Toyota 4runner Sealed Transmission DIY Flush
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wheese88
New member
Women!
Okay so the reason for this post is because my "lovely" fianc-eh wants me to get input from experienced gentleman as yourselfs. We went to toyota today to get some washers for the Diff and the transmission and to ask how much for a case of WS. Well one older gentleman that was not even talking to me gets up and gets all uppidy telling me that its sealed for a reason, toyota doesn't recommend servicing it, and theres no possible way for me to be able to do it properly because it has to be "gravity fed". So now she has it in her head that I'm going to mess it up by following the DIY. So she would like to have yall input on the subject. Thanks for the help guys.
My lesson learned is never bring the "better" half to toyota.
Okay so the reason for this post is because my "lovely" fianc-eh wants me to get input from experienced gentleman as yourselfs. We went to toyota today to get some washers for the Diff and the transmission and to ask how much for a case of WS. Well one older gentleman that was not even talking to me gets up and gets all uppidy telling me that its sealed for a reason, toyota doesn't recommend servicing it, and theres no possible way for me to be able to do it properly because it has to be "gravity fed". So now she has it in her head that I'm going to mess it up by following the DIY. So she would like to have yall input on the subject. Thanks for the help guys.
My lesson learned is never bring the "better" half to toyota.
JB.
New member
For me, it would depend on mileage and usage.
I'm pretty big on the sanctity and purity of the factory fill, but went ahead and did mine shortly after 100k (3 drains and fills now) thinking that with that mileage the risk equation had probably shifted.
That said, it's not hard. If you feel it's needed, go ahead and do it.
If entering check temp mode gives you any problem, you might find the thread below handy.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...r-ways-check-ws-transmission-fluid-level.html
I'd like to do this- but wondering- isn't their a pump in the transmission on the return end that would be running dry during this procedure? Couldn't you get an equal hose and pump the new fluid in through the return line just as quick using the engine at the same time?
Thanks
ben550
New member
I have thought about that option but don't know if it will work. Did you ever try it? Its a pain crawling in under the truck and using a manual pump to fill every 2-3 quarts... Always good to find a better way.
Last edited:
sandy_1983
New member
Flush at 165k miles
Hi guys. I just bought my truck with 165k miles. Its an 06 SR5 rwd. It seems to jump into gear when i put it on Drive. Do yoi think its too late to change the fluid. Apart from the little jump when i put it in Drive, it seems to be running perfectly fine. Just that its not been done for the last165k miles really bothers me. I plan to drop the pan and replace the screen and gasket and perform a complete drain via the cooler lines with Valvoline maxlife ATF. What do yiu guys recommend. I've already changed the motor oil and differential oil.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hi guys. I just bought my truck with 165k miles. Its an 06 SR5 rwd. It seems to jump into gear when i put it on Drive. Do yoi think its too late to change the fluid. Apart from the little jump when i put it in Drive, it seems to be running perfectly fine. Just that its not been done for the last165k miles really bothers me. I plan to drop the pan and replace the screen and gasket and perform a complete drain via the cooler lines with Valvoline maxlife ATF. What do yiu guys recommend. I've already changed the motor oil and differential oil.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
ZebRuaj
New member
I did a D/F with Maxlife on mine when I got it at 142k. Didn't want to risky having a transmission as a paperweight. I have since gotten 2 more D/F's into it with no problems to report.
00328
Senior Member
I have heard that when your tranny has a ton of miles on it doing a complete fluid flush drastically changes the environment in the trans and can cause problems.
What I have done and works well for me is simply drain the tranny and measure how much comes out and put that much new back in. Drive for a couple weeks and repeat. Repeat how ever amount of times it takes for the fluid to look nice and red. May take more than a few times.
Make sure you loosen or remove the fill plug before draining!
What I have done and works well for me is simply drain the tranny and measure how much comes out and put that much new back in. Drive for a couple weeks and repeat. Repeat how ever amount of times it takes for the fluid to look nice and red. May take more than a few times.
Make sure you loosen or remove the fill plug before draining!
chewyspark47
New member
a drain and fill wouldnt be considered a complete fluid flush, right? i just bought a 2007 t4r v8 that slighty jumped into reverse so im debating wether i should flush or just drain fill method
ZebRuaj
New member
Correct. D/F gets about 1/3 of the fluid out each time. There's a DIY way to do a full "flush" thru removing the tranny cooler line, or pay the shop to do it with a machine.
There are a couple schools of thought for and against a flush on a old/high mileage tranny, just like which ATF to use.
D/F seems to be the safer route if in doubt.
waypoint
Member
I spent Labor Day weekend flushing the trans on my '07 4Runner at 164K miles, factory fluid came out brown. I basically followed the DIY procedure, except I just opened the cooler inlet line at the top of the radiator. Pumped nearly 2 quarts through the radiator cooler circuit until new fluid was draining from the pan, then installed the pan drain plug and refilled it with 3.5 quarts of WS (same volume as initially drained). I then ran the engine to pump out 2 quarts at a time, pumping in 2 new quarts, and repeating until new fluid was pumping out the trans cooler line.
And then I goofed. I set the fluid level at the overfill plug with the engine off, not running. Fortunately another member here caught the error when I posted, and I repeated the temp check finding it nearly 1.5 quarts low.
In terms of risk given the age of the factory fluid, the documentation I'd found a few years ago stated that if the worn friction materials in the fluid are keeping the trans operating then it's on borrowed time...a fluid change only exposes the inevitable problem.
I made a point of taking it very easy on the trans for the first few cycles, staying on flat ground for the initial test drive and letting the trans gently run thru the gears to let new fluid circulate through the various circuits and then soak into the clutch packs overnight before putting the truck back into normal use.
And then I goofed. I set the fluid level at the overfill plug with the engine off, not running. Fortunately another member here caught the error when I posted, and I repeated the temp check finding it nearly 1.5 quarts low.
In terms of risk given the age of the factory fluid, the documentation I'd found a few years ago stated that if the worn friction materials in the fluid are keeping the trans operating then it's on borrowed time...a fluid change only exposes the inevitable problem.
I made a point of taking it very easy on the trans for the first few cycles, staying on flat ground for the initial test drive and letting the trans gently run thru the gears to let new fluid circulate through the various circuits and then soak into the clutch packs overnight before putting the truck back into normal use.
Supersonic
New member
Hi, new here but here's how I did mine with removing the pan and a semi-flush-fill which was basically a drain and fill; after reinstalling the pan and filling with fluid and running the engine for 2 minutes while I shifted gears. I going to copy/paste from posting in similar forum.
No pump necessary, you can gravity fill from the side or under the hood, your just going to clip the fill hose in a couple of places and make sure it stays in place before you start pouring fluid.
Drain Plug--Also recommend drain plug torque at about 11 or 12 ft lbs, but really get a inch pound torque wrench and 130 inch lbs. I did 140 inch pounds and that seemed like I was pushing it. If one must be on the low side if using the specs, though I read of many sad stripped drain plugs issues.
This is easy job for the v6 because you don't have the exhaust under the pan. Reading through all my post on this may be best, as I latter had time to digest my experience.
From other forum (2005 4Runner 4.0 with 4wd). I'm hungry, but now have what seems to be a happy transmission. It'll be in 2 post so it's easier to follow.
Just starting, going to paste these specs from related forums;
A750E Auto Trans.
Transmission Fill
Repair Fill Amount
Transmission pan and drain plug
removal 1.3 L (1.37 US qts, 1.14 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Torque converter removal 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
Entire transmission assembly 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
- Overflow plug torque = 15 ft/lbs
- Fill plug torque = 29 ft/lbs
- Drain plug torque = 15 - 20 ft/lbs
. Using Valvoline Max, seems the multi-viscosity is the issue and Valvoline has that covered "Engineered with a unique blend of viscosity modifiers and base oils to provide better oil flow at low temperatures and greater film protection at higher temperatures".
First remove fill plug, done. (To mention my fill plan, got a 1/4 inch inner diameter plastic plumbing tube and a Watts part # Pl230 Nylon hose barb elbow with small funnels at Menard's for about $7. Of course elbow should go in fill plug hole while routing tube to funnel tacked at right front wheel well, either going to plastic clamp it to somewhere on the vehicle there, or bungee strap it to a small step ladder there.)
Did remove drain plug, as much as I didn't want to, frame cross member would get soaked otherwise just removing the pan. On the 2005 v6 the exhaust is not under the pan.
Should mention I think this spec closely resembles pan gasket and filter change;
Transmission valve body removal - 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
But, also find it here
Pure FJ Cruiser Accessories, Parts and Accessories for your Toyota FJ Cruiser
Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts)
So I'm guessing to fill between 4.12 US qts and 4.54 US qts, And I got out about 4.2 qts not including residual in the drain pan and filter.
Gravity flow worked well, recommend getting a bigger elbow and tube, mine was 1/4 inner diameter coupled to a 3/8 tube attached to a funnel, could be run through the engine compartment but my splash shield is missing behind the right front tire, so I attached the funnel to a step ladder and filled from there; worked fine except slow with the 1/4 inch tube.
Next the drain plug torque is real important, seems there has been many stripped from other forums I've read, I am only going to 13 ft lbs and that in inch pounds is 156 in lbs. Yes, do get an inch pound torque wrench.
Next, I did a drain and fill after running the engine for 2 minutes and going shifting the gears 4 times. More dirty fluid came out, and now I just have to go fill it with about the 3 quarts for drain and fill.
No pump necessary, you can gravity fill from the side or under the hood, your just going to clip the fill hose in a couple of places and make sure it stays in place before you start pouring fluid.
Drain Plug--Also recommend drain plug torque at about 11 or 12 ft lbs, but really get a inch pound torque wrench and 130 inch lbs. I did 140 inch pounds and that seemed like I was pushing it. If one must be on the low side if using the specs, though I read of many sad stripped drain plugs issues.
This is easy job for the v6 because you don't have the exhaust under the pan. Reading through all my post on this may be best, as I latter had time to digest my experience.
From other forum (2005 4Runner 4.0 with 4wd). I'm hungry, but now have what seems to be a happy transmission. It'll be in 2 post so it's easier to follow.
Just starting, going to paste these specs from related forums;
A750E Auto Trans.
Transmission Fill
Repair Fill Amount
Transmission pan and drain plug
removal 1.3 L (1.37 US qts, 1.14 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Torque converter removal 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
Entire transmission assembly 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
- Overflow plug torque = 15 ft/lbs
- Fill plug torque = 29 ft/lbs
- Drain plug torque = 15 - 20 ft/lbs
. Using Valvoline Max, seems the multi-viscosity is the issue and Valvoline has that covered "Engineered with a unique blend of viscosity modifiers and base oils to provide better oil flow at low temperatures and greater film protection at higher temperatures".
First remove fill plug, done. (To mention my fill plan, got a 1/4 inch inner diameter plastic plumbing tube and a Watts part # Pl230 Nylon hose barb elbow with small funnels at Menard's for about $7. Of course elbow should go in fill plug hole while routing tube to funnel tacked at right front wheel well, either going to plastic clamp it to somewhere on the vehicle there, or bungee strap it to a small step ladder there.)
Did remove drain plug, as much as I didn't want to, frame cross member would get soaked otherwise just removing the pan. On the 2005 v6 the exhaust is not under the pan.
Should mention I think this spec closely resembles pan gasket and filter change;
Transmission valve body removal - 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
But, also find it here
Pure FJ Cruiser Accessories, Parts and Accessories for your Toyota FJ Cruiser
Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts)
So I'm guessing to fill between 4.12 US qts and 4.54 US qts, And I got out about 4.2 qts not including residual in the drain pan and filter.
Gravity flow worked well, recommend getting a bigger elbow and tube, mine was 1/4 inner diameter coupled to a 3/8 tube attached to a funnel, could be run through the engine compartment but my splash shield is missing behind the right front tire, so I attached the funnel to a step ladder and filled from there; worked fine except slow with the 1/4 inch tube.
Next the drain plug torque is real important, seems there has been many stripped from other forums I've read, I am only going to 13 ft lbs and that in inch pounds is 156 in lbs. Yes, do get an inch pound torque wrench.
Next, I did a drain and fill after running the engine for 2 minutes and going shifting the gears 4 times. More dirty fluid came out, and now I just have to go fill it with about the 3 quarts for drain and fill.
Supersonic
New member
Yep, drain and fill was just a little over 3 quarts, just finished the extra drain and fill, and am satisfied the 2 minutes and 4 shifts through the gears did remove more dirty fluid sufficient enough to make it worthwhile.
Drain plug torque, I just went to 140 inch pounds which equals about 12 ft lbs, seemed that may have been even pushing it, but I don't have any leaks and it's tight.
Another thing, though I may have complained about the 1/4 inch fill tube, maybe filling slower also allowed that it didn't drip while I was filling, so that may be good enough, your results may vary.
The original pan gasket was cork, so now I got the rubber one from the WIX filter kit #58136 at O'Reilly, Auto Zone gave me the Duralast kit TF348, but it turned out to be the wrong filter.
Overall, easy job, to summarize,
remove 24mm fill plug first, then 14mm drain plug,
drain fluid,
reinstall plug,
remove 20 12mm pan bolts and remove pan knowing there is still about a quart of fluid in the pan.
Then 4 14mm bolts on the filter, change out for new filter.
Clean the pan and magnets, I only had quick start fluid handy, seems to have work fine, so I let them dry then wiped again with dry cloth.
Reinstall pan, rubber gasket holds 20 bolts in place while you install.
Route fill tube with elbow to the front either out the wheel well or through to engine compartment, fill approximately 4.2 to 4.3 quarts of fluid.
My semi-flush drain and fill;
let idle for 2 minutes shifting through all the gears 4 times
Drain and fill.
Where I estimated 2 minutes was from the examples that used the transmission fluid cooling lines said about 7 seconds would produce about a quart, well I just put in 4.3 quarts and it would be circulated up from the pan, but not all would be fresh fluid at some point. So 2 minutes of circulation was just a guess, your results may vary.
NowI must go put on the fill plug and make a trip to Auto Zone to get a refund. I don't think it was the clerks fault, I think it is in their system wrong;
IT FITS. This product is a fit for your: 2005 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD 4.0L FI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: TF348
Alternate Part Number: TF348
Drain plug torque, I just went to 140 inch pounds which equals about 12 ft lbs, seemed that may have been even pushing it, but I don't have any leaks and it's tight.
Another thing, though I may have complained about the 1/4 inch fill tube, maybe filling slower also allowed that it didn't drip while I was filling, so that may be good enough, your results may vary.
The original pan gasket was cork, so now I got the rubber one from the WIX filter kit #58136 at O'Reilly, Auto Zone gave me the Duralast kit TF348, but it turned out to be the wrong filter.
Overall, easy job, to summarize,
remove 24mm fill plug first, then 14mm drain plug,
drain fluid,
reinstall plug,
remove 20 12mm pan bolts and remove pan knowing there is still about a quart of fluid in the pan.
Then 4 14mm bolts on the filter, change out for new filter.
Clean the pan and magnets, I only had quick start fluid handy, seems to have work fine, so I let them dry then wiped again with dry cloth.
Reinstall pan, rubber gasket holds 20 bolts in place while you install.
Route fill tube with elbow to the front either out the wheel well or through to engine compartment, fill approximately 4.2 to 4.3 quarts of fluid.
My semi-flush drain and fill;
let idle for 2 minutes shifting through all the gears 4 times
Drain and fill.
Where I estimated 2 minutes was from the examples that used the transmission fluid cooling lines said about 7 seconds would produce about a quart, well I just put in 4.3 quarts and it would be circulated up from the pan, but not all would be fresh fluid at some point. So 2 minutes of circulation was just a guess, your results may vary.
NowI must go put on the fill plug and make a trip to Auto Zone to get a refund. I don't think it was the clerks fault, I think it is in their system wrong;
IT FITS. This product is a fit for your: 2005 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD 4.0L FI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: TF348
Alternate Part Number: TF348
Supersonic
New member
Today I don't think I needed the elbow, I should have just put the fill tube in, tacked with a plastic clamp at the exhaust shield in 2 places to keep it in place. That's what I was doing, just had to check to see it was in place before poring the fluid anyhow.
To further explain the clamp, just using a plastic clamp around the tube to hold it in place and clipping it on the exhaust shield was handy and didn't hurt it.
I was thinking the elbow would make sure it drained down, but it would have no where else to go as long as the tube is in the fill hole at least past the threads. Something to know for next time, and the bigger tube 3/8 or probbably even 1/2 inch inner diameter would have been fine.
As before, you result may vary but given you have around 4 feet of tube, you can easily gravity fill this transmission.
And just to mention the heat, it is never hot because I always let the fluid drip for a long time duration. There's no reason to burn yourself on the exhaust. It's mid 70 degrees here, and I only ran the vehicle long enough to put it up on the ramps, then 2 minutes for the semi-flush-drain and fill, it ran for 2 minutes, but I let it drain for an hour. There was no drive down the block to get it up to operational temperature, in fact, I didn't do that to least disturb the dirt that could be settled in the pan.
Rhino Ramps--I got the big ones (16,000 lbs) because they're wider and it's quick, I just push the vehicle back the little it will move in park to wedge the ramp under the tire at the beginning of the ramp and they almost never move, (yes I grew up in the steel ramp era...)though wedging them may work on steel ramp too.
And while I am here, might just want to mention the information of why it is important to change the filter, from;
WIX Filters - Heavy Duty Transmission Filters - Products Information
Contaminants can enter your transmission fluid system in the manufacturing process. They can also enter the transmission through the vent, or through the dipstick and fill tube during fluid level checking/filling. Most of the time, however, contaminants are the result of normal wear. These contaminants consist of metal chips and flakes from gears and bushings and fine fibrous material from clutch facings.
WIX transmission filters protect transmissions against contaminants in the transmission fluid system. Proper filtration helps improve transmission life by minimizing wear and preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. In the event of a part failure, the filter also guards against secondary damage to other parts and thus helps to minimize repair costs.
To further explain the clamp, just using a plastic clamp around the tube to hold it in place and clipping it on the exhaust shield was handy and didn't hurt it.
I was thinking the elbow would make sure it drained down, but it would have no where else to go as long as the tube is in the fill hole at least past the threads. Something to know for next time, and the bigger tube 3/8 or probbably even 1/2 inch inner diameter would have been fine.
As before, you result may vary but given you have around 4 feet of tube, you can easily gravity fill this transmission.
And just to mention the heat, it is never hot because I always let the fluid drip for a long time duration. There's no reason to burn yourself on the exhaust. It's mid 70 degrees here, and I only ran the vehicle long enough to put it up on the ramps, then 2 minutes for the semi-flush-drain and fill, it ran for 2 minutes, but I let it drain for an hour. There was no drive down the block to get it up to operational temperature, in fact, I didn't do that to least disturb the dirt that could be settled in the pan.
Rhino Ramps--I got the big ones (16,000 lbs) because they're wider and it's quick, I just push the vehicle back the little it will move in park to wedge the ramp under the tire at the beginning of the ramp and they almost never move, (yes I grew up in the steel ramp era...)though wedging them may work on steel ramp too.
And while I am here, might just want to mention the information of why it is important to change the filter, from;
WIX Filters - Heavy Duty Transmission Filters - Products Information
Contaminants can enter your transmission fluid system in the manufacturing process. They can also enter the transmission through the vent, or through the dipstick and fill tube during fluid level checking/filling. Most of the time, however, contaminants are the result of normal wear. These contaminants consist of metal chips and flakes from gears and bushings and fine fibrous material from clutch facings.
WIX transmission filters protect transmissions against contaminants in the transmission fluid system. Proper filtration helps improve transmission life by minimizing wear and preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. In the event of a part failure, the filter also guards against secondary damage to other parts and thus helps to minimize repair costs.
Supersonic
New member
Just to reiterate on fluid volume, which is going to be important to some for whatever reason one is omitting the fluid level check procedure, could be justified, lazy, or like me indifferent as long as result is close enough, and I like to think I am within 2 tenths of ideal level, and there are probably many more that are fine being a little further out of spec range but close enough not to have impairing symptoms, and from the 2 differing specs mentioned earlier;
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts);
I make the assumption that valve body removal is done while still on the vehicle and is just on more level beyond filter swap, but not being a transmission specialist, I would defer to one more informed.
Doing the math;
4.54 - 4.12 = 0.42 quarts difference (in specs by the professionals giving valve body removal instructions)
0.42 divided by 2 = 0.21,
so my guess is
4.12 + 0.21 = 4.33 quarts fill for pan and filter, approximately.
4.33 quarts to fill be within tolerance at 0.21 quarts either way.
I think that is sensible, also given how much fluid is in the valve body and what how long it is given to drip in either case.
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts);
I make the assumption that valve body removal is done while still on the vehicle and is just on more level beyond filter swap, but not being a transmission specialist, I would defer to one more informed.
Doing the math;
4.54 - 4.12 = 0.42 quarts difference (in specs by the professionals giving valve body removal instructions)
0.42 divided by 2 = 0.21,
so my guess is
4.12 + 0.21 = 4.33 quarts fill for pan and filter, approximately.
4.33 quarts to fill be within tolerance at 0.21 quarts either way.
I think that is sensible, also given how much fluid is in the valve body and what how long it is given to drip in either case.
