Torquing suspension components: with or without load "curb weight"

fourfive

Senior Member
I've heard it's recommended to torque suspension components to factory specs once the vehicle is lowered back on the ground with "curb weight" so the suspension components are loaded. Apparently, if the suspension components are not at curb weight when torquing the bolts, the torque specs will not be accurate resulting in binding, premature wear etc.

Does this also apply to lower ball joints, outer tie roads, UCA, steering components, etc?
 
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Here's a better thing to look at. Are you able to get a torque wrench to every bolt with the tires on and the vehicle on the ground? If yes then torque it that way. If not then don't worry about it.
 
Here's a better thing to look at. Are you able to get a torque wrench to every bolt with the tires on and the vehicle on the ground? If yes then torque it that way. If not then don't worry about it.

I checked over the weekend & I was able to reach my coilovers, rear shocks, & sway bar components with my torque wrench with tires on and truck on the ground. So i lightly loosened those bolts and retorqued them. Didn't get a chance to see if I could reach the LBJ, OTR & UCA. It may be in my head but the handling when I drove to work this morning did seem better & more stabile.
 
I always throw a jack under the LCA and raise it to simulate being loaded without a wheel on and the truck on the ground. Then you have room and torque the suspension as it will be under usage.
 
Torque the UCA when weight is on it, because the bolt compresses the bushing down so it'd be better if it was at ride height--ultimately I doubt it matters. Same goes for the LCA bolts. Nothing else actually moves that has to be torqued. The LBJ bolts don't rotate, the tie rod bolts don't rotate, etc. so it doesn't matter. At the end of the day I doubt it makes any considerable difference.

And I can't believe some of the stuff you actually use a torque wrench for, like sway bar links? To each their own, the only thing I actually torque to spec are the LBJ bolts.
 
If for no other reason, in some instances putting weight on the suspension takes some stress off the fastener being torqued. Like the LBJ castle nut. That is negligible though if you end up turning it another 10* to get the pin through though lol.

To each their own. I've built 3 engines from a bare block using a $15 harbor freight torque wrench that's been dropped more time's then I can remember and they all stayed together. So what the hell do I know? It's probably not even torqued to what I think it is :dancin:
 
Appreciate the feedback. Ive started torquing everything i could reach and wanted to do it as "correctly" as possible bc ive learned my lesson from breaking bolts from what i thought was light pressure and wanted to avoid those headaches.

Who knows how accurate my hf & amazon torque wrenches are but all three of my cheap torque wrenches are within a few ft/lbs of each other. Very possible that all 3 are equally inaccurate but im ok with the ballpark approximation my torque wrenches give me.
 
I torqued my front and rear UCAs, LCAs, struts and shocks while on the ground. I have the SS 1.2 lift and did this per Steve's instructions. The only thing I didn't torque to spec while on the ground was the adjustable panhard bar since they don't have static bushings.
 

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