 5 minutes, dry to touch 10...

I doubt rust will result in the demise of this truck with a life in CA, but I feel better taking such easy precautionary measures. Easy enough too.

 

[TonyB66]

For anyone who has time, is this post number 447 showing three images?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...build-thread-2000-limited-30.html#post3146684

 

[Dezert4Runner]

For anyone who has time, is this post number 447 showing three images?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...build-thread-2000-limited-30.html#post3146684

I can only see the first two

 

[phattyduck]

I haven't really seen anyone have good luck linking to photos hosted on google. I haven't been getting many of the photos to work for me here either (though that last post showed up fine?).

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

I can only see the first two

I haven't really seen anyone have good luck linking to photos hosted on google. I haven't been getting many of the photos to work for me here either (though that last post showed up fine?).

-Charlie

Thanks guys for helping me troubleshoot. Sounds like Dezert4Runner doesn't see the 3rd image in that post (#447), but Charlie sees all three?

I also can't see the 3rd image on other browsers, with Chrome, it works. I even deleted and re-added it, to no avail. That worked other times...

Heard from Richard at Stubbs and he has me on the build list! Should have siders by early Dec.

 

[theesotericone]

Heard from Richard at Stubbs and he has me on the build list! Should have siders by early Dec.

You won't regret going with Stubb's. They are about as bomber of a slider as you can get. Mine have been beat harder then most and I have nothing but praise for them.

 

[TonyB66]

You won't regret going with Stubb's. They are about as bomber of a slider as you can get. Mine have been beat harder then most and I have nothing but praise for them.

Matt, I literally just got off the phone with him. An email alert came-in with your post above and I read it to him. He was happy that you like them and appreciative of your support. We spoke, my wife just yelled at me, for 2+ hours! LOL. The first 45 minutes or so, about investments, stocks, options, etc. We concluded talking about a welder I'm looking to purchase, and he of course had plenty of input. Enjoyed our conversation. Damn nice guy.

We did briefly talk about his sliders of course. He makes different iterations for the various 3rd gen trims. Apparently there will be no need to do any cutting of the fender flares for fitment. He makes them super strong of course, but not so much that the frame would then be the weak point, and receive damage. The legs, his sliders have four each, are the designed deflection points. He's generally not big on scab plate gussets, especially in particular orientations, 12 and 6 o'clock as I recall.

Sliders should be done in about two weeks. If we weren't 6 hours apart, I'd drive to get the sliders and even have him weld them up.

 

[TonyB66]

Lighting-wise, I converted to LED on the exterior, minus the headlight. I tried a set a couple months back and while I was hoping to see an objective bump in output (light meter app), I saw a decrease. Since it was an Amazon purchase, it was simple return/refund.

I purchased these earlier in the week for about 30 bucks:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRG4NSH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With my phone, I was about 4’ in front of each of the lights (chalk mark on garage floor).

With the halogen bulbs I got a max of 1461 lux, with most measurements (moving the phone around) from 800 - 1,200.

With the LEDs, I got a high of 3391 lux, with most measurements from 2300 – 3000

Oh, with the high beams on, the indicator works:

Pleasantly surprised so far. After dark I’ll go for a spin…

 

[T4topher]

Lighting-wise, I converted to LED on the exterior, minus the headlight. I tried a set a couple months back and while I was hoping to see an objective bump in output (light meter app), I saw a decrease. Since it was an Amazon purchase, it was simple return/refund.

I purchased these earlier in the week for about 30 bucks:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRG4NSH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With my phone, I was about 4’ in front of each of the lights (chalk mark on garage floor).

With the halogen bulbs I got a max of 1461 lux, with most measurements (moving the phone around) from 800 - 1,200.

With the LEDs, I got a high of 3391 lux, with most measurements from 2300 – 3000

Oh, with the high beams on:

Pleasantly surprised so far. After dark I’ll go for a spin…

I can’t see your pictures.. I use postimages.org and resize to 640x480 (for message boards) then you copy the direct link and put that link between

I got very similar led headlights and was really happy with the purchase.. hid retrofits are nice but you can’t beat the leds for 30-40$.. did you have to trim or change the dust boots?

These are the ones I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHD78DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HK0.BbRZSAZ2P

 

[TonyB66]

I can’t see your pictures.. I use postimages.org and resize to 640x480 (for message boards) then you copy the direct link and put that link between

I got very similar led headlights and was really happy with the purchase.. hid retrofits are nice but you can’t beat the leds for 30-40$.. did you have to trim or change your dust boot?

These are the ones I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHD78DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HK0.BbRZSAZ2P

Damn, I'm really bummed that the pictures are not showing-up for some people. Within the post you quoted I see the photos...

I think you are onto something with the size though. I'll try something soon.

I'd prefer to not have to hack-up the dust boots. For now they are off. I think I can get them to fit, but not sure. That all said, I'm currently experimenting with HIKARI Ultra LED bulbs. I read so many good things about the Philips LUMILEDS that when these were discounted to 70 bucks, I decided to try them... I'll do some more photos, which I guess you might not see...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077B3SNJR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The lux readings were generally somewhat better than the other LED bulbs (Aukee H4), except there was one sweet spot where Aukee hit a slightly higher max. The pattern looks to be much better with these Hikari ones, and the cut-off much more distinctive. A shot I took on the way home from Napa last night (got some brake fluid). In this photo, I'm about 10-15' behind that car...

Since I'm posting, I received the front and rear bump stops.

I had previously loosened the OEM bump stops, so this install was very quick.

I'll do the rears later when I do suspension....

 

[sugjavier]

Couldn't you just upload it using the "attachment"
That way it loads the images/pics from THIS site's library vs other sites (look at what happened to photobucket)

Then right click the attachment (pic) > Open in new tab > copy the link
Put that link inside "Insert Image" so then you can insert the pic in between words VS just pics attached in the bottom of your message.

Then just remove the attachment after you've added the links under "insert image". I've tested it and the links will still work!

I used this pic as an example to show you..hope it helps as I really want to see your pics.

Lol I think you were on the LED headlight thread that started a couple of months ago? I'm still using that, but if you find a really good one then I'll just change it up again

 

[TonyB66]

Couldn't you just upload it using the "attachment"
That way it loads the images/pics from THIS site's library vs other sites (look at what happened to photobucket)

Then right click the attachment (pic) > Open in new tab > copy the link
Put that link inside "Insert Image" so then you can insert the pic in between words VS just pics attached in the bottom of your message.

Then just remove the attachment after you've added the links under "insert image". I've tested it and the links will still work!

I used this pic as an example to show you..hope it helps as I really want to see your pics.

Lol I think you were on the LED headlight thread that started a couple of months ago? I'm still using that, but if you find a really good one then I'll just change it up again

Thanks for chiming-in sugjavier.

That's how I did my attachments when I began this thread:

1. Upload to here, to an album then
2. attach to a post...

A few pages back I hit the limit and began using Google photos.

FWIW, I don't see any pics in your post. Strange.

So, you were not able to see any of the four pics in my post above, #497?

Yes, I was in that LED headlight bulb thread a couple months back. As you might recall, I tested those against my then current halogens, and those LEDs actually produced less light. I've been using the same light meter app since, and the next two bulbs produced quite a bit more...