Towing experiences with your 5th Generation
- Thread starter dsir56
- Start date
Icon 2" lift springs in the back, have an anti sway hitch
To be honest I have a tuned cummins 1 ton so prefer to use that for towing any distance
mgosts
New member
I have the rpod 179. Ome 2895e springs in back. Got a little squat. Not sure if im gonna add bags, get uprated rear springs, or just live with a little squat.
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Riverfisher
New member
Week three on my 4R and today I noticed how far away the trailer light plug is located from the receiver (I assuming the design is to protect it when off road). Neither the ATV trailer nor the driftboat trailer wiring will reach. One is a flat four and the other is a seven blade type connector. How have you solved this problem; extensions, rewire trailers with longer plugs? I found a cheap extension for the 4 flat on etrailer.com but the seven blade is proving to be more of a challenge. I'm leaning toward extensions just in case I end up towing someone else's outfit for some reason.
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Sig_Fan_55
New member
Here is a 7 pin extension, pretty long for what we need but you can always wrap or zip tie the excess.
Conntek 7-Pin 5Th Wheel Trailer Extension Cord (4-Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057KB0J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q5uizbA78999W
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Sig_Fan_55
New member
Question for those running brake controllers, do your displays light up and show output with no trailer connected. Brake controllers in my previous vehicles would not show anything on the display without a trailer but for some reason my Curt Triflex is showing it, relays are not clicking unless a trailer is hooked up but the display every time I brake is weird. Does yours light up without a trailer also and what model/brand are you running?
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Riverfisher
New member
Thanks! I was hoping to avoid the bulk but this is all that I've been able to find as well. Looks like I'll be employing the Handyman's Super Secret weapon, zip ties...
chrisbourke
New member
M105A3 behind a 16' T4R TRD
Hey folks,
Wondering if y'all have any thoughts about trailering an M105A3 military trailer behind a '16 TRD. It's a 2700lb. trailer and I don't plan on putting more than 1000lb's of gear in it at any point, so I think I'd be safe on the towing limit, but I'm concerned about it only having a hydraulic surge brake if I were to use it for overlanding or high speed highway traveling.
A welder has provided a quote to adjust the towing point to suit the 4runner tow point and to accommodate the swing of the rear gate.
What are your thoughts?
Here's a link with some info on another listing of the same trailer model.
Best,
Chris
Hey folks,
Wondering if y'all have any thoughts about trailering an M105A3 military trailer behind a '16 TRD. It's a 2700lb. trailer and I don't plan on putting more than 1000lb's of gear in it at any point, so I think I'd be safe on the towing limit, but I'm concerned about it only having a hydraulic surge brake if I were to use it for overlanding or high speed highway traveling.
A welder has provided a quote to adjust the towing point to suit the 4runner tow point and to accommodate the swing of the rear gate.
What are your thoughts?
Here's a link with some info on another listing of the same trailer model.
Best,
Chris
007Tacoma
New member
Yes, but my Prodigy has a message on the screen saying that there is no trailer attached.
007Tacoma
New member
Several FJ guys are doing exactly this, and I am looking to do the same thing next year. The weight isn't really a problem, but the tailgate clearance is. The surge brakes are still doable, but I am looking into the idea of refitting one with electronic brakes...
That's as far as I have gotten. If you don't mind me asking: how much did you pay for the M105A3?
Cheers!
Jetboy
New member
Unless you pick up the trailer REALLY cheap - I'd probably opt for a different trailer. They're just not a great trailer for what you're wanting to do.
To give you an idea (of course I have metal fab equipment) - but I built this trailer for about $650 in materials. You can buy small utility trailer $850-1000, but not usually with a tube frame and the ability to remove the sides that I wanted. And it's very easy and cheap to swap out the hub assemblies for 6 lug hubs. Then you'll want to buy a 1.5-2" set of hub spacers and you can run Toyota OEM wheels that match your 4runner. And you can share all your wheels/tires/spares around as needed. You want the spacers because OEM Toyota wheels have a lot more back spacing than trailer wheels, so they need a spacer to align anyway. Plus the spacer will allow you to then use the appropriate 12mm studs and OEM Toyota lugnuts.
The result is that you have a trailer with (in my case at least) a perfectly matched track width, can use OEM tires/wheels, is way lighter, and has easy to find and easy to replace hubs/bearings, etc. so if you do break something in the field, at least you can get parts. I think you'd be throwing money away trying to use one of those trailers when you can spend around the same amount to have a much better trailer for this purpose.
I have also built a 3rd similar trailer a few years ago with 36" tall steel sides and a side hinge 4x8 lid that has a very wide rack that is built custom for my father in law to use for his white water raft. It would also be an option for an easy offroad trailer. I could build you one with a full bed and rack for $1500-2000 with some profit built in - and I'm not in the business, so you should be able to find a fab shop that can knock one out pretty quick. Mine is built in light gauge 2x3 .125 tubing with 1.5" tubing for the frame rails that are removable. (This isn't intended as an offer mostly just a price reference for what it should cost. Find my 5 buyers and I'd consider it...) The entire trailer weighs about 500lbs and easily carries 3500lbs of weight. It would be easy to build with a welded in bed with sheet metal and a roof rack over top or whatever configuration you want. And you can have it custom built to do just what you really want it to do.
Good luck!
(I use this one as a utility trailer and I went with 5x4.5 hubs - but at the trailer supply store when you buy it you can choose any lug pattern you wish for the same price. The second trailer is the frame under my teardrop camper. On that I used a 6 lug hub as described and use FJ Cruiser wheels - and it's a low rider on purpose for a camper frame. The point is mostly that you could have a small offroad trailer built from scratch pretty cheaply if you keep it a basic design and it would work better than trying to modify a big heavy used military trailer).
To give you an idea (of course I have metal fab equipment) - but I built this trailer for about $650 in materials. You can buy small utility trailer $850-1000, but not usually with a tube frame and the ability to remove the sides that I wanted. And it's very easy and cheap to swap out the hub assemblies for 6 lug hubs. Then you'll want to buy a 1.5-2" set of hub spacers and you can run Toyota OEM wheels that match your 4runner. And you can share all your wheels/tires/spares around as needed. You want the spacers because OEM Toyota wheels have a lot more back spacing than trailer wheels, so they need a spacer to align anyway. Plus the spacer will allow you to then use the appropriate 12mm studs and OEM Toyota lugnuts.
The result is that you have a trailer with (in my case at least) a perfectly matched track width, can use OEM tires/wheels, is way lighter, and has easy to find and easy to replace hubs/bearings, etc. so if you do break something in the field, at least you can get parts. I think you'd be throwing money away trying to use one of those trailers when you can spend around the same amount to have a much better trailer for this purpose.
I have also built a 3rd similar trailer a few years ago with 36" tall steel sides and a side hinge 4x8 lid that has a very wide rack that is built custom for my father in law to use for his white water raft. It would also be an option for an easy offroad trailer. I could build you one with a full bed and rack for $1500-2000 with some profit built in - and I'm not in the business, so you should be able to find a fab shop that can knock one out pretty quick. Mine is built in light gauge 2x3 .125 tubing with 1.5" tubing for the frame rails that are removable. (This isn't intended as an offer mostly just a price reference for what it should cost. Find my 5 buyers and I'd consider it...) The entire trailer weighs about 500lbs and easily carries 3500lbs of weight. It would be easy to build with a welded in bed with sheet metal and a roof rack over top or whatever configuration you want. And you can have it custom built to do just what you really want it to do.
Good luck!
(I use this one as a utility trailer and I went with 5x4.5 hubs - but at the trailer supply store when you buy it you can choose any lug pattern you wish for the same price. The second trailer is the frame under my teardrop camper. On that I used a 6 lug hub as described and use FJ Cruiser wheels - and it's a low rider on purpose for a camper frame. The point is mostly that you could have a small offroad trailer built from scratch pretty cheaply if you keep it a basic design and it would work better than trying to modify a big heavy used military trailer).
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chrisbourke
New member
Thanks for the response! The brakes are my main concern, not sure if it's worth it after the cost of retrofitting it with electronic brakes, but I haven't gotten a quote for that! I've got a buddy who is willing to sell it to me for $1500. Not anything too special, just about what he paid for it.
Best,
Chris
chrisbourke
New member
Man, so many times I wish I knew how to weld.
Those trailers look great! The price of the 105MA3 is $1500, so not a steal by any means.
It's tempting to just have a huge trailer that I don't have to worry about, but I have a feeling it'd kill MPG & by the time I had the tongue refitted to handle the gate swing & tow height ($650), I could have spent $2150 on a new cargo trailer...the military rigs just look so cool...
^^^ That is what I am using. Planned to have to fab a mount for it, but found I could just wrap it around my hitch and remove it when not in use. Doesn't get any easier or cheaper than that!
Just a couple power lights and a n.c. (no connection) if I manually apply the brake lever. Nothing weird. Prodigy P2 with Prodigy harness.
Camping trailer
Hi guys!
From my experience in towing with my TE, its been great so far. Changed my engine oil at 6000K and my transmission oil each year just to make sure it goes well.
At 4200 lbs of weight, you kinda feel it on heavy hills.:lookout:
But goes very well in straight line!
Enjoy your summer guys!
Hi guys!
From my experience in towing with my TE, its been great so far. Changed my engine oil at 6000K and my transmission oil each year just to make sure it goes well.
At 4200 lbs of weight, you kinda feel it on heavy hills.:lookout:
But goes very well in straight line!
Enjoy your summer guys!
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007Tacoma
New member
That's a decent price, but you definitely want to factor in all the modifications that you will have to do to it. You may be better off buying and expo trailer or something of that kind after you add it all up.
My hope is to get one of those and use it just as a trailer for several months while I slowly save up to upgrade it. I also would be doing all the work myself. So, the money would be put into parts only.
007Tacoma
New member
...guess I should have read the rest of the thread before responding...
:lookout:
^^^ Everything he said! LOL
:lookout:
^^^ Everything he said! LOL
Riverfisher
New member
^^^ That is what I am using. Planned to have to fab a mount for it, but found I could just wrap it around my hitch and remove it when not in use. Doesn't get any easier or cheaper than that!
Thanks!
I bought an extension for the 4flat that I'll try for the first time tomorrow on the ski boat. I'll follow your lead on the 7pin for my other towing needs.
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I am in a similar situation as you. Airbags helped a lot with the sag and handling.Just got my 4Runner in January so this will be it's first season towing the boat. 22ft Mako cuddy cabin with a 250hp engine and a full 110gal fuel tank. Sitting around 4,800lbs (I think). It's not a very long drive to the boat ramp, maybe 3 miles through town. Im just anxious to see how it does on the boat ramp.
Considering airbags to level out the ride. Thoughts?
The ride without a trailer is like 15% rougher even with minimum psi.
Unlike some I could not get the bags installed by sliding them into the spring. Had to get them installed professionally.
Curious to hear more on your experience towing this type of load as I am in a similar situation as far as weight goes with a 22 pontoon.
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